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Machiner 55

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Everything posted by Machiner 55

  1. Chris, I believe our Technical Advisor also lives in or around Georgetown, TX. His name is Barney Eaton He may be able to help with finding you a new cover for the ALDL connector. John F.
  2. Thank YOU for posting the resolution to the problem. John F.
  3. When installing rubber/plastic parts on/over /through other rubber/plastic/ metal parts, I use soapy (dishsoap) water. It helps lubricate the parts so that they slide against each other easily. When the water evaporates the parts don't move from their set position. Using some type of petroleum product works great but stays slippery all the time and allows the parts to come undone sometime down the road whereas the parts put together with the soapy water will not. You can use spit but I often times can't generate enough to do the job. Johh F.
  4. Jon, Just thought you'd like to see the wheels on my Driftwood. John F.
  5. Kevin, I currently own three Reattas. I had a fourth but, it sadly left this world but not before donating parts so others might live. Anyway... I would surly have more Reattas lounging about but due to my lack of disposable income, there are but the three. (plus my GMC pickup) My wife (another factor) keeps suggesting I get something a little more "of this decade" for her to drive. I told her that she could buy anything she wanted to upon my demise as she would be flush with cash and would need something to help keep from feeling the great loss she'd just experienced. On another note... We are soon to be official Home-Owners. Mortgage paid off three years early. (Yeah!!!) This may allow additions to the herd. Or it may lead to "disagreements" on whether we should take on an auto loan for a car not of the vintage I am accustomed to. We'll shall see, what we shall see. John F.
  6. Harry, The rear brake calipers are "self bleeding". Make sure the res.is full of fluid, have someone step on the brake pedal then crack open one of the rear bleeder screws. The pump starts running and stays running as long as the pedal is pushed down. Close the bleeder screw when fluid comes out clear. Be sure the res. doesn't run dry in the process or you'll have to start over. Move to the other side and repeat. If you don't have a helper, you can get a 2X4, a stick, a metal rod, someones wooden leg or some other thing to place between the brake pedal and the drivers seat. Power the seat forward just far enough to get the pump to start running then go back and open the bleeder. I think the right rear should be done first as it is the one farthest away from the pump. Don't know if this is necessary or just voodoo mechanics but it can't hurt anything. Good Luck. John F.
  7. Just ran across this today while looking for something else. Just click this link. The post is twelve years old. John F.
  8. Greg, Thanks for your comments, insights and your humor. Don't become a stranger here. John F.
  9. There otta be a law stating that there shall be no posting of cars for sale without a minimum of six (6) photos in the listing. It's good to see you guys having some fun trying to divine what the poster really means but, I don't roll like dat. The penalty for a first (and last) time offense would be the loping off of... well... you know. Just my 2 cents. John F.
  10. Padgett, Good news / bad news. Yes, I have the #'s & prices I paid about three years ago. / Being that it's been nearly three years ago, I would have to dig into the way-back machine to find them. I won't have time to do so until Wed. or Thurs. at the earliest. I used a Mom & Pop parts shop here in town to get them. They have a guy named Dan that can find all sorts of obscure items. Dan is the go-to guy for such things. Here's a clip from their web site... Lincolnway Auto Supply, Valparaiso, IN. have assembled a team of highly experienced experts to provide our customers with the best possible service. Here, we introduce our team. Dan Allen: Dan is vastly experienced in the auto parts industry, with more than 40 years experience in this area, and is an expert in tracking down those difficult to find parts. Dan is the manager of the Lincolnway Auto Supply Valparaiso, IN store. They have to sometimes order certain items but that usually only takes a day. I'm guessing they could take an order from you and ship them down to Orlando. Or, I could (buy) pick them up and mail them down your way. and you reimburse me. Let me know what you decide. As far as replacing the plugs at the rear without pulling the engine... you would be working outside the envelope and probably have to come up with a course of action of you own design.. Good Luck. John F.
  11. Click, I didn't know there was an issue with the spring coming free of the tensioner lever but, that's a "right fine" solution to the issue. Looking forward to the "mounted" photo. John F.
  12. I've completed the emissions work and passed the test. (Whoo-Hoo!) Now I'm performing a complete AC system job. As I'm working around in the engine compartment I'm removing all the crumbly and brittle wire loom wrap from the wiring harness. It is strange in the way that it got to this condition. (See attached photos) It appears that every place that the sun would shine on the wrapping, is deteriorated and brittle. The underside of the wrap is pretty much still resilient as is the wrapping that is behind or under some other component in the engine compartment. There is evidence of dripping or run marks on the shock towers which leads me to believe that some chemical was used to clean the engine and compartment. What say you? By the way, I'm in the process of ripping all of the crumbly wrap from the wires and putting on new. This is making the AC job take twice as long. If you haven't guessed by now, this work is being done on the '90 (WTF) Driftwood. John F. PS., I've included some bonus photos. One shows the missing bolt on the front engine mount. Nice. The other two show the remnants of some type of "Goo" that was jammed inside the ICM connector and of it's having dripped onto the lower radiator hose. Really Nice!
  13. Looked to be the original. Although there was evidence of weld work done at the exit end of the Cat. John F.
  14. Test Results. I've tried three times to upload this and other files and keep getting messages that there's trouble uploading the files (photos or scans) I'm done for the evening. This is much more aggravating than it should be. Yeah!!!! it worked!!!
  15. Having trouble uploading photos. John F. Tah-Da! New Walker Universal Converter Installed (upside-down I think)
  16. My '90 (WTF) Driftwood was due for an emissions check. Last week, I ran it through with my fingers crossed. It was the first test since I bought it from that guy from Pittsburgh who no longer posts here. He purchased the car from someone in North Carolina where the car spent most of it's adult life. Not surprisingly, it failed. I spent two days covering all things related to excessive hydrocarbon emissions. Replaced all vacuum tubes and hoses. Found a partially missing gasket under the four port vacuum manifold atop the throttle body. Pulled all the plugs and regaped to .060" due to my changing the Magnavox coil set to the Delco set ala Padgett. I kept the year old spark plugs but installed a new O2 sensor just in case. I did find the the #2 plug looked as though it wasn't firing properly. I found the contact area inside the boot had some kind of "fuzziness" inside. I guess from not making good contact with the head of the plug. must have gotten some Dielectric grease up in there where it "cooked". Cleaned and made sure the was a "click" when I snapped the boot back in place. Anyway... There were several other things I did that don't come to mind right now. (Checked PCV valve and rubber connections. They were only a year old but checked anyway.) Then, I took the car back to be tested and it failed again with no improvement. The numbers should have moved in a positive direction but didn't at all. Convinced that there wasn't much of anything more to be done with the engine, I turned my attention to the Catalytic Converter. I thought that the matrix may be coated with an oil film or that some additive or even an attempt made to use leaded fuel, I constructed a back pressure tester that screws into the O2 port. The FSM says that at 2500 RPM the back pressure should be no higher than 1.5 PSI. I found that it barely measured 1PSI at that RPM and had to go almost to WOT to get it over 5 PSI. So the cat's not plugged but what's wrong with it. Only one way to find out. Got the Sawzall out and cut the cat from the exhaust pipe at both ends. Please see the attached photos below to see the fruit of my labor. Had to submit more photos in a following post due to some sort of problem uploading files. So the following text should go with the next post. Damn frustrating's what it is. Imagine that huh. Who the Phock does something like this?! Every repair or attempt to "fix" something on this car was done in some hafast billybob manner. I've been tempted on many occasion to start a thread titled "WTF" so that I could vent and give others a venue to post things they've found that makes the first thing that comes to mind is WTF!? But... I'm thinking I'd be banned from the Forum and I don't want to risk that. But... if there is a monitor that reads this and gives me a big thumbs up, well... it could get down right interesting around here. Anyway... I installed a $57 dollar (plus $24 bux in a pipe adapter and clamps) Walker Universal Catalytic Converter and went back to the the testing site. As you can see by the latest test results, the emissions are at or near new car levels. How about that. (Couldn't post the scan of the test results due to upload failures. Will try again tomorrow. John F.
  17. Click, The OEM style tensioner could still be had as of three years ago from a local (to me) privately owned auto parts store here in Valparaiso,IN. If you try to get one from the national chains you'll probably end up with the new style tensioner. If you have access to a 'Mom & Pop" Auto parts store you should start there. Take the original one with you so they can see the difference. If you have no luck there, let me know. I could try my local store to see if the OEM tensioner can still be had here. John F.
  18. It seems that after I made this post he kind of dropped off the radar. Prior to that he was pretty active posting, working on his cars and flying his airplane. I was surprised when he mentioned the he was 70 years old. Seemed that he was really enjoying his retirement. It's a shame it ended so soon. Let that be a lesson to all. Get your licks in now. You never know when it's your time. Rest in peace William. John F.
  19. Dave, I'd thought about arranging a meeting with you along your journey southward but it's not going to be doable. Hope You have a great and safe trip. John F.
  20. Dave, What day will you be passing through the "Chicagoland" area? John F.
  21. This arrived in my email inbox yesterday.... Order Date: 04/16/2016 - 06:51:23 PM (Order placed after business hours on Saturday. I think it's safe to assume that nothing was done on Sunday) Location Date Local Time Activity Greensboro, NC, United States 04/20/2016 2:00 A.M. Departure Scan Greensboro, NC, United States 04/19/2016 9:58 P.M. Arrival Scan Winston Salem, NC, United States 04/19/2016 9:14 P.M. Departure Scan 04/19/2016 7:21 P.M. Origin Scan United States ............................. 04/19/2016 9:45 A.M. Order Processed: Ready for UPS Shipment Category: Package Shipped/Billed On: 04/19/2016 Weight: 7.80 lbs Scheduled Delivery: Thursday, 04/21/2016, By End of Day I don't think five days is excessive for an order to arrive. This is excessive and annoying...... I recently placed an order on Amazon. Two identical items were ordered at the same time on a Thursday during normal business hours. The order was split. I received one of them the following Wednesday. The "Track your Shipment" scale showed that scheduled delivery for the second item was to arrive Friday the 15th. I got the other, the following Saturday.(16th) So, in this example anyway, GMPartsDirect beat Amazon's delivery time by a week. So ... Take that Bozo er, I mean, Bezos. It appears that GMPD has turned over a new leaf. It appears also that their online catalog has been given a facelift and runs more efficiently. Regards, John F.
  22. After it being on the batt. tender all night and it doesn't start (just clicks correct?) have you checked the battery voltage with the tender removed? If so, what is the reading. Hopefully you are using a digital multi-meter. John F.
  23. All I can do is show you the portion of the order that has the shipping cost included. Subtotal: $234.30 Shipping (Standard Shipping (Will Ship UPS Ground or UPS SurePost)): $15.80 Total: $250.10 Company Information GMPartsDirect.com, 3251 Healy Dr. Winston Salem, North Carolina, 27103 USA 336-760-7046 customerservice@gmpartsdirect.com
  24. Have heard of others (NOT Reattas) wrapping a chain around the bumper where it bolts to the absorber (Bumper padded of course) the other end of the chain around a solid tree (Shade tree of shade tree Mechanic fame) then backing up to put tension on the bumper . Enough so that the absorber is uncompressed enough to align the bumper. Never did this myself nor have I seen it done. The small bottle jack may be the way to go. I don't know if you can find one that'll fit in the space allowed but you'll have more control that way. John F.
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