Machiner 55

Padgett, wish I'd seen something like this B-4 I bought that hand held flex scope from HF for about 70 bux. There's even one similar to this one that has a dual use USB plug that connects to a smart phone as well as a desktop/laptop. 2 megapixel is a bit low. I'd like to see one with a bit more rez. John F.

5K PLUS shipping!? Hokey smoke Bullwinkle!!! John F.

Yah but... Are you OK? Did the air bag deploy as it should? Wish you well. John F.

According to the summer issue of "Reatta Road", Barney is offering "Rebuilt power antenna W/steel cord <$60 (includes return shipping)" John F.

1.) Happy Birthday! 2.) Congratulations on your reaching retirement. I hope it is a long and enjoyable one for you. 3.) If you find that it's not the lock cylinder, then my guess would be that the rack-actuator is broken. (that's just a guess, based on experience but still, just a guess). Woe be unto you if it is because the steering column needs to be partially disassembled to get at it. John F.

Dave, I too checked to see how much it would cost but I chose the # to buy to be 2. So 2@ $8.80=$17.60 Plus 11.00 for S&H= $28.60. Just shy of 30 bux. A lot to spend on the wrong part. I'm sure I can send them back but of course I'd have to pay $11.00 to return them. Plus, I believe Car id charges a 15% restocking fee that would only be about $2.64, So, for a grand total of $13.64 we can see it they are the correct ones. Why order two, you ask? Well... if on the off chance they send the ones we can use, I wouldn't have to pay another $11.00 for the shipping of another one to make the set of two needed. I agree on your take of the two part system mentioned. Those might work if the center hole was bigger than the hole required for the bolt. That way a section of rubber tubing with an ID that matches the bolt diameter and an OD that matches the ID of the two grommets could be bonded together with superglue. (yes, superglue is a pretty good bonding agent for rubber parts.) In this case one grommet could be glued to the rubber tube then inserted into the sway bar. then the other grommet could be slipped onto the rubber tube as the glue was dabbed on, Squeeze the two grommets on either side of the hole in the sway bar together over the tube and, in the time required to glue you thumb and for-finger to the grommets you will have a solid and strong bushing (sans finger and thumb) installed on the sway bar. (Hope this makes sense) John F.

Following the link provided I found what looks like what we need for the rear sway bars on our cars. Even though the page says it is for the Front Strut Rod Bushing -1990 Buick Reatta, I connected with Amanda through the Live Chat function on their site anyway. A transcript of that chat follows: Here is the transcript you requested: System[5:50 AM] Hello John! You are now being connected to CARiD LiveChat. Please wait while we connect you to a Product Specialist. System[5:50 AM] Thank you for waiting. You are now chatting with Amanda. Amanda Lisov 886[5:50 AM] Hello, John, how may I assist you today? John[5:50 AM] Hello Amanda, John[5:51 AM] I'm wanting to get some dimensions for the Premium Front Strut Rod bushing Item # 64619071 1990-buick-reatta-suspension-part. Amanda Lisov 886[5:52 AM] If you have about 5 minutes, I will put you on hold and look into this. John[5:52 AM] I do. Amanda Lisov 886[5:54 AM] Dimensions (HxLxW) 3.292"x 4.88"x3.836" http://carid.com/cart.php?rst_cart=0D1E8DEEB97CA8C347C7A997757A06A1 John[5:56 AM] Well that was quick! Thank you for your rapid response to my query. That's all I need for now. Thank you very much! Amanda Lisov 886[5:56 AM] You are very welcome! Amanda Lisov 886[5:56 AM] Have a great day! John[5:57 AM] You too. Bye. Amanda Lisov 886[5:57 AM] Thank you! Goodbye! With pen and paper, I then drew a box with those dimensions. I thought, hey that's WAY too big. that can't be right. So I got my digital readout calipers set them to metric and plugged on the same numbers... WAY too small. So I got on the Live Chat thing again and fortunately, I was reconnected with Amanda. Here is how that chat went: Here is the transcript you requested: System[6:16 AM] Hello John F.! You are now being connected to CARiD LiveChat. Please wait while we connect you to a Product Specialist. System[6:16 AM] Thank you for waiting. You are now chatting with Amanda. Amanda Lisov 886[6:16 AM] Hello, John F., how may I assist you today? John F.[6:17 AM] Hello Amanda, I just "spoke" with you a few minutes ago. I requested dimensions for the Premium Front Strut Rod bushing Item # 64619071 1990-buick-reatta-suspension-part. You sent the following: John F.[6:18 AM] Dimensions (HxLxW): 3.292"x 4.88"x3.836" http://carid.com/cart.php?rst_cart=0D1E8DEEB97CA8C347C7A997757A06A1. John F.[6:19 AM] These dimensions don't make sense to me . it would be a rather large bushing and I don;t think that it would be that large. Amanda Lisov 886[6:19 AM] Yes, that's correct Amanda Lisov 886[6:19 AM] The dimensions we found from the manufacturer Amanda Lisov 886[6:20 AM] As per manufacturer, it will fit 1990 Buick Reatta John F.[6:23 AM] OK then, these are not what I'm looking for. The ones I'm looking for would have an overall dimension of 1 1/8"H x 1 3/16"W x 1 1/4". Amanda Lisov 886[6:24 AM] but for 1990 Buick Reatta? John F.[6:25 AM] Yes for a 1990 Buick Reatta. They look exactly like the one in the photo shown on your web page but of the dimensions I sent you. Amanda Lisov 886[6:26 AM] The pictures are just for reference. Please let me check if we have any that you need John F.[6:27 AM] OK, but I need to tell you that the ones I'm looking for are for the rear sway bar. They attach to the ends of the bar and are bolted to the lugs on the rear struts. Amanda Lisov 886[6:29 AM] That is the issue, as the ones you asked are for front Amanda Lisov 886[6:29 AM] let me check the exact ones for rear Amanda Lisov 886[6:31 AM] Unfortunately, all we have are 3.488"x 4.695"x3.595" Amanda Lisov 886[6:31 AM] You can check eBay or Amazon also. Maybe they have it available John F.[6:32 AM] I understand but, there is nothing that looks like that on the front end of any Reatta of any of the four model years that they were produced. I own four of them and do all of my own work so I can tell you that those pictured on your site do not belong on the Reatta. John F.[6:33 AM] Thank you for the suggestion but I've exhausted those sources. Amanda Lisov 886[6:33 AM] I understand, but the pictures are for reference only. And the dimensions are different John F.[6:34 AM] OK, thanks for helping me today Amanda. I appreciate it. John F.[6:34 AM] Have a great day... bye. Amanda Lisov 886[6:34 AM] My pleasure! Amanda Lisov 886[6:34 AM] You do the same! Goodbye! And there you have it. I didn't pursue the matter any further. It sure looks like the part we need but... If someone wants to buy the part and see what shows up in the mail, then we'd know for sure. The price of $8.80 seems awful cheap for a bushing the size quoted to me by Amanda but about right for a bushing the size we need. John F.

Steve, This is the link to the thread over at the ROJ that takes you the first post on page 1 of 6. Enjoy. John F.

It looks to me like three people posted. That's something. Better than nothing. Also... Not many people here have tried what you are attempting to do so you aren't going to receive a lot of comments on the subject. John F.

I have THIS. The head will not fit the openings in the vent unless you remove the vent. Then you don't need a remote camera to see into the opening. Good idea though. The vacuum driven actuator is spring loaded and I don' know if it holds the door normally open or normally closed. The vacuum pulls against the spring inside the vacuum chamber and the spring pushes the linkage back once the vacuum is relieved. As I mentioned in an earlier post, one way to check to see if the arm is broken is to place a dowel with a diameter smaller than the holes in the vent into the vent until it contacts the door and see if you can push against it. If the door swings on it's hinge freely, then the arm is broken. If one were to attach a small but strong magnet to the end of the dowel so the dowel would stick to the steel door, you could determine in which position the door needs to be in to make the air flow to the defroster vents or the panel vents. John F.

I posted the link just to let folks know there's another good product out there in case they aren't able to get the other. It's kinda like PB Blaster and Kroil. Both are good stuff. John F.

Here is another product that I'm familiar with that works pretty good for this type of work Boeshield. John F.

Once is too many times if you ask me. There seems to be a small rash of breakage of the arms on our cars so I guess the answer to your question is that they break after about 23-25 years of operation. It may be that not all cars are affected. It could be the way they were originally installed. There's an adjustable link between the arm and actuator and it could be that some were set in such a way that the arm/linkage were put in a bind in one of the two end positions of its travel. So... over time, some may start breaking while all others will outlast us. Just my guess here. John F.

Harry is right but if you find that the Black line from the engine compartment is OK and it is connected to the 3 port check valve as it should be, check the Programmer Vac. Manifold shown in the photo in post #4. The color of the vacuum line that controls the actuator in question is BLUE. AFAIK, if the blue line is detached at either end, has a cut in it or is kinked enough to block the flow, air will come out of the defroster and floor vents but not the dash vents. If the blue line is OK and you have vacuum to the actuator itself and the actuator is OK, then the actuator arm that moves the diverter door is broken. If that is the case, let God have mercy on you 'cause Oh Woe is unto you. John F.

Now that's the way to post a car for sale! Great job! It's just too bad I can't buy it but thanks for posting it as you did. I'm sure someone here will take it off your hands. Good Luck. John F.

Woody, Good to hear from you again. Glad to know you are cancer free. That's amazing. God bless you! I don't know your wife but I think I can safely say that this is probably the one time where she is wrong. At age 70, I think any man who has worked for a living has put in enough time for "The Man" (even if you are self employed). I'm 60 right now and I'm thinking I'll pull the plug on work at 62. Government says 66 and two months. Wife went out at 62. I think I'll do as my wife did. P*ss on the Gubment. . John F.

Don't want to argue (sure looks that way though) but I think this is where one gets the idea of manually adjusting the IAC. (see figure C2-9 below) I couldn't find the text where it says to do this but I know I've read it in the FSM. Should I run across it, I"ll edit this post to include it. It was my understanding that this was done to insure the pintle was fully retracted to prevent the mechanism from being damaged during installation. I am not suggesting anyone do this. I'm just pointing out that this is in fact something in the FSM and no one can be faulted for following it. I have, in the past, done this but I can't tell you if it is a good thing or a bad thing to do. I've had IAC's that retracted when pushed upon as shown figure C2-9 and others that have not. What that tells me... I don't know. It was years ago and I don't remember the results exactly except that I figured that the ones that would not retract were defective. Although they would retract when connected to the harness and the override function used. (Image pulled from 1990 FSM)

All righty then. Post #30 answers my query a bit better the reply in post #27. Thank you. John F.

So, what are you saying here. That these WABCO units are a direct replacement / fit for our Reattas? You've purchased one and tested it out and it works flawlessly? What... what's that son? Speak up I say. I'm deaf in one eye and can't hear out the other! John F.

Well... there you go. I should have directed you to start reading the first three pages of posts from that thread. The checking of the vacuum components prior to ripping into the dash can prevent a huge headache. Please tell me though, did you by chance try the stick in the vent method to determine whether the door was attached or not? John F.

I'm glad you are tackling the core. I pulled one once but it was done while disassembling my '88 so I didn't have to be careful about getting it out so long as the core wasn't damaged. The engine was out and still, I remember thinking that I hope I never have to pull one from a working vehicle. I didn't want to say this earlier as I didn't want to discourage you in your attempt. Good luck and keep us apprised of your progress. Don't forget... we all like pictures. John F.

I made this last night. Right now I can only test at what pressures the pressure switch kicks the pump on and off. With this hooked up and the key in the ON position, the pump cycles continually. Initially the pump starts running at zero PSI and tops out at somewhere between 2500 and 2800 psi. when it shuts off. It takes several seconds for the pressure to bleed down to 2000psi. then the pump kicks back on and repeats the cycle. It didn't occur to me last night to watch the indicator lamps on the dash to determine at what pressure the lamps cycle on and off. Thanks for the tip Padgett. To conduct the trouble shooting methods outlined in the FSM while the Accumulator is in place, I need to fabricate an adapter to connect the gauge to the pump body instead of the Accumulator port. In the '88 FSM it shows a connection using a banjo bolt fitting to connect. I don't know about the '89 (**) but the '90's don't use that connection. It is a tapered nut holding a steel tube in place. Hmmm... Back to the drawing board. (* I looked at my '89 and it too has the steel tubing as opposed to the rubber line with the banjo bolts at either end. I'm assuming that only the '88 MY had the flexible rubber line instead of the steel tubing.*) For whatever reason, the photos posted in revers order of their original selection. You can start at the bottom of the pics and work your way up. I think they will make more sense that way. John F.

Chris, Another way to skin a cat. Good job and thanks for sharing. John F.

OK... I found the pages over at the ROJ pertinent to the matter at hand. The thread is 6 pages long with the first three being mostly of diagnostics and troubleshooting the programmer and vacuum system to find out why the door isn't operating as it should. If you use the "stick in the vent method" you can quickly determine if it truly is the broken actuator arm or a HVAC programmer/vacuum issue. So... Starting on page four of six, you get into the meat of the problem and the two methods of attack to get at the root cause and fix it.

Ronnie. You're welcome. Chris. You can tell if the arm, shown in the photo above, is broken by inserting a dowel rod or other such thing into the center dash vent opening and pushing on the door (rust colored thing). I believe that it is in the normally closed position so, if you push on it, you would feel some resistance as it is pushed open. When you pull the dowel back, the door will return to the closed position. With the arm broke, you will feel no resistance and the door will just swing on it's hinges back and forth like it's not connected to anything (which it isn't). As mentioned above, you can pull the dash but, I can attest to the fact that the arm can be replaced working from under the dash. It's a toss-up as to which way is the least frustrating but there's plenty written about how to go about it on the ROJ site. Too late (tired) to provide a link tonight but I'll try to post one tomorrow. If you look for it yourself, look for a really long thread with a post started by "Merlin". If you want to try some rocket science engineering, you could put a magnet on the end of the dowel and push and pull on it to direct the air flow. Brush paint the rod some spiffy color then with a magic marker make some reference marks on it to make it look professional like. John F.