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BRB62

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About BRB62

  • Birthday 07/25/1966

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  1. This appears to be the WA (Western Australia) Premier John "Gone-a Million Jack" Scaddan's visit to Esperance in March 1915. The two Government owned Talbot's; registered P207 and the newer P719 were transported by train to Norseman and driven down to Esperance in a push to get approval for a railway line to the port town from the goldfields that never eventuated. The cars look like they must have been loaded onto a ship for their return to Perth (first photo). Both of these cars were used as official vehicles until at least 1919. A fantastic series of photos.
  2. The front door rubbers and seals are the same as Chevrolet. The Electra has taller glass at the rear of the front doors on the 2-door models but otherwise they are the same. Not sure on the 4-door models but the bottom half is all standard GM with different skins. The Electra also has longer rear doors so they are different (same design). I purchased the correct window fuzzies with the stainless top from Ecklers (Chevrolet) and made new staples to fit. I just tried to find them again but a quick search failed, but anyone supplying CORRECT Chevrolet seals should be the right ones. As the rear doors are longer, try using the front ones? LeSabre & Invicta share even more parts with Chevrolet but you will be surprised how much is the same, and easier to locate as there are more Chevrolet suppliers than there is for Buick. Just don't tell them it is not going on a Chevrolet!
  3. Yes, you will find that VERY few parts interchange between the master and standard models. They look the same but are in a smaller scale. FYI the starter, generator/distributor, fuel pump, radiator surround (chrome part), top radiator tank (standard has a spacer fitted to suit the narrower core), gauges (except gas), dash fascia & surround, headlights, tail lights & brackets, park lights & brackets, spare wheel carrier (but not the brackets), door handles and the front seat adjustor frame (I believe) are about the only parts that are the same. I will have missed a few but you get my drift. The entire chassis and drive train are different, plus all sheetmetal parts. Even the steering wheel is bigger, and the levers and centre disc are different. I believe the internal cast bracket for the levers is the same (they break but are available reproduction). Good luck with your car, it looks in great shape.
  4. Your chassis number and engine number both indicate a standard 116" series 29-27 sedan, not a master 121". The data plate on the firewall should back this up as it will have the body style stamped on it. The Fisher body plate will be for a job number 8390 (29-27). If your car was a 121" it would be a 29-47, with a job number 8440. FYI the master engine is quite different to the standard and has a steel water pipe along the top of the head which is not found on the smaller engine.
  5. How about a red Buick covered in red flowers? A bit of a spring storm dropped a load of bottle brush flowers overnight.
  6. A couple of weekends ago we followed the Mustang branch of our local car club to a small country airstrip. Parked up against the runway. This weekend we headed down south (of Western Australia) and got next to an old DC-3 that has been converted into accommodation.
  7. Just spent 6 days travelling down south (of Western Australia) with a couple of Oldsmobile's, a bunch of Ford Model A's, a couple of Ford Falcon's and a Wolseley. Drove 840 miles. It is late spring here so some of the wildflowers are still out but the weather is touchy. Had a storm blow through, you will see be the bottle brush flower drop on the Electra! Only issue I had was it looks like my wiper switch is playing up. I changed the wiper motor but still have a problem so had to use the "wiper in a bottle" (rain-ex).
  8. For some reason this photo reminds me of the SNL skit "More Cowbell".
  9. As I mentioned, I am not a mechanic and am only stating what I remember from a number of years ago. It is just as likely that I have it wrong. My main point is that my car demonstrates the same symptoms, flooding over when first started after a period of not being used. Having driven carburetor cars for a long time, I used to give the accelerator pedal a couple of pumps prior to starting, just habit. I have found with my Electra that I have to be more gentle with this action, or not at all, to prevent the carby from flooding. For this first start after a break I take off the air cleaner, start the car and check that the secondary side is dry (no fuel). If it is wet I stop the engine, give the back of the carby a "tap" to reset whatever it is that has stuck, dry out the excess fuel inside and try again. I only have to do this once and almost never when the car is used more often. It does not happen every time. I also would love to know what it is that I am resetting when I tap the carby. Perhaps it is the float that sticks?
  10. Paint would usually be the same as the darker shade (upper body) with the original two-tone paint schemes. The main body colour being a lighter shade. The center hubs were either black or the same colour as the felloe, as per the chart above.
  11. Early Buick spokes were almost exclusively painted. By the mid twenties "natural" spokes became an option and by at least 1929 all spokes were natural finish. Someone else might have more knowledge as to the exact year that this change occurred. What year are you asking about?
  12. I have a similar issue with the 4GC in my Electra. Apparently what happens is that the secondary needle catches on a slight notch that has worn over the years. What I found was that if the car sits for too long the fuel dries up/drains from the carby and I tend to pump the accelerator more to get fuel up for the car to start. This sets the secondaries into the "sticking" position and the carby gets full fuel, flooding and bogging the engine down. The first (many) times this happened I had to remove and de-carbon the spark plugs each time. The car does the same as you describe, it starts and seems fine but the idle gets gets rougher and rougher very quickly and fuel pumps out of every part of the carby if I don't stop it in time. Not pretty. I have had the carby looked at professionally but they were unable to entirely remove the notch. I am now very careful when pumping the accelerator on startup and I have a large screwdriver handy to tap the area where the secondary needle sits to dislodge it if it gets stuck. This works. I find if the secondaries open in normal highway driving I on't have a problem but definitely is a lot worse when the car sits for a while. It is possible that you may have a similar issue with a sticky needle & seat? I am not a mechanic so my technical terms may be astray but this is the information given to me by the person who rebuilt it.
  13. Hey Ken, I assume this is for Greg's car? As mentioned above, ALL glass on his Wildcat are the same as Chevrolet and Pontiac coupes. The windscreen is the same for all models of coupe & convertible, but they are a couple of inches shorter than the sedan/wagon screen. My Electra has a 1961/62 Chevrolet screen in it, full tint and band. They are generally "off the shelf" even here in Perth. Don't ask for a Buick one! The Electra side glass is different to your car but the windscreen and vent windows are the same. All door rubber and hardware is the same for all models. Rick
  14. For my 62 Electra, I bent out the metal tabs to remove the plastic pieces. These went to a chrome plater that could plate plastic (most do this). The parts are only plated on the face and are actually clear when the old plating is removed. I then carefully scratched off the plating from the raised letters with a flat blade taking care not to actually scratch the plastic. It isn't that hard and worked great. I also replaced the round lower dash lenses. I used reproduction lenses from the 1927-28 Chevrolet park lamps. They were slightly bigger but had the correct thickness and curve. I had to hand grind them a little around the edges t make them fit snug. I didn't get home from work today until after dark and for some reason my interior lights are not working but the attached photos should show how they ended up. Rick
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