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Lockhouse

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Posts posted by Lockhouse

  1. Hi from the UK,

     

    I'm going to view a 1956 Series 62 Convertible this weekend. I've generally owned classic Buicks and this might be my first Caddy.

     

    I'm OK looking at old cars generally but are there any Caddy specific issues that I should be aware of?

     

    The car is mostly original and appears on the surface to be complete and in good condition.

     

    Many thanks.

     

     

     

  2. Hi,

    I just want to make sure that my 1949 Buick Super should have a vented gas filler cap?

    She runs for about half an hour then the gas to the carb dries up. Open the gas tank and she's fine again for another half an hour....I suspect the vent may be blocked or a non-vented cap has been fitted and the vacuum is building up in the tank until the fuel pump can no longer draw against it. Does that make sense? Everything else in the fuel line has been replaced and appears OK.

    Thanks,

    Andy

  3. Well, I removed the starter switch, blew on it a few times, put it back and away she goes like nothing had happened, started first time. I'm spitting feathers.

    If I wanted to bypass the carb switch for starting, is it just a matter of fitting a starter switch under the dash and connecting the two starter switch wires from the carb to it? Will that affect the carb in any way?

    Thanks,

    Andy

  4. All of a sudden my '49 Super refuses to start.

    I have a good battery, the fuel pump is running and I have fuel, I put my foot on the accelerator and nothing at all happens. She has been running like clockwork recently.

    I noticed this a couple of times last week and the next time I put my foot on the throttle she started. Today, she turned over and fired OK, but I took my foot off the throttle before she was warm, she stalled (normal) and then I put my foot back on the throttle and nothing at all.

    Does this sound like a vacuum switch failure?

    Anything else I can easily check?

    Big wedding on Friday....

    Thanks

  5. OK, I've lost the indicators and brake lights on my 52 Super.

    I changed the fuse and this didn't fix it, changed the flasher unit and this didn't either. I remover the inspection plate from under the hood and direct wired across the fuse terminals both front and back, still no luck.

    Any ideas what else I can check before I call an auto-electrician?

    Thanks,

    Andy

  6. Anyway, I went back and reinstalled the vacuum switch. It was quite fiddly as I couldn't get the ball to position correctly but managed it eventually.

    So now I have a working car with no sign of the starting fault and am now waiting to see if the problem re-occurs.

    One thing though, now I've cleaned and reassembled the vacuum switch, the engine seems to be running a little faster on tickover. Is this a normal consequence of replacing\rebuilding the switch?

    Cheers,

    Andy

  7. Typically I couldn't reproduce the fault. I took the top off the new relay and it was just that - new. I didn't think that would be the problem as it made a huge difference to the engine turning over when I first fitted it.

    Mike - I took off the switch and it's dry, dirty and sticking to some extent inside. I'm not sure if that was the cause of the problem, but it definitely does need a good clean and lubricate. I am not back at the car until next weekend now so I will clean it this week, refit it next weekend and see what heppens.

    Thanks to all for your help.

  8. My ignition problem came back!!!

    She's been OK for two weeks but today the starter came on and wouldn't disengage again! This was after fitting the NOS starter relay!

    I managed to free it by shorting the relay and that unstuck it.

    This has to be the solenoid now, surely?

  9. Hi,

    I'm after a chrome trunk handle for my '49 Sedan. Length of the steel shaft including thread should be around 70-72mm (I understand they can vary). Nothing too pitted - everyday runner standard would be fine - does not need to be rechromed\concours. Would ideally like something with correct keys.

    Thanks,

    Andy

  10. Good afternoon Gentlemen!

    Well, I went over and did some work on the car today and made some progress.

    The carb would blow petrol out of the air vent hole just with the fuel pump running. I tapped it for about 30 seconds with a hammer and it definitely improved some - the flow rate of the petrol slowed down. A definite hat-tip for that suggestion.

    I then took the top off the carb. I couldn't see anything immediately wrong with either the float or anything else so I temporarily reassembled it.

    I then re-connected everything else and turned the fuel pump on - the carb didn't leak, so obviously taking the top off, moving the floats etc had maybe gone some way to fixing the problem. However I couldn't fire the engine up because petrol was dripping from the fuel filter (original glass bulb type). I took off the fuel filter and someone had fitted the wrong gasket at some stage or it had perished and was not fitting properly, all the messing round with the carb had unseated it and I couldn't get it back without it leaking onto the manifold, so best not to start it up. I am going to try and get a replacement.

    The second thing I noticed is that the automatic choke stove pipe that connected to the manifold was not in fact connected to the manifold, it had snapped off. This would also explain some of our cold starting issues. Does anyone know, it appears just to be a push fit onto the manifold stud - is that right?

    So the plan is, I order a carb rebuild kit, a choke stove pipe replacement and a fuel filter gasket and try again when it all arrives. Hopefully that has fixed the carb problem but if not I'll need to take it to a local specialist with the kit and have it rebuilt. I may do that anyway as I obviously have a problem there that I've fixed temporarily and I don't want petrol dripping onto the manifold, especially if the wife is driving - she drives this one more than I do!

    All the best,

    Andy

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