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About truckdog62563

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  • Birthday 07/17/1948

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  1. John - If your heart isn't in it to deal with the issues that go with the bigger model, you're at the correct point to stop and change directions. Nothing worse than jumping in, tearing everything apart, then having to sell a stalled project. You are absolutely correct that it's easier to restore and drive a half ton. Parts vendors are much easier to find, NOS and reproduction parts plentiful. While some of us are drawn to the bigger models despite (or BECAUSE of) the challenges they present, I readily admit that's me, we're in the minority. I've carried it even further by focusing on t
  2. John - Based on the pictures, and based on old catalog research I've done for guys several times, those are widowmakers. From what I've found in the old catalogs, there were only two 17" truck wheels made back then having the 8 lug x 6.5" bolt pattern. One is the widow maker Firestone "RH-5°" two piece used by Ford, the other a three piece Kelsey Hayes "AR" wheel used by Chevy. I'll link in some pictures I took of one of my widow makers to allow you to compare. The surest way for you to see this for yourself is to look at the concave side of a wheel. There will be a raised band like area that
  3. John - Now if I may I'll take you in a different direction. Your '48 F-3 has a breed "problem", I'll call it, that at some point you'll need to address. All two wheel drive '48 to '52 F-3s have 17" two part wheels. The technical name for the outer rim design is Firestone RH-5°. The present day working name for them is "widow makers". No reputable tire shop will touch the things today. Replacement options do exist. This subject gets a lot of traffic over on the FTE site I linked you to above. You might join us over there, and you might do a Google search of those terms. You'll find a l
  4. On the '48 to '50s I know only enough to be dangerous when it comes to VINs. Except to say that the "R" is V8, the "Y" is F-3 (heavy 3/4 ton), and the 198311 the individual number. The expert on '48 to '50 VINs is member "mtflat" over on the Ford Truck Enthusiast's site. Here's a LONG thread that will tell you all there is to know I think. Stu http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/423340-1948-1960-1949-1950-vin-cut-off.html
  5. Pretty sure they were red from 48 to 51. Here's a good link. It's the Vanpelt site. Stu Flathead Specifications: 1949-53 V8
  6. The color of '51 truck 8BA engines was red. The '51 car engines were bronze. The trucks in '52 and '53 were green. Chuck Mantiglia of Chuck's Trucks says the green is '52 Lincoln green. The exact red shade I don't know. Chuck recommends getting paint and paint advise from Bill Hirsch. Stu
  7. The only way they are one piece is if they are the 17.5" tubeless variety. If they are an even 17" you're kidding yourself thinking they are one piece. They'll look like they are from the face because, like you said, there is no lock ring. But looking at the concave side you'll see a raised band like are that is the joint where the halves connect. If they are 17s please let the air out before messing with them. Stu
  8. I'd suggest you watch eBay for a Chassis Parts and Accessories Catalog. This provides schematic drawings of all component areas, and lists parts with the model they fit. There are also reprint versions that can be purchased new that cover the 1948 to 1956 model years. Most of the common parts houses have these. I bought my set from Sacramento Vintage Ford Truck. I have both an old manual and the reproduction set, and would warn that the reprint version lists some newer replacement parts instead of old original part numbers which can be confusing if you don't know to watch for it. Second
  9. Well heck. Please ignore my above wrong comments. I might have looked better at the enlarged picture, huh? Those are demountable rims. There were dozens of styles made by Firestone, Kelsey, Hayes, Jaxon, and several others. I think Coker and Universal sell new ones, but doubt you want them. Probably any make would cover your needs as long as the diameter was correct. Tires and rims both will have to come from another collector's junk pile. Stu
  10. Larry - Back to your original question, I think the place to start is to identify the truck's bolt pattern. Since you say it is a 1.5 ton and has Budd style hubs, that says it should have steel disc wheels. I researched this a while back for another fellow, and IIRC, it turned out that these early Dodge Bros. trucks had a 5 lug x 6 7/8" bolt pattern. Same as a Ford Model AA. If that's correct, you'd be able to widen your search parameters. You measure the bolt circle by putting your tape on the far edge of one stud, then jumping the second stud in the circle, you measure to the middle o
  11. By now you should have gotten an email from my son regarding a Glasspar G2 that was in a shed near where he lived in Portland, OR. Judging by the pictures he shared with me at the time it had been sitting there undisturbed for many years. So hopefully it still sits there. I hope the site map that he provided allows you to track the car down. Stu McMillan
  12. Have you been to the Power Wagon Advertiser site? It's good. I also subscribe to the magazine and have seen several stories of WC53 restorations there. I'd think you could connect with other owners that would share digital pics of their interiors. Stu Welcome to Power Wagon Advertiser
  13. Here they are. Hope they post here like on other sites. Stu
  14. I have a special interest in old car and truck wheels, but admit that yours are much older than I normally get involved with. So if what I have to say isn't helpful, I'll butt out. But if it helps, here's what I found. My 1927 National Wheel and Rim Association catalog says that 1917/1918 Dodge Brothers cars, all models, used Kelsey rim #100, clamp #C-11, and bolt #B-111. But starting in 1918 it says that Dodge equipped its cars with a "special Stanweld rim that came to be known in the trade as the 'Dodge Bros. rim' (which was) standard equipment on Dodge models during 1918, 1919, and 192
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