Roger Zimmermann

I don't know if they are, but the front seat seems to be comfortable! Very nice looking trim!

Promising title! But I have to go back with the time. For about 3 weeks, I took the block of wood back in my one-car garage at home and I continued to shave the wood there. I did it to spare each time 10 miles or half an hour (one way) travel. Even with a restricted space (my everyday car is in), I did some progress at the profile. To avoid noise in the house on Sunday, I began the door sill as I have a cross section drawing of it. The first try was to do the sill in two pieces, but the multiple bending prevented to have correct dimensions. A second try was more or less successful but, the rest of the week I laid flat in bed with a bad cold. When I could resume the work some days ago, I noticed that the second tentative was maybe better than the first one but I destroyed it anyway. All that frustration would have been avoided with a miniature bending machine; alas, I don't have one, so I have to bend the metal with the hammer on my huge vise. Then I did what I should have done first: a precise pattern of the section. Then I decided to do the part in 3 pieces, all soft soldered. The result is on the picture. In front the pattern and, where the coin is, the lower part of the quarter panels. Technically, the sill is ending just aft the door; the rest is 100% part of the rear fender. To avoid a broken line, I continued the lower part up to the wheel opening. As you also can see, this lower part has a cut towards the front. At first, I did not understand the reason of this complexity; but, looking at the section it is evident: during production, the exhaust system is installed on the frame; when completed, the body is dropped on the frame. Without that cut-out, the lower part of the sill could not clear the exhaust tubes! The next task will be to attach the sills to the floor. It must be as precise as possible, because these sills will be the point of reference for the whole body.

Whenever I have to replace one of those pistons, I enlarge the leather with a small screwdriver. Without that, the leather may not apply to the bore and everyone wonders why there is a hole at acceleration. I install the piston dry.

Hi Ben! Glad you are here again! I know the problem with computers...between replacement of the old one and some strange problems last week, I also loosed many addresses... Yesterday and doday was woodworking, trying to dimish the outside dimension of the wood block. With proper equipment, it's a matter of minutes. With no power tools, it takes loooonnnngggguuuueeeerrrr! And it's a good method to develop muscles! The next step it to make a rough profile with the help of a cardboard. I'm doing no pronostic when the form will be completed!

Thank you Scott for you answer. I'm also amazed to see the number of views v/s the number of answers. $ 10.00 per view and I'm rich! Sometimes I'm publishing pictures from the real part I'm reproducing like for the windshield washer bottle, but I'm telling it! I will have to deceive you: there will be no springs on the seats. I'm sure it could be possible to add this little fantasy; but it would go too far. However, I saw in a scale models a way to use foam on seats to give the illusion that springs are under the trim. I will probably no do that because a soft underground is an obstacle for a fair precision. Headliner: some material will be glued on a shell simulating the typical headliner held by support wires, like I did for the Toronado. The carpet will be some kind of velvet. Remember: a model is just an illusion!

To find Plexiglas was a battle...There is a large supplier; the smallest quantity was a bar from 6 meters! Fortunately, I found a small company working with acryl galss and they sold me a bit of round 20 mm. Today, I could do the jar on the lathe; it is not as clear as glass, but I can be satisfied with the result. Such details would have been not possible by reworking a tube of real glass. The most difficult was to polish the inside, but the original part is not perfect either. Good news for the week-end: the spring is coming! I will be able to go to my store room to continue the woodwork.

Those comments may go forth and back as the point of view is different. The question I have is: what would be the market value from an unmodified similar Packard (if practical or not is not the point) with the same high level of restoration work? From there it is then a discussion between the would like owner and Bernie.

Some additional work could be done to the pump; the black wire is simulating the vacuum hose; both copper wires are simulating the wiring for the electrical part. They will be painted later, when the finishing work can begin. 2 "hoses" are missing: the one for the water and the vacuum hose going to the coordinator. People not knowing how is working the vacuum wiper/washer system will be a little bit lost! The jar will be the next task; I have to go in town to find some suitable material.

Not an easy task with just pictures. If I'm understanding your explanation well, I came to 22 panels. For example, each fender, front or rear, is made with 2 pieces. I let you complete my education!

OK, I will do that for this forum. As you probably know, I'm posting also in the Mark II forum. The members there don't need a picture from the real "thing"; most know their car rather well...

Well, this is good idea! OK, here are some pictures from a jar.

Me too! Regarding the jar: it must be clear, so polishing the inside and outside will be mandatory. Casting the jar presents some difficulties: it has to be done with the cover and pump already painted. Then the jar could be cast over the pump, hoping that the resin is not coming over the cover. The mould for the jar must be in 2 parts to be able to remove it. It could be larger than needed and, once the resin is cured, the diameter's jar could be turned on the lathe. How? by clamping on the already painted cover...As you see, there are some difficulties.Regarding your project: I already had a discussion with something similar, maybe here on in another forum. One of the solution would be to include some material to the paint like flour and spray it with a airbrush spray gun. I would not use masking tape as the glue is not stable with the time. Which Buick model do you have/intend to reproduce?

Impressive car...Did you do new body panels with aluminium?

Back from vacation...It was cold, oft raining, unusual in South of France. It seems that all Europe is affected from cold weather... Some days ago, it was just above freezing in my store room/shop, therefore no good for wood work. In my quest to do something, I'm doing now the windshield washer pump. As most of you know, the wipers and washer are operated by vacuum. Lincolns and Continentals have the same system for the washer as Cadillac had till 1955: an hybrid system with vacuum and electricity. The pictures are showing where I'm now. One of the big problem will be to do a jar; at first I wanted to cast the jar with transparent resin; as the pump is down into the jar if something go wrong with the casting, I will get into trouble as the parts may not be usable again. I will probably machine a bit of Plexiglas.

Has your carb an accelerator pump? If yes, when the air filter is removed, you should see a jet of fuel when moving the throttle (engine not running, of course!) If you see nothing, remove the accelerator pump's piston and enlarge the leather with a small screwdriver. Makes wonders...

Is there a separate outlet at the dimmer switch for the RH headlight? Usually it's not the case. You may have to check the ground at that headlamp; nice paint jobs can prevent to have a good ground.

One of the reason was the strong negative influence of the unions and the inability to produce a reliable product. How I know that? I had the "pleasure" to work for Vauxhall at GM Switzerland. That industry had just to disapear; I have no regrets about that.

Thank you cstanley-gs! you will have to wait some time: I'm away from home/workshop for 10 days!

In my quest to do parts until I can begin the body's pattern, I noticed that I have the dimensions from the instrument's bezels. So, I did them with the base for the instruments. The parts will stay that way a long time...

One bit at the time; you will soon have nothing more to asemble! Fortunately, the snow will be gone when you are ready for the first test drive!

Well, I was not totally inactive...I began the third horn and decided not to go further for the moment. I have pictures for the support and the trumpet which comes on the 90° bent rod. But that horn is squeezed between the lower air deflector and the bumper; I'm waiting to have an idea of the available space I will have on the model to continue. It could be that I have to do it smaller and/or shorter. In my quest to do something productive, I did the spark plugs and a tool to torque them with precision () into the cylinder heads. Yes, there are 9, one is for spare in case I have an ignition miss! And yes, the threaded part is too long; I did it that way to facilitate the fabrication. Next futile part? The generator's regulator.

I may not have enough money... I prefer not to know what they charge for the Delahaye. Furthermore, the idea is to do it myself, not from other, it's too easy!

Would you dare to drive with that sculpture?

Well, I don't understand either. OK, English is not my mother language; it seems that one or two recent comments were upsetting Oldcar (Bernie) and he erased the whole theread.

Oups! More than 100'000 views for a small car! Thank you at the people faithfully following this adventure. This week, I was lazy, almost nothing was done. It may happens...