Roger Zimmermann

The molds for the brake’s rubber boots went well. However, the first try to make one piece is so so: I had to cut it to remove it from the internal core. I’m wondering if the black product I have to ad at the transparent resin is not the reason why those parts are lacking some strength. I will try with the white material I have. In between, I finished the ignition coils and I glued them to the radiator. The tiny screws are fake and therefore are just for the show. Another detail: the caps for the oil filling at the heads are now done. Easy parts, except the 80 grooves at the outside diameter… The process was similar to the ribs for the water hoses.

The brass part representing the outer surface from the boot was easily removed from the epoxy resin. Unfortunately, there were bubbles at the edge of the separation surface, rendering the part non usable. I did a new one; this time, I used my electric vacuum pump to avoid the issue. This time, I had no problem. After letting the resin for some days until it's hard, I was ready to do the second halve. I did the walls with plastiline as cardboard was not practical. The first half was less than the exact half from the brass part; as a consequence, the second part was over the middle of the embedded part. Will I be able to remove the brass part? The very slow setting of the resin allowed me to remove the brass part easily: after two days, the resin is still flexible. On the picture four holes can be seen; they will used to insert pins to have both parts in the proper position. While the resin was slowly getting set, I began with the hub caps. This is a simple part with one difficulty: the octagon at the center. This will make the mold more complicated to do. Till I'm finding a solution, I did the retaining rings which will be soldered on the hub caps; one (the seventh) is on the wheel.

Is there enough space between the air cleaner and the hood?

For the moment, the rubber boots for the front brakes are a flop. As I wanted to cut corners, that's the result! I did the negative molds with silicone rubber and attempted to make the boots by using directly the rubber molds. Next to the alignment issue with two soft parts, the wax was probably used too sparingly and one boot's half stayed into the mold. Now, I'm taking another short cut by casting one half mold with hard resin. I hope I can remove the positive brass part from the hardened resin... Another detail had to be added: the lower water tube going from the radiator to the water pump. From the myriad number of pictures I have, there is just one photo partly showing the tube. From the water pump, the tube is going between the crankcase and the generator's air outlet, then by doing a large curve, the tube is going between the draft tube and the frame and finally up to the radiator. The first curve is making sense: the generator can be removed without disturbing the water circuit. I had to rework the RH draft tube as it was on the way to the tube... Like the draft tubes, I hope that the water tube is more or less approaching the reality!

I began the rubber boots for the brakes and went up to the negative mold. Studently, I had enough and wanted to do something else. I just choose the draft tubes. I had many pictures from the upper halves, but few from the bottom. Anyway, enough to guess how they end. Most probably, there will be a discrepancy compared to the originals; who cares? I had to remove the distributor to have access to some screws at the right. As the parts are clean, they got a light coat of primer.

Hi John Thanks for the picture and comments! Obviously, this model was more "used" as mine or was used in a more humid climate, but technically in a better condition. With your car's collection, I understand why you bought it; the grille is really 100% Packard, without mistake or hesitation!

In 1980 I bought a new Olds Cutlass Calais Coupe. This car had the EGR valve and the AIR system. As I'm not found about those add-ons, I disabled the EGR by plugging the vacuum line going to that valve, keeping the stock look. Never had an issue with pinging with such a low compression those engines had at that time. When the warranty was expired (it was just 6 months!), I removed completely the AIR system and plugged the air inlets at the exhaust manifold. Never had an issue with the state inspection and many years later, the car was sold that way.

I'm adding a better description regarding the toys for sale. Some time ago, I was writing about the kid in me in my topic about the scale model I'm building and the frustration when I got toy cars. Over the years, I kept 3 of them (I had no much more, money was tight at home) I'm showing here. The first one, made in Germany, is a fun one: its either a coupe or convertible. A lever in the frame is making the module to turn. That toy has a clockwork, still functioning. Probably the spring was replaced by my father, because the actual one is so strong that it push down the "frame" when is relax situation. The next toy is looking like a Lincoln early fifties. According to the hole on the left side, it had also a clockwork which is gone, as well as the bulbs at the headlamps. It's made in Germany. Then there is a toy looking like a Ford from the fifties; it had probably an electric motor which is gone. I have the impression that I was not very skillful as a kid! And the last one is an electric engine. My father did an adaptation with a steel wire emerging at the front and at the rear. We played in the kitchen: when the engine came at one wall, the wire was pushed back, inversing the direction of the toy. Still functioning. When did I got those toys? at 8, 10 years old? I have no idea...It means that those toys are between 65 and 70 years old and they still have a decent paint!

Those toys are about 65 years old. I got them when I was a kid and played a lot with them. Over the time, there were some break-downs which I tried to repair with mixed results. Before it's too late, those toys should have a new home. In my opinion, the "convertible" car is the most valuable from that group; I would let it go for $ 50.00. The other toys are $ 20.00 each, plus shipping from Switzerland. If there is some interest, I'm ready to do more pictures and an honest description about their condition. Thanks for watching!

It happens that I had a bicycle accident when I was 15; I fell on my head. This is probably why I can spend so much time for two tiny hoses...

Doing tires was easier than the water hoses! If the negative mold was unproblematic, the hose itself was hit and miss. To spray the separating wax, I had to split the negative mold, "open" it with fingers while spraying the product. After a while, the mold unrolled it, allowing to spray the wax on the total inner surface. After a while, the mold closed itself again but was swelled. I had to wait some more hours to slip the mold into a tube done to guide the inner core. Finally, I have one almost perfect and two with various imperfections. As the good one was more as an accident, I decided that it's now enough. By the way, the negative mold was usually destroyed by peeling it from the cast tube. It seems that I don't have enough with silicone rubber: I will now do both rubber booths for the front brake. I will use for that the same Sylgard from Dow Corning I have since more than 40 years. I did the tires for the Toronado and the rest was kept in the refrigerator as this product is ideal for small elements. It can be heated at about 100°C and get cured in 5 minutes...

Well, the first step is done: the pattern or male mold. The challenge was to do the lines on the central section. After a disastrous try, I imagined another way to make the lines by turning a cutting tool 90° and moving it along the brass part. This time the result was good. In fact, that mold is done in 3 separate parts because it was not possible to have a sharp beginning/ending of the lines with the ends attached. The first picture is showing how I did the lines; the second one is the mold completed with an end plate. I will now play with various RTVs hoping to get two acceptable hoses.

I'm coming back indirectly to the radiator: I have to do both upper hoses. Not a big deal, just take a tube! No, it's not that simple, if you see a picture from the real hoses.

The front brakes were long overdue. Even if the radiator is not 100% finished, I did the final installation of the cable and casing. I intended to silver solder the tiny tube arresting the cable at the wheel but I opted for soft soldering. I was wise: I had to adjust the position of that tube to get the proper cable length. For that, I had to remove the wheel shield (one side at the time); at first, I did not recall how it was attached to the axle! Finally, I have functioning brakes at all four wheel, a first to me, thanks the entirely mechanical actuating of the brakes. Oh, I will not leave four black markings on the "street", but each wheel has some braking by pushing the pedal even when the front wheels are steered.

Thanks Randy! Regarding the eventual body, I did explained often which are my plan. I'm not coming back at this.

After our Easter pause, I continued with the shroud. It's very narrow; I suppose it was efficient. Like the original, mine can be adjusted to keep the fan centered.

Take with you a bottle of water and pour the cold water on the fuel pump when you are in trouble.

It's my understanding that during that time, the temperature control was not done with a thermostat controlling the amount of water sent to the radiator but by opening and closing the shutter, controlling the quantity of air going to the radiator. The shutter is actuated by a thermostat; if your system is not functioning, probably the thermostat is gone. I'm showing here the Cadillac system; yours must be similar.

Thanks Neil! If this car is really unrestored, its condition is amazing. I appreciate your thought!

One of the last element added to the radiator is the thermostat system. Of course, there is just a movable lever and behind, nothing! As the base with the lever is soft soldered to the "nut", I exceptionally glued the assembly to the radiator with a two components glue. The last part to be added is the shroud.

To attach the radiator on the frame, I had to do the support. It has two tasks: as I wrote, to attach the radiator on the frame and it's the support also for the radiator surround. I tried to replicate the attaching points for the surround; for the moment no holes are drilled because I have to find first suitable screws. I wrote in one of my ports that there is a cap over the thermostat, but it's not correct. Therefore, I have to make a simplified set-up, just to attach the rod actuating the shutter.

Congratulation! I just have a shy question: is 140°F not too low? More recent engines are running at about 180°F. I have to say that, except making a 1:12 Cadillac V-16 engine and frame, I have no experience with vehicles from that time. By the way, the architecture from your Lincoln engine is, by some aspects, very similar to the V-12 and V-16 Cadillac engines. By looking at the 1932 Cadillac shop manual, I see that the thermostat activating the shutter control is opening at 149° and is completely open at 173°. Those temperatures are relative low, anyway, way lower as what you experienced some months ago.

It seems that you have more experience than I have!

Thanks Mike for your advise. That's effectively something to be considered. I will put them is the memorabilia here with more pictures and if there are no reaction, the search for an auction house will begin!

Thanks! Yes, your parking house is rather crowded!