Roger Zimmermann

Thanks Jeff! Honestly, without that comment from a scale model forum, I would have let it that way. I do appreciate critics when justified and I don't regret to have done a second one (the fist one is free for somebody wanted to make a Mark II scale model!). I was lucky too, because it's not unusual that the second part is worse than the first one. the thicker leather was most certainly beneficial.

In one forum I got the constructive critic that the cover for the spare wheel was too shiny. It was that way because I wanted to spare the associated work by spraying the paint with the airbrush and applied the paint with …a brush. The paint was thicker and, therefore shiny. As there were other unpleasant issues with that cover, I did a new one, using thicker leather. The result is more pleasant and the shine more realistic.

With the spare wheel securely attached to the body, I did the spare wheel cover with leather. The fit is not as good as on the real car because I cannot include a zipper at the back! Anyway, the cover is not too bad looking and can be removed just in case, as well as the spare wheel.

For once, the update is coming the same day! I could not cut the tire but sand it on the lathe. With one mm less in diameter, it was like I did nothing. The tire was too much upright; I had to do some heavy surgeon at the back and down. It’s no wonder: the original tire was either 8.00 x 15 or 8.20 x 15. When I measure the width of my tires, they are more or less like 8.80 x 15 (a dimension which does not exist, it’s just for comparison). Now, as you can see, the tire fits the allowed space and I can close the lid! Even if I don’t need it, I will do the attaching fixture for the wheel and the cover.

Logically, at this point, the trunk trim must be addressed. As with my two previous models, the carpet will be made with velvet because it’s the best material in my opinion, especially for a cut pile carpet. Unfortunately for me, the Mark II has a loop style carpet. Trying to find that would be difficult…Even for the velvet, the color I wanted was difficult to find. I went to many stores; the available colors were not suitable for the model. The last store had more choice: 2! One was too green (could have been fine for the Avanti); I took the dark blue velvet. It’s almost black, but it’s not! A lighter tone would have been welcome… The velvet has 2 disadvantages: it’s a very thick material for that scale and it frays very easily. By looking at various pictures from real cars, the trunk trim is made of several trim pieces; each one has a border sewn to the base material. How to replicate that? I tried with a piece of leather which was not very convincing. As a scale model is an illusion, I opted for a “U” profile made with 0.1mm painted brass. Of course, I used the blue paint from the seats inserts. The next job to finish the trunk compartment is to fit the spare wheel. I have here 2 issues: my tires have a too large diameter, about 2mm and/or the well is not deep enough: the result is that I cannot close the trunk lid when the spare tire is in the trunk! I will try to reduce the diameter on the lathe, giving the impression that the spare tire is well worn and, if necessary, remove material to compensate for the not deep enough well. Then a tire’s cover will have to be made with leather.

Nice machine!

Thanks Jeff for this story! 99% of the people on earth have difficulties to understand that one person can build such a thing part by part and stick on it for so many years….

This company recast the steering wheel from my '56 Biarritz. They did a good job, but I had to rework the unit for the horn ring. By the way, I don't understand why you sent the horn ring with your steering wheel as the recast is not affected by the horn ring.

Are you not afraid that, when the tension is released that the frame will not spring back? What with wetting the wood?

As usual, I appreciate your comments. However, I'm not sure about the question from John. I did not do myself the electric motors and wiring, nor the various bolts and screws but all the other parts are made in my small workshop.

It's looking almost like toy! You will certainly not need a crane to lift the engine. Maybe difficult alone, but with 2 people certainly no problem!

Thanks Randy! The arm rests were first installed and the wires from the switches soldered at the proper location. I also soldered on a temporary basis the wires coming from the door to be sure about the function. There were some glitches but everything came right. The installation from the seat back was rather difficult, probably because not all elements covered with leather were tried first. Technically, the rear compartment is finished. The seat bottom will be installed (indeed, it will be just pushed in place) when the carpet will be installed. Then I installed the hoses for both heater and the remaining vacuum hoses. It was the right time to do the radiator hoses. By searching in my available material, I found a rubber tube which outside diameter is near from what I wanted; I remember I bought that piece of rubber just in case; sometimes I’m lucky! On the real car, the upper hose has slightly smaller outside diameter than the bottom one, but nobody will notice that my hoses have the same dimension! To have a good look, I did also clamps, not the tower style but something I can manage. I slipped into the tubes a suitable brass rod to help the hoses to keep the intended shape, especially the lower one with its 90° angle. The radiator is now installed, I hope that I will not have to remove it again, but you never know!

To me, it's amazing to find such a car in that good condition!

Thanks Barry to show that model to people who are not visiting the forums I'm showing it. Seat belts? What an horror for that period of time! Of course they can save lives, but my model is static, no seat belt is needed. And less parts to do...

I would try that too. If the dent did not damage the paint, chance is good to do the operation in reverse.

Well, one less...I understand your feeling!

Most probably nothing. The weatherstrip is, on the original car, glued on the trunk lid itself, a surface which is hardly seen when the trunk is open. On all my models I have no rubber seal at the doors and trunk. If I think that I should do something, I will use a strip of black tape. The distance between lid and gutter is inconsistent; this is the reason why I'm usually skipping this aspect.

Thanks for the comments, I do appreciate them!

Thanks Frank! A quick note: I could connect the hand brake cable to the lever. The bad news: the hand brake is functioning only marginally: with the lever fully pulled, there is some friction at the drums but not a real braking effect. I should ajust the cable (it's possible) but as the adjusting nut is above the central member from the frame, no way to do it. On the real car, there is a door at the tunnel; even with that door at the model , the chance is slim to be able to turn the nut. Another detail: the model as it's now has a weight of 2'189 grams; 910 for the front axle and 1270 at the rear axle. More weight is coming at the front: fenders, hood, grille and bumper for the heavy parts. The doors are not yet on; they are 130 grams each, the weight will be more or less equally distributed front and rear. The model will be around 3 kg.

Sure, but there are still many questions...Anyway, the number of parts is diminishing on a regular basis; for the moment I have no part I don't know where it should go, which is a good point!

Finally, I could store all the wires into the LH door and close it with the trim. Another problem was noticed: when the upper molding was installed, I could not open the vent window on both doors! This is the result of the too low roof at the “A” pillar and the lowering of the vent window frame to prevent the interference with the roof. Fortunately, I could also lower the inner moldings just enough to insure a vent window function. Yesterday was a good day: after pushing away for several days the mating of the body to the frame, I bite the bullet yesterday. Not without issues: I removed the body four times from the frame! The third time, most screws attaching the body to the frame were installed, the rear bumper too, when I noticed that one screw at the “B” pillar could not go in. I began to bore by hand the floor’s hole with tiny drills till one broke, the remaining bit stuck into the hole. The reason of the clogged hole: I used instant glue to attach a wire to the floor and apparently, some glue went into the hole. Of course I did not check every hole prior the assembly, a major mistake. After the 4th time, no issue was found and the body is sitting definitively on the frame. Now, I can continue with the rear seat/trim assembly, the heater hoses, and so on.

Thanks Randy! Indeed, the moment arrived today, August 6, 2018. Report and pictures soon!

Thanks for the comments! It is somewhat quiet now because I'm pushing away a major event: the installation of the body on the frame. I'm not sure if it's the right moment (I means maybe other things must be done before that, but I don't see any) because due to the complexity, I will not take the body away from the frame once more.

Time to begin a small run!

Don't be mad: there are much junger cars which may have more damages!