Roger Zimmermann

The vacuum tubes are just here to rise or lower the antenna. You must see the lead coming from the antenna, that's the vital part. do you still have AM radio stations in the US?

Most probably, the jack from that '56 Buick was similar to the ones I have in my '56 & '57 cars. You will see the difference between those and the jack from the Mark II when I can show it completed. Thanks for your comments!

That's a difficult question because, when a part is finished, I usually forget all about it! I will try to answer as well as I can: the most enjoying part when I begin a model is the frame. It's usually easy and I like silver solder. I also like turning small (and not so small) parts on the lathe because it's easy! Milling some details is also enjoyable, as long as the part(s) is or are of a regular shape. In fact, doing the body with sheet metal was a fist for me but, after all, not so difficult after some experience. Yes, there were difficult panels like the hood and the trunk lid, but it does not mean that I hated to do them! I However, finishing the body with the various fillers is not what I prefer. Electrical? I don't especially like because I'm not well equipped to manufacture small switches like those for the windows; the ones I did are probably not too reliable. Wiring is a problem because at the correct scale, the wires should not have a diameter larger than a horse hair, which is just not possible. I like to paint parts, but I hate that when I'm faced with problems (but who likes to have problems while painting?), but I really like when a body part is well painted and all shiny! Interior parts are not bad; I like to work with thin leather. This model has various challenges because inside panels are not vertical and there are too many small parts assembled together. Doing the windshield and back window is never something I like to do: the correct shape is difficult to get right and the Plexiglas can react badly if the heat is too high. Sometimes, I'm spending more time to think "how to do that" to have the right aspect, sufficient stability and function as to do the part itself. What I hate and I'm not alone: doing a part, finishing it and found later that it's wrong, like the trunk lid emblem!

While waiting for the decals, I began a futile assembly: the bumper jack. People familiar with US cars from the fifties and later are accustomed to the usual bumper jacks; the one for the Mark II is different and as dangerous to use as the others, simpler ones. As I wanted to have a functional jack, some planning was necessary. The picture is showing almost all parts needed for that accessory. Among the missing parts: the hook which will be made according to my bumpers. In between, the last decal’s batch came in; I can now continue with the dash and further assembly, but first the jack will be finished.

Mine too! Thanks Nelson for your comments!

Who said that English cars are easy?

Yes Jeff, I put it on side recently as it took too much space!

The trunk emblem is ready to get plated. I’m attaching a picture with both emblems for comparison. The space between each line is 1mm.

Did you first bleed the master cylinder? Another (maybe stupid) question: is your car equipped with a Treadle Vac booster or a Hydrovac system which is entirely different? If I'm asking that is because 1954, '55 and '57 Cadillacs had the Hydrovac system; however they had the Treadle Vac system for 1956 & '58. As your car is a '55 model, Buick had maybe the same system as Cadillac. This would also explain why the master cylinder was sleeved which is not possible from design with the Treadle Vac master cylinder. Unfortunately, I don't have Buick shop manuals to check.

No, no, SiliconS, it the picture from my own emblem! As usual, I'm forgetting to put a coin! The memory is a strange thing: before I began the new ornament, I could not remember how the first emblem was done. While “playing” with the second one, the “click” came: I just took 3 pieces of brass large and thick enough to have enough material to file away to get the desired shape. This time I did differently: I prepared the horizontal bar and gave its definitive shape. Then it was the turn to the vertical one. Finally, I did grooves into both parts to have an as perfect as possible fit. As I’m using that fantastic silver solder paste, if a void is too large, the result will be compromised. Joining both parts went well, no rework at the joints were necessary; however, the cross is not yet ready: a tiny part, the one behind the helmet, had to be done separately for practical reasons. More grooves and fitting were performed until I was satisfied. The soldering paste came once more in action; the attached picture is showing the cross without any rework after the soldering; a good polishing will be needed to remove the residues and discoloration on the brass. Compared to the old cross, the emerging vertical bars have the same length when measured from the horizontal bar’s edges. The next steps are more grooves to have the décor support fitted, plus another four grooves for the circle.

Yes. Fog lamp & turn signal with a 1044 bulb, plus a parking bulb.

I would not dare to do that in Switzerland!

Thanks Keith! Recently, I took a decision: I will redo the trunk lid ornament. Those unequal fields are disturbing more and more. Have a look at the picture: the upper distance from horizontal bar to the circle is 3.5mm, the distance under is 4mm! Why did I not see it wile going the part? Some blindness I suppose... I don't even remember how I did that part, especially the odd shape by the lock ; I only remember that it was difficult to do. Fortunately, I can save the head hiding the lock.

Cadillacs from the fifties had fog lamps as an option. My '56 de Ville had them too. One night, I tried to use only the fog lamps, on an empty road. Oh Boy! Driving without any illumination would be the same. They look good on the car, but they are totally inefficient! OK, they are fog lamps, not driving lamps. However, modern fog lamps are giving some light in front and on the side. Those? Almost othing! The picture is from my '56 Biarritz. The de Ville had the same configuration; the '57 Brougham I have has similar fog lamps.

Interesting approach. You wrote that you will spray the clear coat after a few days. Are you doin that directly on the paint, without sanding? If done without sanding, how is the adhesion between both products?

Thanks SiliconS and Pat! About searching for parts: you are not alone; sometimes I'm spending a lot of time to search parts I remember I did it (or them)! It was also the case when I restored my cars scale 1:1: some of those parts just disappear like that!

Oups! I found the number you wrote...For 1952, 3200 cars from the Serie 75 have been built and "only" 2200 for 1953 for both versions Seventy-Five Sedans and Seventy-Five Limousines. When an engine went bad, it was more easy to find an engine from the other series; in '52 there were 16'110 Sixty Special (Serie 60) and 20'000 for 1953. There were much more cars from the Serie 62: more than 60'000 units for '52 and more than 75'000 for '53. Why both cars you have had a replacement engine from a 1953 Serie 60? I suppose people at that time used what they found...

Thanks Jeff! You resumed the situation perfectly with just one small error: what you see on the quarter arm rest is not an ash tray but the bezel for the window switch! The ash tray for the rear passenger is located at the end of both door's arm rests

I had a look 2 or 3 times at this post; I don't see an engine number. Where did you see it?

Some time ago, I ordered the last decals for the instrument cluster. When the decals are available, I can finish the dash assembly and install it into the car. I realized that the wiring for the RH door must be finished first because, once the dash is installed, the wiring for that door will be hidden behind the RH kick panel which is integrated into the dash. The question was what is the best routing to choose for the wiring which must be connected with the master window switch from the LH door? At first, I wanted to route it on the floor; finally, I choose the solution to route it right under the dash. This solution prevents a mess on the floor and tunnel with 5 more wires but the door must be pre-installed on the car before I’m assembling the dash! The door will lie near the body, the wiring inserted at the right place and the dash installed. Why can I not install the door first? Because I need the room to attach the various screws. The wires for the lamps must also be routed at the same time. It was also obvious that the carpet on the RH side and on the tunnel at the front must be installed before the dash. As the LH kick panel is installed separately, I will have the access to the LH wires once the dash is in the car. Once the wiring is finished, the carpet on the LH side will be continued. Are you confused? Me too! As you can see, this last step is complex; I hope I can connect all the wires properly. I took also a decision: the chrome plates on the “B” pillar will not be used. They are not very nice and they do interfere with the door as I remarked during a test.

English construction and complexity! This has at least one benefit: the outside dimension from the flywheel housing is smaller, important for a small car.

Since a very long time, the LH front fender had a bad paint, because when I sanded to clear coat to eliminate some imperfections, I went too far and sanded the color coat. Later, I wanted to paint that fender, but I got various steps like I had the first time I painted the body; this was awful. I sanded the whole surface and put it on side. As I’m waiting for the decals from the dash, I reluctantly attempted to paint that fender. If the color coat went well, as usual, I sprayed too much clear coat and got runs. Fortunately, when completely dry, the runs can be sanded and polished. I noticed also that the various steps did not appear again; I assume that after the paint can dry for several weeks/months, the fresh paint has no more influence on the base. The day before, I attempted to install the dashboard to check if it still can be installed. I had one unforeseen problem: the glove box could not be closed! Why? One screw attaching the box for the relays at the firewall prevented the closing of the glove box! The protruding screw was grinded, excess paint at the back of the glove box was removed; a further attempt to install the dashboard was positive. To have some braking effect with the emergency brake, I shortened by 3mm the wire emerging from the firewall. When the brake handle is pulled completely, I have some braking at both rear wheels. As I still don’t know if that handle will be reachable once the steering wheel and door are installed, this correction was done uniquely to be able to say “yes, the emergency brake is functioning!”

Very modern steering gear, compared to what was used at that time.

By chance, I don't like beer! Interesting aspect of the ketchup!

Thanks Randy! Yes, when all is done, I will do that terrific jack. I did not event thought about the label; I have to search in my pictures if I see one. As I gave recently an order for decals, it may be too late as I will be away for some time. The bumper jack was installed on the side of the RH rear fender and also just behind the spare wheel, flat on the floor. I don't remember right now which version was the first one. Mine will be place behind the spare wheel. There is a hook at wich the jack is attached; I skipped the hook for practical reason and I will find a method to secure the jack. There is a lamp inside the trunk; it is installed on the cover allowing access to the lid lock. As I will certainly redo the exterior emblem at the trunk lid, this cover is not yet installed. Of course, my lamp is a dummy one.