Roger Zimmermann

Mostly after each step, I’m checking if the electrical functions are still up to my expectation. Recently, I saw that the LH quarter window had difficulties to go up and down, like a poor contact. Before I’m installing the LH door, I wanted to be sure if the missing electric wires from the LH door would change the situation: it was not. However, I discovered that both vent windows were moving when I wanted to operate the RH one from the driver’s door. No problem with the LH one, not with the RH vent window when operated from the RH door. Another gremlin to chase! I removed the LH door armrest to check the wiring. Effectively, one wire was soldered at the wrong place! I did many checks before, but never when all was connected together. Once the wire was soldered at the right place, the operating of the vent windows was correct. By applying current directly to the LH quarter window’s motor, the window went up and down without problem, but not with the switch. There was one solution: to remove the LH arm rest to check the switch. For that, I had to remove the seat back which after some weeks in place was sticking. I managed to damage the RH arm rest’s leather, I was very happy! The contacts (not easy to remove when the wiring is attached) from the LH arm rest were OK, but I still had a problem with the window. In between, I removed the damaged RH arm rest to redo the leather. I checked the switch; I had the impression that one of the blades was still making contact. Indeed, now the LH quarter window went up and down without problem! Finally, both arm rests are back again and the windows are OK. Without the damaged leather, I would not have found the problem. Ah! the joy of electricity!

It remember a story in the Cadillac LaSalle club forum: a guy tried to overhaul his power steering pump on a '54 or '55 Cad, without success, there was just no assistance. Finally, it was discovered that a "o" ring was too thick. The same kit with the same o ring is still available; other people suffered from the same experience.

Could it be that you had the wrong seal? Those master cylinders are so simple, I only see that as explanation.

I heard about those plugs years ago, but was unable to find them; a man with a '59 Eldo bought 8 of them to tune his 3-carbs set-up. Probably I did not search enough...

Years ago, I ordered an exhaust system from a company in Florida (they may be out of business now) for a '48 or '49 Buick. By chance, I had access to a metal construction shop and I could correct the many bents which were wrong. For what I heard, Waldron exhaust is more reliable You may ask them for the pipes.

It remember me when I first started the engine from my '56 Biarritz: I forgot to tighten the carbs covers: fuel was squirting; after a while, there was oil on the floor: the cover from the oil filter was not tight and suddently, I remember that there was no oil in the transmission!

Oh! The risk was well calculated: the owner of the car lifted it with an overhead crane. The picture is showing one of both hooks; the long jack stands on the previous picture were indeed just for show because if the overhead crane would have a problem, those jack stands would have collapsed. He is doing since years the maintenance from his car with the same system!

You are right, but I was indeed inside the car! (at least the fingers…) To make a creeper would not be a problem, after the jack! Have a look at the picture: here, I went under the car to measure details of the frame and floor; I was not very confident about the situation! To zipdang: indeed the car could not move as boxes and floor are horizontal; the wheels are just at a different altitude. The creeper is there to avoid a movement when I'm pushing on the floor!

Why the model is now in this strange position? Something to repair under the car? No, it’s just to keep the door open while I’m finishing the RH carpeting: as the check link is not yet installed, the door is closing itself which is very annoying to: keep the door open, hold the torch to illuminate the inside (a light colored carpet would solve this), push the finishing carpet into position and hold the glasses which are falling down when I’m trying to see something from the LH door aperture! At least, the last bit of the carpet on the right side is finished; the closing panel between the carpet and glove box is also installed. This side is ready, which is not yet the case on the other side. The weight of the model right now: rear axle 1611g (56.8 oz); front axle 1044g (36.9 oz), total 2655g or 93.7 oz. When to front clip will be assembled, the front axle will much more heavier, the model near 3kg or more than 100 ounces.

Recently, I completed the steering column after I added the gear selector’s decal. By looking at the picture, the horn ring does not please me: the line between the chrome and blue paint is too irregular; I did it just with a brush without masking tape. Definitively not to my usual standard!

I cannot imagine the costs associated with the transportation of huge machines...

Yes, I know somebody who is talented and usually is working for the watch industry. Maybe something to consider!

If one of my followers is asking for something, I may well try to do what was wanted! Here are 2 quick pictures at a different angle. With a better illumination the effect would be better. I'm probably a better scale model builder as a good photograph!

It's like Hershey in France! Are all those vehicles for sale or just for exhibition?

Most of the time, I'm taking pictures just to show a specific detail or surround. It this case, the new emblem. But you are right, this art of pictures is not the way somebody would look at the real car, unless he is on a ladder. A more realistic rear view will be done when I have some license plate attached on the bumper! The background is also an issue; it requires a different environment than my work desk. Of course, once the model is ready, the following pictures will be done the way you described. I did them that way when the body was painted and on the frame.

Thanks Pat! I'm using regular soft solder and only a few quantity of soldering grease. This is this product which is emitting fumes when used liberally. This is also the reason why I prefer to solder the wires outside of the car. There are no registration paper in the glove box (I'm not equipped to create such documents at this scale), but a license plate will come. Don't know yet how it will look like, I still have a few months to decide!

Fortunately, there are more good news than bad ones, at least with that model. Routing the door’s harness through the floor was not a big deal; I have enough slack to solder the wires on the board outside the car; on the first picture, you can see that board in its approximate final position. The plan is to do the same with the LH door: pass the wiring through the A pillar; the wire should be long enough to solder them at the corresponding place on that board slightly out of the car. Once the carpet on the RH side was replaced, (the carpet under the feet will be installed later), I could try to install the dash; I had to take it out 2 times due to the routing of the remaining wires. The moldings at the base of the windshield could also be installed; by chance I could insert 5 from 6 small screws to attach the moldings to the firewall. The 6th screw could not be installed because, when I constructed those parts, the roof was not attached and that screw behind the instruments pod could be screwed in. Now, the roof is in the way…I will put a dummy screw to plug the hole. I had to shorten a bit the upper door’s molding, it was touching at the rear quarter and at the dash; fortunately that molding is just pushed on the trim! Yesterday, the trunk emblem came home from the chrome shop. Today, I put a new decal on the base and installed the assembly on the trunk. Honestly, the difference between the old emblem and to new one is not overwhelming; most probably the effort to make a new part was not necessary but I have now a part without design error.

To fyreline: it would be fine if an assembly manual would be available and telling "don't do that way but put that thing here!" Halas, I have to "write" that manual myself and do the necessary corrections! To Randy: I was almost sure that the jack would create some reaction because it's not at all expected on a scale model! To keiser31 and Nelson: There is a pocket at the base of the rear bumper, near the attaching points to the frame, see the attached picture. On the front, the hook is grabbing at the bumper's bracket. On my Cadillacs from the fifties, the bumper jack brabs the bumper at its base, the hook is following the shape of the bumper. On the '57 Brougham, there is a hole at the bumper ends, the hook is coming into that hope. I discovered that when I have to lift the rear of the car after one levelling valve lost the air for the suspension during a drive. There were later slots into the bumpers; my '80 Olds had them. Yesterday, I removed some pieces from the carpet (velvet) and the underlying material. Boy! I did not spare with the glue when I did that! I will use less in the future…Now, the RH door is permanently “attached” to the body with the wiring. To keep the excess wiring as short as possible, I put the door on some wood and protective material. That way, I can work into the car without be limited by the door. It would be nice to have connector(s) but they are taking too much space! The wiring is held on the floor with instant glue; I hope that I will not have to do some modification! The wires are adding some height at the tunnel; I will have to do some padding on the tunnel to have a level surface with the wires. Today, I will redo the carpeting on the RH side. The next step is to solder the wires to a circuit board which will be located behind the LH kick panel. After that, the dash will come in.

Pat, you are asking too much, see below: Usually, when I’m reluctant to begin a task, problems will arise. This is what is happening with the installation of the RH door wiring and the dash into the car: the wiring is jamming at each end of the dash! One step forwards and 3 backwards: I will have to do the wiring across the floor but for that, I have to remove the carpet I already installed! Of course, the velvet will be destroyed because it is glued to the support. Sometimes modelling is not fun!

Thanks for the comments; I appreciate that you are enjoying what I'm doing! After the bumper jack digression, I’m back to the model. As I got the decals for the dash, it was time to use them; this was the last step before the dash could be definitively assembled.. After the assembly, I did a test fit in the car; I had to relocate the wiring for the lamps at the switch to avoid an interference with the hand brake support. It was more a supposition as it’s rather difficult to see something when the assembly is in place. I removed also some brass at the base of the console because the velvet is so thick I had difficulties to have the proper dash’s location. Without wiring, the dash would be already installed. I have to plan with great care how I will proceed now with the door’s wires.

You may be right!

The jacking instructions are more detailed than the ones for the Mark II in the owner's manual. As far as I know, there is no jack card/instructions in the trunk, but I may be wrong. Nice work with your scanner!

Nelson, are you the person (with your wife) who visited me long ago? I remember you were amazed that all I did was in that small room! Anyway, thanks for your comments, they are appreciated.

Usually, some specific diagrams are in the "body" section. I don't have a '52 shop manual so I cannot be sure.

While soft soldering one of both bearings for the long screw, the screw got soldered too! Fortunately, I could unsolder the bearing and screw. With some rework (using a steel part to avoid the same accident), I could finish the main part. Then it was the turn of the second leg and the handle. I got then in trouble with the hook. I had good pictures from a Mark II forum member and I could not figure how that should work because I was on the wrong brand: on my Cadillacs, the hook is following the shape or the bumper, but not here. Anyway both bumpers don’t have the same profile; therefore a little change from the common practice was developed for the Mark II: the hook is contacting the rear bumper at the bottom; the upper part of the hook is pushing against the upper bar. It’s a little bit different at the front: the hook is grabbing a bumper support and, like at the rear, the upper part is pushing the upper bar. I did a quick try with the model; it works well! Now, the jack should be painted. With a little use just for the fun, there will be some scratches due to the nature of that tool. That’s life!