Roger Zimmermann

Nice underbody!

Thanks Mike! I'm glad I can do something for you...

It's incredible how unprecise the various elements were welded together. That truck is now better than new...

As a preparation for the cross member, I assembled the transmission with 3 screws to the engine and put the assembly into the frame. The transmission's supports are about at mid-distance of the frame! The "usable" space is indeed rather small compared to a modern car. No wonder that they offered a longer wheelbase! My model is on the short one, 143".

Thanks for that link and video. That's an incredible construction! Why should I remove your post? It's entertaining, like what I'm doing!

No, the ball is just something to let swing the torque tube, like a knee. In the real car, there is an universal joint behind that ball, connected to the drive shaft. The torque tube is screwed at the ball and at the differential. Indeed, I suppose that Buick cars from that time till the early fifties had a similar system, as well as other vehicles with a torque tube. Most certainly if you google "torque tube" you will have a better description as I can do.

When a scale model is just a push mobile, some liberties are possible. As mentioned in my last post, the torque tube for the drive shaft is attached to a ball. This element is looking like a bell with an outside shape like a ball and the inside shaped in a similar fashion. That ball is pushing on a ball seat and the transmission support is the third member of the assembly. There is a procedure to minimize the free play. That complex set-up is not really suitable for a scale model, so I simplified it. The ball seat in my construction is indeed a ball; the ball as designed by the manufacturer is resting on it. As in reality, the support is closing the assembly. At first, I intended to have the ball pushed against the transmission support with a spring, however, as the assembly must prevent the rear axle to go forth and back, I modified my design. The first picture is showing the "ball seat"; the ball and rear support are on the second picture. The third one is showing the assembly. I have some free play (maybe 0.2mm - 0.008") which will not be detrimental to the model. The rear transmission support is a nice casting which took more time to build as the ball and its seat. Now, I have the total length from the engine and transmission; I will begin the second cross member soon; I may have some other details to do.

However, it was better looking in pictures than in reality!

There are still a myriad of small parts do do to declare the transmission "completed": the clutch lever, the upper cover with the shaft for the hand brake, the adapter on the left side with the shaft for the clutch and brake pedals, and son on. I elected to continue towards the rear for a good reason: to be able to finish the frame. Transmission and frame? What is the relation? Easy: there are 6 supports for the engine and transmission: 2 at the front, which are done. Two at the rear of the engine, attached to the frame and finally, two at the end of the transmission attached to the second cross member. I need the complete engine and transmission to do this cross member! The next part needed was the housing for the main shaft of the transmission (sans shaft on the model). This part is an assembly of a "hat" and a lower housing. I had the stupid idea to do the lower housing in one piece. The end result was not so good, therefore is did it in two bits assembled with silver solder. On the picture, the "hat" has a hole. This was needed to remove the shaft from the idler gear in case of trouble with the transmission installed in the frame. The next element will be more complicated with my simple equipment: creating the ball seat, ball assembly and rear support. The ball assembly is needed to allow the drive shaft's tube to follow the movements of the suspension. As my suspension will be active like my other models, I cannot escape this provision.

Thanks drhach! Sometimes I'm good at inventing new words...However, this time the spelling device did not protest. Further, humecting is implying less water than "get it wet". Because, when the cardboard is wet, you can just throw it away! Thanks Randy! Effectively, the offset gave me a lot of trouble...

Yes! I had previously a problem: cardboard can be bent in one direction but not in two. By humecting the carboard, it's possible to have compound curves, however with some limitation. On this model, the bumpers are made with painted wood!

Well, my father and his father were woodworkers. Not exactly high precision business! Since a young boy, I was attracted by automobiles, to the dismay of my father. I'm not aware from people from our family who was involved in the precision industry. Thinking a bit (it may happen!), my mother's brother was a funny guy; he had a restaurant on a tiny village, did his own lemonade, had various (or just one?) old cars and was mechanically inclined. Did I get something from him? When a got a car toy (mostly tin models), I was disappointed by the lack of details. Maybe as I was frustrated, I began to make cars with cardboard; with that crude material, I was able to make doors which could be opened. The very last usage of that material was for a Chrysler from the sixties which is no more existing. Still crude, but for the next project, the polyester would improve the end result.

Thanks for your comments! I'm almost never working the whole day. And, dealing with tiny things is a matter of habits. I never had the feeling that my eyes are tired; maybe I'm lucky! What is your next question?

Like on the generator, they are fake screws!

Oh! Randy, this is a discussion which would never end (about the prices and repair impossibilities), I prefer not to touch that subject. The shop manual has a chart for the lubrification. The number of lube points is incredible, I will have to count them when I will add them to the model! The last details were added to the starter motor: the switch, some ribs and the flange for the lever pushing on the switch's button. Now that the assembly is completed, I can do that lever. I gave a light coat of primer to avoid further oxidation. The apertures at the commutator's end are just here for the fun. They should be wider to be correct. Anyway, a large cover band will be added later, similar to the one for the generator. On the pictures I have from Johan, there is another bracket welded on top of the switch for a different actuating lever. On the '32 V-8 photos album, also from Johan, there is no bracket. Therefore I skip it.

So much time for so little! In fact, I spent 3 afternoons to install the front seat into my '72 coupe, scale 1:1. Even if it was only 5°C, I did not felt the cold temperature because those seats are not easy to handle, especially alone! In between, I could do the tortuous parts between the starter motor and the transmission. I began the parts attached to the starter motor, going forwards. At one time, I had to begin the adapter which is part of the transmission's case, hoping that no major flaw would appear when all is assembled. I'm making no illusion: the assembly is looking similar to the real one, but not exactly identical. Some details must be added like the flange for the operating lever. As most of the readers don't know how that starter motor is operated, a short description may be useful: when the driver want to start the engine, he is pushing a pedal located at the right of the gas pedal. With some levers and rods, this action has two consequences: first the pinion is pushed forwards to the flywheel and second, the lever is pushing a contact on a switch installed on the top of the starter motor, connecting the battery to the motor. With some chance, the engine will start. As I never experienced myself such a starting procedure, owners for car dating from this time will correct me if I'm wrong.

Well, Pat, I cannot answer positively. My parts book is going from 1928 till 1936; that system was used for all years covered by the parts list.

Those transmissions were among the first ones to by synchronized. Those plates, two at each side, are to adjust both yokes located into the transmission. As the shop manuals at that time were minimalist, don't ask further, I don't have the answer!

If the provision for the clutch lever went not too bad (I have much more time to design and "place" it on the transmission than to do the part), it's another story for the installation of the starter motor. Finally, I began with the motor, working towards the transmission. As I had the length and diameter of the motor, I have the impression that it will be easier to adapt the assembly to the transmission than doing the contrary. Just to show you why it's difficult, I'm adding two pictures from the original assembly. You will notice that all elements after the starter motor are at odd angles and not in line with the motor because there was a reduction gear. No picture about what I did because a starter motor is just a cylinder, nothing spectacular.

The main case was silver soldered to the flywheel cover. This operation was critical as the transmission must be in a good alignment with the engine. Now, I'm two steps away to have the transmission's case ready: the provision for the clutch lever on the LH side and the one for the starter motor on the RH side must be added. As I neglected to measure in detail both elements, I will have to rely on the many pictures I have to do something decent.

Shrinking clear coat? Does not sound very good. Effectively, by buffing the clear coat through, there is only one solution: redo the color and clear coat. Hope for you that the hood is now good!

Yes, of course it's better to discuss with a bit more "intimacy"! My email: cadillac_parts@bluewin.ch For years (before Internet), I searched parts for Swiss and French people...

Wow! Did you were awake during the day? Anyway, thanks to have a look at my adventures since the begin! Thanks also for the appreciation if my little things... The last details were added on the main body of the transmission. On the LH side: drain and refill plugs. On the RH side: 3 attaching points and the vertical surface for the locking yoke pin plate. On the V-12 and V-16, both front attaching points are used to attach the ratchet for the hand brake lever; on the V-8 cars, the two rear attaching points are used for the ratchet. Now, I "just" have to attach the case to the flywheel cover...

Hi Kari Thanks for your comments! Yes, as you saw, I had about 10 years to restore that car. Some cash was also needed...Al was done before Internet, complicating the matter, but, as you could see, it was possible! I still have some parts from that project. I bought them maybe 20 or 30 years ago, when the exchange rate was not se favorable for me. I know no place in Europe selling parts for this model. Of course, there are some parts resellers, especially in Germany and countries like Sweden, but I never search there for my needs. I'm listing below what I have in excess with prices in Swiss Francs. Depending where you are living, you have to calculate in your own currency. 1 Sabre hubcap medallion, repro CHF 62.- 1 hood emblem, plastic, repro 230.- 1 base for the hood emblem, repro 140.- V for the trunk and hood, used 40.- each. If my memory is good, several to choose. 1 emblem for the seat, repro 215.- 2 original back-up lenses, way from perfect, 25.- each 1 NOS windshield wiper transmission 130.- This a transmission for an early '56 car, with a small pulley. Later cars had a larger pulley. 1 glove box lock with key, repro 135.- 1 molding for the top of rear fenders, made in bronze as original ones were not available. Must be adjusted, polished and chromed 180.- 1 molding for the top of rear fenders, not assembled (they were made in 2 pieces) 140.- 1 windshield washer jar, repro 75.- 1 RH front bumper end, rechromed 400.- 1 fog lamp lens, NOS 140.- 4 or 5 NOS bulbs 1044 for the fog lamps 48.- (difficult to find) I may have other parts I did not listed; the storage room for my cars and parts is rather large... I may have some mechanical parts; they are however easy to find except maybe crankshaft or cylinder heads (I have 2) The above prices will seem rather excessive, but they include the cost of the part(s), the shipping costs and customs when I bought them. I may however be ready to adjust prices if I have a reasonable offer. For some parts I have pictures. Have a good time with your restoration!

The last few days saw some improvements at the parts from the transmission. Elements were added at the main body; some more will come next. At first, I intended to adjust the main body to the flywheel cover; finally, I inserted the body into the cover. With this move, it will be easier to control distances and alignment. Both elements are not yet soldered; I will first add details on the RH side of the main body.