Roger Zimmermann

Well, thanks for the suggestion. I will have to check, but when I began with the Toronado, the consensus was to continue with the same thread. At that period, I had no intention to do another model...until I saw that I was missing a good occupation. I will think about the changes.

Don, je ne crois pas que ce soit une bonne idée: comme je suis pasresseux, je fais "copier-coller" mes aventures dans trois forums!

McVey is selling those. Unfortunately, they are in back-order. Maybe other Cadillac vendors have them.

To Don: yes paint can create issues. When the parts are created, for example the hood's doors, to get a good look, the play between hood and door should be 0.1 mm (0.004") With paint on both parts, no more movement will be possible! I'm doing a 0.2mm play (0.008") and will be careful with paint thickness! The rolled edges are indeed necessary as I'm using a 0.2mm thick brass. Without those edges, they could not be flat. I asked Johan, the man who restored the V-16 frame and engine, plus a '32 V-8 car; he said that the doors are individually opened/closed. Indeed, on the detailled pictures I have from him, there is no provision for a link or connector. To Pat: sorry if my adventures in brass (and other materials) is stealing your time! On the other side, those who really appreciate the details or the "how to do" are the minority. At one time, I published my adventures in a French forum, now inactive. I had the same observation: lot of views and few who asked questions, and usually all the time the same persons. The difference between my answers to that forum and here: in my native language, I can explain way better than in English! Those questions and comments are indeed the reason why I do continue to show what I'm doing in my small room!

Could you please tell me what's a HVLP gun? Maybe you had not enough thinner. Severe orange peel requires more sanding and only then can you see if the surface is good enough for your liking.

Clever, me? No! Just stubborn! In fact, if I had that issue 20 years earlier, I would have used the same solution like you...because then, I had no time! It seems to be a paradox, but in fact, I'm no more rushing things. Need to make a special tool for this or that? I'll do it! On my previous models, I was much more restrictive, because, as I just wrote, I had no time to spend on a tool... Usually, the turnaround is 3 to 4 weeks. I'm lucky that the plating company is doing work also for the watch industry, so they are not afraid to handle my trees. Of course, they don't have to polish or handle the parts mechanically, they "just" put each tree in various bathes. No mater if the tree is large or small, the price was the same for the Mark II: CHF 50.00 per tree. (about $ 60.00 at the actual rate). The price will probably be higher this time!

It seems that Randy and Don are near an excellent supplier...For the moment I'm well set, but for how long? The hinge has been sent; it will be interesting to see if that will be OK with my requirements. Regardin the screws and nuts: I have a good supplier in Germany and, for metric stainless steel bolts and nuts, in the USA (Model Motorcars)! I could hate the designer who wanted 7 doors each side of the hood! I began by doing a female and male die for the doors. The idea was to stamp the doors, but I rejected that idea: for that, the dies must be perfectly aligned, requiring an elaborate construction. Then, I was not sure if my thin female die would be strong enough to shape the brass at the corners. Finally, I shaped each door on the mal die (a small hammer is a wonderful tool!) and pushed the assembly through the female die to have some uniformity. Then I did another male die and enlarged the female one to shape the flanges which will be soldered to the hood’s sides. To press the flanges into the hood’s side would be perfect, but here too, a complex set-up should be created. Therefore, the flanges will be soft soldered to the hood’s sides. On the first picture, there are 13 doors and 14 flanges, plus the dies at the bottom. The flanges are looking like grown doors because the holes are not yet done. They will be shaped once the flanges are soldered to ease the work. The big question was the operation of the doors. From Johan, I have plenty of pictures from the doors, but the question was about the spring which should keep open or close each door. I did a construction on which a door was installed (in fact, the doors are just pushed into a “pocket”, the spring is keeping them in place). I had difficulties to understand how that spring could to that job. At first, either the testing door would not stay open, then could not stay closed…I did another “hinge” (a stamped piece of brass, requiring several die changes) and did 3 holes at various positions. The spring was too strong, I had inconsistent results. Finally, I did a narrower and shorter spring and saw that when the open ends of the springs are installed into the hinge’s middle hole, I have a wonderful door operation, staying either closed or open at will. Now, I can continue my mass production!

Well...there are so many threads on this forum, it's easy to miss one or more! Myself, I don't take the time to look at all for for various reasons. Thanks to follow my adventures!

Hi Don Thank you for doing my job! Inded, this afternoon, I searched for hinges in Europe; came to some in steel plated with brass or other which were too large. Went further with the search and found the ones offered by Micro Mark, which is the one you are suggesting. I tried to order one piece, not knowing if they are shipping in foreign countries. They do! The shipping is more expensive than the part, it's nowadays usual... For the moment, no steel tubing. I did not check if Mc Master is shipping abroad; for the moment it's not necessary to know. Probably those tubes can be found in Europe if I ever would need some. The caliper I'm using is 59 years old...I had to buy it during my apprenticeship. Of course, there are digital calipers here; if they can be switched between metric and inches? I don't care!

@ m-mman: you are right, there is a nice cover over the bateries...If I would own such a car, I would take what's available; for a scale model, it's a bit different, mine will have no acid at all! @ keiser31: thank for the link, but what I got from Lee H is better! @ Lee H: thanks a lot for your search. Indeed, 1931 batteries are almost the same style with the ones from 1953 to 1956 Cadillacs (but with 12 V); 1932 and 1933 V-16 models are almost identical. The service manuals are giving some data, but not so much as what you published here!

If I'm right, those cars had a compressor with was run with a belt. The Oldsmobile had a turbo-compressor driven by the exhaust gases; the system is different.

Thanks Jensenracing77! You will be busy for a couple of hours if you want to look at the complete thread!

Thanks for the hint. Yesterday, I had a look in the books from Gerald Wingrove; he describes in detail how to do that. I don't remember if you know where to buy small stainless tubes; they would be great for the hinge in the middle of the hood. It requires some work; that logicasl with scales models... The guy wo did the model T was well known in that defunct forum; I saw probably his build. Kent was his name if I'm right.

Not much success with my question...

I saw you had paint on top of the block. Did you remove it prior the head installation?

Don, the weather is OK. Some sun, not cold, almost Spring time! However, it will change tomorrow... Most probably my planning was not the best. I should begin the body, but I cannot: I ordered some 0.3 mm brass for the firewall; the material, coming from Germany, is probably lost, I will have to reorder. I asked for pictures and specific dimensions; I’ll have to wait. I wanted to have the hood’s length, it was quite an adventure to get it, but since yesterday, I have it. This afternoon, I got the dimensions from the hood’s venting doors (thanks Johan!). There are 14 pieces to do, I will be busy for a long time because I have also to design the hinges to open/close them. As the hood’s sides are flat, I will do that too. The sole problem I have not yet solved is the method to do the hinges attaching the hood’s sides to the upper panels. The last few days, I searched what I could do and, indeed, I found some details. The small raised element from the grille could be done, but the exterior only. The interior will be trimmed when that element is soldered to the grille surround, otherwise it will be too delicate. Then I got the idea to do the bolts which, on the real car, are attaching the valve covers to the heads. I saw in my older drawings that the idea was to turn and mill fake screws which would be chrome plated. I changed my plan be running a tap and using M .8 stainless screws. I had to shorten them somewhat and polish the head. Finally, I saw that the filler tube for the tank was not yet done. Thanks to Johan pictures, I could do something which are similar to the original. For the moment, the tube is too tall, it will be adjusted when the tank cover will be done. I had to modify the exhaust system to have the clearance; again, bad planning...

This name is not unknown from me, but it was maybe 30 years ago, or more!

When I began the project, I wrote probably that I try to build the frame and engine. If my health allows it, I may continue with some body elements. As I still can do something, well...I'm continuing! I quickly remarked that to build only the firewall and hood without to have the remaining parts in consideration is a bad decision. As all is more or less interconnected, I have to draw and do the pattern no matter what I may be limited to do. For the moment, fenders are put on side because they are not the first elements assembled on the frame, but I'll planing them too.

Flexible hoses can get damaged internally and don't let the fluid return to the master cylinder. Even recent ons can be defective. Try to open the bleeder from one wheel; if the wheel is rotating after that, you have the solution.

No, no Don, no way! I hate such machines, they are very dangerous if you don't master them at 100%! However, he has woodworking tools which may be helpful...However, he is located a tad too far!

Hi Don! Indeed, I used that method with the Mark II, making a pattern with fiberglass molds, especially for the doors and rear fenders. Finally, the usage of that method is rather limited unless the molds are really thick, or reinforced the way you described. As the original body is anyway grafted on a wood structure, I could do my own parts thick enough to avoid structural work. I'm not that far, I have first to carve the wood!

If you are taking a picture of the body plate and show it to us, we could tell what was the original trim. The body plate is on the firewall, visible when you open the hood.

Hi all! As several people here are dealing with very old vehicles, I'm wondering if somebody has a basttery listing from the early thirties. According to the shop manual, the battery for the 452-BC modells (1932 & 1933 V-16 engines) was a Delco 25 AW as the standard battery. For my scale model, I'm just wondering how large that battery was. It's width was certainly similar to the V-8 models at 6.8" to 7". I just need the length and height... Thanks for looking into your old listing!

Since some weeks, I'm trying to plan and draw the body. I got dimensions from my two aids, but they are contradicting. Finally, I ordered this morning a 1:24 V-16 kit from Monogram. I hope this kit will allow me to draw the car’s profile, even if the body from the kit is not the right one. At least, the front till the door will be greatly similar. As I have good hope to have soon a good base, I ordered today the wood for the patterns. I’m still not yet sure if the main body will be brass or fiberglass with polyester. The hood will be brass by necessity, I’m still unsure about the cowl. After my experience with the Mark II I will have to weight advantages and inconvenient from both materials.

Yes, this is an earlier model. Not suitable for "heavy" work but useful as a drill press! Oh, by the way, I just bought an electric motor for the other Emco; the original one has a lot of play at the belt's side. The motor I bought is not new but in a very good condition and was located in Spain. Thanks eBay!