Stude Light

Photos of the S-462, EM-356 and 720-C respectively

I would worry about contaminating the fuel line with any residual Evapo-Rust or the water flush. Evapo-Rust is water soluble so, after allowing it to linger in the brake line for a day or more to do it's job, then you would need to flush it out with water, then get all the water out of the line. It would take a lot of purging with dehumidified air/nitrogen or pulling a vacuum on the fuel line for 12 hours before I would feel comfortable that all the water is out.

That certainty makes a difference. So you are looking for a 1920-1924 Studebaker Light Six starter which is a Wagner S-462, a Wagner EM-356 or a Remy 720-C.

The 1923 Special Six used the Wagner S-400 (p/n 105402) or the Remy 723A (p/n 105959). In 1924 the Wagner S-400 was superceded by the Wagner S-503 (p/n 107025) but the Remy 723A did not change. So, any of those starter models should work for your car. The Wagner S-462 (p/n 120106) and EM-356 (p/n 43613) were used on the Light Six model and does not interchange. I would take Mark’s advice above and also post in the Studebaker section. You can just link to this post if you want.

You said 1920s so I'll give you my two affordable early 20s cars. First off, the early 1920s cars are going to be two wheel brakes so you plan ahead for braking - I refer to them as my 40 mph cars with 25 mph brakes. Both my cars were more typical for an average man to own than the cars you mention but still cost 3 times more than a base Model T, but you also get what you pay for...more power and sturdier. 1921 Oldsmobile Model 46 Touring with the Northway 209 V8 engine with 246 cu in and 58 hp. Has a leather faced cone clutch so it is more of an on/off switch and doesn't like to do a lot of slipping. Although it has a 3 speed transmission, I typically just use 2nd and 3rd as fist gear is geared for creeping. It will drive down to 5 mph in 3rd. Lots of torque and with a 2 stage 2bbl carb, it pulls this 7 passenger car up hills easily. The clutch has a brake so you depress it just enough to release it and I just time my shifts and don't double clutch often. The key is that you don't rev the engine much before shifting and it drops right in. Feels like a heavy car when driving and drives nicely up to 40 mph. Steering is heavy and the fan on the engine is rather loud at cruise. 1923 Studebaker Light Six Touring with a 207 cu in I6 engine that makes 40 hp. The plate clutch is easy to modulate but also has a brake so you just push it enough to release it otherwise you'll grind gears. Like the Olds, you don't rev the engine much before shifts and it'll drop right in. This car feels much more nimble than the Olds and steering is much lighter. It has a decent amount of torque so, compared to a Model T, it accelerates much better and will hill climb well at wide open throttle. Although it'll go a bit faster, mine is most happy at a 42 mph cruise. Both of these are open cars so are very comfortable for summer driving. With the side curtains on, they stay comfortable inside down to 40 degree ambient temperatures.

Barge All Purpose Cement is some good stuff. I’ve used it for a number of different projects and materials with excellent results. It is a type of contact cement.

Great improvement! Thank you.

Oh. And these are the procedures for 1939 Cadillacs. The LaSalle (39-50) would probably be the closest. The basic premise is the same along with steps and process. Just use the Oldsmobile specs provided above. That J-720 tool is just an Allen wrench.

I was looking for some entertainment, so I took my 1939 LaSalle to the local Cadillac dealer for an alignment. First, they couldn't figure out how to start it....it's a push button start like most of today's cars. I had to drive it on the alignment rack as no one knew how to drive a three-on-the-tree. Then I took my manual and a couple of SAE wrenches I brought and talked them through the procedure - basically coached them through the process. The result....yes, it was highly entertaining. It looks like you got the specifications you need so hopefully you can find a shop that has someone either knowledgeable or a quick study and willing to learn. Your Olds has the same set up as my car and it's pretty simple to adjust caster, camber and toe with just a couple of wrenches.

Your photo shows a casting part number. For the engine serial number, this is where you need to look - on the block just above the starter, facing up. Should be EMxxxxxx

I left these with Robert Kapetyn in Joliet, IL about 5 years ago. He may still have them. He is @rbk on this forum.

I found my first vintage car in an old detached building/garage that was located across the street from the primary residence. Unfortunately I did not get an exterior shot but it was in need of repair, although the roof was still intact. The owner of the house was a friend of mine and the car came with the house when he purchased it some 15 years earlier. It turns out that the previous owner had also "inherited" the car with the house when he had purchased it. So, the car had been sitting in that old building for at least 30 years. The first owner of the car lived just 10 miles away so it had been in the area it's whole life. When my buddy put his house up for sale I made an offer on the car and purchased it. Then started an all out restoration. Photos of how I found it.

The Corvair was made at the Willow Run plant in Ypsilanti, MI and, since this show is just a few miles from that plant in Ypsilanti, the show organizers welcome the Corvairs. I had my 1921 Oldsmobile Model 46 there along with @rustyjazz1938 with his 1922 Model 46 - both V8 cars and two very different engines that Olds sold at the same time. Fun day!

It would have had a sleeve. I’m not sure how it fastened to the metal skin or wood frame of the body as the 1923 Light Six was an all metal body, as pictured. I imagine it had a bracket or flange with a screw that held it to the wood frame. The bow saddles/supports were purchased from a third party vendor so were used across other brands with the size determined by the number of bows and mounting height on the body. You will typically find the saddle manufacturers part number on it somewhere. The ID of the sleeve should be around 0.77” to easily accept the 3/4” support “pin” that locks in. Here is a picture of my Olds that has a wood body but the interior is firmly attached so I can’t see the inside attachment. The wall thickness of the sleeve is 1/8”.

BTW - I did most of my own nickel plating with a Caswell kit. Definitely worth it if you have more than a few parts to do. This post summarizes the process

Nice Job! Yeah, I would suggest alcohol.

The Big Six had a 354 cu in engine with a 3.875" nominal bore with a 5" stroke. Generally your machine shop will fit the bore to the new pistons using the clearance specified by the piston manufacturer.

Rusty, My bold and pompous statement on acceleration was based solely on opinion with absolutely nothing to back up my claim 😁. Yes, a race is in order!

The Ford Piquette Plant Museum is a great historical building with a super display of early Ford automobiles and a few other brands. It does an excellent job telling the story of the development of the Ford automobiles and company - well worth the visit. It is also a great rental venue for weddings and parties. A recent addition (1903 CDO on loan from the RE Olds Transportation Museum) to talk about the influence that RE Olds and the Curved Dash Oldsmobile had on Ford

Maybe need some more information. There are the wood bows themselves and then the metal brackets that the wood bows go into to form the top assembly. Then there are the mounts in the body that support the top assembly Then there are the support brackets that hold the folded top Are you looking for what is under the material that covers the bows or what is behind the seat cushions? I might add that a more descriptive subject line would also help those using the forum. Example: "1923 Big Six Touring - Need help on bow support design". "1923 Studebaker" doesn't help too much.

The problem is that they only come chrome plated which sticks out like a sore thumb on a nickel car.

I have a Wagner EM 355 generator (with attached original Wagner coil) and a Delco Remy distributor that came off a Light Six engine. The generator is in nice shape and will motor with six bolts applied. The distributor turns freely and looks to be a later Delco Remy that was a replacement or modified to fit a Light Six.. $125 for the generator/coil $50 for the distributor, rotor and cap

These are the rivets I used but it will depend on the hole size and metal/hide thickness for your car https://www.ebay.com/itm/155776551932?epid=1229692555&hash=item2445018bfc:g:LsYAAOSwq~Jk~kIS&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4IK%2Bd4K%2BJoe8VMKGi%2By2jK1OibhErUbYWRAimgUzasDI%2FBJqgup%2BeC%2BQ%2ByeVnnWjqrvYXn%2BEsYVYX6Vb8vtndxSkJmas1KzA27Z%2Bp6aNSrwPueHHKyAoEzr%2FCEJ02gMge8vTK0RvwZEqIMrEbeuA%2Bg3uulUSgIAcBZE%2B7S2JQjH9EA0C%2BCO7EvUdSrrJPKL4TdNsm6LZYtMJb5hsZgG7Gyzr5bB719sVCEfhhC2ohi3LMWc6ECtNwwcH9DOVVXIyR6rtEH8z7uqkrH3RZU42vuYkV9pFwLa0qmfPow4isLQc|tkp%3ABk9SR76fx_LVYg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233352922864?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Ew3O0sQRSQS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=EWexZXPfShm&var=533308000424&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS 12/13 oz . Probably the 48” x 18”

Cone Clutch: Here is the work I did on my cone clutch. Your Dyke's manual has a section in there too that describes the shape of the leather. Part 2 Once the clutch settled in after a few drives, it has worked very well. I'm not that far away and you are welcome to use any of the tools, the giant can of Barge cement (which I'll never use up) and the rivets, if they are the right size. I can also talk with Rusty and see if he is willing to part with another strip of leather so you don't have to hunt around for it. Let me know. Scott