Jump to content

Stude Light

Members
  • Posts

    1,112
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. Just like instructions say....When you fold the top you pull the material from between the bows then roll it up and lay it between the front and rear bows then slip on the boot. Works great. Leaving it folded between bows will damage the material as to bows rub it. Scott
  2. If you don't get any replies, you could try in the General or Technical section of the forum as there is more activity there and many of the issues with this vintage car are common to various makes so you don't necessarily need to be a 1916 Studebaker expert to help mechanically. This is the right spot though for verbal help specific to your car. Scott
  3. More than likely you'll need to make the carburetor inlet tube. They are usually rusted away. Scott
  4. That serial number identifies it as a 1913 Model 25 SA 4 cylinder, 25 hp, 102" wheelbase car. Range for that model/year is: 301,501 - 315,611
  5. Not sure if this helps but this is the side lamp p/n listing for Studebaker Models 20 & 30 and 1913-15 Scott
  6. The Studebaker is a Light Six 5 Passenger Touring Car Updated: I missed seeing that in the original post
  7. Just over a month away .... one of the few pre-war driving tours and shows of 2020. Still time to register.
  8. You may already be planning this but I have three suggestions before starting: 1) Drop the oil pan and clean it out 2) Dump the coolant and temporarily fill with water 3) Drain fuel from tank, pump and carb and fill with fresh stuff Scott
  9. I’m putting my money on Michigan being a better home. Great cause. Scott
  10. Page 6, first post has a close up of the steering wheel controls. Page 7 about half way down has the picture of the linkage rods for a Right Hand Car (RHC) with Magneto.
  11. Your Special Six was originally a 6 volt system. Some people put in an 8 volt battery to help spin the starter faster, usually because the starter could use rebuilt or at some point someone replaced the original 00 size starter cable with something from Autozone made for 12 volts (like #4 or #2 gauge) and it just doesn't have the ampacity needed. The problem with an 8 volt battery is that the generator was designed for a six volt system and trying to pump out something over 9 volts to keep it charged becomes difficult unless the engine is constantly running at a high rpm. Keep in mind that most batteries have a maximum state of charge greater than 2 volts per cell so your three cell 6 volt battery should read 6.3 volts or a bit more when fully charged. The charging system usually runs at 2.4 volts per cell which is 7.2 volts for a 6 volt battery but the generator has no regulator and the voltage is regulated by an adjustable third brush in the generator which is usually set in the middle and will under charge at idle and over charge some at cruise speed. With this type of set up, most folks would run their headlights during long periods of cruising to prevent an overcharged battery. My suggestion is to first check for proper size battery cables (0 or 00) - they should look like welding cables and all the connections are corrosion free. Then move on to starter if a 6 volt battery won't crank it. Scott
  12. Original radiator to shroud screws are a 10-24x1/2” slotted countersunk screw with a lock washer and square nut. The throttle levers are common to a number of makes....I would keep a look out on eBay. You want one as pictured. There are a number of throttle pedal linkage setups. I recall this car originally came with a magneto but may have been converted to a distributor. I would need to know which setup you have and I can get you the schematic.....it may already be in the 15 pages of posts. If you want to PM me your email, I’ll send you info on the fuel pump. Scott
  13. That ball stud (32038) has a similar looking part common from 1913-1918 but a different part number... maybe just a simple dimension but may also be a different taper. You can always try one if you find it.
  14. Matt, I suggest Permatex #2 for your head bolt application. You want something non-hardening so you can re-torque the heads without bolt leakage . I know all the Flathead Cadillac owners use this as the headbolts go into the water jackets on that application and requires a couple of re-torques during break-in as the gasket relaxes during the first few heat cycles. The Blue Loc-Tite will break its seal once cured. Permatex #2 would also work for the oil pan bolts but less critical to have a non-hardening sealer so the Loc-Tite or Aviation Permatex would work just as well since you shouldn't have to re-torque. Scott
  15. I experimented a bit and most of my aluminum or bronze castings I ended up sandblasting which left a flat sheen that would pick up dirt from every source, even the slightest touch. I then filled my blast cabinet with steel shot and blasted all the bronze and aluminum parts. It seemed to recreate that "as-cast" surface finish, closed up the pores and had a nice satin sheen but also gave a little gray back into the color. Then clear coated with Eastwood Diamond Clear Satin. After 4 years, it's held up well. Picture of the engine below is after 2 years. I steel shot blasted the carb (after plugging all the holes) and you can see the results close up - maybe too clean for you needs. I have also had good luck with an ultrasonic cleaner but it's only so big (clutch housing from my LaSalle - had to flip it once). Scott
  16. Hopefully the information in this thread will help you get the car on the road again. Happy to answer additional questions. Scott
  17. Doesn’t have a dip stick? Based on later model Studebaker engines, I would suggest 6 quarts but I have no manuals that far back.
  18. I took the liberties of posting in the CLC Forum (more specific traffic). See response so far. http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=161406.0
  19. AER has a Facebook page in addition to the website: https://www.facebook.com/AERrebuild/ Advanced Electrical Rebuilders 16574 S Bauer Rd, Grand Ledge, MI 48837 jason@aerrebuild.com (517) 345-7272
  20. UPDATE - Got ahold of him. Jason is fine, but says past few months have been crazy busy. He just recently found that the website was down and is working to get that resolved. Scott
  21. I've tried emailing and texting Jason several times the last month or so and have had no response. He typically checks in on the forum. I'll chime back in if I get a hold of him. Scott
  22. This also serves as a reminder that “ownership” should be replaced with “custodian” when it comes to our possessions. Personally I try to be a good custodian when it comes to historical items in my possession currently. Other stuff....I may just be a user. I’m not sure what new items I own today will be sought after in later years as a desirable antique. Scott
  23. Top photo left to right: 1923 Olds Model 43 Brougham, 1923 Studebaker Light Six, 1922 Olds Model 47T. Foreground is a Ford Model A
  24. I finally got my 1939 LaSalle on the road after an engine, trans, driveline and chassis rebuild. I spent a lot more money than I wanted to, but my desire was to have a reliable touring car that I could put plenty of miles on without worrying what was going to fail next. That's when I looked at the tires. The bias ply wide whitewalls looked to be in really nice shape and they were barely worn, but from the date code it appeared they were made sometime in the early 1990s. I've read plenty of stories on this forum and have my own RV and trailer tire stories to tell and that is: Beauty is only skin deep, it's what's on the inside you can't see that counts (wait! seems I've heard this somewhere before). Anyway, I figured I would have to go spend even more money and buy a new set of bias ply whitewalls before I started to enjoy the car. Before spending another pile of cash, I decided to seek some advice first and reached out to Matt Harwood. I don't know Matt but I met him briefly at Hershey last year and, from his forum posts, he seemed like a pretty stand up guy, plus I knew he has been around the block a few times (no pun) with this era car and loves to drive his '41 Buick. He was gracious enough to respond and offered up his experiences. From that correspondence I decided to check into radials and reached out to Diamondback Tire. The guy that answered the phone was Bill Chapman. What a nice guy. He spent a lot of time with me on the phone and explained how their Auburn Deluxe Radials might be a good choice for my car. Sure, he wanted me to buy his product but it wasn't a salesman pitch but rather, some info about the design and some of the issues they had specifying and getting dimensions correct. I needed a 7.00 x 16 but he only had the 7.50 x 16 but since they were made a little undersize would probably be fine. In the end I decided to buy a set and he threw the beauty bars in for free. Then I talked tubes...he's like "no, no...no tubes. Your rims will accept a tubless tire no problem. Tubes will only give you grief." Okay, we'll see. I already had all the car's alignment specs all dialed in, got the tires swapped out and balanced (it did take a lot of weight - put most on the inside but still needed some outside). Wow, what a great looking tire (has the raised beauty bar and pie crust edge) and what a great ride! Compared to the BF Goodrich Silvertown bias plys that were on the car, they tracked a lot better and the ride quality was much better. Truly impressed. And yes, they all hold air fine. I have a few hundred miles on and really enjoy driving it. This reads a bit like an advertisement but I really just wanted to share my experience and, rather than a PM, I want to thank you Matt for the great advice that steered me to abandon the bias ply and go with radials! Very happy I did. Scott And as a side note, I did give away my old tires to a new owner rather than filling up the landfill - not being used as a driver.
×
×
  • Create New...