Stude Light
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Posts posted by Stude Light
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Push in and twist and it should pop right out.
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Fit a 1936-1948 Cadillac Flathead
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Speaking of supercharging a flathead….this is the 1936-1948 Cadillac flathead design with a little extra boost 😁
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Be glad you don't have 26 studs and an aluminum head. A little corrosion on the studs and you are in for it. I had to use every screwdriver and pry tool I had.
Once I got the head off I had to pull all the studs that have been in place since 1923. First penetrating oil, then heat.
Then let cool and double nut as hard as you can and get the flats aligned for a 6 or 12 point socket.
Then get the Vice Grips out and lock them on as hard as you can.
Now hit it with the impact gun while simultaneously smacking the Vice Grips with a sledge hammer.
And after several hours they all came out. Didn't break any nor pull any threads and they all terminate into the water jacket!
Now with head bolts you don't get to heat down close to the block but you at least get to break the bolt-to-head bond individually. I had to beat the hell out of the aluminum head from the piston side while tapping in all the wedges to finally break it free.
BTW - if you snap off a head bolt flush to the block, just drop a nut over it and MIG weld inside of the nut to the top of the sheared bolt. Hit it with an impact while still a bit warm and it'll come right out.
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If you want a period correct look then 1/0 or 2/0 cloth wrapped cable from Rhode Island Wiring. The also have the correct positive and negative (yes, two sizes) solder-on terminal clamps. I have had no issues using a little soldering flux (like you use for copper pipes) and heating the unit as an assembly until get good solder flow. There is a little melt back of the insulation (maybe 1/8" - 1/4") and you do end up with a little solder down the stranded wire so it may not flex that first inch. I use a slight wrap of cloth electrical tape to finish the look.
A few have commented below about rosin core vs acid flux. If you run marginal heat the joint will retain some of the aggressive flux and may lead to corrosion down the road. I heat the joint up hot, fill it full of solder and boil out any residual flux. My problem with rosin core on a large joint like this is the temperature has to be in a certain range to get the entire joint melted without burning the flux which then causes poor connection.
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Oldsmobile introduced their 4 door phaeton in 1940 and only sold 50 of them. It was their first 4 door convertible to have roll up windows (and removable B pillars). At around $1500, they were their most expensive car in the line up and were discontinued after the 1941 production of 125 cars. I'm guessing prestige as far as ownership - at such low volumes you were the only one around with a phaeton.
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Wow. You guys are harsh on the styling. Granted, the front end is pretty plain jane but no worse than many of the early 1960s cars. Nothing near as bad as the snearing 1959s.
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58 minutes ago, rjp said:
I would be glade to get that from ya if you're willing to part with it. do you have any of the other linkage that goes up to the vent door?
No. That is all I have.
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Sorry for the slow response - holiday stuff taking extra time. This is what I have
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5 hours ago, TAKerry said:
Can someone please post some pictures of a bias ply tire beside a radial? I hear so many times 'the car looks fine except for the radial tires'. Do they really look that different? Or is it just a bias against radials?
These are the bias ply tires I took off my 1939 LaSalle
This is the Diamondback Auburn Radial I put on
Very similar look and tread pattern. They run at 45 psi so you don't get the "radial bulge" at the ground contact patch. This also reduces the higher rim loading that is typical from a radial due to less flexing of the tire at the patch. Better ride, better handling, better wet road traction and no tubes. I set the car to factory alignment specifications and it tracks down the road - hands off the wheel.
The downside is that the rims were designed for bias ply which spreads the load from the tire flexing at the contact patch to more of the rim. The radials will impart higher loads on the rim as the load is more centralized at the contact patch but, as mentioned, the higher pressures do help to reduce that load some, however, you still become the wheel test engineer. Being an engineer myself, I did talk to one of my wheel engineer cohorts when I made the switch and we looked at some loading numbers....I'm not concerned but I do check my wheels for cracks each season.
Scott
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One like this? The screw type? I know I have a spare screw assembly (p/n 48525 in the photo)
This is the other style.
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Unlike gasoline vapors, which has a very limited range of combustibility, hydrogen is explosive across a very wide range. LEL and UEL stand for Lower Explosive Limit and Upper Explosive Limit and it's between those two ranges that vapors explode. In reality gasoline has such a tight range that it is hard to get it to ignite unless just right*. Hydrogen gas on the other hand can explode across a huge range. There are lots of sparks inside of a gas tank from static electricity and fuel pump motors but the mixture is always over rich. The probability of exploding a battery is so much higher whether the spark is internal or external.
Here are some LEL and UEL numbers
Gasoline: 1.4% - 7.6%
Hydrogen: 7% - 77%
Acetylene: 2.5% - 100%
Ethanol: 3.3% - 19%
* Many may disagree with this statement since their experience is that after pouring gasoline on the ground and then bringing an ignition source near it and you get a big fireball. But that's because they have a constant flame and pass it through the entire range of gasoline vapor and it only ignites once they hit that very short critical band. If you just had a single spark it would be difficult to find the correct location. Not so with hydrogen or acetylene as anyone with a torch knows.
Doing as suggested above and keeping any spark away from your battery is very smart to do. I think we all may be guilty of being careless, especially with those battery maintainers.
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On 10/30/2023 at 12:11 PM, rjp said:
Iam working on a 1923 Studebaker special 6. Iam looking for maybe a pattern or possible purchase of the friction pads on the spark and throttle levers up on the column. What would be a good material to make them out of.? Thanks. Would they be the same as any other car? Roger
Those little friction pads were made from bakelite back in the day. Any decent black plastic should work but not something too slippery. For instance, I wouldn't use polyethylene. Nylon 6/6 maybe? Many car manufacturers used the same levers - they weren't manufactured by Studebaker.
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For Special Six and Big Six Touring Cars
Roadster would be a bit shorter.
I walked the entire flea market at Hershey this year which took 3 full days to walk at about 8 miles per day and only found one of them. It happens to be the same one for my 1921 Oldsmobile - about 1-1/2” taller than the ones on my Studebaker Light Six.They measure 9” on the inside dimension
These were purchased by Studebaker from a third party supplier that made them for other OEMs. They are a number 439 (cast into the back side).
A friend found one at Hershey last year (2022) so the one I found this year completes the pair. I watched eBay for over a year and also posted in the Wanted section in this forum but had no luck.
It may take a long while but one (or a pair) will eventually pop up.
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1 hour ago, m-mman said:
While there’s no evidence of burning, I’m thinking about relapping the valves. It would give me some better views of that area.
A subtle problem. The most difficult to uncover.
This is a good idea. A crack in an exhaust valve seat would probably be noticeable after a good lap, thorough cleaning and using a magnifying glass. That would also explain the block check fluid.
You could also install your head without a gasket to verify the above theory by @Hans1
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In any engine rebuilds or when diagnosing cooling issues I always, always, always just start with water only. I will usually add No Rosion to the water as a corrosion inhibitor and lubricant.
I do this for a few reasons:
1) Water is cheap so if you lose some or have to dump it no problem (plus it isn’t hazardous to the environment)
2) If you do get a leak or overheat it isn’t going to mess up your paint. It is so much nicer to clean up.
3) Water is less viscous and has much better heat transfer properties than 50/50 EG so you pick up almost 20% improvement in cooling capacity.
Once I get everything sorted and tested for a while, then I’ll add in the EG if desired. My early cars just use water and No Rosion just because they cool better.
Doing this may also give you another data point if it greatly improves your cooling problem. I think you are getting good advice from a diagnostic perspective.
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Here is an explanation and shows why you measure at the front and rear of the tires.
https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/toe/
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3 hours ago, Steve Moskowitz said:
From my experience, nickel is a far bigger pain to keep shiny then brass.
Really??!! Brass will start looking tarnished after 6 months just sitting in your garage. You need to be polishing on it within a year to avoid a lot of work. My nickel car....after 6 years I decided it was at about 80% luster so I gave it a light buffing with Flitz and it was like jewelry again and it didn't take much effort.
I personally prefer the buttery look of nickel over the bluish chrome color but chrome is a better plating (harder and doesn't tarnish). Many folks don't realize that to chrome plate you start with copper, then nickel, then chrome so it is just one more step after nickel plating. All the work and cost in plating is in the preparation and polishing, not in the plating itself.
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Below is what I'm referring to for a torque pattern. This particular one is for a Cadillac Flathead V8 but gives you an idea of a pattern to follow as nothing exists for an early Studebaker. The idea is to keep from warping your head and getting a better seal.
This is the aluminum head off my Light Six after a light mill cut. If you look closely there are a couple of areas filled around the ports
And the gasket after applying Permatex Copper Spray
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I would have the head surfaced. It doesn’t cost much and will give you a better sealing surface. First, check for any erosion around the water ports, especially if it is on the gasket sealing surface. If you find any, it would be best to clean up (sand blast is best) then fill with a good two part epoxy (JB Weld?). After surfacing, any of those pits will be filled and flat and seal well.
You should do the same on the block side around those waterports. Use degreaser and a small wire brush. Fill with epoxy. After it cures take a file and knock down the high spots and block sand it flat.
As for the gasket, no sealant is necessary although most folks, including me, would spray some Permatex Copper on each side of the gasket prior to install. It is primarily for improving head transfer but also provides a little improvement in sealing. The soft copper conforms to the surface and provides the seal.
Your next question may be torquing the head down. Do it from the center studs outward. Start by snugging, then keep following a center out pattern (center, then next each side of center and so on) gradually increasing torque. You probably don’t need more than 50 ft lbs max.
Important- after running the engine the first time, let it cool and retorque the head using the center out pattern. After the first couple of drives, retorque again (cold). Then maybe one more time after some more driving.
Scott
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You make get lucky with your request but doubtful. The original fasteners were nothing special with regard to material and hardness - they were studs and nuts. Today's Grade 5 fasteners would be more than adequate. You could always move up the Grade 8. I would start with Grainger or do a Google search on thread size, pitch and length. Otherwise a threaded rod works too.
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@mrspeedyt. Looking at your signature - I thought the HAL2000 was an early prototype that was quickly replaced by the HAL9000 system.
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Background:
I decided to straighten the bores on my 1923 Studebaker Light Six and replace the original 4 ring cast iron pistons with new aluminum ones. (Note - It is running standard bores with about 0.005" taper currently, also has ring spacers to correct ring land wear on the two compression rings). A couple of people have had piston failures over the years and the result is not pretty - basically destroys the block, crank and things like starters, generators and distributors. Replacement blocks are far and few between and usually come with a car attached to them. I want to enjoy driving the car without worry of this happening to me.
Problem:
I contacted Egge to get some new pistons made. The problem is they call for 0.6877" diameter pins (11/16" nominal) and my piston pins measure 0.7187" in diameter (23/32" nominal). Who came up with 23/32"? All info suggests that Studebaker originally used 11/16". They offered a + 0.003" oversize pin but not a 0.030" oversize one. 23/32" is not a standard pin diameter. Not sure why my engine has these as the bores are standard and the pistons are original (based on some others I have seen). Currently my pins clamp in the small end of the rod.
That washer in the middle has two functions - it goes in a slot in the pin and prevents over constraining the clamp load. The 11/16" pins have the slot (on left in photo below), my pins have no slot (on right in photo below) and the washers are ground flat - it relies on the clamp pressure to prevent movement.
The new pistons would probably have circlips to prevent too much pin movement laterally but would still need constrained in the rod end.
My options are:
1) Use my existing piston pins and have the new pistons fitted to them. They are in pretty nice shape. After cleaning them up, the most wear I measured was 0.0002" from center to end.
2) Find someone that could grind my current pins down 0.002" - 0.003", send them out for hard chrome then have them ground back to 0.7187". These seems like a lot of work and cost.
3) Go with the next larger standard pin size (0.0750"?) and bore the small end of the rod to fit and use the same washer to prevent over constraining. I'll lose 0.030" of material on that small end. If someone had already bored them out once from 11/16" this will be even bigger.
4) Some other suggestion.
One thing to keep in mind....this is an 1800 rpm, splash lubricated engine so it's not like building a race engine.
Looking for feedback, ideas, suggestions based on your experiences/knowledge. Thank you.
Scott
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This is the product to which I referred above
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Then let cool and double nut as hard as you can and get the flats aligned for a 6 or 12 point socket.
Now hit it with the impact gun while simultaneously smacking the Vice Grips with a sledge hammer.
This is the Diamondback Auburn Radial I put on
Very similar look and tread pattern. They run at 45 psi so you don't get the "radial bulge" at the ground contact patch. This also reduces the higher rim loading that is typical from a radial due to less flexing of the tire at the patch. Better ride, better handling, better wet road traction and no tubes. I set the car to factory alignment specifications and it tracks down the road - hands off the wheel.
This is the other style.
Roadster would be a bit shorter.
And the gasket after applying Permatex Copper Spray
A Tale of Two Dorts (1920 & 1921)
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Nate, the key to any plating is starting with a highly polished surface before the final nickel and to agitate during plating. I used the Caswell kit but your homemade system should work just as well. To fill pits start with copper plating. Certain metals require copper first. Sand the copper afterwards, plate again and buff. Then use nickel - you'll like the end product. Here is a post I made.