bigoldv8

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About bigoldv8

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  • Birthday 06/13/1977
  1. I used "Power Steering Services" for mine. Had the ratio improved, both pump and gearbox rebuilt. No issues with either. Power Steering Services - Rebuild or exchange, lifetime warranty, competitive pricing, personalized service, 12:1 quick ratio conversions
  2. Nicely done! It's very common for the original ball joints to be welded on vehicles. I believe it was a concession to speed on the assembly line. All of the replacements I've seen are designed to be bolted on in some way, but some folks will weld them if they are building a true show car. I'm not sure how it is in Finland, but generally here in the US cars are only expected to meet the requirements of the date they were built, even if restored later. So a 1963 vehicle doesn't have to have seat belts, door impact bars, 5mph bumpers, etc. which were things that were made into law later. They are also exempt from "smog" testing in many places.
  3. I believe, and it's been quite a while, that I had to make a tool to get the lower bushing out. Something along the lines of a steel cup made out of a piece of steel tube welded to a flat piece, with a hole drilled in the middle of the flat. Insert a threaded rod through the bushing & the cup with a nut on the flat end and a nut and large fender washer smaller than the bushing on the bushing end. The large side of the bushing should fit into the cup. Tighten it down until it pulls the bushing out into the cup. I found a picture of something online similar to what I'm thinking of. It's been so long since I did that work on my Riv that I'm not positive, but pretty sure that's what I did. Take a look at your new ball joints to determine how to reinstall them. Often the new ones are designed so they can be bolted on rather than tack welded. As I mentioned above I had a local machine shop (at Napa) do mine for a few bucks and it was well worth it. They did the upper shafts/bushings and the ball joints after I had them off the car.
  4. Thanks for the input! I haven't taken anything apart yet - waiting for my helper. Sounds like it won't be too bad.
  5. Yep, they do. Sometimes these things are in a supplement or TSB too. The hinges aren't complicated, but sometimes there's a trick to it that would be nice to know. I'm pretty much stuck doing this one myself. I have a good deal of experience with automotive work in general but have only done hinge bushings once, on an 88 GMC truck (and I was just the helper, but instructions for those are all over the internet). Our car came back from the body shop (3+hrs away) in May last year. Since it's basically a "done" car with new paint, nobody else will touch it. I've tried to get a few things fixed and they're all scared to work on anything body related, if there's a risk they might scratch something. Taking it 3 hrs each way to the body shop that worked on it just isn't a viable option. I was just hoping someone on here had done this and could offer a tip or two, but shy of that I'll figure it out, and probably share it back here for anyone else who needs it.
  6. Yes, I checked both the chassis and body manuals, I have printed copies of both, and did not find anything. There is info on adjusting the alignment, but nothing I could find about the hinge pins/bushings.
  7. Wow, I guess nobody has done this. I suppose I'll have to take some pictures and write it up. There are a lot of web articles and videos on hinge bushing replacement but most are on more modern/different design hinges.
  8. Door Panels = Yes, with Deluxe interior. Console & dash = No, I believe all had black vinyl applied. There are kits to put wood on everything and that is what we did on our 63, personal preference for my father. Our car had the deluxe interior so did have the wood grain on the door panels, but the console previously had the black vinyl inserts.
  9. Just remember that you have to be able to get the tool "out" once the spring is held in by the a-arm and ball joint again!
  10. You could always make a tool like sharknose did. That would probably make it a good bit easier. I was able to get mine back in with a jack - new springs in fact. I believe having enough height was key to getting them to go. IIRC I did not have the engine in the car when I did it, as well. :eek:
  11. Has anyone actually replaced their hinge bushings on a 63 Riv (or similar)? I'm pretty sure my drivers door is in need of this. I've got the parts (I think). Basically figuring on marking everything and cribbing up the door to hold it in place, then taking one hinge out at a time so it doesn't completely go out of alignment. I removed some of the old seam sealer from on top of the lower hinge to find the end of the pin, but I don't see a retainer or anything there like I would expect on a later model GM hinge. I assume the bushings are actually in the middle section (attached to the door rather than the body) since that part is what moves? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks! Michael