bb1970

I'll bet the gut selling it is thrilled. It looks like he started it off at $25.

Use a chain. Loop it through the a-arm to keep the a-arm from swinging downward.

The best way to screw up a Riviera is to chop it!!!!!!!!!!

Ed, I gave under under $350 for springs from Jamco three years ago. front- Jamco Suspension - <b>Front Suspension & Steering</b> Buick 63-70 BUICK RIVIERA FRONT COIL SPRINGS Jamco Suspension, Your #1 Source for Hot Rod Brakes and Suspension! rear- Jamco Suspension - <b>Rear Suspension</b> Buick <b>Coil Springs</b> 61-64 BUICK COIL SPRINGS Jamco Suspension, Your #1 Source for Hot Rod Brakes and Suspension! They were slow to ship them to me. And hard to get a hold of on the phone. But they shipped me a good product. Bill

I'll bet they could still make them. I ordered mine off of E-bay. They had 3 different first gen Rivs then.

Took a little autumn drive.

Throttle position sensor ?

I broke the lower ball joint free to remove and replace the spring. It's been along time since I did it but I think I took the entire drum assembly away from the spindle so the a-arm could swing freely. You don't need a spring compressor to put it back together. The drop spring are easier to get in. Seat the spring in the upper pocket and use a floor jack to swing the lower back into place. I didn't replace my ball joints. The car had all that replaced just before I bought it. And I took car not to F them up. But they list them at Rock auto. RockAuto Parts Catalog

^ This made me smile. My Riv was seafoam green. The day I bought it my wife said. "That thing is ugly. The color is terrible." That's part of the reason I changed it.

I love it!!!! I have never bought anything at that place that I have been completely happy with.

I'd like to see some pictures. I agree they look a little better dropped a bit. Where are you in N.W. MO??

I'd use it as a parts car. As stated above.

We'd love to see some photos.

You can open the doors manually by pulling the arms away from the motor. The motor is located near the center of the front bumper. It could be a relay issue. It's usually the motor. Start by taking a test light and see if you have power at the plug in at the motor with the headlights on. If you do. You headlight motor might be the problem. I had issues with mine. It was the motor. I had it cleaned up at a local automotive electric shop. They work great for three years. They stopped about two weeks ago. The clamshells are one of the things that makes these cars cool. But the are a real pain in the ass.

63-65 Riv's are great looking bone stock. But look so much better lowered a few inches. That is one awesome looking car. I really like the purple. Looks better with the wire hubcaps too.

I would say you should run a shroud. My '65 has one. You will have to remove the fan to put one in.

The insulation (or rubber boot?) that goes around the plastic piece that leads to the center vent was gone. It was letting air blow into the dash instead of all the air blowing through the vents. Anyhow I sealed it up. And I have good air flow all the way across now.

Here I am! I'll be brief. DON"T ORDER FROM OPGI!!!!!!!!!!! Just get a quality product from Clarks Corvair.

Chevy truck fan won't work. Fan impeller is too tall. It has more fins though. I don't know if that equates more volume??

Yes some. Not as much as I hoped.

Thanks for the info Chuck. I'll look at the blower switch. The flow from the driver side ball vent is still alot less than the passenger side vent. Even after removing the mud dobber nest. I'm thinking about putting a blower assembly from a 80's Chevy truck in to see if I get more airflow. The blower motor looks very similar from the outside anyhow. I don't know about the fan impeller. Worth a shot if it's higher volume. Just so happens I have a parts truck. So no $$ out of pocket.

I took the vent tube loose to see if there was an obstruction of some sort. This is what I found.