Gunsmoke

The manner in which the rear tub slopes downward and just barely matches height of rear fender is unique, and I agree, back appears to be a unique turtle back or bob tail style, seeming to have a concave end with exposure of inner sides of fenders. The windshield post appear vertical, and I also note the side of the hood seems to rise at least 2" or so above spare, suggesting a big car, LaSalle, Lincoln etc. Step plate in front as shown by dusty's 3rd photo looks about right. There were so many marque makes in the 28/29 period (prior to the 1929 crash), could be a custom roadster from 2 dozens different makers. Since the owner at the time was a Hudson guy, any Hudsons like this? Keizer31, I'm waiting?

Some additional photos. Driver side was in about same condition, needed all new lower 6", new inner and outer door skins (partial on driver side) etc. A contact in California loaned me the step plate braces so I can fit fenders correctly and make a pair. Thanks Jeff O! Good to have friends in this hobby, only shipped them 4000 miles!

A couple of photo updates on the 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster project. Was up to see the body wizard today, and see progress on his work. As shown, firewall, dash, driver side incl door are pretty well finished. Passenger side and rear still need lots of work. Estimated completion of this part of project is mid to late summer. In meantime, I am fitting brake system, fuel lines and wiring onto chassis and have wire wheels out for sandblasting. One day at a time! Secong post has pics showing work to go on rest of body.

A friend has recently completed restoring this very 1919 Hudson Touring car, shown circa 1930 next to the Inn then owned and operated by the Hudson's owner, who used the car for transporting patrons back and forth from the train depot. We are curious in the identity of the 10 year later Roadster. Appears to be a marque brand, wire wheels and a boattail rear, with sidemounts and what appears to be a RS step plate at lead edge of rear fender. Windshield posts are straight up, sugggesting 1930 or earlier. The family were well to do for the time, so anythings possible.

Cleaning up the 4 wheel cylinders for my 1931 Chrysler CD8 rebuild. All 4 bleeder passages are plugged solid after sitting for better than 60 years. Used a bent stiff wire to scrape some of the gunk out, have tried soaking in lacquer thinner, and using compressed air, and currently have filled with brake cleaner, nothing seems to easily dissolve the varnish or whatever has accumulated in them. Plan to try gasoline next. Any suggestions? issue has been resolved.

Such great news, but that's why we pay Steve and Peter that big money!

58L-Y8 said: This Pierce-Arrow perfectly illustrates what the designers were after: an unbroken sweep of the eye as it traces the hood length, all the marvelous details and ends in the jaunty spare mounting angle. Less is More, illustrated to a "T"! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. PA lovers may see this as a pinnacle of PA design of the period. But I see many flaws from my "styling" sense. Firstly from an overall perspective, the front half is early 1930's evolution, and the back half is mid-late 1930's "new style", 1933-1935 being often seen as transition years for most car companies. Ths transition is most obvious in the awkward belt line, which struggles to blend both halves with an uncomfortable bubble in the middle. I've never liked the PA bugeye lights, but that's their trademark, they only got them correct starting with the Silver Arrow. The hood side doors seem arbitrarily placed, seems they could have been centered. More awkaward is the rather pedestrian "golf club door" which seems to have been just stamped out in such a plain square. finally, the 3rd top hinge on the doors seems a poor engineering choice. It's attempt to resolve with the A pillar and beltiline is bound to fail visually. And the spare, meh, would be better and more practical in the trunk, and a removable trunk rack available for touring. JMHO Why comment at all? When someone suggests "perfectly illustrates", I think others have a tendency to be more critical than if someone uses a less unequivical term. Uniqueness and rarity don't always add up to perfection.

For the CD8 roadster in 1931, both front seats were fixed to the floor, unadjustable. The passenger side back was also fixed although it could be tilted up to get access to area behind seat. However, the driver side seat back had a scissors like mechanism that allowed it to be adjusted fore and aft by about 2-3 inches by turning a knob on top of seat back (see knob in photo above). I don't know if this setup was used elsewhere or on other models.

So I took the advice and tried all 3 suggestions. I show here one of the worst ones (actually a spare I don't need). I soaked 8 of them in Laquer Thinner for a few hours, let them dry, then pre-cooked in toaster oven at 450 for an hour or so in pairs, then put all 8 in kitchen oven at 450 for 1.5 hours. Came out clean as a whistle. I'll save the molded linings and rivets for future needs.

Not all cars from the 30's were trailer queens. My Dad worked for a couple of years at the start of the depression in 1932 on the now world famous "Cabot Trail", a scenic route over the highest hills of Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia. Being 60 miles from home, they stayed in camps at the foot of the hills/mountain they were working on (highest was about 1000 feet), and lugged their gear, dynamite etc up every day. This is a photo of base camp with a couple of early coupes, maybe Fords, Chevs. Could be back at these "public make work projects" soon!

In Nova Scotia historic plates are not acceptible for registering so you get a new "Antique Vehicle" Plate. But you are allowed to also display a vintage plate. So I made a couple of stainless steel clips to hook the new one over the trunk, and remove it when displaying the car. I am permitted to display a vintage plate only on front. Regulation changes are in the works to allow only vintage plates, expect them to be approved by about 2050!

1912 Staver, I don't think facts would bear out the statement "the loss of buying power a slice of the old car hobby households has experienced over the last 40 years". Most economists suggest society as a whole is more affluent today than ever, even if any individual may not be. The reality is that there are so many other places to spend one's money, cruises, big screeens, internet, gizmos, gyms, bigger and bigger houses, better education, flying around the world, vacations in the mountains, RV's, you name it. Present short term (COVID) drop in economic circumstances aside, lots of money out there, may not be fairly distributed, but that is called free enterprise. There has always been a small slice of the old car hobby who struggled to stay in the game and looked for a good starter car.

The traditional influences of the market place like caveat emptor (buyer beware), supply and demand, market research, what's hot, what's not, investment versus keep forever, and on and on, work well in large segments, like real estate, jewellery, artwork, new cars and the like. But when it comes to anything used, other than caveat emptor, most influences don't apply in any discernable pattern. In niche markets, there are simply a small number of buyers and sellers. Some buyers know what they are looking for (have done their research), and what fair value is. 2 exceptions are the "motivated" buyer who just has to have something, and the "uninformed" buyer" who is a sucker for something flashy or a sales pitch. Among the sellers, the same is true. "Motivated sellers" are anxious to part with their car, for any number of reasons (estate, cash crunch, divorce, space, etc) and usually set a price fair. The "over-invested" seller (too much $$$ spent on purchase or restoration) wants to get more than the car is worth. The "uninformed/optimistic seller" wants to turn a tidy profit if he can. This is typically the playing field for old car sales. In the larger context sits the supply/demand equation. Today, perception (at least) is that the demand for old cars (other than rare or highly desirable ones) is shrinking (as early boomers die off) while supply is growing as those same early boomers die off. This will naturally lead to a drop in final sale price. In a hot segment of the market however (like 70's muscle cars), the opposite might be true. There are more and more buyers now ready to retire who want to get the car they used to own or admire. And there are fewer of those cars around, and the cost to restore the ones that are around is high. So, nothing is new. Supply and Demand will always rule the market place, and in a niche market, you better know what you're doing or you will get stung, either as a buyer or as a seller.

Great advice folks, I was hoping I would not have to throw away good linings. Think I have a toaster oven somewhere seldom used, will soak them in some laquer thinner first, and when dry try the oven. Wife and I split about 8 yrs ago after 40 years, so I might even try the kitchen range, sort of revenge!

This has no doubt been asked and answered many times. When I disassembled the 12" dia brakes for my '31 Chrysler CD8, most of the shoes have relatively new linings (factory original thickness, replaced perhaps 60 yrs ago) but 1/2 of them have been contaminated by fliuds of one sort or another, brake fluid or rear-end oil after sitting for perhaps 50 years unused. I have a NOS set of molded Raybestos linings specifically for these shoes and brass/copper rivets, but linings are not drilled for rivets. (1) Is there any method that works reasonably good to dip the contaminated shoes in a solvent to remove the contaminant, such as lacquer thinner? (2), if #1 is not advisable, what sort of procedure and tool is used to create the countersunk holes in the linings suitable for riverting to the shoes. Is it just a special drill bit that is used? I have forstner bits which might do the job with care? Thanks for any advice. I'm told local brake lining fitters will not mess with Asbestos linings, and only use modern materials. Cheers.

The Orange Blossom Special was a deluxe passenger train on the Seaboard Air Line Railroad and connecting railroads between New York City and Miami in the United States. It ran during the winter season only. WoooWOoo

As a retired Architect, I should have the sense to say nothing. But I've been holed up a while, so here goes. As with everything "designed" rather than just "built", form should follow function, and that adage can apply to something as seemingly simple as a garage. If you know for example 50% of the space only needs 8' ceiling height, why go to 11 or 14, all that volume of air needs heat/air etc. First tip: keep structure as low as possible in a residential neighborhood. Secondly, if you plan to work in there, skylights are the perfect way to get superb lighting, better than any LED's. Plan the space, dirty area, clean area, bench tools, hoists, paint booth etc, where to put 220 wiring, hose bibs, floor drains, and place doors accordingl;y. Should have at least 2 O/H doors and 1 man door in case a project winds up blocking one for a period. Side windows are good for lighting (and should match style of house windows), and also offer potential aesthetic appeal out side. As for outside appearance there is no such thing as "or should I go opposite" What is opposite? If you like the look of your house and don't plan to change it, then select the look of the garage so it looks like a good partner, same roof shingles, siding, slope for roof, etc, and not have it look like somebody dropped it in there from outer space. However, if you did plan to make it looks like some 1930's service station, only go that route if you really mean it, in other words don't go half way. Finally if you plan ahead, you may save yourself a lot of trouble with the wife. A couple of benches or 2 small shrubs can never hide an ugly job. There, I knew I should have shut up! Good luck. BTW, I have no idea what a pole barn is? I have known a few Pole Cats tho! So I googled Pole Barn, and see what they mean. In the profession here we would refer to this type of construction as "post and beam" or "timber framed". I suspect the "pole" term dates form 200 years ago when trees were cut limbed, de-barked and used as is to frame up a structure with minimal dressing of the wood into lumber. Learn something new every day. An advantage of stud wall and truss construction is ease of insulating, especially in cold climates. For higher ceilings in center, a scissors truss can be used, creating a slop-ed ceiling inside. Cheers Hubbie, hope it all goes well.

I see a red 1928 Hibbard and Darrin 4 dr Packard Phaeton on internet with wide front suicide doors, small rear doors and with bullet style headlights. Rare combination, must have been designed for a tall customer.

A little change of pace, have a book simply titled "Porsche" written by Herbert A. Quint, published in 1951 before his namesake cars were very well known. Book is written in German, so I'm limited to being able to show some early photos, perhaps someone can choose to translate the captions. The first is a line-up of VW-30 series Volkswagens dated January 1936, (for those curious, the original design drawings are in book, dated 1931 and 1932). Second photo is a field full of Porsche 356's dated 1950, so pretty early in their run. Finally a nice Porsche 356 touring in 1950 through the mountains, a wonderfully timeless beauty. it is interesting that both these timeless design idioms/concepts have had very very long lives, 90 years for the VW, and about 70 for Porsche.

I have a spare 1930 Dodge DC8 transmission, not same but likely bolts up, would need lengthening of drive shaft (not a huge deal).

I have this one if your interested, has had some "dents" tapped out at some point, but should do the job. $40+ shipping, send me a PM if interested.

Looks more like a Brisco based on cowl shape.

Man, does he have a stable of interesting cars in the background. Hope he does a few more, maybe even show a few engine shots.

Since there is a Navy Yard topper, most likely a plate indicating someone important, or for a particular reserved parking spot, or maybe a motor pool number. Rare car, so I'm leaning toward someone important!

"Guilty Pleasure" I always think of as something you are not supposed to do or have, but a little taste won't hurt! Like having a shot of nice single malt whiskey from a $500 bottle, oooh so good, but too pricey to be able to enjoy more than one or two at a time. I still vividly remember getting the chance to jump behind the wheel of a new friend's brand new Austin Healy 3000 (a gift from his grandmother) in fall of 1964 during university days and running it through the gears on a twisty rural road. I was driving a 1960 Consul at the time, like comparing a pair of alligator shoes to the box they came in. Another time I was filling up and a guy I sort of knew pulled up at next pump with a genuine mid-sixties red Cobra 427, I commented on what a great car they were. He said "want to take a spin around the block". Talk about a rush. So "guilty pleasures" should be not something you can achieve on your own, but something you just get to have a taste of now and then. Haven't had one for a while, maybe it's time to start looking again.