Gunsmoke
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Posts posted by Gunsmoke
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By 1931, the "reservoir" was part of the master cylinder unit and the passage to the piston/cylinder area is internal, the unit has a vent on top of the filler bolt on top of reservoir as shown here (I have installed a temporary modern vent). I'm not familiar with models that use a separate cowl mounted fluid reservoir, but assume the line from the reservoir to the MC would be gravity fed, not pressurized. The brake light switch goes in the spare hole shown.
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Just the opposite leomara, the 5/16" input line comes from the Master Cylinder and the 1/4" output lines go to the wheel cylinders. Here's the math: 1/4" O/D lines are 3/16" I/D while 5/16" O/D lines are 1/4" I/D, as both size lines have same wall thickness of 1/32". Capacity of each line is based on pressure and cross-sectional area of line. Since hydraulic pressure is equal in all directions, only the cross-sectional area is a factor in calculating capacity. A 1/4" line like these has a cross sectional area of about .028 square inches (Pi x R-squared). A 5/16" line has a cross sectional area of .049 square inches. So a 5/16" line has 75% more cross-sectional area than a 1/4" line (.049/.028=1.75.). So basically a 5/16" line when you account for other variables (friction loss, kinks, etc) has a capacity nearly double that of a 1/4" line. That's the reason the manufacturers use the larger line to the first junction. TMI, just my Architectural/Engineering background/sickness!!
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No question for me, painting including all the prep, tape, prime sand clean, touch-up, prime sand clean, prime sand clean, then re-tape, paint, paint.....is the most difficult of all jobs. No room for error, everything is seen, and even minor stuff will bug you forever. I didn't even mention fully assemble, then disassemble then re-aassemble.. grrr. And if you want to hire a quality guy/shop to do it, then be ready to pay big $$$. I think it is the most discouraging part of a full restoration.
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Listen Buddy, you're just lucky that wasn't my Mustang!!
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I would suspect that the movie bosses wanted only the biggest names/Alist in the lead roles in their productions (just like today), and if cars were to be used, only wanted the Alist cars as well. Exceptions might be made for movies based in rustic/rural locales, or in poor neighborhoods, but I suspect most movies were intended for escapism, and thus upper crust in nature.
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A truly wonderful collection of Hollywood's finest! Cars were really a prestige item in that era, and the photography is superb.
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Thanks for suggestions Taylormade re tubing, maybe next time!. All of my brake lines are inside frame, but the gas line steps outside on passenger side behind the running board apron, and then returns inside frame near front fender.. Note also the line at rear end is armored with a full length steel spring? Your car is looking great, haven't followed your thread lately, will have to go peek.
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This gearshift boot (or large grommet for some other use) appears to be NOS or NORS, Don't know what it fits, measures oval 4.75"x5", has 2" center hole, sloped as shown, rises about 1.75". Excellent supple rubber, stamped on bottom Jr 5. $20 plus shipping to a new owner. If any interest let me know, or if you know what it fits, please let me know
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No rear quarter, but have this solid hood and scrap cowl? And this set of hood hardware?
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I've posted a thread on this for my '31 CD8, most likely similar fittings although routing may not be identical (my front passenger side requires a line across front cross member near rad shell). As mentioned, here are the essential 3 flex hoses that are available on ebay from various sellers. I also show the T-fitting/splitter for rear axle, and the 4 way fitting at front frame which receives the lead from master cylinder and directs fluid to R/L front and to rear. On my car all lines are 1/4" standard fittings, while line to master is 5/16" steel. The 4 wheels for mine have special cast brass fittings with double copper washers and bolts drilled to permit fluid into the wheel cylinders. Note front brass fittings slope away from wheel, part of solution to ensure they don't rub when wheels are turned sharp. A final point, I used coated steel line (copper original stuff does not meet modern requirements), but it is tougher to bend (I bought a bending tool at Princeess Auto about $20) and harder to double flare than copper, so suggest buying pre-finished lengths of a variety of sizes and brass unions. Makes fitting in tight quarters easier, and fewer home-made flarings. Of course wheel cylinders will need rebuilding, shoes attention, a whole new thread. Good luck.
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I hate seeing respectable longstanding companies being sullied on here, there are usually too many "bandwagoners". I've used Rock Auto for years for many makes, and service has been excellent always, great prices, fast shipping, any hitch's attended to quickly. As someone mentioned, usually if a part is not correct and value is not high, they simply send you the right one and tell you to ditch the other one. They are a big operation, and dealing with returns is likely not worth the effort of paying return postage, re-examining part, cleaning it, re-packaging it etc. As I see it, the original problem is with the poster telling RA he put part on car. Now how to put the toothpaste back in the tube, it was your mistake as much as theirs so be patient and maybe you will get somewhere. And others, please stop jumping on a retailer who is not on this site able to defend himself. I agree that moderators should try to screen out this stuff. AACA is not a complaints department.
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Nice period photo of a Fruit and Vegetable business in Sydney, Nova Scotia, circa late 1920's, not a scene you would find today.
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Thanks everyone for your efforts to ID the old Roadster. I'm going with late 20's Franklin like the red one above, based on all the evident cues, step plate, fender profiles, taillight shape and on stanchion, high hood line, cowl band, windshield characteristics, large hubcaps/wire wheels, wheelbase, door shape, etc. As for the "bobbed" rear-end, there are many possible explanations but those would apply to any other cars as well. While I doubt there were many Franklins in Nova Scotia around 1929/30, the location was a popular tourist area, not far from the Yarmouth/Portland Me. ferry, so car could have been from USA. Cheers, not often we stump K31.
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The white metal gears on the sending unit are "fused together" (a crown and pinion) from sitting so long in an empty tank, and pinion teeth appear to have roded away. As a result, I cannot even check to see if rod to sending unit will turn. I may try soaking them in various solvents to see if anything will free them up. May also try to disassemble the sending unit, don't think they were intended to be serviced. Not sure what Chrysler was thinking for the white metal gears? Ideally I'd like to find any workable float system that could mount to this cover. Thanks for your thoughts.
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Finished up with the rebuilding of brake system today on the '31 Chrysler CD8. While I haven't done this before, with a little help from friends and advisors, everything is now back together. Sand blasted and painted backing plates, cooked the shoes/linings, rebuilt wheel cylinders, purchased new flex hoses, made all new steel lines (with double flares) and refurbished a NOS master cylinder. Have not filled and bled yet, have a few more things to do with front drums before I fit them on and adjust shoes. I plan to install wiring harness next and make new gas line from tank to pump. Still looking for a solution to the gas gauge float mechanism for top of tank. Anyone using a modern float mechanism modified onto the original coverplate and suitable for a 6V original gauge? Thoughts?
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A bit of artistic license I guess, wheelbase on the Packard illustrated (bottom page 147) goes at about 165"-170"+. Did they ever build anything that long? I know Bugatti used one of the long ones for the first Royale.
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Are the wheels manufactured by Budd? Have a product number on back? If you provide details, size, bolt pattern, center hole, hubcap hole, # of spokes, etc, someone may have some and not know what they are for.
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Don't have a "plan", suggest you look at a couple of underhood photos on internet. also, there are usually 8-10 bolts that hold the inner firewall pad in place and also hold clamps for electrical etc. If you have the original pad it will tell you where those go. Original holes are usually easy to identify as they were punched out and are clean edged. Later hole usually have a rough side from drilling.
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This is what you're looking for Rob. I've made some inquiries, likely pretty rare.
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I've seen the front mounted RS step plates on Marmon, Stutz, and some others. So it's a clue, the estimated 135" wheelbase should also narrow the field. Overall details look more likely American make to me. Edited to include pics of 1928 Franklin Roadster and a Franklin taillight, and a 1927 Marmon with step plate. The body lines of the Franklin are very similar to OP. Also the Franklin 12-B has veetical windshield with flat bottom, not same profile as cowl.
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dustycrusty wrote earlier "Based mostly on that high-riding taillight, I think it is a late 1920's Packard...... the low profile of the body in relation to the crown of the fenders, the sweep of the front fender to the running board, and I think I can almost see the gap in the body for the little "golf bag" door just above the rumble seat step?". I spent a few minutes carefully gauging the spacing of the wheels, using both the exposed side, and the shadows of the opposite wheels/tires. Assuming the tires have an OD of about 30", (my Chrysler CD8's 550x18" have that), and adjusting for perspective, wheelbase is about 135". 1930 Packard 733 had 134.5" WB.
Image appears to have 2 bar rear bumper with a small medallion about 18" from each end, similar to Packard and many others. There does appear to be a bright item at center of bumper affixed to top bar? The stop/tail light appears more oval or horizontal, not round, and on a post such that center of light is about 9" above top of bumper, providing room for a 6/7" high license plate. It appears there might be a fuel filler neck and chrome cap on passenger side of gas tank apron, unusual, perhaps modified by owner? The folding top appears substantial, suggesting this is a convertible rather than a Roadster. This would also make sense considering the location, a colder climate with frequent rainy weather. However, the low profile of the passenger side door suggests roadster. Note there is a chrome cowl band about 12" in front of windshield and a very high hood, which appears may have horizontal louvers? Appears dash may have something bright on bottom on passenger side. As for the larger hubcaps, not knowing the age of the car or photo, it is possible car could be late 20's with early 30's wheels. Windshield stanchions appear vertical and to have a trim piece on top edge, and bottom of windshield in a flat casting (like a 1930 Oldsmobile). Many Roadsters of this time had canted windshields. Finally downslope of rear tub and drop off before end of fenders is not a common design idiom. Lots to go on, but what is it. 1928/29 era "Marmon"?
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I agree Grandpa, Stutz was one of the cars I looked at thatb seemed to have the right proportions, high hood line, etc. But not a convertible like you show, the roadster with lower doors etc. It would be interesting to know a Stutz made it this far East back 90 yrs ago. Still waiting to hear from K31?
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I had a friend receive a car free from someone he had met 10 years earlier. It was a somewhat unique make, and my friend had a couple of them and had spent years discussing the merits of those cars with the older gent. One day the owner just said I want you to have the car and handed him the documents. He was more interested in having someone take care of it than fretting about what it might be worth. Same may be the case here. The old gent just wants to see the car owned and looked after by someone he knows. I would listen to his wife, she is probably a better read on what's up than anyone on this site. And you did say he has many stored elsewhere, so getting this one a new home with a good friend may be all the pleasure he is looking for.
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edinmass said " Don Lee designed car is my guess.........something like a Cunningham or Loco. It is Hollywood after all." . Were you referring to original post? If so, location is not Hollywood. Annaolis Royal, Nova Scotia, founded in 1604. Spent a couple hours yesterday looking at hundreds of Roadster images 1926-1931, nothing close. Packard, Franklin and a few other cars had some similar features, especially the high front hood. Also looked at some British makes, but nothing similar. Found an Isotta F with a somewhat similar rear treatment. I suppose car could be European, they were more known for unusual 1 off body treatments.
21" wire wheels for what car.
in What is it?
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I can only count 8 lug holes? Looks like 72 spoke. (a multiple of 8). If OD is 22", tire size is likely 20". I'm not sure ring goes with that wheel, without a split etc, not sure how it would be held on, may be for a different type demountable wheel type. A wheel from that period normally has a spring steel split/lock ring like this one by Budd, for circa 1929/30 Marmon (ignore Chrysler hubcap).