Gunsmoke

This was posted on local FB site, what have we here?

So as I understand this post SANDOW, you are looking for a pre 1917 (brass era) car that has been with the same owner for many years, may have been let deteriorate a bit, and which the now elderly owner is not so much interested in getting full market value, but rather is interested in finding the old girl a new owner who will give it some TLC. OK, now I understand. By the way, there are probably 10,000 other members on here who would like the same thing.

Buying your first old car can be a dream that can turn quickly to a nightmare. So often even good looking old cars (with promises from sellers) turn out to being a "money pit", even if the initial investment is not large. So go slow, find a knowledgeable "old car guy/gal" who can give you some sound advice on anything you decide might be a candidate (ideally someone familiar with the particular year/make you have in mind). If you aren't able to do a lot of basic mechanical/electrical or body work, paying for it gets pricey fast, and for some cars, parts are scarce as hell. General advice on here these days, as a newbie, "buy something already properly restored", and you will be much happier starting out, and your end costs will be a fraction of a "project car". In later years, when you get familiar with the challenges of being an old car owner, you can then consider a "project car". Just my 2 cents worth. BTW, apologize for the earlier comment questioning your post, we get scams on here too.

Anyone think DRUMBOB may be pulling our leg?

George C, you would have been better off if you listened to your own feelings, "I realize this is not the forum for a custom car.." While these types of posts draw predictable comments, they really belong elsewhere (don't ask me where this abomination would fit).

Flivverking said "Overall, I am 100 % sure ,I know one thing ! The majoritiy of vintage collector automoblies EVERY , are owned by people who are not or ,never have,or had been , involved with any sort of club or association...' Really!!! I would ask you to provide some evidence to back this up, but that would require you knowing where all those "off the map" collector automobiles are, a tall order. Personally I am not aware of even one such collector car hoarder, (yes there are a number of billionaires who own very rare seldom seen cars, perhaps 1% of all collectible cars )but what do I know? I know the Schlumph brothers got away with this for 40-50 years gathering Bugattis, but even that hoard eventually was made known (now at a National Museum in France). Quite the contrary, I suggest 99% of collector cars are available to be seen with the right connections, if not at shows every 5-10 years, and displayed or presented by proud owners who are likely members of many clubs. Long time members of this forum likely can tell you where just about every important collectible car is, if they are not sworn to secrecy or otherwise respectful of owners privacy.

I'm not sure about doors operating the dome lights. Wiring diagram only shows 2 wires (hot and cold) going to/from the dome light switch, and so I assume dome lights only came on when that domelight switch was turned on manually. When it was in off position (an open switch) there would be no way for power to get to dome light just by opening a door. For a door operated setup, I think you would need a 3 way switch (3 wire)?. Just my 2 cents worth. as someone else said earlier, electrical diagrams are for much smarter folks than me!

Appears door switch only operated step light.

Had a bit of a disaster with my 1931 Chrysler Roadster rebuild project summer 2021 up here in Nova Scotia, where proximity to the Atlantic Ocean means generally higher relative humidity year round. 3 years ago I had the frame and all running gear sandblasted, primed (ordinary grey primer), and then I brushed on black Rustoleum (Tremclad). Everything looked great and eventually I placed body on, engine in place etc. This past summer while renovating my main house and guest cottage I left the garage door open days on end for about 6 months (April thru October) as I was using a lot of woodworking gear and tools. Paid no attention to the Chrysler. Went into garage one bright day in early October and could not believe my eyes. About 50% of all the chassis was showing serious oxidation (faNCY WORD FOR RUST), and the previously "primed only" wire wheels had not a spec of primer left. Same for brake backing plates, shocks etc. The roadster body had been epoxy primed fortunately so did OK. So now I'm faced with lifting body back off and figuring how to redo the chassis, may use epoxy this time, but hate to think I have to sandblast again. And buying a good dehumidifier for the garage.

This car from internet image is listed as a 1916 Willys Overland model 86, may be same car "what is it" posted. The hood on the original post appears to slope downward from cowl toward radiator shell, in a more or less straight line from windshield to rad shell, so not sure same vehicle or same year. second photo is 1917 O/W, has similar hood line as OP.

What a fine car, and in such pristine condition, I had not been aware of this model with it's special features. I note in the original owner photos that the belt line appears to be black (darker than lower body) and matching top color, and D pillar and front upper door posts black as well. Any thoughts? The 1917 illustration shows car in all blue. Is it possible the 2-tone paint was a later owner decision? Not that it matters, car looks splendid either way.

OK fellows, "Tricyclmobile" reference aside, can we determine if this did actually belong to come old car at some point. Beveled glass lens suggests to me it was in something a bit higher class, maybe in a train berth even? Or bus? etc. Lets try to solve rather than giggle!

The original British Racing Green (aka BRG), this one showed up at our car show in 2010 in the rain, owner had driven it about 75 miles to get here. Wonderful car, about 1926 I think.

Yes, GM cars were unlockable only from passenger side front, i.e. keyed only on passenger side. However, car I believe could be locked from driver side by moving inside handle into locked position before closing the door. Then could only be entered by pass side with key (assuming all 2/4 doors were locked). I accidentally locked myself out of my '31 Chev when I unintentionally moved driver interior door handle to locked position while out for coffee years ago leaving key hanging on choke knob. Luckily pass door was not locked.

WP opined "rule of thumb is that a beam can cantilever about 1/3 of its length". Dangerous rule of thumb in my experience and not supported by normal good engineering. Any cantilever is calculated on a wide range of factors, loads involved, beam dimensions/shape (more height is always better than width) and material, tail weight, buckling implications, point loads versus uniform loads (beam may have a large point load at end) etc. In normal wood framing, a cantilever is usually limited to twice the depth of the beam/joist. and normally you want at least 4 times the tail weight/length as the cantilever (i.e. a 10 foot long 1x12 joist can cantilever 2' max.) The total deadweight loads (not including live loads)in circumstances like those being faced here are much higher than most people guess, typically several tons depending on what is above the floor, so caution is the word, leave any shoring/temporary supports to professionals. JMHO.

Like many others, I enjoy revisiting this lengthy thread every month or so, and learning a lot of interesting history, details and provenance of old cars. While the COVID CACOON may end soon, this thread I suspect will stay for a while thereafter.

WP, said "The Pierce was unique in that the metal was cast aluminum.". I never knew that, was it cast or formed? Casting fenders in aluminum would be a challenge. I understand Minerva's (Belgium) had cast aluminum doors and other aluminum parts.

We are waiting Ed (inmass)!

Most likely based on what it looks like and how it functions/adjusts, it is threaded along outer edge (otherwise would not be "adjustable".) Soak in some solvent and try to get toothed part to turn by using a large pry etc. Or find a way to apply turning force on inner piece while holding the outer piece in a vise/clamp. Once able to turn it a little it should free up. JM2Cents worth.

And my favorite pre-war dash, 1931 Chrysler CD8, a model of simplicity, adheres to the motto "less is more".

Purchased this book titled "Dashboards" by David Holland many years ago, published in 1994 by Phaidon Press, you should seek out a copy, not sure if it is still in print . Wonderful photos of about 50 dashboards (and car particulars spread over 225 pages) of some well known makes, European and American. Will post a few examples, 1938 MB 540K, 1939 Maybach DS8, 1955 MB 300SLR, Alfa Romeo 8C 2300, Aston Martin Ulster, Bentley 3 litre 1926, Bugatti Type 13 1913, Bugatti Type 51 1932, MB SSK 38 250 1929, and Rolls Royce 20 (Howdaw 1925). the 1925 Rolls fittings are wonderful, but imagine sitting behind the 1929 MB SSK! or the Alfa 2300C, or the 1926 Bentley. Vroom! American cars include Duesenberg Model J, 1937 Chrysler Imperial, Cord, Model T, Corvette, Packard, Willys Jeep, Cadillac Eldorado, Edsel, Buick Le Sabre.

8 cyl? I have internals for a 1931 Chrysler CD8 Deluxe engine, 3.25" pistons (over-sized), good crank, rods etc, (engine was disassembled 2 years ago as it had a cracked block) think same engine as '32 DeSoto, suppose parts could be shipped to you. Let me know if of any help, would ask only nominal cost to cover shipping and packaging.

BobinVirginia, thanks for posting the wonderful Video of the MB Streamliner, what superb design and engineering. A must watch for old car enthusiasts.

Peter R said "I think I should start a new thread and post the index pages of the 1921 Standard catalog so people can request info by page numbers (we are talking about 50 System and Car Index pages)." Please do, I'm the original poster for this topic and no longer have the AMBU book. Thanks.

I assume the opening in lower area of fenders is for exposed exhaust pipes? great loking fenders, I'm guessing someone wants them! If you have price in mind, send me a PM.