carmover

Larry, I am using 3076 plugs also and they work good with the Spark Plug Cover. four of my wires are arking at the plug terminal.I am using the terminals off of my old Bob's wires.What I want to do is get a set soldered and assembled with the 90 degree boot.Brillman list a set for 28 to 30 model 40 Buicks on their website.Unless someone has a better solution I am going to see if Brillman can make me a setoff off the lengths that I give them.When you buy wires from Bob's they come unassembled and you have to assemble them yourself and I have never soldered them I just pushed the wire up against the plug.Maybe if I solder the copper wire to the terminal that will solve the problem.

I got some spark plug wire from Restoration Supply and used my old terminals on them and they are arking where they clip on the spark plugs.I pushed the wire up to the round part of the terminal.I found a set of assembled wires from Brillmans but they only list for Buicks 1928 to 1930 6 cylinder model 40.Question is will they work on me 1925 model 25A if the will I want to order a set as they have the ninety degree boots and are completely assembled and this should fix my problem.I have cleaned the plugs off with alcohol and that didn't help.The car easily cranks up but has a serious miss.

Larry I can't change the setting to get a join button on the site for about 30 days as per Facebook Rules.After that I can make the group private and anyone can excess the site but only members can see the post and it will have a join button which will make it a lot more user friendly.I don't know why facebook does it that way but public groups don't get the join button just private groups.

Larry' I approved you just now glad to have you aboard.You can post pictures and make comments and tell stories .I appreciate you setting me straight on the year of that Buick I just took a shot in the dark on it.

Where is everybody at?I thought everybody would love this! we are growing daily come check us out!

Larry I put the link up there now.I would love to have you join the group! Ronnie

I just started a new group on Facebook titled Wooden Wheel Cars of the Teens,Twenty's, And Thirty's.I am inviting everyone who has one these cars or would be interested in the group to join.https://www.facebook.com/groups/662593477471244/ This Group is not just for Buicks but all cars of this era that had the wooden[ARTILLERY] Wheels.You can post pictures and stories about your cars and tours you have been on just anything you want to talk about relating to your car or cars in general.

I bought the wires last winter after rebuilding the engine and putting everything else in new.They worked fine through the summer months and the car ran perfectly until recently when it started missing.I have talked with another gentleman from this Forum that has had trouble with the wires from this supplier.These wires are lacquer coated and crack after a few months of use.they are not arking at the plug connections but on the actual body of the wire.

That is why I love this Forum! With out all of the information I get from all my friends here I would have probably have sold my Buick a long time ago.

Mark,Spraying a fine water mist on the wires was mentioned a while ago on this forum and I talked to a retired master mechanic that I know and he said that was a trick to use when you couldn't see any sparking.Last night in total darkness with my glasses on I couldn't see any sparking but could hear it jumping and the engine was running rough.After I sprayed the mist I could see where it was jumping fire.So my problem is definitely in the plug wires.

Bob, Mine are 9 mm lacquered wires.I would like to check with John if you could give the web address. Thanks Ronnie

Does anyone know of a good source of plug wires for my 25 Buick? I bought a new set from Bob's this summer and they are already arking big time.It ran good all summer and recently started to miss so I put it in total darkness running and put a light mist of water on them and they are jumping fire in several places.

I put four coats of tung oil and let them dry for 24 hours and then apply 2 coats of spar varnish.I have been very satisfied with Minwax Helmsman Spar Varnish.

Micheal, if I remember right the there is no way to adjust the shoe tension other than maybe stretching the springs a little bit.I would be cautious not to stretch it much though.

When you take the levers off of the steering wheel it is real hard to get the shoes and springs back in there.It will certainly get your blood boiling!

What are the two round cylinders on Lloyd's Buick?

What a nice collection that was!

My 1925 Buick model 25A Touring and 1923 Buick Model 50 seven passenger Sedan.

Shawn if you look closely at my pictures you will notice that on yours and mine they cut the corners off the shaft and likely installed the escutcheon on that end before the shaft was inserted.If that was the case then if the castor inserts the stainless shaft in as part of the casting process how can we install the escutcheon.If you notice on the Hildebrand pictures the shaft is not cut at the rear. I am trying to contact a Gentleman that has already cast his and installed them and see what he has to say and maybe put my fears to rest.

Shawn,I am going to get with the foundry and see what if anything they suggest.If the stainless shaft is a part of the casting process I have no way to put the escutcheon on.This is going to take some figuring out and engineering.

This means that I am in trouble here!

Hugh , The question is will the Hildebrand casting install and work properly without the ball and socket? If so I can use the snap ring method as you describe.

Hugh, The problem is that you can't remove the piece inside the escutcheon that that was factory made to keep the shaft from binding and the new casting won't have them in the new escutcheons.Also it doesn't look like you can install the escutcheon once the shaft is installed in the handle and the foundry installs or cast the shaft in the handle before you receive it from them . You can see the piece I am talking about and also notice the shaft has been altered by the factory so the escutcheon can be installed

Terry,what it looks like is the shaft is soldered on and I don't see any other lock rings or anything on it.Also the shaft corners are ground off to allow the bracket to be installed and as I said before it would have to be installed on the shaft prior to being inserted into handle.The foundry said they install a stainless steel shaft deep into the handle at their facility.also the roller can't be removed from the bracket.

When you bolt it to the door the roller is what the shaft turns in and also holds the handle in.