carmover

I need to find someone who can rebuild my start/generator for my 25 buick.The armature looks pretty good but the brushes are worn down and the roller has a large flat spot on it.I need someone whose has parts and know how and can give me a fast turn around if possible.

My 25 Buick fan hub is leaking.I put oil in it at the proper level according to the shop manual and the oil just pours out around the shaft.Does anyone Know how to fix this?

After thinking about this for a while I think this might be the problem.I have 2 fiber washers under the seat which might be raising the seat up too much for the needle to open enough.I am going to take one of the washers out and see if this helps.I cleaned the canister and checked everything and installed one of Bob's kits and tested the float and it was in good shape.The canister seems to be doing what it is supposed to do.If it still runs rich I will try these suggestions.

I bought the two carb bowls and float arms from Terry asembled everything with new needle and seat and float.I put the carb back on the car and turned on the fuel with the bowl cover off.fuel seemed to trickle in and filled the bowl to the correct level.I had measured the float level and set it to the correct height.With the fuel level up the float came up and shut off the fuel.It didn't flood but stayed right where it should be for about 30 minutes.It started quickly and ran well for a few seconds and started puffing black smoke and sounded like the choke was on.I got out and checked the carb float again and the float was all the way down and fuel was just trickling in and the needle was all the way up.The canister has plenty of fuel in it and seems to be working fine.I took the line loose at the carb and have a good flow there.I made a tool so I could take the float assembly out while the carb is on the car and when you remove the needle from the seat the fuel flows in fast.I took the plug out from under the seat and observed the needle and it was opening up like it should.I am totally frustrated.I do not have a clue.

I believe thats where it looked like it was arking.That should be pretty easy to fix.I am going to rewire the car and rebuild the switch after The carb issues get resolved.I appreciate the pics and info Rod!

What It looked like on mine were tiny screw heads with not much of a slot in them.They were still attached to the butterfly.If you are going to plug the pipe anyway I would just drill them out and discard the butterfly and put the shaft back in when you get through welding so it will look original.

On My 25 Standard the first time I took the Carb off I found the butterfly laying loose.The screws or whatever held it on had rusted off.I removed it completely and plan to plug the pipe with a freeze plug.Then It will be able to connect back with the carb to look original

My 25 Buick when it was running its best it still always had a slight miss at idle.When I had the floorboard out the other day I noticed a lot of arking going on in the start generator motor. This was down inside around where the starter plunger shaft goes in to it.I am now wondering if this could be the miss I am Experiencing.

Roger I am betting that is the same part. Mine measures app 1 3/4" long The large end the needle screws into is around 3/4". The other end has a very small threaded hole where the screw goes through the float and screws into it. The pin is 3/4 of an inch from the needle end and app. an inch from the float end.It looks identical to your spare float assembly when put together.

Here is the pics of the part I am needing.

Carbking, I appreciate the advise and would also like to compliment you on your carb kits. They are they are the most complete and accurate kits I have ever worked with.Do you have those gaskets available for purchase?

Terry, I will get a picture on here in the morning.I hope you have one as the one that broke was slightly bent and I was making some headway trying to get the needle from binding.

The float arm end is broken off on the end where the needle screws into it.Anybody got any ideas where I can get one or maybe how to make one?

I will try that Mark.Should the ball and socket on the needle have any up and down play in it? Mine has a little play but don't seem to be binding anywhere.

Rod, I checked it and I believe the problem is in the pivot pin. I took it out and it will pivot free for a little bit and then it will catch.It has a little play in it up and down.I ordered a kit from kantor and they said it would be 3 to four months before i could get it.The float is coated in super glue and is floating fine as far as I can tell.I have polished the ball end of the needle with emory cloth and tried closing the brass fitting with pliers and took out some of the playand it felt fine and wasn't binding at all.i cranked the car with the cover of and the fuel level was good and it was doing fine for a while then started to give trouble.I hope the kit gets here soon

I have been working on the 25 all day and the fuel line and valve is working fine.When I put fuel to it it cranked right up and the motor raced up and idled fine.I let it run for fifteen minutes then turned it off and let it sit with the gas on for about ten minutes and no fuel leaked out anywhere I cranked it back up and it ran for around five minutes and started to run rough and wouldn't idle I got out and the carb was leaking gas from the air intake and was coming out of the primer button.

Thanks to all who responded .I went by a Hardware store and bought a compression valve and on its list of uses it says it will work with gasoline.I also got a brass elbow fitting which will screw into the canister so the valve will be in the right place for the line to hook up to.I have got the float working properly and the needle and seat seem to be working ok. I am going to hook the line up in the morning and see if all of this works when I put fuel to it.I will let everyone know tomorrow how it worked out.

I need a fuel shutoff valve that screws into the Vacuum Canister on my 25.Mine is stripped out and I can't hook up the line to the carb. If Someone has one or knows where I can Get One I would sure appreciate it.

David where do you get the reproduction tops in case I need one? I am going to take Mark Shaws advise and coat the inside with super glue and try to use the original top.I also am going to reseal the gas tank tube.

Before I jump into the electric pump deal I think I will get the carb overhauled and try the cannister one more time.I have already cleaned the cannister out and installed a new kit from Bobs Autobillia which consist mostly of springs and gaskets.My problems all started with Ethanol and am now using non Ethanol fuel.I would rather keep the car original.I have owned the car 10 years now and have never had it running right.

There was a guy that that had a 25 buicik in the Bugal that featured the 25's that was giving him a lot of problems if he drove the car more than 2 or 3 miles at a time.He said he made a look a like cannister and put a float and micro switch and electic pump and was able to drive the car anywhere he wanted to go.My 25 is having the same problem it will not keep enough fuel in the cannister.I want to be able to enjoy this car and drive it anywhere i want to go.The switch will be covered and not be that notisable.

What do you guys think about a micro switch with a float in the vacuum tank to work with an inline 4psi pump? The float could be set to fill the cannister about 3/4 full and would gravity flow to the carb.I found a site that had Stewart vacuum tops for sale without the internals.That way I wouldn't have to modify my original top.