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Dougsclassic

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About Dougsclassic

  • Birthday 10/27/1951

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  1. Your data plate on your 37 Chevy half ton displays the plant number first, then GC for 37-1/2 ton, then the month of assembly followed by a separation, and finally the sequence number of manufacture. The plate is mounted on the right side of the firewall/cowl side under the hood with two hex head/clutch head machine screws. It is mounted vertically, rather than horizontally.
  2. Roger, I have two more of those wheels and they are in very nice condition. You can see them on my blog post Kelsey Hayes Bent Spoke 40 Spoke Wire Wheels | Resto Rods To Go
  3. Is the larger cap, the one for the 16" wheels? Is it in good condition, and easily replateable? Thanks, doug@restorodstogo.com
  4. If you can't see at least $2500 worth of parts that you can easily remove and sell quickly before you dispose of the junk, which is by far the biggest portion of this mess, I suggest that you leave her where she is. This is better going to a salvage yard. You would likely be able to buy 2 or 3 and maybe even 4 of them in nice driving condition for what you'll have in a mediocre restoration. Just my profession opinion. You are always far better off buying the best one you can find if considering a restoration project. By best, I mean including unmolested. In other words original, not previously messed with. A true professional will also be your best bet when doing the project. I use the saying "I'm thinking about doing my own dental work as I do have a die grinder and some JBweld" I've seen how it's done and looks pretty simple, right? It takes many years to acquire the skills and knowledge to do a professional quality restoration on a car. Anything less than a professional restoration will be molestation.
  5. Forgot to mention that the wheel is Chevy 6 lug.
  6. I just got two more 9 spoke General Jumbo 16" wheels. That gives me 6 so I'm willing to part with one for 1/2 what I paid for two of them which would be $150 plus shipping. 360-509-5661
  7. Sure Todd, If you're doing a Duesenberg convertible sedan, yes you'll have several thousand hours in it plus the mechanical, and upholstery. To name one specifically: Murfy bodied 1929 ended up around $750,000 to restore it. I've also done simpler cars, full spectrum. Look that car up on the internet. There is only one. Yes I played a big part of the body restoration on that car. Very close runner up: Best of show Pebble Beach 1993.
  8. Well said, Todd. Another thing I would add is: After you have decided for yourself that: "this is the car", It would be very wise to have a professional evaluate the car before you make that "Final Decision" He will likely charge a fee for that evaluation but a couple hundred dollars spent could save you thousands and even tens of, if you are getting into a serious restoration project. To restore a car, professionally, a basic average is a thousand hours of labor. Multiply that by say $50 per and you'll get some perspective on what it actually takes. Add parts and the initial purchase price. Naturally this will vary depending on the condition of the starting point and the complexity of the vehicle, as well as the desirability of the vehicle. If you think a beginner will accomplish the same restoration in the same amount of time, think again. I like to use the example of " I was thinking about doing my own dental work, but" So again I will say, Buy the best car you can find. The one that is ORIGINAL and nice, not "restored".........................................
  9. I am no beginner at rust repair and if you question that, you can go to my site by clicking on Dougsclassic. There are plenty of pictures in my blog posts there. Rust repair is not for the amateur car restorer and is seldom performed properly in your local "body shop". It is a specialized field. To see examples of sheet metal reconstruction, I encourage you to visit my site. When you get to the bottom of the pages, click on older posts. Happy viewing.
  10. Rusty_OTool has the best advice here in my opinion. I started in the industry over 40 years ago and have had the pleasure of restoring some of the finest classic cars of the 1920's and 1930's, competing at Pebble Beach etc. Most of these cars take over a year to restore in a 3 man shop. They of course are restored to a level far above your standard restoration. I like most, the advice that Rusty says to buy the best car you can afford because ultimately, you will save a tremendous amount of time and money in the long run. You can end up with a far nicer finished product as well, if done properly.
  11. Sure makes it a lot easier to end up with a crisp looking car when you start with something as you did here, that hadn't been beat up and rusted out. I always tell people to buy the nicest and most untouched car that they can to start with. The finished product usually reflects that. Other than paint deterioration and some missing parts on yours, you had a great one to start with! Nice looking car!
  12. I was always under the impression that a Phaeton was a four door with curtains instead of roll up windows on the sides. Convertible being the one with roll up windows. Is this Buick truly called a Phaeton or is it a convertible sedan? Modern roadsters have roll up windows and that's confusing to me too, cause roadsters of the 30's had side curtains.? Convertible coupes or Cabriolets had roll up windows. Anyone have the true scoop on this?
  13. What a find! I do restoration but I gotta tell you, I would seriously consider cleaning and polishing this beauty and maybe a little touch up on the bad spots at most. Find the new top material that looks the most appropriate for the car. That would be the material that matches the original as close as possible... Get her running and driving well, and enjoy her. It is sometimes a lot more appealing to see a car with the original paint even if it has some wear. It adds character and besides you'll save a lot of money. If however you are one of the recipients of some of the stimulus moneys, come on over and stimulate my economy!
  14. They offered different size tires and some of them were extremely balloon. They had 14" wheels that were 6" wide or so. Those had very balloonish tires on them. They also had 15" and 16" The 16s weren't that much larger than standard tires of the era, therefore the 16s are by far the most practical wheels and the most desirable as you can buy reproduction tires to fit them. There are no tires that look appropriate for the 14s or the 15s for that matter. You can substitute later vintage style tires on them but that's what it is, a substitute. This all started with the use of airplane tires on a 32 Ford as I recall from legend. Reminds me of the bush pilots in Alaska using big M&H Racemaster slicks on their Super Cubs with just a few pounds air pressure in the tires. They can land on tundra that is hard to walk on.
  15. 1930's Ford also sported the General Jumbo Wheels. If you can come up with the 16" wheels and hubcaps, you've got something that is rarely seen. I'd like to get a couple more 11 spoke wheels to complete my set of Chevrolet 6 lug. If I can come up with a couple more of the 11 spoke, I would be willing to part with my 9 spoke Chevy rims, with a set of caps. You can see a picture here http://www.restorodstogo.com/2010/01/general-jumbo-wheels-1930s.html
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