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Steve Hughes

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About Steve Hughes

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  • Birthday 11/06/1951
  1. Jim, Check out the paints from Eastwood company. They have a full complement of paints for the various parts of the chassis and engine compartment. There is a correct paint for the generator / starter etc. as well as the right gloss for the chassis components. Car Detailing Kit - Auto Paint Detailing - Detail Painting - Eastwood Whatever you do, have fun doing it. Steve
  2. Here is a link to a great thread on the Model T Ford Club of America forum. I haven't set this up in my shed yet, but I plan to soon. Model T Ford Forum: Pic of the perfect mouse trap for a T
  3. The heater for the Pontiac in 1931 was a manifold heater. It had a firewall mounted fan connected to a vent in the inside passenger side with a flapper door to close when it was not in use. I believe the cathedral type heater you have was a Chevrolet unit, maybe others as well. What you have is not original, but at least it will provide heat and that can be a very good thing.
  4. Thanks guys. I think 1937hd45 has done it. I had looked at the Chevrolet FB, but the cowl to windshield didn't look right. I hadn't noticed the wide hood louvers, but that also seems to rule out the Chevrolet. The 1918 Maxwell photos that I have been able to find on the internet do seem to match very well. 1937hd45, do you have any photos that you could either post or email to me that might have better detail than the ones I have found online?
  5. A friend gave me this family photo and he wants to know what kind of car this is. I said that I would help. I have been trying to ID it using the Standard Catalog, but there are so many makes it is almost impossible to check them all. I have looked at quite a few of the more common ones, but haven't been able to narrow it down. Can anyone help to ID this car? Any help would be appreciated.
  6. Here is another view of the "coupe" body. From looking at it I wondered if this was not an enclosed rear tonneau to be mounted on a demi car to make a town car or taxi. Any thoughts on this?
  7. Thank goodness it is over. This means that horrible flashing ad is no longer on all of the web pages. I hope that if the club decides to repeat this in the future they will not use the flashing ad.
  8. I concur with most of what has been said. However, those of you from those metropolitan areas need to understand that there are areas in Montana, Wyoming, etc. where the Interstate is the ONLY road to get from one point to the other. The original 2 lane highway was replaced by the Interstate and not just supplementing it. Also the amount of traffic in those areas, although still high, is nothing like it is in those east or west coast areas.
  9. Greg, A guy is parting out a 31 4 dr sedan on ebay. If you contact him, maybe you can work out a purchase of the full car. Here is a link. 1931 PONTIAC OAKLAND 4D 301 REAR LUGGAGE RACK USED | eBay Hope that helps.
  10. There was a great thread on the Model T Ford Club of America forum a while back that showed the steps a guy used to fabricate the dashboard for his 1911 Model T. This guy really did it right. I am posting a link. You should check it out. Model T Ford Forum: Finally completed a 1911 dashboard Hope this helps.
  11. If you can't find any commercially made you might consider getting solid rivets and then using a tap to form the threads.
  12. You are correct that there is no seal. There is an oil "slinger" on the crank. It is basically a flange that slings the oil into the channel that your are referring to. The slinger needs to have good sharp square edges to do it's work properly. There is a hole in the cap that drains the oil back into the pan. Most likely your problem is that the bearing now has so much clearance that there is more oil passing through than the drain hole can handle. If there are shims you may be able to remove some to take up the clearance. Use plastiguage to check the clearance. If there are no shims y
  13. Do you have any pictures of what the correct unit looks like? I have a Remy coil box and switch assembly, but the coil is fried. It would need some work as it is not in the greatest condition. It is a different style than is used on my 1911 Oakland. I had an issue with a bad coil in my 11 Oakland so I pulled out the coil and capacitor and replaced it with a 1950's style 6 volt coil and a high voltage AC capacitor like they sell for replacements in Model T coils and it is working fine. With all of that inside the original coil box it looks completely authentic.
  14. Looks like it will need new shingles, but other than that it looks to be in pretty good condition. 20K seems to be a pretty reasonable price to me. It would be a neat garage / shop for any old car enthusiast. Of course then you would need to find some old gas pumps to put out front.
  15. It has been a while since I have visited the AACA forum, so had not come across this thread until now. I am an EVANS waterless coolant dealer (full disclosure) so I thought I should try to address some of the issues under discussion. First, waterless coolant is not a panacea. If your cooling system is not working properly the EVANS coolant is not going to fix things. If, however, you do have a cooling system in good operating condition then there are advantages to it's use. Matt Harwood and motoringicons have obviously done their homework and have covered many of the advantages. Yes, the
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