Tom Getz

Have no dash light on my 1923 Model 45 Buick. Anyone know where I can get on??? Another friend has a 1923 four cylinder roadster who needs a trunk lock for his car.

Starter gears do not mesh some times, and have to hand crank engine about an inch. It must be the gear on the fly when and the starter gear do not match up. How do I file down the bad teeth on these gears?

WOW, as a new member on the forum, I LOVE the information about Buicks of my era, 1923 model 45. The information that you share is great. I tour my '23 about 800 miles per year and in the winter try to fix what I can.

I need to do a compression test on my '23 Buick Model 45. Do I warm up the engine, remove the plugs and do the test using the starter with the ignition off? I have the equipment, but need to know what compression to expect. Any and all advice would be appreciated.

I have a 1923 Model 45 and am looking for: Top irons side spark club cover Crank breather cap Hand crank hole cover Metal floor plates for floor boards (peddles, gas pedle, floor shift plate, etc, wrench to remove hub cap)

Will the top irons from a 1922 Model 45 fit a 1923 model 45 top? Where can I find the correct top material and color for a 1923 Model 45 Top? Was the original top material cloth or something else?

Does BCA offer a large decal for our box trailers? Several other marque clubs have these decals for about $25. Thanks for your help.

I am trying to find out what is correct for floor board covering; carpet, lanolium or rubber. I am also trying to find if 1923 Buick model 45's had pin striping

While driving in a parking lot at about 10 MPH, my steering wheel started to violantly shake left and right. The only way to stop the shaking it was to completely stop. There is VERY little movement on the wheel/spindle; the bearings look good on the wheel that I have off. I am at a loss to figure what could have caused this to happen at such a slow speed. This is the first time this has happened, and I tour the car about 500 + miles per year.

I have a 1923 Buick touring car and want to refinish and paint the brake drums and shoes. Because of the heat sometimes generated by the braking; what kind of paint should I use?

The engine number is for a 1917, and the title says 1917, but my friend, the owner, and I believe it is older, but we do not know what year it is, maybe 1923 to 1925. It still is a very good Model T.

It only sticks when it is in gear, and on an incline. I do not know much about adjusting the clutch, however it does not slip, and you do not have to push the peddle in far for it to activate.

Posting this for a friend: Beautiful 1923 Model T "Doctor's Coupe:. One owner for past 20 years, runs well, color black electric start, steering stabilizer, refinished wood wheel spokes, two new and two good tires, cover for spare tire, brass hub caps, running board steps, Motometer, new Kevlar bands, new muffler and tail pipe, new battery, spark plugs, fan belt,5 opening windows, very good upholstery, chrome radiator shell, 1917 license plate, always garage kept. Have too many cars, Ford has to go for $12,000. Contact the owner at: Printsinthesand327@gmail.com 910/233-1624 Wilmington, NC

Transmission unable to disengage several times on tour. I have to get "volunteers" to rock the car back or forward to be able to pull the gear shift out of gear. What do I do if I do not have any "volunteers" on my next tour?

The attached is a photo of my Father at about age 5 years. Dad was born in 1913 and also pictured is his mother. The picture was taken at the family farm in Benton, PA. Unfortunately dad is standing right in front of the radiator, which makes identifying the car difficult. Several people have identified it as an Oldsmobile or overland. Any ideas? Trying clicking on the picture and see if you can enlarge it.

The attached picture is of my father, (DOB 1913) and my grandmother at the family farm in Pennsylvania. Unfortunately my father, who is about 5-6 years old in this photo is standing in front of the radiator. Several friends have identified the car as an Oldsmobile or Overland. I am looking for help. The photo was taken in about 1918 or 1919 and is small but by clicking on the photo you can enlarge it. Please help!

I have bought turn and emergency LED signals called ELights, from The Egypt Garage, 388 Mason Road Sutie 4a, Fairport, NY 14450. Their web site is theegyptgarage.com, telephone (585) 598-6060. They cost $150 and were easy to install. They are remote with no wires, and I use one set for both my 1923 Buick and my 1931 Chevy. They are battery operated, only work at the rear of the car and are NOT self canceling. This means that after your activate the turn signals or flasher, you have to remember to push the cancel button. They are VERY bright LEDs. I like them.

I have discovered that I have three pushrods that have been "repaired" in the past. I am searching for a source 12 push rods, as I may as well replace them all not just the bent ones.

The carburetor that I have on my 1923 Buick is an after market Zenith #4512900. I am trying to find out if this would be a correct replacement for this 243 cubic inch engine. It is presently running lean, and I would like to know what is the correct CFM spec for the engine, and what would be the CFM for this Zenith that I have.

Tony, many thanks!

Many thanks for your quick reply. I would never have thought it would have been an Oakland. Thanks; Tom Getz

I have a 1923 Model 45 Buick and one of the previous owners got rid of the Marvel carburetor and installed a Zenith. It has an electric fuel pump. Has any other member ever changed out the Marvel carburetor and what did you put in its space?

I am new at using AACA Forum. This is a picture of my father (dob 1913) and my grandmother at the farm in Benton, PA. I would date this picture between 1918 and 1919. Can anyone help me identify the car. Too bad my dad is standing in front of the radiator!