tpbruce

Members
  • Content Count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About tpbruce

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/15/1943
  1. Any one have a rebuilder source for 31 series 90 shudder thermostat. thank you Tom
  2. Thank you for the info. You may be able to help Mike from England. He is looking for a carb for a 28 buick but does not know what number to look for. His posting is "any one going to Hersery". Tom
  3. Say it aswell. But is not correct for 31 large series. Correct is 10 796 or late production 10 984. Tom
  4. Mike do you know what the casting number is?
  5. Yes with the bowl cover removed it runs well enough. Put the cover back on and eventually it starves for fuel. Remove the bowl cover and the issue goes away. Thus have concluded the bowl has been shaved down too far and the float hinge eventually catches on the cover. Present thought is double up the gaskets to provide additional clearance. Just thought I look for the proper clearance thus the request for the measurement.
  6. I have been struggling to get the car running with a newly rebuilt carburator. From a long list of fixes and opinions it seems to be a float issue. Torn down two spare core carbs and found that the distance from the top of the bowl to the hinge of the float was .0885 and .0915. The rebuilt carb measures .042. Thus it seems the bowl height has been shaved down over time far more than it should allowing the float hingle to interfere with the bowl cover. Would be helpful to know what the identical distance is on a carb that functions. Tom
  7. Looking for a measurement. Need the distance from the top of the carburator float hinge to the top of the bowl. If some one is venturesome this will intail removal of the bowl cover. Placeing a straight edge across the bowl above the float hinge, holding the float in its highest position and measuring the clearance with a depth micrometer. I am desperate and this is the latest thought as to why my recently rebuilt carburator refuses to cooperate. Thank you in advance for your time to get this measurement. Tom
  8. The vechile is a 1931 buick series 90. Due to a careless upholstery shop the door handle and window handle were broken. Replacements were found. However the broken ones were set screw type and the replacements are clip type. Spent hours yesterday trying to install the replacements. The knurling on the window regulator for both is severally worn off on the outter edge. Thus the set screw type would likely not work ( and likely the reson the upholstery shop had the problem leading to the breakage). The repalcemnt handles work just find opening the door and lifting the window if pressed tightly in against the regulator. But when the clip is installed the handle moves out away from the regulator and neither will work. Is there a solution to use the clip type?
  9. Update on Exhaust Manifold repair and running lean problem. The carburator was rebuilt by Old Carb Doctor in NC, Thr Heat Riser Sleeves were installed by Bill Boyce in NY ( after talking with several local machine shops who lacked confidence in pressing in and out) and the badly cracked Exhaust maifold was welded by Charles Clemont and Ceramic Coated by Tom Sparrow of Prairie Auto in MN and new throttle shaft was carved out of stock by a local machine shop. Every one of these folks were most helpful and all the work (while not inexpense) was super. Would recommend any or all for any work required. Finished assembly of all the components yesterday and she fired up and is running. First road test will be on Sunday (have company all week end). But could not contain my satisfaction and had to report current progress. That old feeling of hearing an engine fire up after disassemby just nevers goes away! Tom
  10. While waiting for parts to be returned from rebuilders started to clean up intake and exhaust maifolds. Intake bead blasted nicely. The exhaust manifold had a heavy coating of red "paint". Very thick and lumpy. What ever it was it was tough. But the discovery under it was not good. The manifold has been cracked. The cracks are like a spider web. Several of the webs have been brazed. Other webs have not. Also there is a coating of black "paint" that requires extreme time to blast a quarter size area clean. How best to repair the cracks. Contine the brazing or "?". This is a 31 buick series 90. The flanges of both the intake and the exhaust are very flat having been checked on a surface plate. Thank you Tom
  11. Bob I was just about to inquire about the lug size after playing around with the wheels and looking for the clues as you mentioned. The lug nut are only 13/16 tall. Definitely too small. What lead me to this conclusion before your last post was that the lug when tight had at least 1/4 inch of the stud protruding. Regarding balancing. Not clear how would balance drum and wheel? You would actually pull the drum and have it spun balanced? That is a really big and heavy assembly?
  12. Sorry ID would be helpful. It is a 31 buick 90 series with wire wheels.
  13. While the carburator is off for rebuilding and I ponder how to proceed with the heat riser that has been welded up on both ends I thought I tackle the front end shimmy. Shimmy appears at 45 to 50 MPH. Never have been able to get to higher speed due to carburation issue so do not know if it would smooth out at higher speed. The basics seem tight. Very little movement when the front wheels are grabber top and bottom. Linkage moves immediately on turning wheel in or out. So pulled wheels (first time I have had them off) All lug nuts were tight but definite signs of lugs moving. Fresh metal on both wheel lug holes and the lug nuts on both fronts and less but some on rears. Question: With wheel off and inserting lug nut into position how far should the lug nut penatrate. Should it be flush with the inner side of the wheel or should it protrude beyond (as it does on all four of my wheels) In most cases the lug nut protrudes into the chamfered hole up to and beyond the square side of the lug nut which definitely does not appear to be "good" to me. So if they are worn that much is there a fix? On model A's there are inserts that fit under the lug nut that resolves wallowed out hole issues. I tryed fitting one and it "looks" like it would work. But the wheel hole is large enough to allow most of the chamfered edge of the insert to protrude beyond the inside of the wheel. After any fix for the worn lug nut holes I plan on having the wheels balanced. (spin balanced with stick on weights) Thank you Tom
  14. Mark and Michael thank you for your insights. I have put out a feeler for the book "Understanding your brass auto". Have retrived carb and sent it off to the Old Carb Doc in NC. After long discussion with him (jeff) felt he had a very good handle on the needs of the rebuid. Only problem is the time frame before getting it back. Thus in the mean while will do all possible to eleminate possibles with out ability to run the engine.
  15. Thank you both Bob and Fred. FU new gaskets are NOS copper (buick wrapper) Have not used any lubrication on exhaust/intake gaskets previously. On the Buick what is advisable?