24 Roadster

Forgot pictures.

Yes, I timed the engine as described in the book of info. This I have done many times. Which does not mean that I did it correctly this time but I have been back through it a couple of time and can't find anything wrong. Should there be dark spots around the brass contacts as in the pictures above? That is why I think there is a problem with the spark missing the brass contacts. Maybe a new carbon buttom will fix the problem.

Mayby I was not clear. The rotor has a spring loaded brush that makes contact with the brass contacts inside the distributor cap. There are carbon tracks mostly off off the brass contacts. This is what I meant by the rotor out of phase with the distributor. I agree it sounds like a timing issue. That is why I went back through the timing of the cam and the ignition and can not find any problem except the brushes (based on the carbon tracks) seem to be mostly missing the brass contacts when firing. Or maybe the cabon tracks just off the brass contacts are normal. If this is the wrong set up, it has been running wrong for 30 years. The first thing I checked was the spark plug wires going to the right spark plugs.

I have been running with a JB welded cracked block for 15 years which many people said I could not do. Found a replacement block and although car was running good, I decided to replace the cracked block. So now, I have a rebuild engine with a good block but I can not get it started. It pops and backfires and acts like it wants to crank but will not. I have gone through all timing (cam and ignition) and carb adjustments but will not start. Just looked inside distributor and rotor is firing (by looking at the marks in the distributor) just off the brass contacts on the distributor. Also, on the rotor where it contacts the brass contacts is chipped. So I assume the starting problem is due to the rotor contacting the distributor a little out of phase and compounded by the chipped rotor. Question: How do I get the rotor in phase with the cap? Is the problem only due to the chipped rotor? Will a new rotor correct the problem? Very fustrating!!! Have never had a problem starting this car. What do you guys think? 24 Roadster

Thanks for the responses. I have always used Permatex in the past but you hear all kinds of pluses and minues. I have just had cyl bores,crank and head machined, new rings and reworked valves so I am replacing all gaskets. All three felts on the mains will be replaced. From experence I know it will leak like a sieve if the felt is not installed right. Third time in 35 years for this engine rebuild but I plan on this being the last time. Thanks again, 24 Roadster

Do you guys recommend dry installation or putting sealant on the oil pan gasket? If sealant what do you use. This is on a 24 Roadster.

Here is a wild backfiring case. A few years ago I was in a parade and my 24 Roadster started backfiring. It would run OK for a while then start poping and backfiring and doing all sort of crazy things. I was hauling the mayor so not a good time for this to happen. Somehow I got through the parade and loaded the car on a trailer. When I got to my shop since it was an electrical problem I disconnected the battery. Then I noticed a melted battery cable. The cable was rubbing against the brake or clutch connections and shorting out. This is why it only happened when I stopped. New battery cable and different routing and I was back on the road. Just lucky I saw this before I looked for days for the problem. I would have never thought to look at the battery cable for the problem. Of course everyone in town still kids me about the noise coming out of the Roadster. Sounded like we were being attacked.

Its a 24 Roadster. My mistake, the counter shaft does not rotate. Thanks for catching this.

Thanks for the replies. I had actually considered the silicone idea but wondered if it would stick to the shaft and spin out.

I am using steam engine oil (grease), but I thought it was 600wt. Don't laugh but I have considered pasting a 1.5in disk over the .75in hole through the transmission and using JB weld to hold it in place and seal it. It could be removed with heat if need be. I have had a lot of success with JB weld. Even fixed cracked blocks with it.

I have got the leak fixed around the main shaft in the transmission by replacing the bearings with sealed bearings, but I still have a leak around the counter shaft. It is leaking into the bell housing. Anyone had any success in stopping this leak. Not much of a leak but sure would like to stop it. Thanks for any advice, 24 Roadster

In one of my tear downs I have lost the handbrake pawl (I think that's what its called) that goes on the bottom end of the handbrake wire on my 24 Roadster.. Does anyone have one to sell or a drawing so I can make one? I lost it several years ago and thought it would turn up but no luck. Thanks, 24 Roadster

My engine side firewall and hood are painted tan the same as the body. Is this right? I think I have seen others that the engine side of the firewall and hood are black. Which is correct? Thanks, 24 Roadster

Great,!!! Someone who understands the question. That's just what I needed. Thanks a bunch Bill, 24 Roadster

Vern at Romar is doing the babbitt work. This guy in Tennessee is grinding the crank and line boring after Vern pours the babbitt.

I need some help. I am rebuilding my '24. The machine shop that is grinding the crank and line boring mains is asking "what finish is required"? He machines engines every day but has not worked with babbitt bearings before and wants to know if there are special finishes required or is there anything special he needs to know? Is there anyone out there that he could talk to him if there are special things he needs to know. Thanks, 24 Roadster

When removing my starter / gen I did not pay close enough attention to the master link pin. My pin is made in 2 parts one shorter than the other. One side of the chain has a slot and the other side is round. What is the correct way to assemble these pins. That is, which side do they enter from? I have another chain that has a round pin and no problem there. But the 2 part pin has me confused. Can anyone clear this up? Thanks in advance for any help, 24 Roadster

As it turns out there was very little torque on the main shaft nut. The nut retainer (cotter pin) was the main thing holding the nut. I have the bearings out and will be replacing with sealed bearings. The trans was installed while doing this. The engine was not.

How is the best (maybe only) way to replace the transmission rear drive shaft bearing on a 24 DB? Does the large nut have to come off the shaft or can the gears slide off and the bearing removed? If the large nut has to come off, what is the best way to do this. That is, how do you keep the shaft from turning? Thanks, 24 Roadster

Trying to potty train my 24. When replacing the transmission bearings with modern sealed bearings, do you also need to replace the original seals or are the seals on the bearing sufficient? What did some of you do? 24 Roadster

Thanks for all the replies. I called Romar and Vern is going to do my Babbitt work. Apparently something is wrong with their email. Merry Christmas to all Dodge Brothers, 24 Roadster

I sent Romar's two emails but did not get a reply. Does anyone know what up with this?

Does anyone know where I can send my main Brg shells to get babbitt poured in them? Rogillio has given me one possible lead but does anyone know of another? Thanks, 24 Roadster

Point your finger all you want. All I am saying is my dad did it this way many times, and I have done it this way 4-5 times. Never damaging the clutch. I agree it your are not careful in lining up the clutch with the flywheel you could damage the clutch. Proceed at your own risk.

I know most will not agree with this but my dad bought our 24 Roadster in 1936 out of a junk yard. He was a good mechanic. WW2 airplane mechanic. He had the engine in and out over a dozen times over the years. The way he showed me was to tilt the engine with the front higher and line flywheel up with clutch plates.and then lower the front of the engine into place. I have had the engine out 4 or 5 times in the last 15 years using this method. Never have I unbolted the transmission.