24 Roadster

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Everything posted by 24 Roadster

  1. That's just how my father viewed DB and Ford. He beat it into my head that there was no comparison between DB and Ford. He never owned a Ford car. He bought his 24 DB Roadster out of a junk yard in 1934 for $50 when he was 16 years old. Learned to work on engines because of this and as a result he was an airplane mechanic in WWII and not on the front line. Before he died he made me promise him I would take care of the Dodge. I honored his request and the 24 Roadster is still part of the family and running great. I will make the same request of my son.
  2. I would also question if this was a 5 main brg engine as claimed.
  3. Thanks, I had the engine out so not a big deal. I wanted to clean and put new grease in anyway. How do I know when the grease is at the correct level? There is a plug on the end of the worm gear box. Is it full when grease comes out this hole? Or is there some other way to know when its full?
  4. I have run out of travel on my eccentric bushing to remove slack in my steering box. I am going to rotate the worm wheel to try removing the slack. I have removed the worm gear cover. Just to shorten the learning curve, can someone tell me the procedure on removing and rotating the worm gear? Also, when lubricating the gear box, how do you know when it is full? Thanks in advance for your help, 24 Roadster
  5. Yes, I saw that info. I also have a book that gives the spec of all DB car from 1914. (The Dodge Story by Thomas McPherson). It says the 1914 to 1917 was a 213 cu in with 32 HP. Then in 1918 and forward it list a 212 CU in with 24 HP. It also says the 1918 had an improved heaver crankshaft. But it seems to me that the HP should be the same on all engines built from 1914 to 1927 if the same method of measurement is used. Am I missing something? Maybe in 1918 they did change the way they were measuring HP. To further confuse things my dad who bought my 24 Roadster in 1934 also told me it had a 24 HP engine. I don't know where he got this figure from. Wow, I did not know this was going to turn into a bag of worms. Nothing is easy on these old cars. Thanks for all you comments, Any others are welcome
  6. Come on, Someone knows the true history of the early 4 cylinder engine. Did it start out at 32 HP and then go to 24 HP in 1918? Going to a smaller engine does not seem right. Or was it the same size from 1914 to 1927? Roger? Thanks for your help, 24 Roadster
  7. I am putting together some information on the Dodge Brothers for our local car club. Could someone send me the correct info on the 4 cylinder engine from 1914 to 1927 (CID and HP)? I am finding conflicting information. The book I have says the early engine was 32HP and 213CID. Then in 1918 went to a 24HP engine. Is this right? Thanks for your help, 24 Roadster
  8. If it is like my 24, twist the front ring (I think CCW when facing) and the ring and the front glass will come off. Then you can access the blub. You only have to twist a little.
  9. No, I did not remove the inter seals on the bearing. I should have. This makes sence because the pitch changed when I installed the new bearings. Looks like another tear down when I get time. Thanks for all the comments.
  10. The noise is not there when I press on the clutch. Only when the trans is in neutral and foot off the clutch. I have new sealed bearings in the transmission. The noise was there before I replaced the trans bearings but it seems to be louder now. That is why I wondered if this was normal. I have the proper OD and ID bearings but I wonder if it is an internal clearance or a lub problem with the new bearings.
  11. Is it normal to hear a roaring noise with the trans in neutral and foot off the clutch? I know the 90 year old straight gears are noisy in first and second but I have a roar with the trans in neutral. Over the winter, I replaced the front and rear transmission bearings with sealed bearings to stop leaks. I replaced transmission grease with 1500 wt. Do some of you hear the same noise? When in third gear, sounds great.
  12. Good eye. I have not hooked up the vacuum line to the tank yet. Yes, I do have an electric fuel pump, but I can also run off the vacuum tank by closing and opening a couple of valves.
  13. Took rebuilded engine out for a spin today. Runs great!!
  14. Took rebuilded engine out for a spin today. Runs great!!
  15. I have done all this. However, my 24 does not have timing marks on the flywheel. Must be timed by valve position to find TDC. Been through several times. However, I am running again!!!! After doing everthing I could with the ignition. I went back to the carburetor. I had already done this several times but I went back through the settting of the mettering pin and float. I found, when I set the metering pin, I forgot to back off 1/16. Although I know better I missed this step several times. Funny when I back off 1/16 there were witness marks that matched up. I feel sure my dad put these witness marks on several years ago. If I had just lined these marks up I would have been fine. Reinstall carburetor and engine fired right up. Spinneyhill was right, it was just some dumb thing I missed. Just goes to show no matter how many times you go through something, you still can miss simple things. My dad bought this car out a junk yard in 1934 when he was 16 years old. He paid $50 for it. My mother and father dated in this car. Made me promise before he died that I would take good care of it. Its part of the family. Thanks everyone for all the help, 24 Roadster
  16. I have checked the cam. I am going to the golf course. Your are right, I need to get away from this car for a while to clear my head. it will still be there next week.
  17. Yes, I timed the engine as described in the book of info. This I have done many times. Which does not mean that I did it correctly this time but I have been back through it a couple of time and can't find anything wrong. Should there be dark spots around the brass contacts as in the pictures above? That is why I think there is a problem with the spark missing the brass contacts. Maybe a new carbon buttom will fix the problem.
  18. Mayby I was not clear. The rotor has a spring loaded brush that makes contact with the brass contacts inside the distributor cap. There are carbon tracks mostly off off the brass contacts. This is what I meant by the rotor out of phase with the distributor. I agree it sounds like a timing issue. That is why I went back through the timing of the cam and the ignition and can not find any problem except the brushes (based on the carbon tracks) seem to be mostly missing the brass contacts when firing. Or maybe the cabon tracks just off the brass contacts are normal. If this is the wrong set up, it has been running wrong for 30 years. The first thing I checked was the spark plug wires going to the right spark plugs.
  19. I have been running with a JB welded cracked block for 15 years which many people said I could not do. Found a replacement block and although car was running good, I decided to replace the cracked block. So now, I have a rebuild engine with a good block but I can not get it started. It pops and backfires and acts like it wants to crank but will not. I have gone through all timing (cam and ignition) and carb adjustments but will not start. Just looked inside distributor and rotor is firing (by looking at the marks in the distributor) just off the brass contacts on the distributor. Also, on the rotor where it contacts the brass contacts is chipped. So I assume the starting problem is due to the rotor contacting the distributor a little out of phase and compounded by the chipped rotor. Question: How do I get the rotor in phase with the cap? Is the problem only due to the chipped rotor? Will a new rotor correct the problem? Very fustrating!!! Have never had a problem starting this car. What do you guys think? 24 Roadster
  20. Thanks for the responses. I have always used Permatex in the past but you hear all kinds of pluses and minues. I have just had cyl bores,crank and head machined, new rings and reworked valves so I am replacing all gaskets. All three felts on the mains will be replaced. From experence I know it will leak like a sieve if the felt is not installed right. Third time in 35 years for this engine rebuild but I plan on this being the last time. Thanks again, 24 Roadster
  21. Do you guys recommend dry installation or putting sealant on the oil pan gasket? If sealant what do you use. This is on a 24 Roadster.
  22. Here is a wild backfiring case. A few years ago I was in a parade and my 24 Roadster started backfiring. It would run OK for a while then start poping and backfiring and doing all sort of crazy things. I was hauling the mayor so not a good time for this to happen. Somehow I got through the parade and loaded the car on a trailer. When I got to my shop since it was an electrical problem I disconnected the battery. Then I noticed a melted battery cable. The cable was rubbing against the brake or clutch connections and shorting out. This is why it only happened when I stopped. New battery cable and different routing and I was back on the road. Just lucky I saw this before I looked for days for the problem. I would have never thought to look at the battery cable for the problem. Of course everyone in town still kids me about the noise coming out of the Roadster. Sounded like we were being attacked.
  23. Its a 24 Roadster. My mistake, the counter shaft does not rotate. Thanks for catching this.