pgb123

Good Day, I am asking for the pro and cons of owning an Erskine. I would like to have feedback on parts availability, especially tune ignition parts, would this car make a good, long-distance tourer with medium size hills that are not a 90-degree angle, service manuals, just general over all feedback from owners what they like or dislike about the car. Thanks for taking time to respond to my inquiry.

I removed the switch and I think there must have been a clip of some sort to hold the cylinder in place. The other issue is that the cylinder wore out the brass groove for the igntion part of the switch. The switch play wore down some of the brass wire connections as well. I found more brass fillings then steel. I am not the greatest computer user and did search ebay. Gary Wallace, who is an early chevy parts supplier, and I have done business in the past. I did not know that he had an eBay store. I finally put together the correct wording in the ebay motors search and up came a restored switch from Gary's store. I feel the best part about the switch is does not use a ingnition key. It has a toggle switch. I was very lucky to find it. My concern with buying a parts switch is the igntion key and cylinder. Who rekeys the cylinder? Paul

I was taken by complete surprise when I went to shut off the ignition by turning the key to the off position and the ignition switch key cylinder pulled out with the ignition key. I am no locksmith and am seeking help to find a good antique automobile locksmith to send the complete ignition switch for repairs. Who can help me by recommending me a good locksmith? Thanks Paul

Thank you for your help.

I have a question on the proper width of copper tubing to use on a Stewarts vacuum tank. Should all of the lines be 5/16 ths inch copper tubing? Or can I use 1/4-inch copper tubing from the gas tank to the fill connection on the top of the Stewarts vacuum tank? This is my first time working on a vacuum tank and want to make sure that I am getting enough volume of fuel to operate the engine. Thanks.

I was able to get some help from Tom McVetmeetern. I want to thank everyone for their help and suggestions. Keep the forums strong!-Paul

Still learning the computer. Here are photos of my Ameican Bosch. The break down diagram is great. I am using the LL41 rotor. I hope this will help-Paul

Here are some

I took some photos of the distributor. I talked with a friend who told me that this distributor has internal flyweights so no need of a timing rod. I am going back today and will see if I can find a model or serial number. The lettering for this distributor are raised letters cast into the top housing where the cap would attach. Now, any recommendations for antique ingintion parts suppliers who may carry parts for this little beasty? Thanks for your help

I am helping on a 1926 model t ford that has the above distributor. I am looking for any information as how it operates, timing, and ignition parts. I am guessing this must be a 1920's era distributor. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks

There was a Star coupe that was for sale on Ebay. The car was/is (???) for sale in Maine. I contacted the owner, and he told me quite a bit about the car. It was bought and been in his family. Had original bill of sale, and other documentation. He appeared that he wanted to sell it and now may back down because of other family members do not want him to sell a family car. I like a car with a good original car with history. The history of this car and all its documentation was impressive. I have had a variety of cars over time, and I recently was able to purchase an early 1926 Chevy Touring car. I am the third owner of it. I have a good background as model t ford mechanic and have had a few of them. The Chevy has been great fun for me, and I wanted one of Durant’s other cars to learn from and keep alive. This is the reason why I wanted to ask for more information about any car I am interested in before I purchase it. This is why I like the AACA as there are so many people willing to help a fellow car nut. -Paul

Thank you for the feedback. I found out from the owner that the engine is a model m. This is great stuff and I hope other people will have input- Thanks Paul

I am looking for feedback and information on a 1927 Star. I am interested in in the car for its history as the car is running and is in good shape. I would like to hear from star owners about their car experience and have visited the https://www.dmacweb.com. I am well aware that this is known as an assembled car and am trying to understand what does the L- head designation mean? I have looked on the website links and would like to know if the community can recommend engine, drive train, etc. suppliers for this car. Thank you for your help- Paul

Thank you for your help. I did not see a pitcock near the hose at the bottom of the radiator. I plan to take off the front sheet metal covers underneath the radiator to see if there is a drain there. I like your idea of the 1927 engine as a candidate for parts. That would make more sense than the 1925. I have been a model t ford busted knuckle person for years and was looking for a car with a strandard transmission. I enjoy learning new things and the I feel the Chevy will give me more control in traffic over the band system in the model t. Your cars look great! Paul

Ok, I just recently bought a 1926 Chevy. I have been slowly going over the car and have a couple of questons. Where is the radiator pitcock or valve located? My instructions manual discusses water flow, but does not show how or where to drain the water out of the radiator. How much 600 wgt oil goes into the transmission and rear end? Is the 1925 engine comparitalble to the 1926 for interchange of parts? Thank you for your help

Well, so much to think about and sometimes things change as now this is a 1927 G70. I will email the owner and ask for the engine serial number. The lack of parts are a concern, and I know what can happen with a pot metal oil!!!!! I will send another photo of the front of the car with the car badge. Maybe someone will be able to identify the badge. thank you all-

I am thinking of purchasing a 1926 Chrysler 70 sedan. the car was restored some time ago. I would like to hear back from who may own a similar car and what they think of its performance, parts availability, and any other pro or con feedback. I have been a model t, early chevy, and model A person. I know this is a general question and all I want to make sure is that there is some help out there for this year car. Thank you

Thanks Matt, I have been looking and your photograph helps me to locate it. I found a replacement switch through www.napaonline.com. The Echlin part number is a good number at any auto parts store. Paul Stoplight Switch Part #: ECH SL134

Ok, Ok, I need to get my eyes checked, but where is the brake/stop light located on the brake lines of a 1941 Buick Special, model 40A? The switch is original and both brake/stop lights quit at once. Got the car out for a spring (?) drive. Spring as in the calendar! I had another person follow me and informed me there were no brake lights. The service manual does not give a location and I have tried to google the switch location. Any suggestions. Thanks

Hi Pete, Thank you for your help. The diagram is more detailed than the one in the Buick Service Manual. I thought about this conundrum and contacted The Carburetor Shop (where I purchased my rebuild kit) and Doug Seybold who is a Buick tech resource in the Buick Club. Both told me that there was no tab F. The Buick manual on rebuilding and adjusting the carb was written by Buick. The additional manual is from the https://www.buickheritagealliance.org/archives/details/1116 The document is written by Bendix see below: Item Number: 01116 Author: Bendix Products Division Type: Carburetor Manual Donor or Source: Alliance Archive Cost of Reproduction: $15.00 I have ordered the booklet and the other question was how much tension to put on the choke spring bysetting the tension on the automatic choke coil thermostat. The book has not come yet, but I wanted to pass this information on to you and your diagram has offered me where tab F is located. Thank you for your help

Have you sold this item?

please go to the Gardner Motor Club gardnermotorcars.com. I have a 1925 gardner touring car and am working on it. I have a kingston carb and the best place to order parts is The Carburetor Shop https://thecarburetorshop.com/

I have a 1941 Buick Special, model 40 A, with the single body Stromberg carb set up, not the duals. Where is tab f located on the carb? The owners manual and carb repair kit do not show a good diagrahm of the tab. I know the tab needs to be bent but where is the tab located and what direction does the tab bend? Thanks Paul

Well, how about that? A monogram radiator mascot with your initial on it! What will they think of next? Thanks for all of your help- Paul