dxod

Stumpy's Fab Works makes an engine stand adapter for V-12. FFESA -SHV12. https://www.stumpysfabworks.com/ Dan

Wow! 80 mph in a 39(?) Zephyr! Cojones grande!

dl 456 - Sent you a pm. Dan O'Donnell

Mitch - I would like a copy of the wiring diagram too if it is not to much trouble. I have a 48 Continental coupe that is in the shop for rust repair. Will be replacing all the wiring when the rust repair is finished. My email is dx@prismnet.com Thks Dan

Larry Thanks for the response. In looking more closely at the parts I have, the upper sections are restorable but the lower sections are really rough. Your reply to Glenn told me what I need to know. Looks as if I need only the lower sections and fog light bezels. Dan

Thanks, all. Drill out and silver solder it is. I'm ready - I hope - for the sticker shock. Dan

WTB - Restorable 1948 Continental grille sections. Both lower sections, fog light housings, upper passenger side section. Dan

My 1948 Continental coupe has pitted pot metal grille pieces, tail lights, tail light spears, everything. Has anyone had experience with chrome on pitted pot metal? Some shops say put on copper, sand and buff, re-copper, sand and buff some more until the pits are filled. I wonder about corrosion products left in the pits before the first layer of copper goes on and future bubbling. Some shops drill out pits to clean metal, fill with silver or lead solder, then copper, nickel, chrome. How about repair of broken pot metal? Any experience with Finishing Touch, Paul's Chrome, Ogden Chrome, R&D Finishing? Any other shops? Lots of questions, thanks in advance for help. Dan

Does anyone know if Merv is still active? I had bought some fenders - and a trunk lid - from him a while ago but haven't been able to contact him in recent months. Dan

Cool. Glad to know they can provide the adapter. I'll be in the market for one soon. Dan

Try Stumpy's Fab Works - http://stumpysfabworks.weebly.com/for an adapter that bolts to the exhaust manifold bolt holes. He also sells on ebay. Dan

Here are couple of picture of what I am dealing with on the trunk latch striker plate. We can fabricate a replacement for the missing part of the trunk gasket channel but don't know the configuration of the striker plate. I have the trunk latch itself so know where the striker plate needs to go. Dan

19tom40- thks Dan

Does anyone have a picture of the striker plate for the trunk latch on a 48 Continental coupe? Mine is completely gone. There is enough of the gasket channel left to replicate the part that is completely rusted away but I don't know the configuration of the plate where the trunk latch latches. Dan

Beltfed and 19tom40, do you have the full first page and the next page for those of us with post 1941 cars? (Like my 48) Thanks Dan

Thanks, Beltfed. Dan

Thanks all. That solved the mysteries

Beltfed - Do you have the page that shows the data for 48 rear springs? Dan

There is a gap between the trunk pan and the body at the rear of the trunk and I'm wondering what goes in it to seal the opening. The trunk pan is fastened to the body with two tabs welded to the body. The tabs have pulled out of the trunk body.Also wondering if some deformation has occurred. I can see no evidence of the frame or any of the sheet metal in the trunk area being bent or deformed. There also seems to be some sort of material between the windshield frame and the cowl. Can I seal the gap with seam sealer? Any thoughts?Thanks in advance. Dan

Try Stumpy's Fab Works for V-12 engine stand adapter - http://stumpysfabworks.weebly.com/ - under Ford Cradles/Prices Dan

Thanks B1rdman. I was afraid it would be something like that.

Any ideas on how to remove the clutch pedal extension shaft (also labeled equalizer in the '46 shop manual) on a '48 Continental other than shifting the transmission to the side and letting it fall out? This is the clutch shaft between the clutch and brake pedal assembly and the transmission. Thanks in advance. Dan