fraso

Presumably, you don't have either the owner's manual or service manual. I would suggest that you at least get a service manual before doing anything else. It looks like they're not that hard to find as even Rock Auto lists literature for your car. My Motor manual has the following engine oil specifications for your car: 6 quarts crankcase capacity oil pressure at 45 psi @ 35 mph SAE 20 - above +20°F SAE 20W - above +10°F SAE 10W - above -10°F 30-grade oils were commonly used for summer temperatures in other cars of similar vintage as yours. Extremely hot weather would sometimes call for 40-grade oils. See Chrysler Oil Recommendations. However, oils of that era had poor viscosity indexes (VI) and modern oils do not thicken as much when cold and thin as much due to their much better VIs. Engines need oil FLOW for lubrication and PRESSURE is a byproduct of flow. Using an oil with too high of a viscosity will cause more oil to be relieved back to the sump resulting in less oil reaching the bearings. I would use a 10W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil in your engine, which will also keep your engine clean. See Corvair Oil Article & Engine Wear. Two commonly available gear oil specifications are GL-4 and GL-5. GL-5 gear oils are often corrosive to copper & copper alloys (brass or bronze) due to their sulfur-based extreme pressure additives and are not recommended if you have yellow metal bearings. See The Difference between GL-4 and GL-5 Gear Oils. Transmission specification: 1-3/4 pints capacity SAE 90 gear oil, summer & winter Differential specification: 3 pints capacity SAE 90H (hypoid) gear oil, summer & winter

I'm using Firefox without any problems. However, Firefox sometimes runs slow so I have to restart it.

Before buying a replacement distributor, are you positive that yours is bad? With a timing light, you should be able to see the timing mark advancing as you rev the engine and as you disconnect/reconnect the vacuum advance. If the timing moves steady and doesn't bounce around, your distributor is probably in working order. Have you replaced the fuel filter and made sure that there is enough fuel getting to the carburetor?

Welcome to the AACA forum! If I understand your post correctly, you'd like to buy your first car and would like it to be a Nissan Skyline R32 or a Datsun 280Z. Presumably, you'd like this car to last as long as possible. If you live in the rust belt, your daily driver will likely eventually succumb to corrosion so many people have winter beaters to save their summer cars. If this is your situation and you have the space available, I would recommend that you buy a good used car and Phil Edmonston's Lemon-Aid Guide has good advice. The public library often has this book in the reference section. If you live in an area that doesn't have road salt, then I would look for one of your cars in good condition. You can learn as you go along by starting off with simple maintenance and repairs. More involved repairs where you aren't confident in your abilities could then be done by your favorite mechanic. Often, the hardest part of maintenance is reading the owners manual. I regularly go to YouTube to see if anyone else has already done a repair I'm planning.

If you're considering a larger tire size rather than sticking with the original bias-ply tire, it looks to me that you want a better handling car. Dwollam gave the good suggestion of upgrading to 14" radial tires and the P195/75R14 is the best tire size which keeps your odometer accurate without changing your speedometer pinion gear (17 teeth for a 2:93 axle?). However, a 4.5" rim width is often recommended only tires up to a tire width of 185 mm. I'm using P195/75R14 tires on 14"x4.5" rims on my Barracuda until they wear out and plan to upgrade to a larger rim afterwards. It would be cheaper to stick with a 13" tire and the P185/80R13 is the best modern tire for your rims. However, this size is very hard to find now as a passenger car tire (ie, not trailer tire) but Maxxis still sells it: Maxxis P185/80R13 90S RWW MA-1 See Tire Upgrades.

The springs rather than the lubrication hold up the hood so lubricate the hinges so the mechanism operates smoothly.

I'm glad to read that you were able to transplant a new engine in your car. It probably wouldn't hurt to do a chemical flush on it at some point as part of its maintenance schedule. I would be careful about using CLR as Jelmar does not recommend it for this purpose. http://www.jelmar.com/proline/product_use.htm i believe citric acid is safe to use with iron, brass, and aluminum and I've used it several times with good results. See Cooling System.

Don't use Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It will dilute your oil's additive package while potentially causing foaming. BITOG: Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer BITOG: The Story With Additives I checked the oil recommended in 30s and 40's owners and service manuals and Chrysler recommended 30-grade oils for ambient temperatures above 32°F and 40-grade oils for average daytime temperatures of 90+°F. Any modern 40-grade Heavy Duty Engine Oil (eg 15W-40) would be suitable for your engine for summertime use. The old straight grade oils had very low Viscosity Indexes so a 10W-30 HDEO would also be suitable for summertime use. If you use a 30-grade oil and it too results in 40 psi at elevated RPMs, then more oil is getting to the bearings than being relieved back to the sump.

There is no need to use anything heavier than a 10W-30 engine oil. With a stock slant six valve train, the 800 ppm maximum phosphorus content of an API CK-4/SN Heavy Duty Engine Oil should be adequate although Widman recommends higher phosphorus levels for flat tappet engines (see Corvair Oil Article). As for a 20W-50 grade, this is way too thick and not recommended by Chrysler for slant sixes in 1964/65 and likely not in 1961. The heaviest recommended in my 1965 owner's manual was 20W-40 for temperatures consistently above freezing so a 15W-40 would also be suitable. See Engine Wear.

Spinneyhill is absolutely correct. The new diesel engine oil specification is now API CK-4, which is usually paired with the passenger car motor oil (PCMO) specification of API SN. A dual-rated heavy duty engine oil would therefore carry the API CK-4/SN (or API CJ-4/SM, etc) designation. The concern with API SN is that it requires 30-grade oils to also have a maximum phosphorus (the antiwear component of ZDDP) level of 800 ppm. That is why now it is now more difficult to find a 30-grade HDEO with an API CK-4/SN rating. I've been using Petro Canada Duron SHP 10W-30 in the 225 in my 65 Barracuda. Duron SHP is approved for API CK-4/SN for the 15W-40 grade while the 10W-30 grade is approved for API CK-4 and SUITABLE FOR API SN because it uses the 15W-40's additive package but cannot be approved for API CK-4 because of its 1200 ppm phosphorus content. I have not been able to get other HDEOs (like Shell Rotella) to confirm that their 10W-30 grades use the same additive package as their 15W-40 grades. See Heavy Duty Engine Oils. My 1965 owners manual recommends the 20W-40 grade for ambient temperatures are consistently above 32°F (see Chrysler Oil Recommendations). I've upgraded to a 75 psi hemi oil relief valve spring and I've found that my original oil pump has no problem generating 75 psi above 2000 RPM in hot weather with 10W-30. Using a thicker oil (like 15W-40) just means that more oil blows off back to the sump without reaching the bearings. If you're looking for a good engine oil for your slant six, there is no need to use anything heavier than a 30-grade oil (ie, 0W-30, 5W-30. 10W-30). If it has low oil consumption, a synthetic would be a good choice (eg Mobil Delvac Elite 222 0W-30). Excessively thick oils tend to run hotter and could cause unnecessary engine wear in colder weather. I believe HDEOs generally have higher HTHS ratings than PCMOs and would therefore offer better bearing protection. See Engine Wear.

I used citric acid to clean my engine. I did a write-up about it here: Cooling System

I am glad to read that you've got carburetor issues mostly sorted out. If you would have had problems with getting a working 1bbl carb for your car, Joe's suggestion to use an aftermarket 4bbl carburetor is valid. I have a 1965 Barracuda with a 225 since 1983. I upgraded to a 9625 Carter AFB in 1987 and used it until 2004 when I upgraded to a M4MC Quadrajet. Although the 625 CFM AFB is a bit oversized for my slant six, the main issue I had with it was the former owner completely removed the choke mechanism for drag racing. Summer operation was OK but it wasn't fun to start in cold weather. While it's true that new 4bbl carbs are not calibrated for slant sixes, Edelbrock 4bbl carbs are very easy to recalibrate. Many people use the 390 CFM Holley on these engines but, never having worked on a Holley, I can't say how easy they are to tune. I found that tuning my Quadrajet to be even easier than tuning the AFB. Remember that a 4bbl carb with vacuum or air valve secondaries operates in 2bbl mode most of the time. See Quadrajet Upgrade and Quadrajet Tuning.

If you're sure that your overheating issue is cause by scale and rust, my suggestion is that you chemically clean it. I've used citric acid and it works quite well. See Cooling System for more information.

For older, flat-tappet engines, see Selection of the Right Motor Oil for the Corvair and other Engines, Heavy Duty Engine Oils are a good choice because they have high levels of ZDDP. The detergents in these oils will slowly clean any sludge out of your engine. I would use a 10W-30 grade in your engine but I would also change the filter at every oil change. As for STP, see the HAMB STP Discussion.

Colby Martin, SEMA Action Network's Government & Public Affairs Manager, discusses the importance of joining SEMA SAN whether you're in the USA or in Canada. YouTube: Video Presentation for ACCCC Director's Meeting, 2016-04-15

Mobil 1 video: Is Synthetic Motor Oil Good for Everyday Cars?

Detergent oil will make your engine cleaner. See BITOG: How does Detergents and Dispersant's work in oil? See Selection of the Right Motor Oil for the Corvair and other Engines (Bottom Line Recommendation 10) See Sludge. Non-detergent engine oils also don't have anti-wear additives so using modern engine oils will help engines last longer by reducing wear: See Impact of Low Quality Oils on Engine Wear and Sludge Deposits Wear and Sludge Deposits. I would use a 10W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil in your Windsor. I use 10W-30 Rotella T in my slant six and will be switching to Petro Canada Duron-E once the Rotella is gone.

Winterization is just preventive maintenance. Another Winter Storage article.

Since LPG is cheaper than gasoline in Norway, you might also want to consider using a pair of Impco Model 100 carbs, which are available in a variety of SAE flanges. See Propane Carburetion.

I had the AM radio in my 65 Barracuda repaired by the Radio Hospital in Hamilton, ON. I got them to install a the Aurora FMC-1 FM upgrade at the same time. See Radio Upgrades.

Modern engine oils have to meet many performance specifications in addition to keeping engines clean. The latest passenger car motor oil (PCMO) specification is service category API SN while the latest heavy duty engine oil (HDEO) specification is API CJ-4. HDEOs often have dual specifications so that they meet the performance requirements of PCMO as well (eg, API CJ-4/SM) which means that they are suitable in both gasoline and diesel engines. Every service category includes the performance requirements of the previous categories. An important component of a detergent engine oil is its detergent and dispersant additives. Detergents act on surfaces to lift deposits to keep them suspended. Dispersants keeps suspended deposits in solution. Non-detergent engine oils (API SA & SB) obviously do not contain detergent/dispersant additives. Additives XII-Multifunctional additives Impact of Low Quality Oils on Engine Wear and Sludge Deposits

The 20^th annual Rods & Relics Car Show is scheduled for June 12 this year on the grounds of the Fort Erie Race Track. Fort Erie is at the end of the QEW and is just across the river from Buffalo, NY. Admission is $10 for participants and each adult (maximum of 2) in the car gets a $10 Slots coupon. Coupons go to the first 500 entrants. Net proceeds to Tender Wishes. For more information, please visit the club's web site: Rods & Relics - Fort Erie

Bare rims, 15" x 4½", 5 x 4½" Bolt Circle, 2 Only. They appear to be made for tube tires and have a riveted construction. They also have tabs for mounting dog dish style hub caps. I believe these rims came from a 1933 or 1934 Dodge or Plymouth truck and will fit many 30’s, 40's, 50's, early 60's Mopars of all models. [Mopar, Chrysler, DeSoto, Dodge, Fargo, Plymouth] The wheels are located in Fort Erie, Ontario, Canada and can be shipped by bus at a reasonable cost. The price is $100 for the pair plus freight. PM me if you're interested.

To be more precise, detergents are not the same as dispersants. Detergents keep contaminants in suspension while dispersants keep them from collecting together and getting bigger. The contaminants remain too small to be filtered, which is one reason that it needs to be changed periodically. I'd have to agree with Mark. The only reason non-detergent oils were used in the old days was because better oils weren't invented yet.

Rods & Relics recommends agreed value policies for collector cars. Classic Car Insurance Article