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About kevzpix

  • Birthday 10/01/1941

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  1. Hi Jenz Thanks for the reply & picture. Looks as if that's the correct option. Kevin
  2. Hello Gents I am hoping to install an oil-filter on my 'under restoration' 1935 Series 40, which, of course, came out unequipped. I plan to use an older-style AC cartridge type of filter, mounted on the firewall, to keep it as close to authentic as possible. I propose to use one of the spare outlets on the lower oil journal, to take the oil to the filter, but I need advice on where to bring it back into the engine. I understand the the oil-pressure has to be different at the points of exit & entry, to facilitate proper flow. Do I have that right ? Frankly, I am a bit terrified of the idea of drilling a hole in the crankcase. I would love to hear frrom someone who has done this on a Series 40. Kevin
  3. If you are going to go the plywood route, I would suggest that you only buy marine hardwood. It's a little more expensive than standard construction or furniture hardwoods, but the glues used in the laminating are obviously specified to stand up to sea-water & salt-spray, so it is good enough for road use and very strong. I am using some marine ply in conjunction with hardwood structural elements, such as door-posts, roof-rails etc, in a complete wood frame replacement of a '35 Buick which I am restoring.
  4. Hi Gents Thanks for the response to my query. Yep, frame webbing is exactly what I was looking for, I will order it straight away, I got a bit mixed up in my terminology, as us folk 'down-under', are wont to do. While on the insulation subject, may I ask what product do you recommend for car-body insulation ? Kevin
  5. Hi Gents I wonder if anyone can advise me if there is a suitable modern equivalent, to the impregnated friction tape, originally used between wooden and steel frame components , on 1934/35 cars ? I did a Google search, and it only produced electricians' old-style, cloth insulation tape, as a result. I presume it's not what was used. Looking at the tape remains, on the original frame, it looks like more of a canvas type of textile. Kevin
  6. Hi Pat I found this thread for the first time today. It is so much like my own project, that I have just read every entry, from the begining, and found it so absorbing. I have a 1935 Buick, Series 40, to restore, in a similar condition as your Chev.I normally go straight to the pre-war Buick thread, which is why I didn't see yours until now. Mine has a limousine style body, by Fisher on it, which I think, was imported into New Zealand, that way, rather than being custom built here. I have to replace the entire wooden frame, as you have, since my car had been out in the open air, for many years. The woodwork was either rotten, or infested with wood-borer beetle. When I dismantled the car, the wood that was there, crumbled in my hands, so no chance of patterns. I found your photos very interesting, and many of the components look exactly like mine, naturally. I have been working on the woodwork, for a year and a half now, and found all the curves and bulges extremely challenging, as this is my first restoration. Whenever I get completely stuck, I revert to mechanicals, and so far I have a rolling chassis, with the bottom half of the engine installed. So that's about where i am at, & I intend going back over all your postings, and I'm sure to pick up some tips. Thanks for posting them. Cheers Kevin
  7. Hi Marty I like the sound of incorporating the power-booster to the existing mechanical brakes. Any info about what kind of unit you used ? Also, did you use it in conjunction with 6v or 12v system. Kevin
  8. Hi Sandy I haven't got a car to sell, but just say hi. I'm here in Texas picking up the luggage trunk, which you sold to me, some time ago. I'm currently filling it with other parts I need, to maximise my shipping cost. The trunk is great, by the way. Hope you are OK. Kevin
  9. Hi Grant Thanks for the info, Stuart Syme has offered me his spares, so I will accept that. How is the corvette going ? Regards Kevin
  10. Thanks Gents , for all the positive results. Clearly, re-silvering is the way to go. Thanks for the offer Stuart, I'll be in touch, post haste. Progress is pretty slow, I've spent the winter, in between dodging earthquake rubble, trying to rebuild the wooden frame, without patterns and only crude measurements taken from the metal body itself. All a bit challenging for someone of limited skills. The engine is nearly back together, held up for a long while , sourcing a replacement harmonic enginge balancer. Regards Kevin
  11. Compliments of the season to all forum users. I need to re-polish tarnished headlamp reflectors, on my 1935 Series 40. They have the very "yellowed" patina, so I presume the original was nickel-plated. Is that correct ? The original silver finish is so thin as to be almost non-existent, so I presume it has been shined by using harsh, cutting type polishing. I appreciate any advice. Kevin Christchurch, NZ
  12. Hi I wonder if anyone can provide me with clutch set-up measurements, to enable correct re-assembly of my clutch. My W/shop manual gives the maximum tolerance for the vertical alignment of the pressure plate relating to the flywheel, but apparently I need two critical measurements : (1) the distance from rear-facing side of the clutch-release-plate, to the rear-facing side of the pressure-plate; and, (2) the distance from the rear-facing side of the clutch-release-plate, to the rear of the cutch-plate. :confused: . I appreciate any information, which anyone has. Kevin O'Connor
  13. Thanks Gents for your suggestions, if I can get mine as good as Stuart's looks, I'll be well pleased. Grant, I will give you a call, to follow up your kind offer. The black paint, is on the ridges of the plate, rather than the depressions, so maybe scraping out the indentations, after painting the whole thing, would work. I was also thinking of sticking some string or fine cord into the grooves, before painting, might help. Kevin
  14. Hi I wonder if anyone has any tips for me, on restoring the striped design, on the worn dash panel, on my 1935 Series 40. As you can see from the attached pics, the matt-black stripes, are worn off, especially where the control knobs, come thru the panel. The stripes are very narrow, being slightly more than a millimetre each wide. They seem too narrow for masking, and what kind of paint would best reproduce these matt black stripes. I would appreciate any ideas. :confused: Kevin
  15. Hi Grant I would be interested in taking a look at your '39 coupe, especially the wood-graining restoration, as I have the same job facing me, on my 1935 Series 40. I am also in Christchurch. Regards Kevin
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