tcrabtree

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About tcrabtree

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/13/1953

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    tcrabtree37@yahoo.com
  1. I have a 39 coupe and hope someone can tell me what the proper linkage adjustmets are for the shifter. Mine does not hang up like my 71 Chevy p'up did. When it hung up you couldn't move the shifter and the truck had to be running and somebody had to hold the clutch in as you climbed under to shake the rails loose. The most memorable time was waiting in line to enter the infield at the Talladega 500 as it began to rain. We heard on the radio the race was called off so everybody in front of me had turned around and was blowing their horns at me. Probably no more than about half of the 240 thousand that attended that day. I got some help, got it loose, drove home,went back the next week and the engine blew up on the way home. I learned then don't adjust the linkage (at all) if you don't know what you are doing because it will get worse. That's why I hope one of you can tell me where to find some type diagram showing the linkage and the propper adjustment. I read the other solutions but I don't see any worn parts (like the pot metal parts mentioned before) or more probably don't know if they are worn or not by looking since my shop manuel or any of the other material shows a picture or gives adjustments. I have purchased every piece of material I've seen for the car except some of the service letters. Chip Crabtree
  2. I can take a picture of mine that has been out of my radiator for about a year now because I keep thinking I can find someone to repair it. You can see what the inside looks like too since it is out of the can. Let me give you the brief bit of knowledge I do have about it and then you tell me how you got all of these replies because I am obviously using this forum incorrectly because I didn't get any responses when I asked the same question and I have plenty more questions to ask about 1939 Packard 6 coupes. Mine was not easy to get out because the corrosion and the fact that I did not want to tear the radiator up which made it harder because at the time I had no idea what it looked like. The man at the radiator shop, where I had the radiator supposedly cleaned, would not try to get it out after the second screwhead popped off when he attempted to get it out. I got it out after breaking the other heads off and then got a chisel and hammer and tapped around the outside edge of the cover. I didn't damage it any more than somebody who knew what they were doing asit turned out. OK, remember at this point (getting the cover off) I still had no idea what the thing was supposed to look like so I didn't realize that about 2/3rds of the (Sylphon) flange was stuck to the back of the cover because of the corrision and limited knowledge. I cleaned it all up, the inside part and the cup. The inside looks like the ringed portion of any other thermostat. At the bottom of the inside portion which would be against or very close to the bottom inside portion of the cup is a small hole that had a 3/8 to 1/2 inch square piece owhat appeared to be paper gasket material over it. At this point I still didn't know if water was supposed to circulate on the inside of the cup. The inside coiled piece has and still does have about 10 holes on the outside of the coils in the same area and on the same side like it had rubbed on the inside of the cup. The cup has several splits on the sides and as I said the cup flange is in several pieces. As bad as this sounds it should be an easy fix for a brass repair person. It would not be nearly as hard as repairing a brass radiator but I can't find any body that repairs them. I just about fainted when I saw all of these responses to your email. Mine is original with Sylphon and several patent numbers stamped on the bottom of the cup. If I cant find anyone that will repair it at a resonable price then I am going to get the JB Weld to it. The pieces of the flange or lip that aren't connected should not be a problem because it was sandwitched between the outside cap where the opener linkage is mounted and the extrusion on the raidiator and could be JB Welded in place. As far as it not being original if you have seen pictures of the replacements then you know that they barely resemble the original. The only picture I have seen is the one Bill Hirsch has. While looking for a replacement for mine I ran across an industrial HVAC supply site and they had various sized sylphon thermostats used in pipes for HVAC applications but they would never answer my inquiries about measurements. Bill Hirsch has gone up from the 180.00 price listed in thewinter 2009 Packards international magazineto 275.00 on his web site. I was in the process of ordering one when I saw the % he had raised the price and changed my mind as I did with all the nice people who wanted anywhere from 5 to 6 hundred dollars (with Shipping to clean my gas tank and repair the pinholes in the top of it. I stumbled across a galvanizing plant outside of mobile who took care of both problems for me for 100.00 and it is galvanized on the inside and outside. I realize that parts and services are much more expensive for old cars but don't jack them out of site just because it is a Packard. I really do need help because it has been sitting in the garage since two days after I bought it over 2 years ago and it was running when I bought it. Chip
  3. I don't have the jump seats but I do have a Packard Club Coupe and that is one of the few things missing. Do you happen to have a picture of what they look like? I don't know if they folded from the side or the back. I saw a lexus LX-10 where the back seats fold up to the side like jump seats and look small enough to go in the back of a 30's or 40's car. I thought I had it figured out one time. I thought the folding back seat in a Silverado would work but it is too wide for the Packard. I have thought about this a lot but should shut up because I don't even know what you are trying to put the seats in. Chip