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About MNRoadMaster

  • Birthday 01/28/1956

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  1. I feel I have to pass this along to make sure that the screen in the head's oil intake is taken out. This piece of info cost me quite a bit! I'm glad to hear you are making progress Matt. I can see where bracing would help for the back wheel wells - I'm not sure how to go about it though...
  2. Hi Matt, This is great news and I hope that others that are going to do a project like this find this thread and take note of labeling and photographing as it is crucial. I've heard and seen some real horror stories in this regard! It's something I've been teaching the kids here about as well. I was lucky in that the frame and front end on my car were good (About all that was) I did not take fenders and such off as it was too badly rusted to practically do so. I did not have the option of non rusty parts and it seems that the RoadMasters are a bit more rare than the Supers and Specials (Rag tops not included). I'm probably going to sound sacreligious to some but I used sheet metal repairs and fiberglass and such. I did this car on the super cheap as even at that rate I had a Very tough time pulling it off. I had to be quite creative and resourceful to make up for lack of proper funding. Part of this was that I wanted to avoid the "It took 10 years (or more) to restore it" situation. My car was on the road in a matter of a few months as a rolling project. I think it helped me keep motivated on it. Did you rebuild the motor and tranny yourself Matt? You are going to have a busy summer aren't you! Congrats on the good progress Matt! Don
  3. I agree on putting the engine in First. Be Careful lining up engine and tranny. I had a disaster when the oil slinger came loose amd got caught in between the engine and tranny - do not pass go do not collect and it cost me a tranny too. On the next round I replaced both together just to be positive. Change the shaft seal! If you do the tranny replace the front and if possible rear bearings I'm told they are available at bearing places. Take lots of pics and label Everything. Keep organized! I found that MAP gas and [ower blaster works good with tightening by jarring first. Any news on ways to brace the back wheel wells? It's true they are not real strong and I have not figured out how to do it. Is there a picture of the whole car? Midwest Fabrics has the cardboard material for the panels. I made my own and used older Ford fasteners to affix them to the door. It worked great. Don
  4. Hi Matt, Love your tag line « 1947 56C Project "Can't finish unless you start" | 1958 Limited Four Door Riviera » I'll add - do Something every day on the project. I suggest using a good camera and Label and put all fasteners in plastic sharpie labeled bags. It Really helped me out a ton! Can't go wrong with a parts car and from new mexico - you might swap bodies at that rate...How are you going to lift the body off? I'm going to check out your posting now... Don
  5. Thanks jackofalltrades70 - Feel free to let me know if you have any questions or need advice or anything else. I sure had lots of folks help out as resources and such. Glad to hear that your boy is getting involved! Do you have a pic of your car posted?
  6. Hi Redrob - you must be talking about the May 1st event? The boys and I will be there and can hardly wait to see you and the mighty Centurian. Rob McDonald - sure you may call me MINNEMASTER if you'd like. It was a heck of a project and I can certainly see why so many cars sit without getting completed. Thanks so much for the compliment and appreciation here Rob McDonald! I tried painting the tires with whitewall paint and as it turned out, it doesn't work with these specific tires. I was searching for a solution and saw a utube video of a guy grinding them down to expose the whitewall underneath. The paint showed me that there was 4 inch whitewall underneath the raised white Firestone Destination LE letters. It must just be a part of the manufacturing process. I used an 8 inch sanding disk with a drill arbor on it, which worked pretty well. It was a bit messy and time consuming but they are good tires and were much less expensive than the Cokers etc. Besides they are radials and run quiet too. In my last few trips to the tire shops to get new tires the folks there always want to put the whitewall inside. I don't get it at all. I have no idea why white walls are not being used. How's things with the 57 Roadmaster Rob? If you have white letters you can start grinding!
  7. spring 2011 update - I found original fog lamps with switch, wired them in and they work - ground the tires down and exposed the whitewalls underneath and new 320 engine!
  8. Thanks so much for your thoughtful and educational post regarding this topic Rusty! I love learning all about this stuff! I do have a 49 Plymouth Special Deluxe I'm hoping to get running in the future. I'm determined to get the original, but very stuck engine going rather than putting something diffferent in it.
  9. If you don't want the Holleys let me know. Where might I find one of these intakes??? Did a search on the web for Jerry Arnolik in CA with no luck...Any contact info? What would I look for? I've been running a 67 interntional Holley on my '47 RoadMaster and it works good. Wishing the Best for you and your car!
  10. From Wikipedia: History and applications Although flathead in-line 4 and 6 cylinder engines were frequently used for automobiles, tractors, and other products, the best known flathead automotive engine is the early 20th century Ford V-8, which has both sets of valves (intake and exhaust) located on the inside of the "Vee," and which are all operated by a single camshaft located above the crankshaft. Other common configurations included in-line ("straight") eights and a V 12 Lincoln version of the Ford V 8. Due to cooling and efficiency problems, flathead engines fell out of favor in "high power" applications, such as aircraft engines, prior to World War I.[citation needed] However they lived on for some time in the automotive world and were used on the Jeep for instance. Flatheads are no longer in common use for automobiles (except in some rodding and customizing circles),[1][3] although they are still used for some small-engine applications like lawnmowers. Because of their design, the size of valves and the compression ratio are limited, which in turn reduces available power and economy." Also from wikipedia: "Advantages Overhead valve (OHV) engines have specific advantages: Smaller overall packaging — because of the camshaft's location inside the engine block, OHV engines are more compact than an overhead cam engine of comparable displacement. For example, Ford's 4.6 L OHC modular V8 is larger than the 5.0 L I-head Windsor V8 it replaced. GM's 4.6 L OHC Northstar V8 is slightly taller and wider than GM's larger displacement 5.7 to 7.0 L I-head LS V8. The Ford Ka uses the venerable Kent Crossflow OHV engine to fit under its low bonnet line. Less complex drive system — OHV engines have a less complex drive system to time the camshaft when compared with OHC engines. Most OHC engines drive the camshaft or camshafts using a timing belt, a chain or multiple chains. These systems require the use of tensioners which add some complexity to the engine. In contrast a OHV engine has the camshaft positioned just above crankshaft and can be run with a much smaller chain or even direct gear connection. [edit] Limitations Some specific problems that remain with overhead valve (OHV) engines: Limited engine speeds or RPM — OHV engines have more valvetrain moving parts, thus more valvetrain inertia and mass, as a result they suffer more easily from valve "float", and may exhibit a tendency for the pushrods, if improperly designed, to flex or snap at high engine speeds. Therefore, OHV engine designs cannot revolve ("rev") at engine speeds as high as OHC [3] Modern OHV engines are usually limited to about 6,000 to 8,000 revolutions per minute (rpm) in production cars, and 9,000 rpm to 10,500 rpm in racing applications. In contrast, many modern DOHC engines may have rev limits from 6,000 rpm to 9,000 rpm in road car engines, and in excess of 20,000 rpm (though now limited to 18,000 rpm) in current Formula One race engines using pneumatic valve springs. High-revving pushrod engines are normally solid (mechanical) lifter designs, flat and roller. In 1969, Chevrolet offered a Corvette and a Camaro model with a solid lifter cam pushrod V8 (the ZL-1) that could rev to 8,000 rpm. The Volvo B18 and B20 engines can rev to more than 7,000 rpm with their solid lifter camshaft. However, the LS7 of the C6 Corvette Z06 is the first production hydraulic roller cam pushrod engine to have a redline of 7,100 rpm. Limited cylinder head design flexibility — overhead camshaft (OHC) engines benefit substantially from the ability to use multiple valves per cylinder, as well as much greater freedom of component placement, and intake and exhaust port geometry. Most modern OHV engines have two valves per cylinder, while many OHC engines can have three, four or even five valves per cylinder to achieve greater power. Though multi-valve OHV engines exist, their use is somewhat limited due to their complexity and is mostly restricted to low and medium speed diesel engines. In OHV engines, the size and shape of the intake ports as well as the position of the valves are limited by the pushrods." Most automobiles today have some sort of OHV arrangement (OHC or DOHC) and there are still Some pushrod style engines available as well. I'm personally more partial to the pushrod style because I find them easier to work on than the modern OHC DOHC engines. I'm not "bashing" the flatheads here because they are good engines too, I'm simply passing on some information I have found. There's an interesting article at: The Pushrod Engine Finally Gets its Due - Column - Auto Reviews - Car and Driver as well. The Buick was well known for dependability as well as speed. My friend tells me that in the early 70's he street raced a 69 Charger 40 miles and beat him in his 48 stock Buick. There are other stories as well. As for the babbited bearings - that is also a matter that has been much debated. Like anything else - including this subject - there always seem to be trade offs. Your Mileage May Vary... Modern lubricants make a huge difference in any of our older engines holding up. The original engine is back in my car with a very much on the cheap - rebuild with much help from my friends! My heating issues went away and I have a 180 degree thermostat in it. When the engine went south it got plenty hot and it appears that this essentially "cooked" out the block. Also my friend did a radical center exhaust manifold repair that is working like a charm!
  11. I have a friend who welded my 320 center exhaust manifold and he used 99 nickel rod. He wouldn't even consider castalloy. Yes he heated it very hot before welding it up. He chopped off the ends and welded pipe in their places as well as fashioning pieces to repair the rest. We just got the engine running and have about 150 miles on it. So far so good. It looks amazing. He tells me I am lucky that the cast iron still had plenty of metal to it? This guy has been welding for well over 50 years and the local welding shop wouldn't touch it. We still have to reinstall everything with new gaskets, but I believe it should be very quiet after we complete this on Friday. What would porcelain coating do to help - if anything?
  12. Thanks for the reply and the info here. Boy do I wish I could figure out how to get ahold of that guy with that block - especially if it would still take standard pistons and rings which I do have. I was surprised to hear that someone might have use for the parts I have. So far I have found out that there were "lots of small changes" the fuel pump for sure is different. I still do not know if the crank is different - or the rods and lifters or head. What condition is the head you have in? Thanks again! Don
  13. Thanks in advance for the help here. I have a 47 Road Master that I've rescued from the scrap heap here (sitting since '71) with the 320 which I'm refusing to change over to anything but another 320. The original engine melted down and I found a good block with crank, rods and cam out of a 37 Century in very nice condition although frozen when I got it.(320). Will it work (with all peripherals bolting on) and bolt up OK? For some reason I thought I heard it would not work. I believe that I should be able to use the domed pistons and head (after having it checked and a valve job) out of the melted down engine I believe as they look OK. I've really been enjoying the posts here an modifying these engines although at this point I have to get something that functions on the cheap right now. These engines are getting hard to find aren't they! Thanks again! Don
  14. I saw this and it's a situation I have just dealt with. I took my cap off and cleaned in there as best I could where the plate rotates. I noticed a ball bearing out of place on the side and corrected it. Use low temp cold weather lithium grease on it. See if it moves by hand, Measure what it's getting for vacuum to work with - I had a good reading of 20. Put a vacuum checker on the distributer port and see if it moves correctly with 15 as a measurement - this is what mine worked with -and if not repair / replace the unit. I hope this helps - it's just what worked for me.... Don
  15. GM Part number needed for Buick 320 engine piston rings Std 37 - 53 Help Please. I"m trying to fix my 48 320 engine on a shoestring budget here and it would help very much if I could figure out what the original part number was! Thanks in advance! Don
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