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MNRoadMaster

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About MNRoadMaster

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  • Birthday 01/28/1956
  1. I feel I have to pass this along to make sure that the screen in the head's oil intake is taken out. This piece of info cost me quite a bit! I'm glad to hear you are making progress Matt. I can see where bracing would help for the back wheel wells - I'm not sure how to go about it though...
  2. Hi Matt, This is great news and I hope that others that are going to do a project like this find this thread and take note of labeling and photographing as it is crucial. I've heard and seen some real horror stories in this regard! It's something I've been teaching the kids here about as well. I was lucky in that the frame and front end on my car were good (About all that was) I did not take fenders and such off as it was too badly rusted to practically do so. I did not have the option of non rusty parts and it seems that the RoadMasters are a bit more rare than the Supers and Specials (R
  3. I agree on putting the engine in First. Be Careful lining up engine and tranny. I had a disaster when the oil slinger came loose amd got caught in between the engine and tranny - do not pass go do not collect and it cost me a tranny too. On the next round I replaced both together just to be positive. Change the shaft seal! If you do the tranny replace the front and if possible rear bearings I'm told they are available at bearing places. Take lots of pics and label Everything. Keep organized! I found that MAP gas and [ower blaster works good with tightening by jarring first. Any news
  4. Hi Matt, Love your tag line « 1947 56C Project "Can't finish unless you start" | 1958 Limited Four Door Riviera » I'll add - do Something every day on the project. I suggest using a good camera and Label and put all fasteners in plastic sharpie labeled bags. It Really helped me out a ton! Can't go wrong with a parts car and from new mexico - you might swap bodies at that rate...How are you going to lift the body off? I'm going to check out your posting now... Don
  5. Thanks jackofalltrades70 - Feel free to let me know if you have any questions or need advice or anything else. I sure had lots of folks help out as resources and such. Glad to hear that your boy is getting involved! Do you have a pic of your car posted?
  6. Hi Redrob - you must be talking about the May 1st event? The boys and I will be there and can hardly wait to see you and the mighty Centurian. Rob McDonald - sure you may call me MINNEMASTER if you'd like. It was a heck of a project and I can certainly see why so many cars sit without getting completed. Thanks so much for the compliment and appreciation here Rob McDonald! I tried painting the tires with whitewall paint and as it turned out, it doesn't work with these specific tires. I was searching for a solution and saw a utube video of a guy grinding them down to expose the whitewall
  7. spring 2011 update - I found original fog lamps with switch, wired them in and they work - ground the tires down and exposed the whitewalls underneath and new 320 engine!
  8. Thanks so much for your thoughtful and educational post regarding this topic Rusty! I love learning all about this stuff! I do have a 49 Plymouth Special Deluxe I'm hoping to get running in the future. I'm determined to get the original, but very stuck engine going rather than putting something diffferent in it.
  9. If you don't want the Holleys let me know. Where might I find one of these intakes??? Did a search on the web for Jerry Arnolik in CA with no luck...Any contact info? What would I look for? I've been running a 67 interntional Holley on my '47 RoadMaster and it works good. Wishing the Best for you and your car!
  10. From Wikipedia: History and applications Although flathead in-line 4 and 6 cylinder engines were frequently used for automobiles, tractors, and other products, the best known flathead automotive engine is the early 20th century Ford V-8, which has both sets of valves (intake and exhaust) located on the inside of the "Vee," and which are all operated by a single camshaft located above the crankshaft. Other common configurations included in-line ("straight") eights and a V 12 Lincoln version of the Ford V 8. Due to cooling and efficiency problems, flathead engines fell out of favor in "high powe
  11. I have a friend who welded my 320 center exhaust manifold and he used 99 nickel rod. He wouldn't even consider castalloy. Yes he heated it very hot before welding it up. He chopped off the ends and welded pipe in their places as well as fashioning pieces to repair the rest. We just got the engine running and have about 150 miles on it. So far so good. It looks amazing. He tells me I am lucky that the cast iron still had plenty of metal to it? This guy has been welding for well over 50 years and the local welding shop wouldn't touch it. We still have to reinstall everything with new ga
  12. Thanks for the reply and the info here. Boy do I wish I could figure out how to get ahold of that guy with that block - especially if it would still take standard pistons and rings which I do have. I was surprised to hear that someone might have use for the parts I have. So far I have found out that there were "lots of small changes" the fuel pump for sure is different. I still do not know if the crank is different - or the rods and lifters or head. What condition is the head you have in? Thanks again! Don
  13. Thanks in advance for the help here. I have a 47 Road Master that I've rescued from the scrap heap here (sitting since '71) with the 320 which I'm refusing to change over to anything but another 320. The original engine melted down and I found a good block with crank, rods and cam out of a 37 Century in very nice condition although frozen when I got it.(320). Will it work (with all peripherals bolting on) and bolt up OK? For some reason I thought I heard it would not work. I believe that I should be able to use the domed pistons and head (after having it checked and a valve job) out of the mel
  14. I saw this and it's a situation I have just dealt with. I took my cap off and cleaned in there as best I could where the plate rotates. I noticed a ball bearing out of place on the side and corrected it. Use low temp cold weather lithium grease on it. See if it moves by hand, Measure what it's getting for vacuum to work with - I had a good reading of 20. Put a vacuum checker on the distributer port and see if it moves correctly with 15 as a measurement - this is what mine worked with -and if not repair / replace the unit. I hope this helps - it's just what worked for me.... Don
  15. GM Part number needed for Buick 320 engine piston rings Std 37 - 53 Help Please. I"m trying to fix my 48 320 engine on a shoestring budget here and it would help very much if I could figure out what the original part number was! Thanks in advance! Don
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