Bob Engle
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Posts posted by Bob Engle
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Do you have the last car built? or are you building a replica of it ? The orginal data plate would tell the color.
Bob Engle
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Grind the teeth on an old hacksaw blade flush on the sides so there is no rake. Use this to cut the mica below the surface by a 1/32". You don't want to cut the copper commutators.
I do this any time I have a generator apart. I'ts an absolute necessity if you turn the commnutators to get a good concentric surface.
Bob Engle
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Here are 50 series junk parts to show the original parts. If you do this, be sure to put the leather boot on the torque tube before assembly to transmission. You can see the groove in the transmission torque ball retainer for the leather boot wire clamp.
There have been arguements about high visosity or low viscosity transmission gear lube. Hi viscosity will leak less around the ball or low viscosity will drain back into the transmission easier. My recommmendation is to NOT overfill the transmission as a high level will impede return of the oil from the U joint.
Bob Engle
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There are no seals in these early 8 cylinder drive trains. Their original systems had a leather boot that was to protect the metal to metal surfaces of the torque ball. These boots deteriorated and dirt and rust damaged the surfaces of the torque balls. There are no easy solutions. Finding undamaged parts is next to impossible and the spherical surfaces are difficult to repair. even as new there was a small amount of leakage. Most people just put a new leather boot over the ball and accept some leakage.
Bob Engle
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Thanks for the follow up.
Bob Engle
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My 1917 D45 has an electric fuel pump and regulator feeding gas into the vacuum tank. The vacuum line to the intake manifold is plugged. A return line is run from the vacuum tank back to the gss tank. I put a pressure gauge on the vacuum tank fill plug and the system maintains less than 1/2# pressure in the tank, so there should be about 1# at the carb. The system seems to work fine. I had some stumbling problems on acceleration, so I went into the tdistributor and found that some previous owner had replaced the points cam block with a homemade one that was 3 times thicker which changes the whole dwell picture. I also found that the advance fly weights were sticking, so I pulled the distributor appart and cleaned an lubed the mechanical advance. I do plan to put the vacuum tank back into operating condition sometime in the future. I picked up a spare at Hershey so I now have all the internal parts. As for carmover's problem, I would seriously look at the needle valve and seat. Put a piece of thread around the float and pull up when it is flooding and see if the flooding stops.
Bob Engle
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Why are the results of the meet not posted on a web site?
Bob Engle
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I'll show you pictures of my 1932-58. The parts for 31 and 32 are different, but I believe they are similar in function. The linkge at the bottom of the steering gear for the throttle are diecast parts and very fragile. The light switch is keyed onto the inner tube on the column. The throttle linkage is clamped onto the outer tube. The switch is held on by the round head screw on the botttom of the switch. Remove this screw and loosen the clamp seen in the opening and the switch can be pulled off the bottom. there is a mechanism in the opening of the stamped sheet metal bracket that has a diecast piece with a spring loaded detent for holding the switch position. Again, this diecast part is fragile. I hope this helps you sort out your problems. I suspect your probems are not with the switch, but with the diecast parts.
One further note. The cover for the switch slides in place. It is important that a electrically insulated piece be inside the cover to prevent any shorts of the connectors.
Bob Engle
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The switch is unique to 1931. The good news is that it is common to all 1931 models. There are two different switches listed for 1931, a 5 terminal switch PN 1838267 or a 6 terminal switch PN 1840801. I suspect that there was a mid year change as there were a number of other 1931 changes in midyear. The switches are difficult to find as many were damaged when the steering columns are removed. You may have to rebuild your current switch if it is worn enough to not function properly.
The cover for the switch is common with 1932 models. I would not be surprised to find that you could adapt a 1932 switch if you could find one of these. I sold all the spare ones that I had for 1932.
Bob Engle
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The brass plug that you is looking for a home, could it be part of the oil temp regulator system. there are springs that may have been retained by that plug. Just guessing on my part as I only know the 50 series engines.
Bob Engle
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The only things applying thrust to the cam are the oil pump gear and the crankshaft drive gear. I believe both of these gears force the cam to the rears to maintain contact with the cam thrust plate. There should little in the way of forces that will work on the retaining bolt.
The factory was not concerned with the bolt coming loose or they would have pinned it or wire locked it.
Bob Engle
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The real question will come when it is hot and the condition returns. It will be important to take the same temp readings and see how they compare to good operating conditions.
That will give you the info to develope plan of attack.
Bob Engle
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It came through fine on my system.
Thanks
Bob Engle
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You are right. In that case, I would be sure to block heat riser tubes at the exhaust manifold. You don't want that exhaust heat any where near your carb or air cleaner.
Bob Engle
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The heat shield was one of those parts that got trashed as they were a nuisance to work around. More 32 Buicks are missing the heat shield than have them in place. The photos are of John Scheib's model 57S, but the heat shields are similar on all series.
I carry an infrared thermometer whenever I am driving an old car. It's easy to take temp readings on radiators, heat risers, brake drums, engine blocks etc.
Bob Engle
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32 Buicks had insulation on the line from fuel pump to carb. I would think 31's might be the same. There should also be a heat shield between the air cleaner and exhaust manifold. Be sure to plug the exhaust diverter so no exhaust goes to the carb.
Bob Engle
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You can buy for about $10 a 12 volt to 6 volt converter. Put inline with you 12 volt solar and you are in business. I agree with Barney. The Schumacher charges work great. I haven't had one fail., while the old competitor's fail frequently . I buy them from the local Tractor Supply on sale for under $20.
bob Engle
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Glad to help. Let me know of any other issues you may have on the 32. I've spent too much time learning on my 32 -58.
Bob
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There is a pinion sleeve lock on the passenger side of the of the pinion housing. Remove the two bolts and the locking piece. Remove the locking bolt just forward of the sleeve lock. Using a pry bar turn the slotted piece seen in the slot. This will moove the entire pinion shaft assembly either in or out. Move it in the direction that moves the assembly toward the rear. once the assembly is out you can tackle the bearing removal. All the et up specifications for teh bearings and pinion gear are in the 1932 Specifications and adjuments manual.
Sorry about the focus on the picture. I got in a hurry.
Bob Engle
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There are a number of locations such as the leaf spring shackle bolts where you can remove the cup and drill and pipe tap the bolt for grease gun use and you can still put the cup on the outside for correct appearance. The cups are a nuisance to fill with the large number of them on the 17 cars. I am still looking for grease cups to replace the zirk fittings so I have the correct appearance.
Bob Engle
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Terry: The throwout bearing was in excellent condition. I just flushed the old grease out and repacked it. There's no noise from the bearing with the clutch depressed.
Bob
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Don: That was my thought on the carb. I'm not going to drive it in the dead of winter when heat may help. I think I will plug the fitting at the manifold and leave the flex tube in place for appearance only.
Bob
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Over the winter, I dropped the oil pan, reshimmed the rod bearings, pulled the pistons and checked wrist pins. Surprise, the piston skirts were copper plated. Bores all looked good. Rods are at about .003" now. I helicoiled the pan bolt holes in the crankcase. about half had been stripped and a long bolt with nut on top of the unfinished crankaces flange. As I shimmed the rod bearings by filing down the single .1000" shims, I checked the that they were not too tight, by taking a squirt bottle and trimming the tapered to fit the rod oil pickup hole. I forced oil into the bearings and then moved them for and aft by hand as I hand cranked the engine though 90 degrees for each rod bearing. I removed the main bearing caps, except the front on and checked the clearance. one was a .005", but the bearing surfaces all showed no signs of scuffing so I left them alone. Before installing the pan, I again squirted oil into the rods as well as into the main bearing galleys. I left the outside oil line from the dash gage off and used a piece of garden hose to fill the rod troughs and pan to the proper oil level.
Next on the agenda was the clutch. I removed the transmission and disassembled the clutch. Clutch was relined with a material similar to woven brake lining material. I wrestled with the idea of using leather or kevlar. Because both are smooth surfaced materials, I was concerned about oil and grease getting on the clutch. I felt that the woven material would hold up better over time. I also relined the clutch brake with woven material. The old brake material was so worn that the cone piece was rubbing against the transmission bolts. All parts were thouroughly cleaned and lubed for assembly.
I was concerned about the setup of the clutch. I am not claiming this is authoritative, but it was my rational for setup.
1. Clutch pedal travel is 5 3/4" from bottom of floorboard released to top of floorboard fully depressed. This travel is about 5 3/4".
2. This travel results in about 3/4" travel of the trunnion that contacts the clutch throwout bearing.
3. the ratio of pedal movement to trunning movement is abou 71/2 : 1.
4. The initial location of the trunnion throwout bearing is set by the arm on the rightside of the bell housing. I did not want this initial gap setting to be too close.. Zero contact would lead to throwout bearing failure as it would spin all the time. A very small clearance would mean that very little movement of the clutch pedal would initiate contact. I set the clearane at 3/16". This requires about 1 1/2" of pedal travel. This travel gives me some meovement to get some feel for the clutch.
5. After the initial trunnion setting is done, the clutch pedal initial position can be adjusted by the turnbuckle on the rod from the pedal to the lever on the left side of the bell housing. I set this close to the floor board and at the same heighth as the brake pedal.
6. clutch release is a small amount of travel, about 1/16" is neededat the trunnion to release the clutch and clear the 4 spring plungers. This is less than 1/2" additional pedal travel.
7. Further pedal travel will move the clutch adjusting nut toward the heavy coil spring on the transmission input shaft. I adjusted this nut to give me 1/4" clearance before clutch pedal movement. This means that as the clutch is released with the 1/16" movement mentioned above, there is 3/16" (1 1/2" pedal travel) movement of the trunnion before beginnig application of the input shaft brake ( clutch brake). At this point, the clutch pedal has traveled about 3 1/2". further travel will compress the heavy coilspring and fully engage the shaft brake.
8. To me, the clutch brake is a mysterious mechanism. It is called a clutch brake in the reference manual. With the clutch released, and the car is in any gear, the input shaft will be driving the clutch assembly. The only time the clutch brake makes sense to me is when the car has been brought to a stop, by shifting into neutral, the pedal can be fully depressed to apply the clutch brake stopping the clutch assembly so the car can be shifted into gear without clashing.
With the new clutch and the above setup, I was pleasantly surprised at how well the car shifted on its initial drive. It's still a learning experience for me to not depress the pedal too far. I can drive with almost no clash shifting gears. It's a pleasure to drive now.
New brake linings were installed while the rear end was out. What a pain getting them assembled and fitting reasonably close to the drum diameters. The regular brakes are not fitted as well as I would like, but they are working and I will continue to adjust as they wear in. Thankfully the emergency brakes fitted up well. They will difinitely stop the car. I almost wish I could swap the brakes so the pedal would apply the emergency brakes. The linings work well, The challenge is getting the outer bands to match the drum. Getting them bent to fit the brum before assembly and then getting them over the backing plates without losing the diameter is difficult.
I was happy with my first two short drives. Unfortunately, on my last return trip the engine began to stumble Idle was very rough. upon stopping, the carb began spilling gas onto the ground. So the carb is off and being cleaned with a new nitrile foam float.
On the early 30's Buicks the heat risers are all blocked off from the exhaust gases. Is this a good practice for the 17 D45 carbs also?? Any tips on set up and adjustment are welcome.
Bob Engle
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front wheels are usually fairly easy. Jack up the wheel under the axle. heavy spot will go to the bottom. If it doesn't want to turn, spin the wheel and watch where it stops. do this multiple times and see if the wheel stop at the same spot. weight needs to be added opposite the heavy spot. You don't need to worry about dynamic balance, weight can be added to the inside of the wheel. To check runout, with the wheel jacked up stand a board up against the tread and turn the wheel to see the runout .
Bob Engle
1931 60 exhaust leak
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
This is problematic on these early straight 8's. The exhaust manifold gets as hot as 700 degrees and the cylinder head gets to 250 degrees. You have almost 3 feet of one piece cast iron that must be able to expand and contract without binding. Cast iron takes compressive force well. It does not like extension forces that happen at cool down. You will not save yourself much time by trying to keep the manifold connected to the exhaust pipe. The intake will come loose with the exhaust. Plan to remove the additional 2 bolts at the exhaust diverter valve to remove the exhaust manifold.
Get copper gaskets for the intake / exhaust manifold, not the composite ones. Olson gaskets has these.Check the manifold for flatness across all ports. and polish the surfaces. On the opposite side, clean the surfaces where the curved washers make contact. Don't be tempted to used bellville washers in place of the original thick washers. Mac Blair has new correct washers. Make a thick paste of graphite and motor oil. Apply liberally to both side of the gasket. After assembly and running, the motor oil will smoke and burn off but leave the graphite there to aid in the movement of the manifold. Tighten the manifold nuts no tighter than needed to not leak. I leave then on the loose side and tighten as needed to prevent leaks when hot. Too tight or binding on the sliding surfaces and you risk cracking the manifold.
Bob Engle