ROD W

Peter Most people use the original wood as patterns for making their new wooden frame. Most of what was said in the thread, 1926 floor plan is the same for the 1919. The 1918,1919 and 1920 six cylinder roadsters were all on the 118" Wheel base chassis so I think the bodies were the same. 1921 had a different body shape. Rod

Chris The seven passenger had a 124' wheel base. Th 5 passenger had a 118' wheel base. Also the front seat on the 7 passenger was straight. Yours looks like a 5 seater Model E-45 Touring, if there are no small folding done seats in the rear. Rod

Peter. Start your own Thread, you will get more reply,s. Go into Buick- Pre War and click onto New Thread

Phil The chassis number on my 25 is on left hand side behind front wheel. Riveted to chassis See photo.

Thanks Everybody, I have the locking nuts with Ash wheels Detroit on them. Some are bronze and others are aluminium . Also have four good 21" wheels and a number of 22"wheels in not so good condition, pitting on inside of rim. The rear axle I have has different brake,s to the one,s on the car.

Picked up wire wheels and axlse,s for a 1925 master Buick, but not all of the wheels are the same. Some with low central hubs and others with raised hubs. Also the brake mechanism,s are different on the two axlse,s. See photo,s. These are both different to the brakes on my 1925 master. I have wooden wheels on my car, thinking of changing over to the wire wheels. Any advice. Rod

Bernie Buick had the same box behind the front seat in their Opera coupe Rod

John These fan hubs run in an oil bath. They probably wore out when the oil wasn,t replaced. 30 years ago I replaced one with a roller bearing that fitted over the shaft, and braissed a tube for it to run in to the fan driven pulley assembly. Never leaked oil after that. Rod

Clint That frame/chassis number fits into the 1923 range. 4 cylinder 826497 - 1060178 6 cylinder 879623 - 1064325 916420 looks like about the middle of the 1923 range but Dave Corbin will be able to tell you exactly A plaque on the fire wall will tell you the model eg 6cylinder tourer model 23-45 Rod

John The engine number is 702668 but I was not able to find the Chassis/ frame number, must have been removed at some time. This places the engine towards the end of 1920. The previous owner who baught the car in about 1980 said it came from Melbourne Australia and was originaly a tourer before the sedan body was built on it in 1925-26. This sounds right, as the body construction looks more middle to late 20,s than early 20,s. Also it has 21 inch wheels. Attached is photo of where car was originaly purchased, sombody in Melbourne might have information on Lanes Motors, Buick dealers Most Australian body,s were built in Adelaide [Aust] by Holden but I think sedans were all Fisher body,s comming out from America [i might be wrong here]. This car not having rear suicide doors sugests it was a localy made body in Melbourne Rod

Could anybody give me an approximate cost of transporting a car from Chicago area to either Los Angeles or New York Rod

Thank,s Bill and Tom. My wife and the children are heading over to USA next month but unfortunately I can,t get over at the moment. Got the car home last weekend an 800km round trip.I think thats about 500 miles. Slow trip home because the trailer would get a sway up over 80km/h and a hilly winding road, in many cases having to get off the sealed section of road when a truck coming the other way. Anyway got the car home. Its got a rumble That comes and goes, sounds like the front of the engine. Do the gears that drive the water pump and generator make a noise when worn. I was told the sedan body was built on the car in 1925 by a local body builder. Rod

Just baught a 1920 Buick sedan. I saw the car 30 years ago, just after the elderly owner had finished restoring it. It has been sitting in his daughters garage for the last ten years up on blocks and has not been run for more than ten years. Will get some better photo,s when I pick the car up and get some numbers so Dave Corbin can positively identify it. Am looking forward to getting it home and getting it started Rod

Catrinus. click on Buick pre-war. click on NEW THREAD. This will start your own thread [ story]. At the moment you are in the thread 1927 Buick sharp clutch

Ben My 25 master manual reads. drive out tapered pin in generator coupling. Hold heavy block underneath so as not to spring shaft. Remove plate on end of generator.Remove cap over rear shaft bearing and slide generator coupling forward. Remove packing nut at front end of shaft which will uncover the bushing. Drive out the taper pin in this bushing. Remove three cap screws holding front bearing assembly to gear case and slide assembly forward. Id this the same as your instruction manual. I have a 25.55x and am in Bundaberg. Rod PS It might be easier to remove generator first.

Mark you were right I did build a wooden tray on the back. I was able to pick up a tub and rear doors from a 1927 tourer but the moldings didn,t match up with the 25 front. For a 17 year old it was too complicated and no other cars to compare it with, so just built the wooden tray. See photo,s of before and nearing completion. But now with a few more years under my belt and a complete car, am looking forward to getting into another 1925 Buick. Thanks 50jetback. The car has come with many spares. I will be joining the Qld branch of the buick car club and as you said the Buick Club of America. I,ll contact you through the buick club of WA, it woud be good to get photo,s of the upholstery and the hood of the members car for details

Thanks Leon a lot of the hard work has been done, mechanicals ,engine,new woodwork, better than starting from scratch Rod

Baught my first Buick 40 years ago, Worked picking oranges over christmas at $40 a week to save up the $150, A 1925 standard tourer that had been converted to a ute. Just baught another 1925 a 25-55x. Now will have to join the local Buick club in Queensland Australia.

This looks like a 3-passenger Cabriolet Model 24-54-C. Only 1,107 were built in 1924as it was introduced late in the season. The six cylinder models were on either a 120 or a 128 inch weelbase with a 255 cubic inch engine

I don,t know if loosening the rear engine mount bolts would still allow enough movement to be able to lift the front of the motor (being solid mounts as well as a lip along the top of the engine mount casting) preventing any turning of the engine

Dave Its been 30 years since i had my buicks, a 25 tourer and a 23 tourer so the brains a bit rusty, but I seem to remember having difficulty getting the gear cover off because you can,t lift the engine up high enough. I think I might have had to remove the main engine bolts at the back of the engine (rear engine mounts) to be able to lift it up,but they were very difficult to remove especially with valance panels on. I had the body off my car making it easier. Hopefully somebody else might know if there,s another way. Rod

The roadster is for sale $10,000 but not the 17 tourer. I didn,t ask about the 23. he said it would take about two days to get it out. Asked about getting photoes, he said it would be too difficult but if somebody from AACA could get there they could take photoes. Said there were boxes of spares in the loft, I,m looking for a 17,18,19, roadster but am from Australia. The logistics of getting a car in pieces over here?

Thanks Dave I,ll phone him

Dave What price did he have on these Rod

Roger In a 1918 tourer I had, the wood between the cowl and door pillar was not connected. The cowl wood tappered off towards the end all held together by the bolts through the cowl metal brackets. The door pillars were attached to these same metal brackets. Also being attached to the metal dash board. Rod