Long Roof

I noticed my water pump pulley has a wobble to it. I need a new one in good shape. Needs to fit a 1956 322. Let me know what you have. Thanks

That one I had out had a small pin hole leak in the sheet metal causing a small coolant drip. Put a little epoxy on it and so far so good. If you have an internal leak I would try an old radiator shop and see if they can fix it up.

Here are some photos of what the cooler looks like with the 1953 transmission out. It may be difficult to remove while the tranny is in the car. There are two bolts that hold the cooler bracket onto the transmission. You can see one of the bolt heads in the first photo. You may be able to get your hand or a socket back there while it is in the car. Your leak could be a transmission fluid line and a coolant line, or something going on inside the cooler. Good luck.

I think I have seen the clips listed with either Cars Inc. or Bobs Automobilia. Check their online listings. Maybe you will get lucky.

I just put a radio in my '56. With the dash pad off, it was real easy to install the radio from the top. My car came without the radio so I don't have experience taking it out, but I can't see that there would be any problems. Everything is accessable with the top of the dash off. Taking the dash pad off was alot easier than I expected it to be too.

Hope this helps.

I rebuilt my power steering pump and used the same Dexron as the Dynaflow uses. So far so good. No issues to report, but the GM fluid mentioned may be a better option. I don't think the Dexron will hurt anything.

Thanks for the information JohnD. I have not had time to get back to the car to do more checking. I am pretty sure I had voltage off the terminal on the back of the switch that is supposed to feed the lights. I will double check to be sure. If it has power, there must be a break in the wiring somewhere. Now that I know how to remove the switch I will pull it, get it cleaned up and test operation. I did find a section in the shop manual on the light switch and thermal circuit breaker operation. I think I need to spend some quality time with my wires.

Well I got my speedometer repaired and put back into the dash. While everything was opened up, I changed all the bulbs too. Now when I hooked the battery back up, I have no dash lights. Head lights, turn signals, map light all work. The shop manual shows the dash lights coming off the headlight switch. I checked the wire on the switch and have power, and the dimmer seems to work too. Voltage ranges from around 9v to a little over 12v. No separate fuse protects the dash lights, but there is supposed to be a circuit breaker on the head light switch. I am not sure what I am looking for here. Is this something that must be manually reset or is it automatic? I did see a little metal button on the top of the switch housing. It has a small spring under it. Pushing it does not seem to do anything. Anybody have any suggestions? By the way, pulling the gauge cluster was a pain in the butt.

I used a vacuum pump to suck the old oil out. Refilled to the level of the fill plug with 85w90 oil. I have used that oil in other cars so I hope is is fine in the Buick. I don't have many miles with new oil change but everything sounded fine with it.

I am looking for a split rear seat for my 1956 wagon. I have the standard solid seat but thought I would try to locate a split one before I redo the interior. Condition is not too important. Let me know. Thanks, Steve

Thriller and Budd win the prize. I did find a section in the Buick Product Service Bulletins that states: "Recently a change went into production whereby the hood ornament grill was changed from a screen type to a solid plate. This change was made because it is very susceptible to foreign material. Although no difficulty has been experienced with the first type, the change was made only as a precaution." I have a spare scoop with the open mesh. I will give it a try sometime when I get a chance.

Wow what an inspiration. You don't get near as dirty and it looks so good too. I always enjoy seeing pics like that.

That is interesting. I do agree that any real benefits would seem to be more preception than reality.

My 56 Century has a non-functional hood scoop. That is, the grill at the back of the scoop is solid with the holes painted on. No air would go through. I have seen some scoops with an actual grill that would let air through. Were the functional scoops just used on the Super/Roadmaster cars, were they an option? Would a functional hood scoop be a benefit besids letting hot air to vent when the car is parked? I'm sure somebody knows what the deal is.

Rick, As a guy from Iowa I'm sure you know your corn! That is central Illinois finest behind the car. I got the car to where I am not afraid of getting stranded when I take it out now. Had to redo the brakes, new water pump, freeze plugs, starter rebuild, carb rebuild, tires, radiator, power steering pump rebuild, electronic ignition, shocks, sway bar,tranny rebuild (ouch) and a few things I have forgotten. Other than that its a solid car. Really though, most of the stuff has been typical maintenance work. The car had not been driven for 20 some years. Fun to drive now.

I just received my newest issue of the Buick Bugle. I think it is my 4th issue since I joined the Buick Club of America. I have not read all of it yet, but it looks to be the same high quality as the first several issues. I am new to the Buick scene and am learning from those more experienced. Great web site, great magazine, great help. Thanks Steve

Thanks for the replys. My weekend did not go as planned, and I didn't get out to the shop. Leif, your photo shows the connection behind the manifold. I thought maybe it was supposed to go in the hole on the just above the spring in my photo. What is that for. Looks to be about 1/4" diameter by 1/4" deep and does not go all the way through. 54BuickDoc, thanks for the clarification in terms. It can get quite confusing when the trems are interchanged. It's been quite awhile since I have had this type of car and vintage. My stovepipe fitting seems to be frozen, but must be in the open position. Is it best to leave it be, or should I use a rust penetrant to try to loosen it up. Steve

I have soaked cloth items in citrus hand cleaner overnight and had decent success. The stuff really breaks down the old grease. I agree though, if you are concerned with the integerity of th belts, best to replace.

I'm not sure of the proper term, but I am missing the insluated tube that runs from the passenger side exhaust manifold to the choke connection on the carburator. I purchased a replacement tube with the insulating sleeve, but I can't see where or how this would connect to the manifold. Does anybody have a photo of the exhause manifole where the tube connects? Also how was the tube routed up to the carb? I've got the car up an running pretty well now, but it runs rich. I really need to get the choke running properly. Thanks fo the help.

I'm kind of like 56BuickSuper. I recently picked up a 56 wagon and found this forum. I am learning quite a lot about the 56, but don't know much about Buicks in general.

I am looking for a set of J bars for my rear bumper. Mine are really rusty. Anybody have a set, any condition? Thanks