Roger Frazee

For a first class dining experience and a step back in time, I'd recommend The Hotel Hershey. http://www.thehotelhershey.com/dining/

Yep. The old courthouse burned in the early fifties.

Attached is a postcard showing Main Street in Urbana, OH. Does anyone know what kind of car is parked in the picture?

I'm sorry to hear that Knox Custom Chrome has apparently closed their doors. They did a set of bumpers for me once and I was very pleased. Many people in our club have used Atlantic Coast Plating in Athens TN and have reported good results. Here is a link to the contact information for Atlantic Coast: http://www.atlanticcoastplatinginc.com/contact-us.html

As far as I know they are still in business. I had not heard of their closing. Try calling them (865) 546-3144.

Beautiful car, kfle, and it sounds like the car is in good hands. This car is a living piece of history as it sits. I would encourage you to enter it as an HPOF vehicle and enjoy being a part of the Auburn meet. The HPOF area is arguably the most interesting section of the show field.

It sounds like you found a diamond in the rough, Christech, and the VIN proves that it is a real Spyder. The price seems right too. Go for it!

A progressive tour through Michigan, from Greenfield Village to Whitefish Point would be fantastic in the summertime.

The TC is a different chassis and body than any other Chrysler product. None of the body panels will interchange with the LeBaron. Some, but not all, mechanical parts come from the K-Car parts bin.

The '89 TC is a fun and extremely comfortable car. I have owned two of them. As mentioned above, the Achilles Heel of the TC is the Teves anti-lock brake system. It is different from conventional brakes, so you will have to find someone who knows how to work on them. Teves brakes were used on Jaguars and Buick Reattas so they are not as rare as it may seem. There is a very active TC owner's forum on this site. Scroll down to the Chrysler section. Good luck!

Lings32, Always glad to meet another Overland owner, There will be a get-together of discussion forum members in the lunch area on Friday, during the lunch break. Maybe we could meet up then.

Schedule permitting, I'm in for a DF meeting.

Dang. They dropped it. I was really looking forward to it. Oh well, hope to see you there.

Thanks Frank. I see that there is an air-cooled seminar at the Annual Meeting in Philly. Will you be there?

I agree that, for some reason, the regulator does not start working until the RPMs increase. It must be set to kick in at a voltage greater than 17.8, which is why I was wondering if there was an adjustment in the regulator. I know the old timers used to adjust the spring tension on the relays to make them work properly. Anyway, I've got a replacement on order. Hopefully it will work better. I'm too stubborn to go back to a solid state regulator if I don't have too. HERE is the link to the part that is giving me problems. Here is the link to the replacement part I ordered today.

OK. I confirmed that the red wire has voltage and I grounded the regulator to the body. Now, I get 17.8 volts when the engine is idling. Also, the alternator whines when the engine is at idle speed and the generator light is on. Above idle speed, I am reading 14.4 volts, the generator light goes out and the alternator stops whining. Just to make sure I had a good ground, I jumpered a wire from the regulator frame to the alternator ground lug. No change. Is there an adjustment within the regulator that needs to be tweaked, or do I have a bad regulator, as TerryB suggested?

Thanks Frank and Certjeff1. I was doing some digging last night and found statements that confirm your advice. I was thinking the rubber grommets were there to isolate the regulator from ground but obviously this is not the case. I will ground the VR today. I'm confident that will solve the problem. The reason I'm changing the VR is because the solid state unit stopped giving me a warning light when I turned the key on. On a Corviar, the warning light is critical as this is the only indication you will have if the fan belt comes off.

You might have better luck if you ask for a laser disc.

Actually, I often do have to explain what company made the Corvair.

Today I replaced the aftermarket solid state voltage regulator on my 1966 Corvair, with a new OEM Delco Remy unit. The new regulator allowing the alternator to overcharge. I am reading 17.2 volts when the engine is running. Also, the alternator light stays on all the time. The light gets brighter as the engine RPMs increase. The regulator is isolated from the body with rubber grommets, as it should be. I experimented with grounding the regulator case and, it caused the alternator to growl. Any advice on my regulator issue is much appreciated.

A shop manual for your car should give you step-by-step instructions. It's easy to get it wrong if you don't follow the correct procedure.

Thanks!

Is there a schedule yet for the seminars and Friday night program?

How about a garage condominium complex, where owner can store their cars, work on them, bond with their neighbors and customize their garages.

Many editors exchange their newsletters in order to get ideas for their own publications. There is also a Google shared drive that holds all of the electronically submitted newsletters in the NAAP program. As an editor, you will have access to this drive, once you sign up for the awards program. It's a great resource.