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About u571

  • Birthday 05/14/1959

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  1. Thanks for all your imput. I will let you know what happens although it may take a few days. Mark
  2. Just to follow up, I removed the connector from the sensor and I have no lights. It is frustrating that so much aftermarket and even ac delco stuff is made in china and mexico! This coolant sensor is all brass with a straight cylinder below the threads as the old or original one looks like zinc with a nib at the end of the cylinder, which I cant seem to source.
  3. Hey, Seafoam when I turn the key to the start position only the green cold light is on. However when I start the car both hot and cold lights are on until the engine gets up to temp and then the hot light remains on...still confused On the horn issue that you responded to, today the main horns are working??-not sure why my trumpet horns don't work though. Several years ago I took them apart and cleaned the scale from the diaphrams and re assembled them after restoring. Could this be a grounding issue? Thanks, Mark
  4. I recently got my riv back from having a turn signal issue resolved and an indicator bulb replaced because I couldn't get my hand in there far enough for the right side, although I painfully changed the left side. Now my horn doesn't work but I hear a buzzing at the relay? when I apply the horn bar. I also have the 4 note set up but those two trumpets never worked even though I rebuilt them-and they sure do look cool even though they don't work. Anyone have a suggestion? I know the mechanic had the steering wheel off to adjust the signal switch. Thanks, Mark
  5. I have just replaced my coolant/temp. sensor for the second time and I now get both the cold(green) light as well as the (red) hot light. The green light will go out when the engine warms up but the red light stays on. The last time I replaced the sensor it worked for a short time and the red light came on intermittently and later was on full time. Also no cold light. I also replaced the connector with a new one today but both hot and cold lights are still lit. Both of these brass replacement sensor switches have a different look than the possibly original one I first replaced. Also note that before I installed the sensor, I connected it and touched it to the block and only the green cool light came on. Would Teflon tape be a factor here? Any intelligent help would be appreciated.
  6. Ok, I was wrong about removing the inner door panel but no problem as I am replacing the window fuzzy weatherstrips anyway. It goes without saying-Remove ALL congealed grease from the power unit gears and window roller tracks and relube. Also clean out all pivot points and relube them. If I wasn't curious about how the old gear was worn I wouldn't have noticed a spacer washer stuck to the bottom of the old gear! I am happy to report that now my vent window functions and the cocked door window now tracks true. Im not so sure how that happened except I found a missing screw sitting at the bottom of the door skin. I recommend tightening all fasteners before re assembly . A quick note, I replaced the door handle gaskets which I had purchased from rubber the right way and they are a very poor fit which is no surprise as the door weatherstripping is total crap and like the upper window seals,self destructed in a short time. I will stick with CARS or STEELE products...maybe one in the same. Thanks Tom, you were right about removing the vent window housing first. Mark
  7. Pete, only the bottom surface is painted,the sides are chrome. I have 2 original 63 spears to confirm this. Happy masking!!! Mark
  8. Plenty of time spent cleaning, prepping paint surfaces and masking. If I remember right it took me 42 hours to sand,polish,mask and paint my turbine wheel covers. This was after media blasting them. Mark
  9. I am attempting to replace the power vent window gears with new bronze ones. After removing the outer door skin it appears I need to remove the inner trim panel to access the motor mounting bolts. Any general advise on servicing this unit? Thanks,Mark
  10. My beautiful white/red 63 Riviera seems like the Rodney Dangerfield of cars at the shows !(it don't get no respect) I have seen people gravitate to my friends Cadillac SLR red P.O.S 63 riv both while driving it and at a show. There is no accounting for taste I guess
  11. As far as opgi,I have complained before but the latest is that they wont send me a check for a 74 dollar credit due to them sending me an incorrectly advertised part(crap quality also) because I no longer have the visa card I used for the purchase.Store credit only and a manager wont call me back...again.Really makes me want to spend more money with them?! also as previously stated-watch out for metro brand weatherstrip,flimsey fragile junk,and not just my opinion. Mark
  12. I recently bought a booster/master set up from "booster dewey" at power booster exchange in portland or. I think his prices are reasonable and he is quite knowlegable.You can find him on the web or look him up in the riview I find when dealing with these parts warehouses you are on your own and in my experience..."you cant put a price on agrivation"! Mark
  13. u571


    I will be showing my 63 locally on saturday at the Buick/Cadillac show at Royal Buick in Tucson.I will try to post pics soon. Mark
  14. u571


    Hi Carl, I read your post and agree with everything you said.I wont go on and on about my restoration experience but they tip the scale at disapointing in terms of quality and I have ordered from everyone...almost. What I would like to stress to my fellow first gen. restorers is that while rubber the right way is a pleasure to deal with,any weatherstripping pieces made by Metro are total CRAP!.While a lot more expensive and an $18 dollar increase over the catalog price!! I re ordered a pair of door seals from Cars and the fit is superior and the little black fasteners go right in.Unlike Metro brand which bend and self destruct.I dont know who supplies the seals for Cars as they re package but they have the important metal loop which is critical for keeping the upper seal area straight and tight.Now I must replace the upper roof rail window seals as the mitered corner section split on the joint with in 2 months! Between evilbay and some suppliers I have wasted a lot of cash.I may be pickier than your average person but poor quality is no excuse. Also I love that the genuine GM resto parts are made in Taiwan. My 63 engine bay is now complete and based on my research,looks damn close to factory.A joy to behold for sure and only took between 80 and 100 hours!! This is my first stock restoration and every completed task is really rewarding and very addictive.I hope others share the passion. Good luck on your projects,Mark
  15. I meant hole, not whole
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