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About BuickWildcat401

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  • Birthday 09/19/1956
  1. I just called and ordered all four at what I consider a bargain price. Many thanks, Mike and have a great week. Mike
  2. HAS ANYONE GOT A SET OF 4 WHEEL CENTER CAPS FOR A 71 - 73 RIVIERA? These are about 3" in outside diamenter with a 2" or 2&1/8" interior diameter and are for use on the ralleye wheels. If not, can you recommend a source? Thanks, Mike
  3. Hello, I need a set of 4 center caps for my 73 Buick Riviera. Can you help? If not can you send me in the right direction? Thanks, Mike
  4. Thanks Steve. I should have figured it would take more work than it looked like. I was hoping I could remove the shocks and have almost a direct fit with the brackets and bumper from a 71 or 72. You know, the brackets and bumper are not too expensive (used). I may just give it a shot. It would be worth it in the end as that 73 front bumper is really ugly. Thanks Again, Mike
  5. Guys, I am restoring my '73 Riv. I love every inch of it except the 5 mile per hour factory bumper. The rest of the body including the rear bumper is a work of art while the front bumper looks like Pinocchio's Nose! I gotta believe the front frame will accept the brackets and braces for a 71 or 72 Riv front bumper. Has anyone here switched out one of these? These days you gotta buy the parts before you can check 'em for measurements. These Rivs aren't found in the junkyards here in S. Fla. Thanks, Mike
  6. I am looking for a set of 4 (or more) wheel center caps for my '73 Riv. Any suggestions? They should be of very good condition. Thanks, Mike
  7. Ok Boys I finally corrected the problem and you won't believe what it was. A guy that owns his own shop advised me that many rebuilt alternators are done incorrectly. On the rebuild line parts are often left off. All the alts I bought were from Pep Boys and all rebuilt in Mexico. There is a small cover that should be placed over the internal regulator. If left off it may not matter in many cars but in others it will send a low voltage signal (engine off) that illuminates the generator bulb in the cluster panel. I went through three Pep Boys alternators and they all had this condition. The shop owner got a reliable one (he used to have an alt rebuild shop) from a trusted source, installed it and the problem is gone. Amazing - I would never have thought of this possibility but hopefully this will help someone else who has had the same problem. Thanks for your assistance guys. Mike
  8. Internal regulator. Checked out (passed) on test bench. Usually these things are obvious but sometimes ya gotta go deeper and I am thinking it's behind the dash. Fortunately the wiring is almost virgin with very little hacking. Thanks, Mike
  9. Thanks Tom. Everything works electrically on the car. Quite amazing actually - even the rear window defogger motor and trunk release! I get your point though about a component. When I first got the car the batt was tiny - the guy put one in cheap enough to start it I guess. The generator light continuously flashed on and off with engine running. No gen light when ignition was off. When I changed the batt the generator light went out when running but I was very surprised to see it when I turned engine off and took key off. I am thinking it may be in the dash - possibly the resistor. There is a dual switch resistor that is attached to the ignition switch which is wired to the alt and bulb. I am guessing it is on the plastic printed circuit board behind the generator panel but will check. Thanks again and I'll let you guys know what happens. Mike
  10. Tks Tom I will look for grounded wires. I have so many things disconnected its gonna take time but I'm in no rush.
  11. Crap. Now the alt checks out okay (no blown diodes) but the generator light is still on with the ignition in the "off" position (or key removed for that matter). I checked grounding from the alt housing to the block and get .2 ohms so that is good. At this point I can only think there is a closed circuit when the ignition switch is in the off position. That would lead possibly to the resistor between the switch, generator light bulb and alt. I'm guessing it's on the printed circuit sheet on the back of the instrument cluster. Any of you guys ever have this problem? Thanks again, Mike
  12. Hey Boys, Just got back from vacation and did more diagnostic work on my Riv to try and find out why I am blowing the diodes in my alt (3 of them!). I've checked all wires for resistence, isolated all components, cleaned and repaired any and all wiring and connections to no avail. BUT!.........I may have finally found the problem ( I hope ). When I bought the car the previous owner had a very small battery in it that resulted in a consistent flashing of the "generator" light when the engine was running. It finally went solid red. I replaced the alt and batt. The old batt was a Walmart, tiny cheapy. I got a BOSCH 760 CCA (cold cranking amps) recommended by the parts store of course. I kept blowing alts with all new installed. Finally checking the manual I see where the spec CCA is about 360 - HALF of what I have in there in the batt. I gotta believe that is what's blowing the diodes in the alt. What do you guys think? Thanks, Mike
  13. But if any you boys read and think something differently please let me know. Thanks again to all and I will certainly keep you informed of what happens and the eventual success of this "Last Year - One Year Body Style' Boat Tail Riviera. Mike
  14. Okay Boys I am Back! After reorganizing from vacation return I got to work again on my RIV. I replaced the positive diodes after cleaning all contact points, checking all resistance in wires on both positive and negitive sides and a general going over of the charging and starter system. I found no wiring problems after my repairs. I replaced the diodes in the alternator (thanks) but they blew again......! Okay, now I decided to sit back and rethink................. When I bought this baby the alt was flashing on and off so I knew there was a batt, alt or wiring problem. I tested every damn wire, replaced the alt 3 times / rebuilt the last one myself with advice from this great forum - but blew it too! Now...............they say you miss the obvious first. I hope that is true because the new batt I bought is DOUBLE the CCA (cold cranking amps) of spec. Certianly this could knock out the diodes in the alt. (Buying a '73 Riveria Shop Manual is priceless !).
  15. Great advice on alt reassembly. Many tks. U guys just saved me a bundle. I'll let u know how things go once I return from vacation & work on my midnight blue riv baby again. Mike