ReattaPDX

OK, I tried the trick with the 1 inch block of wood, but used compressed styrofoam instead as I couldn’t find a piece of wood to work. I even made it a bit bigger in case it compressed a bit, which it didn’t. It does close most of the way down now, with just a little sticking up. I noticed that there seemed to be a bit of slop or play in the hinge assembly and/or the shocks. The added pressure on the affected side seems to help with getting it in place. BTW, to all concerned I even removed most of the foreign matter . I really need to get a small leaf blower or something.

Thanks Wayne. But if I am only testing one side, why do I need two pieces? thanks, Luke

You got a point, but I seriously doubt that is what is causing the problem LOL. Hey, I live in Oregon, and we have more trees here than there are people in the US. Probably.

Sorry it took so long for the pictures. It still is not closing right as evidenced by the picture with hood closed. I wonder if it is an issue with the hinges, and therefore not closing properly? I know.......wishful thinking. There is a crease on the outer edge of the hood right above the area where the hinge attaches to the hood. I didn’t see until right now. Not sure if the other side matches it, but I doubt it. Maybe if I got someone very overweight to sit on the edge where it juts up?

I ‘think’ that they are the original. The hood closed so much better once the hinges were oiled.

Thanks JobFan. Will take a picture and post tomorrow. I don’t see any creases or dents on that side of the hood, but yeah I agree that it is plausible. I should had lubed the hinges before it got so bad, but I guess I just assumed that it was the struts wearing out.

I have a 88’ coupe that has been basically unused for the last year and is out in the elements. I have noticed that the last few times when I needed to move it that the hood was resisting going up and down. Tonight I was hooking the battery up to move the car and the hood was resisting more than usual. When I closed it I noticed that it jutted up a good inch or two on passenger side close to window. I opened it back up and lubed all of the hinges, and while it moves much free now, I am still getting the gap. Did I damage it by essentially forcing it too many times? I don’t see any dents or bent hinges, and the air shocks seem to be working well. I am stumped....any hints or tricks to make it close properly? Thanks a million, Luke

Well I ‘had’ a job up until 2015 or so. Then I left it to be my moms full-time caretaker for over five years. She has dementia, and I really wasn’t really prepared for it. And my family wasn’t too much of a help either as far as moral support, and it turned into a 24/7 job. The whole thing got ugly, and I think that I was just glad to do nothing after all that stress. Plus I had been working since my early teen years with no real break in-between, and being her caretaker really did a number on me. My wife said that I looked like a holocaust survivor by the end. So you can see why I wasn’t fired up to jump back into the workforce after that..... and especially at that age and right in the middle of Covid-19. I still have other interests, but they just shifted slightly. I just lost a bit of my youthful “gung-ho” attitude towards work, not to mention my fickle long term history of hobby mongering.

You are right Barney. I have been trying to will myself into getting back interest in my old hobbies and such, but it ain’t working! I am not ‘that’ old, still haven’t reached 60, but close, but I have packed a lot into those 59 years. Some good and some bad, but at some point I think I burned myself out. Even my large collection of A/V equipment and music goes untouched. Maybe I just need a good kick in the seat of my pants. Any takers?

I don’t. The Genesis is in my wife’s name......though I talked her into buying it as she had never even heard of the brand previous.

Yeah I might just take off the liability insurance and “garage it” on my wife’s policy. I have already let the registration lapse, so I am already half way there in temporarily abandoning it. I love the car but it seems silly to keep everything up if it only gets 100 miles a year on it tops. Luckily I have a place to safety park it.

Hi All. My quandary is this...... I am the proud owner of a 1988 Coupe. Early production with suede bolsters and I have it kept it up pretty well considering. It has roughly 70-80000 miles on it and she has been running good the last couple of years as I sold my last car and dumped the proceeds into the Reatta. It has never been driven much, and even less now that I am semi-retired and we have a newish Genesis sedan. My driving of ‘any’ car has been minimal for the past few years, and frankly I have lost the love of driving and don’t even like being on a freeway. I think that being a professional driver for so long kind of shook me a bit. The quandary is this. I am “retired “ but I also have no $ coming in, and can’t get SS for a couple years. I hate trying to pay for insurance, maintenance and registration if I am not using it and have to dip into our joint savings. Realistically, what can a 1988 bring on the market now? I have done some, a lot, of recent work on it including paint and interior, but it has a couple flaws and is not a show car. It is white without a sunroof, and it has been an Oregon car all of its life. Here is a picture of the interior:

OK thanks everyone. I thought I had given the model year, and apparently I hadn’t. Well according to the last post it is working as should. Maybe I just needed something to obsess about with my car so it wouldn’t seem like I was neglecting it? When issues pop up it usually ends up costing big $ as there are always other things going on too. Gotta keep on top of things 🙂.

Ok, I checked the fan(s) operation through the CRT diagnostics and they both work. But...... the pusher fan is not coming on in AC mode, even when in “Auto” mode. Am I missing something? Isn’t the pusher fan supposed to engage when AC is running? I am so confused.

Thanks Ronnie for the tips. I guess I am confused as it was my understanding that the “pusher” fan goes on with the AC. But in this thread it says that it goes on when reaching 237 degrees I think it is. So which one is it? https://forums.aaca.org/topic/153917-cooling-fan-problem/?tab=comments#comment-731862 Thanks

I switched around all of the fan relays and still it doesn’t work. I even refastened the connector underneath the air filter box as someone on a different thread had luck by that. No dice. Would it make sense to assume that the fan is DOA and just replace it? Is it easy to replace seeing as it is pretty accessible? I assume the shroud at the front would have to come off. Thanks

Thanks Ronnie & Barney for the tips. It is too hot for a couple days to do any investigating on the car, so I will have to put off until it cools to look into it further. Doesn’t the 88’ have it’s fuses and relays inside of the car by passenger footwell? The electric connector going to the pusher fan looks like it has a lot of buildup on it almost like the fan has been inoperable for awhile. The puller fan is working though and I had a new thermostat installed a few years back.

My understanding is that the pusher fan is for the AC and should be on during AC operation. Correct? Then can someone explain (in layman terms) the best way to check if relays are working and also how to check fan(s) through diagnostic mode. Obviously the relay for the puller fan is working as the fan works. That would help me greatly. I see that there is a way to check operation of fans with car off through diagnostic mode and that is also what I am looking for. Thanks for any help.

Thanks Barney. I could had sworn I saw a post that said that during the self-check that the car does at startup that it checks for operation of both fans. And if you checked the codes or the diagnostic screen from the CRT it would alert you to a problem. Did I read that wrong? Thanks

Hi all. Have not been here for awhile and evidently they changed password requirements as I had to renew mine. Why the need for such a long password for just a hobbyist forum? Oh well........ Anyway, I was reading up about the Reatta today and someone mentioned that they were having overheating issues with their 1988. I have the same problems with mine, but usually on just hot days. I then came here to find my answers on the forum and found some old messages regarding fan operation......or lack there of. Someone suggested checking both radiator fans in both AC mode and normal mode. The back fan comes on but when I turned on the AC the front one did not. I guess that is the “Pusher” one that blows air across the radiator. I checked the codes and no present or past codes regarding the cooling system. I can post a video if that would be helpful showing what is going on? I did not see any blade movement at all when AC was turned on, and I can clearly see it from underneath and through the air dam. thanks 🙂👍🙂

Hello. I have had 2 different CRT's come down with the same problem. They both stopped displaying normally and had nothing but a straight vertical line down the middle of the CRT. I even tried swapping out a good CRT controller on both of them and nothing. Do you think this could be something else that is causing this? They both still accept input so that part of the system is working. I looked at the wiring harness at the CRT end and it looks good. Everything else works in the car such as dash, etc. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

I checked the codes and there are no current "E" codes. Just a couple codes related to the Air conditioning system. The car is running fine so unless something catastrophic happens I will not worry too much about it. Thanks for the tips.

Hi, my 88' Reatta with 65,000 miles has had a problem lately where the "service engine" idiot light comes on briefly as well as the message on the CRT "Engine Controls/Electrical Problem detected". I have also noted a strong exhaust smell that I don't seem to recall before a recent tune-up, nor was I getting any check engine messages previous. The car just had a recent tune-up with new plugs and wires as well as a new fuel filter. Had a new ECM installed within a few thousand miles as well as a new cam sensor. Right before I had it tuned up a few weeks back it was running a little sluggish so I added some fuel system cleaner. I talked briefly to a fellow who suggested that the fuel system additive might have thrown off the O2 sensor and might take a few tanks of gas to return to normal. He did not notice the strong exhaust smell that I did but maybe I am just being overly sensitive. I am going to pull the codes this evening when I get home but am wondering if anyone else has experienced the same thing? The "Service Engine" light has only came on a few times and will generally turn off within a minute or so. thanks