• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About asinger

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/31/1970

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  1. Further updates on the Ignitor II/leaking coil issue. As mentioned, I put the points back in and installed a new Accel coil, and after gapping the points the right way (and wiring it correctly), it started right up. I ordered a replacement Ignitor II. The next day I drove the car 20 miles to a car show and the difference between points and Ignitor II was immediate. The car had awful performance, knocking and pinging the entire way. Going up hills was near impossible. At the show I spoke to a knowledgeable acquaintance who knows quite a bit about HEI systems and said the coil had gotten hot, started leaking, caused an internal short, and blew out the Ignitor. So, I was satisfied with that assessment. My replacement Ignitor II arrived and I installed it, no problems, except the MSD coil had stronger spark than the Accel, so, I am planning to replace the Accel coil with the proper Pertronix unit as is prescribed. Today at a car show I spoke with a guy who installed an HEI system in his car, and I told him about my performance issues. He said the spark plugs need to be regapped at .045. He said that once he regapped his plugs, his car ran just as it was supposed to, instead of some sluggishness that I am experiencing right now. So, that's next. I wonder, too, about Ignitor II issues people have had. I have read complaints online about them. So, were they defective units? User error? Improper coils? Nobody ever seems to say. Most of what you read is this: My POS Ignitor II crapped out on me and I put the points back in and car runs fine now. And that's all they say. What happened?
  2. Glad to hear it! Enjoy driving that truck in the nice October weather and be sure to take it to a car show or two.
  3. Something like this just happened to me. In my own case, I had no spark. It turned out I didn't have the coil wired right (pos to ignition, neg to distributor/points). I also didn't have the gap set right on the points. The gap was not closing all the way to complete its circuit. I would suggest looking at the simple wiring first. It's what I finally did. After a week.
  4. Thanks for the reply. I know what you're talking about, with a resistor, and this particular model and engine did not include it. I also checked the coil with meter (secondaries and primaries) and found it to be in spec. The main problem throughout the whole experience was lack of spark. Much of the time I assumed it was the coil and was ready to replace it until I finally tested it. I also had a spare backup coil on loan and it tested the same way. If I were to decide to keep the point system, then I would definitely have to replace them. They're old and worn, but they do work. And the dwell would have to be properly adjusted, and maybe the weights and springs etc etc. The car performed so much better with the Ignitor II that I'd like to replace it.
  5. Last Thursday was a gorgeous day and I took the old car out for a ride with my wife (the car is a 1967 Mercury Park Lane convertible). It went well until it wouldn't start. I saw oil on the coil wire going to the distributor. Two asides: last year my old coil died (it was the OLD coil) and I replaced it with an MSD Blaster 2 coil. No problems until a couple of months ago when I saw oil on top of the engine. I had no clue where it was coming from. ALSO, last month I replaced the points with a Pertronix Ignitor II, after much research and talking to people about it (and a very helpful thread I started here). After some retuning, the car was running awesomely with NO KNOCKING AND PINGING! FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER! And it's been doing GREAT! Nice acceleration, especially up hills. Until last Thursday. After the car wouldn't start, I saw the oil on the high voltage plug and realized the coil was leaking oil. I dried it off and replugged it in and it started and ran fine. I checked online and discovered a lot of complaints about MSD coils leaking oil. I figured mine was okay for the time being. (idiot) Later that day I picked up my 2 1/2 year old daughter from day care in the car. On the way home (10 minutes away), the car died and absolutely would not start. No Matter What. I had to have it towed. I exchanged the coil (Advance Auto Parts took it back as defective) and traded for an Accel coil. If MSD leaks, I didn't want another one that could leak. Finally, after a lot of needless troubleshooting, and figuring it could be the Ignitor II at fault, I put the points back in and . . . It still wouldn't fire. After a lot more needless troubleshooting, I realized I had the distributor low voltage wire going to coil positive when it should have been negative (idiot!) and I didn't adjust the points right (idiot!) so the points never were actually closing. Well, I put the wire in the right place and adjusted the points right and son of a gun, it started right up. And it runs now. Just fine. Deduction: It's the Ignitor II at fault. I did a google search and found out the Ignitor II fails frequently, apparently. But why, nobody said. So here's the question. Did the coil leaking (and possibly overheating) cause premature Ignitor II failure? Or did the Ignitor II somehow cause the MSD coil to fail and start leaking oil? According to a tech at Pertronix I spoke with when I bought the Ignitor II the MSD coil would work with the Ignitor II. Any stock coil works with the Ignitor II. Because I really did like the performance of the engine with the Ignitor II I'd like to replace it with a new one, but I'm wondering where the original fault occured. Did the coil fail first? Or the Ignitor II?
  6. Thank you for the response and all that information! So, you've answered the two key questions about the advance kit and MSD distributor. So, then I'll be working with what I have. I checked the numbers on the carb. It's a Holley 80457-2 0969. I found some specs about it on this page. I looked through Holley's page and couldn't find their spec sheets! I thought I had done that last year. I don't know if this is an 1850 carb you were talking about. I know the "0969" is a date code, meaning it was manufactured in September 1969, or so I understand. And it does have an electric choke. How do I find out if the throttle plates are too far open or too far closed? I looked at the primary plate. I didn't see any holes, just two little brass screws in each (that attach it to the spindle). Regarding its existing distributor. I'm sure it's not original; it has "REMFG" stamped on the side, with "LA G6" or something like G6 stamped below it. I do have a 1967 Ford/Mercury shop manual that's been invaluable since I've owned the car. the manual shows at least three different kinds of distributors for the vechicles, but doesn't specify which is supposed to be for the 410. Given the mystery distributor and questionable heritage and adjustments already in it, what should I do with it? Replace it with a factory original? Replace the points? I believe we looked at them once and saw they were wearing out. I don't believe we've ever done this. I mean, we've done base timing. I'll have to learn how to do this.The plug wires have been checked and doublechecked to make sure they're going to the right places. Thank you again for your help.
  7. It's been a while since I posted last on these forums. In between jobs I've done small projects to my old car, but still have ongoing issues that I am requesting knowledgeable advice about. My car is a 1967 Mercury Park Lane convertible with a 410. I've mostly restored it, and have had the engine completely rebuilt. Cylinders were bored out, bigger pistons put in, etc. The carb is a Holley 4160 600 cfm. I think it was installed a long time ago to replace the carb that is supposed to be with this car, an Autolite. It's always had hesitation issues. Even after multiple adjustments of the accelerator pump, it still hesitates. While others have adjusted it, I have also adjusted it according to information in . And in that video they recommend changing to a higher pump nozzle if hesitation will not go away. This is supposed to cure that. I looked at my carb's pump nozzle. It's a 31. A replacement costs $20. (I rebuilt the carb last year.) Question 1. Will this cure my hesitation issues if I install a higher-sized pump nozzle? And if so, which size do I get? I'd hate to invest $20 a pop to try six different pump nozzles until I finally hit upon the right one. The second ongoing issue is knocking and pinging. I use 93 octane gas. I have dumped in different kinds of octane boost. The timing has been adjusted all over the dial. Nothing cures it. It knocks and pings at highway speed, it knocks and pings going up a hill. And it gets 10 mpg. A car-friend of mine told me that an advance kit installed in the distributor should fix this issue. I have found a good local mechanic who works on old cars and found me an advance kit that sells for $4.95 from It's also on amazon. The kit includes "required weights, springs and bushings." I am willing to pay that mechanic to install this kit into the distributor then do all the necessary timing adjustments. Labor to do so shouldn't be that much. So, question 2. Will this advance kit cure the knocking and pinging issue? Supposedly it can also help with performance and gas mileage. The best thing to do is buy an HEI system. I want to. But can't afford it; I am unemployed. Last year the coil died, so I replaced it with an MSD coil with the tentative plans to also replace the distributor and wires with an MSD pro billett distributor. So, I called MSD last week for advice and costs. The man at MSD said I would need the pro billet distributor, ignition box, and wires. Total cost at around $400. He also said the advance kit will not help and the only recourse is the new HEI system. All right, so I know he works for MSD and is biased. But $400 is not something I can afford on my old car right now. I can go $100 for the advance kit and paying a knowledgeable person to install it and tune it. Advice? Since I am out of a job and can't afford to do much to this car right now, I have been seriously thinking about selling it, but want it to run right before I do. I feel I should get a better price if I can promise that the car "runs perfectly" versus "needs some more work to run right."
  8. 1910 Anon, you raise good points. You're suggesting that the "official" way to make the car an antique is to register it as such with the license branch. I have a "Historic Vehicle" plate on my 1967 Park Lane, but I have seen other 1960s cars on the road with standard plates. Having a historic plate on the car limits you to driving it on the weekends to shows only, but I don't think that restriction actually stops anyone. Nor have I ever heard being pulled over driving one on the weekdays.
  9. Thanks for the insight. It seems that while there is a generally agreed-upon definition of "antique," opinions may vary. And I agree also that a car from 1985, while fitting the definition of antique, might not really be, in the classic sense, an antique car like a 1924 Ford Model T. I always tend to use "old" when describing a dumpy, faded, tired-looking car from the 60s or 70s, that might actually look pretty sharp if fixed up and painted. And then "classic" or "collectible" just opens up new cans of worms. It's good to know that many people might find the 67 Park Lane convertible a collectible car. They only made 1191 of that particular model. That makes it rare, and it sucks finding parts that might only be available in a junked model (like an ashtray door, for instance). But then, it's collectible if other people want them, then their prices go up. I heard they used a Park Lane in the show Hawaii 5-0, but I don't know what year model it was. Found it, it was a 1968:
  10. Okay, 25 years. I wasn't sure about that cutoff year. It's just difficult for me, personally, to consider the 1985 Chevrolet Caprice my parents used to own as an "antique." In the eye of the beholder, I suppose. But what makes a car "collectible?" Just because it's rare, doesn't make it desirable, right?
  11. How do you know what to call your car? I've heard if the car is 20 years old, it's officially an "antique," so that means any 1990 vehicle, i.e. a 1990 Honda Civic, would be considered "antique." Right? I look at a 1950s era Chevy and say "antique." I look at an old Honda Civic and say "old." A 1970 Challenger? Antique, right? Collectible? Old? If it's a piece of crap junk car with no hope for restoration, does that make it an antique? I guess what I'm trying to ask is, when do we use the term "antique?" Or "collectible?" Or just "old?" I have a 1967 Mercury Park Lane convertible, and it's old and I guess antique. But technically not collectible since fewer people want that particular car. Thoughts?
  12. I changed the belt today to a shorter one, by about an inch, and it's on there nice and tight now. And the voltage is finally right! Turned out that all this time it was an undersized belt. At high idle I had a steady 14 volts. At low idle it was 13 volts. I turned everything on, turn signals, too, and it just touched 12 volts. Hurray! But the alternator was making this tictictictictictictictictictictictictic sound. It's never done that before. Suppose the belt is too tight now? allen
  13. The old battery was completely shot, so I had to replace it. The new one has 850 cold cranking amps, so should be more than adequate for the engine. The old alternator, probably original, recently died. Plus, all old belts were really old. I checked the alt belt as you said, and it IS LOOSE. Not flopping around, but it is not tight tight. I can easily push on it. Not an inch of play, but not like a rubber band. The alt is at the limit of its adjustable notch, so I may have to buy a slightly smaller belt. Could that be a problem? I undid all ground connections from body to engine and ground it all down to bare metal, then reattached. I also ground down the part behind the starter relay. Still no change in volt drops. I've done this on a few plug-together connectors under the dash when I was chasing down a horn problem (turned out to be in the horn buttons). So, I don't believe this is the case. The ground strap to engine is on its own bolt. I ground underneath the connector to bare metal. Still, no change. The battery cables seem okay, but I see your point. Since this is yet another expense, this may be saved for a later attempt. I can try clipl leads going to the grounds of the lights, but it isn't just the lights. At engine idle, 12 volts. Turn on lights, 11 volts. Turn on radio +- 11 volts. Turn on heater fan, 10 volts. Headlights are dim. Turn signal clicks slow. As I said above, the alt belt is loose. I can easily turn the alt pulley by hand. Is this a problem? Or is that a dumb question? Thanks, I appreciate everyone's input.
  14. When I was 17 in 1987 my grandfather (mother's side) gave my mother his car when he bought himself a new one. It was a 1976 Ford Granada, (no, it gets worse) with a white vinyl roof and powder blue body. My mother permanently lent the car to me and my sister so we could have a car to drive. I pretty much drove it full time. I hated that car. If the paint job wasn't bad enough, you had to reach through the steering wheel to change radio stations. Gas mileage was okay, IIRC, but I had it over a friend's house when the water pump died. It was about 10 degrees that day, and another friend came over and fixed it. It eventually developed a head gasket leak, and I told my parents I'd like to get rid of it. They said, no, we'll pay to get it fixed. So they did, and I was driving it later to a friend's house when I heard this sudden and very loud CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK from undre the hood. Turned out it threw a rod. Shortly after, I drove it to the junkyard. Runner up is the '85 Chevy Celebrity my FIL gave my wife after we got married. It was a true POS, engine light always on, got 10 miles to the gallon. Finally I paid to get that fixed, and it was one big repair after another. Sensors always going out, etc. Eventually we traded it for a Saturn and never looked back. Saturn ran great.
  15. After I took possession of my 1967 Mercury Park Lane, I was cleaning the crap out of it and inside the glove compartment, I found a 1970s vintage McDonalds coffee stirrer "coke spoon." I still have it in the garage; I read that I could sell it for $5. Maybe I should sell it. It's about time the car started earning its keep.