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Earl

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About Earl

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  • Birthday 03/25/1962

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  1. I lied, there are 5 nuts that need to be removed. Three on the bottom and two at the top. If you look at the two pictures, you'll see where they go through the dash, and you'll see the longer one's on the back side of the panel you're trying to get loose. One of the bolts is twisted off on mine, but you can tell where they are at. I got mine re-nickeled but haven't gotten the jeweling done yet. That's kind of a pricey venture by the time it's done! If you need more pictures though, do let me know and I'll take them. When I painted the lettering back in on my speedometer, I used an
  2. I've got an entire dash loose out in my garage. I've got to move some snow today anyway to get the doors open, but I'll take a couple of pictures and post them. It will be a lot easier for you to see it that way. The nuts are there, but they are a little bit elusive! Once you get that panel loose, you can then remove the instruments MUCH easier than trying to do it without having that panel loose. I had a '41 Buick when I was in High School and I re-wired the entire car without removing any of that stuff. I thought I was never going to get it done, but that's another story. In those day
  3. I could not get my car to run right with a paper filter. I've never been able to figure that one out. I went back to the oil bath, and the car runs fine. Below is how I did mine, and maybe there was something wrong with how I did it. I just figured they knew what they were doing when the system was designed and that's just how it wants (or needs) to be. You can find the right size round paper filter and put it in the center with the filter for the oil bath removed. You then need to plug the air inlet opening so it will pull the air through the filter instead of going through the hole on
  4. My '41 Century is really comfortable at 50 and gets around 14-16 mpg. Sometimes a little more and sometimes a little less. I've had it going 75-80 as well and it will do that just fine, but it's really not a comfortable speed, either for me or it (I'm not sure which) but it will do it. It has the dual carb set-up and once you get that thing sorted out it does seem to run the car just fine. I did finally find a butterfly valve for the rear carburetor from a '42 Buick that will hold the thing closed when the engine is cold. It can be hard to start when it's cold. Buick did make a few slight
  5. If you get up behind the dash, you'll find nuts on the four corners behind that panel. You kind of have to be a contortionist to get to them, but I got one of those 3/8" spring extensions for my socket wrench so once I got the socket on the nut, I could get it removed. I was then able to pull that panel far enough ahead that I could get the instruments loose from the panel and then replace the heat gauge and speedometer. It's easier to do if you remove the front seat so you can lay down on the bottom of the car, but you can do it with the seat in the car, I'm just not as flexible as I was 2
  6. Gosh Grant, I had never heard of getting the transmission out that way. Of course the ship manual gives the route the long way around the horn so to speak! I can figure that one out. It's going to have to come out anyway as it does leak some oil so I might just as well bite the bullet and get it over with. I did also think of cutting a hole in the floor pan, but after getting in there and seeing how much space there would be to actually try and work it that way, I think in the end the transmission might as well come out of there. Everything else on the car has gone fairly smoothly, so hop
  7. 1940 must have been the last year for the transmission inspection hole in the floorboard. At least my '41 Century does not have one. So it looks like it's going to have to sit in the garage until I have the time to remove the drivetrain and drop the transmission. There's just no easy way to do it with these cars with a torque tube. Oh well, it's just the way it goes. I've never dropped the rear end out from one of these things, so I'll have something new to learn!
  8. I'll get that cover off next weekend. WOW that poor old car has had a near death experience! But it does show what that cover looks like. I haven't had any reason to take the floor mats out on this car. The original floor mat is kind of still there so I've just left it alone as it's pretty brittle. I put another mat over the top of it. But it will certainly be no great loss to get it out of there. We used to junk a lot of cars in that condition 35 years ago. Usually the convertibles were the one's with the floor pans like that. Holy cow the cars my Dad hauled to the junk yard. It w
  9. I have only driven it back home after that noise problem. Maybe a mile or so. I didn't realize that the floor pan would open up over the top of the transmission. I'll have to look into that thing next weekend. I'll probably get that thing off the floor pan, and then wash off the transmission as I'm sure it's pretty dirty on top and then see what's going on in there. I do have a NOS 1st & 2nd idler & reverse gear, so it won't be that one! But who knows. I'll post some pictures when I get the old girl opened up. At first I thought it had something to do with the clutch, but it's
  10. Say, this morning this Buick of mine made a small 'clunk' noise and now when the car is in first or second gear it's making a clicking noise as though a gear in the transmission is maybe chipped or something. It doesn't make the noise in reverse until I push in the clutch and the car is coasting backward. Also, when it's in first or second it will stop making the clicking noise when I let off on the gas or when it's not pulling at all. It's not making any noise in high gear. And of course is speed up and slows down with how fast the car is traveling. Any thoughts on this one? Sounds like
  11. If they are the same in a 1941, 320 I might be able to help. I'll have to get up in the garage loft and have a look. I know I have some up there from an engine I got a bunch of parts from. They would be used if you are ok with that.
  12. If you connect it to one of the bolts that holds the starter in place, your starter will usually run better. The guy that re-built my starter seems to be quite convinced of that, and it makes some sense. My engine does crank better with it there.
  13. That's great! You may have some trouble finding a new spring for that. But maybe they are out there. The missing gasket probably had a lot to do with it. I'm going to drop my pan again and see about the oil pump. I'm thinking that the problem with mine has to be in there as well. I did try the 20/50 oil as well and it did help quite a bit with my oil pressure, but it's still now where it should be. But at least now it runs around 20 pounds when it's warmed all the way up. It does drop way down at idle, but I don't think that's unusual. I'm also going to take the cap off my rear main be
  14. Just wondering if you got to the bottom of your oil pressure issues? The floating head on mine was collapsed when I dropped the pan to clean it all out a few years ago. And there was a lot of sludge on the bottom. I was able to my pressure up some, but it didn't change it much for whatever reason. I'm going to drop the pan again this summer and see if something else is going on with the pump. I stretched the spring back out some as well, but that hasn't helped as much as I would have liked it to. My Century has over 60,000 miles on it and who knows what all has been done to it over the y
  15. I will take the manifold off next weekend and try that. I knew that I shouldn't tighten up the bolts so much that the manifold could move some, but it I didn't know anything about changing the washers out until last night when I was reading through the postings after this thing giving me trouble again. The last time I put a copper gasket in there and did put the copper anti seize compound on it and thought that was the reason the gasket worked out of there. So, then I thought maybe the thing is just running hotter than it should. I'm going to order a new set of those washers from Fastenal
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