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About marchi1

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  • Birthday 04/23/1974

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  1. Interested in what would not be original/incorrect on the engine as there are a number of spare bits with each car.
  2. There is a weblink for pictures of both cars in the original post. Also there in lies the issue. I don't know the value for an unrestored and non-running car in the condition and was looking for a little input.
  3. Trying to help my Father-in-law out a little bit, and sorry but I am more of a later model guy so I don't know much about these cars. What I can tell you is that they were brought to Michigan From Florida and when they got here they ran, they currently don't. Overall condition is amazing there is minor rusting on the undercarriage and the rodent damage is actually very minimal. From my review this appears to be OEM paint with no repair or patching. all panels are straight and true. The engine and trans appear to be original and all wiring is there. I am sure with a little work I can get them running, but was wondering about value as they sit (and if anyone is interested let me know). First car is a 1939 Fordor Deluxe Ford Fordor Deluxe Second car is a 1936 Sedan Ford Fordor Deluxe/1936 Ford Any questions about the cars let me know trying to set an value and determine best way to sell them for him.
  4. As probably one of the younger guys to respond (still early 40's) there are a few problems with the classic car hobby/antique car hobby/collector car hobby and some of them have been addressed already but to rehash and cover my points and give you guys something to think about: 1) Cost-many of the vehicles in order to even get into a rusted hulk is still a few thousand dollars, and that doesn't even count the cost of what it will take to slowly work it into something even resembling a "nice" car that's no where close to being a show winner 2) Availability- when was the last time you saw one of the cars listed above at a reasonable price that a younger person could obtain? 3) Desire-This is something that no one really has mentioned. What mad the 50's car so desirable...the group that was buying them wanted them, as the "collector" age moved up and a new crowd is introduced the genre of cars has slowly moved up and is why the 60's and 70's car are now getting harder to find at a reasonable cost? 4) Emotion-many of the classic cars there is some sort of emotional tie in, you saw it as a kid, mom and dad had one, whatever it is, without that tie in there is no reason to get one. Now if grandpa had one may get you in the door, but isn't going to get you invited in for dinner 5) Generation-This is one that no one thinks about. When you start reading about the more recent generations they would rather have a laptop or a cellphone than a car. How do you convince that person that buying a car that they have no connection to is a good idea, let alone something of value? 6) Interest/education-How many kid can work on these cars, shoot I am 40 and barely remember carbs and points. Yes I have a the tools, and even have a vacuum plate so I can balance dual carb set ups, but most kids don't want to get dirty and work on cars unless they have that mentor in their life that shows them how to, again this leads into the how do you get someone interested in this. Also leads into maintaining the car. many times maintaining a new car is a bind on the budget that many people have a hard time affording let alone the cost of rare or hard to find classic car parts (i.e expensive). I can see where restoration shops can be busy, but the cost to restore those cars, and in many cases maintain these cars is quite an issue. I personally have three "fun" cars, but none are older than 1998. Part of it is where I live finding it is a challenge, the other is that what I am currently interested I kind of walked into. What will the next car be, the wife and I are talking something from the 70's or 80's but those were the cars when we were kids that were desirable. Would we like to go 60's or 70's yeah as that is what I grew up on, but again she has no connection to them and is what we played with my dad when we were kids (actually had a 50's lead sled). The other thing is that I could restore a car, but bringing something back to stock is something that most anyone can do, have the ability to modify/tweak to make it my own is my style. That's why it is hard for me to get one of the beautifully restored cars only to know that I want to change it, and thereby destroying all the value. Just my thoughts. I think it will consider but will constantly be shifting...but when you get into the 80's it is even harder to find stuff that has the collectability.
  5. can I come? regal GS is a Gran Sport
  6. Glad to see this is stirring up interest. The big question is how many new people can we get to come out?
  7. Thanks would appreciate it if this could get put on the calendar as well, if possible.
  8. As part of our continued effort to reinforce the Buick heritage, the Buicktown Chapter, in concert with the Back to the Bricks Organization, is bringing you , what we hope to be, a yearly event: "Buicks on Water Street". This event is going to be held the same day as the Back to the Brick event in Downtown Flint, Michigan (long held as the birthplace of Buick), August 15, 2015 this year. This event will be held in front of the Durant-Dort Building and Factory One (the birthplace of Buick). As we are a subset of Back to the Bricks they have already been working with the Flint Visitors Bureau and have information on Lodging in the area: We are on the far north end of the event with our own gate and an easy in and easy out entrance (detailed map to come as we get closer). This is a week long affair for Back to the Bricks, but our show is only one day (Saturday morning) please look here for the additional events: As always we have made a Facebook page as well. this will show the latest in upcoming event, as well as a place to show pictures of this year as well as previous events. If you have any questions, please contact the "Buicks on Water Street" committee that is a part of the Buicktown Chapter. Contacts are: Roger Tyyska David Bloch David Langdon (Contact info to come soon, but most can be found on the new event page:
  9. Having just converted my car over to the style you are talking about there is no option except replacing them. I have been looking at poly, but they will need to be custom made, but I need a spare arm to have it made.
  10. breaker bar on the crank bolt...should be about a 24mm head on the bolt.
  11. Doing what Buicks do best My wife and the Wildcat II Concept at the Buick Gallery at the sloan: Also my friends daughter found mine one while at Back to the Bricks here in Flint: And my daughter helping me on the suspension of my 00 Regal:
  12. The timing cover is located behind the belt side of the engine. the cam magnet is locate up and to the right of the crank pulley as you look at the end of the engine. the sensor itself is held in with a single 10mm bolt. You can see the cam sensor here (granted this is a series 2 engine, not a series 1 like in your car but it should be similarly placed) Removing the accessory belt may get you enough space, but you may also need to remove the power steering pump...Will take a little bit of time (the power steering pump is held in with 3 13mm head bolts). Hope this helps.
  13. There is a bypass pulley you would have to install in order to remove the A/C compressor from the system, you unfortunately cannot just put a different belt on it due to the routing of the system. Typically is is easier to buy a new compressor than to try and rebuild these. Actually I have never heard of anyone rebuilding them.....
  14. 1996 is a little bit of a freak and is kind of a OBD 1.5 (I had a 96 Regal). It has some of the functionality of both and depending on how the reader is set up may or may not get all your codes. Go to Autozone/O'Reilly's/Advanced/NAPA and see what they are using and ask them to check for you and they should give you the right stuff. For the cost of those units you can get a simple scanner at Harbor Frieght and your neighbor hood autppoarts place for less.....all you typically need is a little hand held unit.