Honolulu Dick

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About Honolulu Dick

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  • Birthday 05/30/1936
  1. With reference to comment #3, this thread, the use of Bill Calimer is highly recommended. He has made two replacement wooden wheels for the Honolulu Lulu, a 1917 touring, running with 25-inch, wooden felloe wheels. Steaming the felloes, bending them and allowing them to season in a bending jig to retain their strength and shape, takes months. Shipping from and to Hawaii added greatly to the bottom line. However, now that the new wheels are on Lulu, I am well satisfied with the expenditure of both time and funds. From my experience with him and his work, I have only high praise to offer. The two wheels he made [one front and one rear] are a work of beauty. I wish the remainder of the car looked as good as his work does. I'm planning to send the two remaining wheels to Bill C [one at a time] to have him make new replacements. Earlier repairs [not well done] are failing and termite damage is beyond repair. His work is so excellent, I wouldn't consider dealing with anyone else. A reminder to myself ... don't screw with success! After thought ... ask him to include a couple scraps of wood when shipping the new wheels to you. I mixed stain into a high quality marine varnish and tested it on the scrap wood. Stain was added to the varnish until the color desired was achieved. Wood does not always take stain evenly, so mixing stain into the varnish tends to even-out the color application. Clear coats of varnish can always be added to protect the color coat. Recommend you visit Bill C at: calimerswheelshop.com
  2. The quick and dirty magic number seems to be 61. Divide CID by 61 and you get Ltrs. Multiply Ltrs by 61 and you get CID. 350 CID divided by 61 equals 5.737049 Ltrs. Your old 4-banger DB @ 212.5 CID should convert to 3.483606 Ltrs.
  3. The Honolulu Lulu is a '17 touring. Tranny has been removed and rebuilt - new in-put and out-put bearings and other small parts replaced. Gears showed signs of wear - leading edges somewhat rounded to one side - but, none were chipped, broken or missing. Honed all rough edges smooth. Actually, considering their age, I thought they were in remarkably good shape. Following the recommendation of other DBC members, the tranny has been filled with 1,500 weight [steam cylinder] oil. We can now shift [carefully] without the grinding/clashing normally experienced with straight-cut [spur] gears. What has us on edge is the 1st and 2nd gear growling. My son, a licensed mechanic working for a local Ford dealership, is reluctant to drive Lulu. The loud transmission growling noise has him convinced the gears are excessively worn, being beyond further [reliable] use. With all due respect to his mechanical excellence, his experience with spur gears is zero. How noisy are the early DB transmissions in 1st and 2nd gear? BTW, Lulu is nice and quiet in 3rd gear. Just the way a well behaved lady should be. I'm searching for the benefit of your experience here. Trusting that no one minds. Your thoughts/comments are appreciated. Take good care - - - - - Dick R
  4. Highly recommend you read the thread titled Marvel Mystery Oil, posted 2-days ago. RustyOT gave us a an excellent lesson pertaining to your question.
  5. Adding kero to gasoline in the same ratio as compression is a new one to me. Always willing to listen for new ideas, but the logic behind this one is somewhat suspect. The lubrication offered by kero is on the low side, if at all. It is a decent cleaner when mixed with Gunk for cutting caked-on, hardened grease and then followed with a detergent power-wash. Over the eons, "shade-tree" mechanics have developed many "home-remedies" using kero as a substitute for automotive "snake-oil." Had a friend who owned one of the early Buick OHV straight-eight engine cars, a relatively light coupe. With a three-on-the-tree, that Buick was the quickest thing around town. Whenever it acted sluggish or otherwise didn't perform as expected, it got the kero treatment. After removing the air filter, the engined was raced while kero was poured down the carburetor. That thing blew black smoke like a Kenworth hauling a steep, uphill grade. It kept getting he kero treatment until it finally stalled. After much cranking, it would eventually restart on gasoline and then run faithfully for the next several months. As a cleaner, the kero seemed to have produced positive results. At least in that OHV Buick. Never used it for this purpose myself. The image of all that black smoke left me cold. Until you mentioned it, the thought of adding kero to today's gas would have never occurred to me. The thought is just too foreign, well beyond my comfort zone. Besides, why screw with success? Decades of using MMO as a gas additive have resulted in proven success. One last story. When living on acreage in upstate NY, I was into heavy-duty gardening. Had a pair of Bolens garden tractors that worked double duty in the summer [mowing and tilling] and snow-blowing in winter. When not used regularly, exhaust valves would "hang" in the open position. These units used twin cylinder, air-cooled, opposed, aluminum, Kohler, 18-HP engines. These engines are notorious for cylinder carbon build-up. After dismounting the heads and cleaning the internal thick carbon deposits, these engines got the MMO gas additive treatment. Ran them for years without any further engine problems. Sold them only because of moving to HI
  6. Good Questions. Thanks for asking. I'm always mindful of this topic and appreciate the sage comments offered by those having experience. It's called learning. Being a mid-septuagenarian, I learned about the use of MMO as a teenager. MY mentors were well into their later years, so this topic has its own extended lifespan. Generally speaking, there is no right or wrong. It's more a matter of believing or not believing. Those having years of experience with hard working machinery tend to believe in the use of MMO. Those having less experience tend to not believe. As to question #1. This is not a case of redundancy. These are two entirely separated subjects. One addresses delivery through the pressurized oil system, while the other is delivery through the fuel-flow system. They achieve delivery through differing means and for their own purposes. Question 2. It is often stated that it is NOT recommended to use detergent oil or oil supplements in "older" engines that have their internals "sealed" with carbon deposits. Clean the deposits and they begin to "rattle" and burn oil. In other than newly rebuilt engines, MMO can be expected to cause more harm than good. However, adding MMO to the fuel is beneficial to the valves. No "sticky" valves to hang in the open position and seating is improved by keeping the seats "washed" clean. Question 3. Adding MMO to non-detergent oil defeats the purpose for using non-detergent. The non-detergent is intended to lubricate and not "wash" the internals of older, worn, sludge-sealed engines. Have been using MMO as a gasoline additive for decades. Always use it in valve-in-block engines. Have used it in hard working farm machinery, lumbering, hill-climbing trucks and boat engines. Boat engines are hard workers, they are always pushing uphill ~ they never coast or go downhill. Using MMO, as directed, results in a little extra exhaust smoke. That little extra smoke is a comfort, I know my valves are being coated with TLC. The Honolulu Lulu is a '17 DB touring that is fueled with MMO treated gasoline. She starts in an a blink, purrs like a happy kitten and her valves tick a joyful tune. No, I don't own any stock in MMO. I'm just one who has witnessed and believes. Other opinions, please.
  7. Thanks for sharing ~ ~ ~ Love the flyover theme and the great original artwork. To add an extra measure of joy to your Christmas spirit [screw this winter solstice garbage, it's Christmas] recommend a visit to the website armyparatroopersw.org. Under the heading titled Latest Discussion, click-on: The digital story of the Nativity. [cleverly created] A Christmas card for all my brothers and anyone else of the APO board. [good animation and sound] Santa and the FAA. [unexpected twist] For those who are less timid [having gravel in your gut and spit in your eye], check the one titled, The twelve days of Christmas...airborne style. Be prepared, these are crusty paratroopers who willingly jump into the unknown and who are trained to kill and break things. Their language is not that taught in a "charm school." In Hawaiian, Merry Christmas is Mele Kalikimaka. So, a very Mele Kalikimaka to all of you good Bodge Brother folks.
  8. Long, long ago, my fun jalopy was a Model T runabout. Experience taught me to keep an extra couple of inner tubes on hand. When a tube went bad on the Honolulu Lulu [stem separated where it joined the tube] I replaced it with a heavy duty tube used with the 30 X 3 1/2 Ford tire. Some old timers [i am now one, unfortunately] regularly used smaller size tubes to reduce the chances of unwanted wrinkles forming between the tube and the tire. That Model T tube has been standing trouble for at least a decade now. Unlike the others, it rarely needs airing. At this point, I'm half way considering going with the heavy duty tubes intended for use with Model Ts. Have yet to check with the T Club to learn if they are running tubes that are trouble free. Anyone know? Your thoughts and/or comments will be appreciated. Thanks for the use of your time.
  9. Good!!! Good on you for accepting the good-on-you. Many good thanks for you being so good to do so. Have an especially good day. Good day to you, sir, good day. Thanks for the good laugh and goodbye.
  10. OK, the continuing march-of-time has forced a decision to go ahead and order new rubber. However, the thought of faulty, splitting inner tubes continues to haunt, big time. Asked a West Coast supplier about the faulty tube situation and have been assured that his heavy duty, metal stemmed tubes are "very reliable" and no issues have been communicated to him by his customers. [What else would he say?] They are ECC Small Combo tubes, having a 3" brass metal stem. My experience with metal stem tubes is limited. Mostly from being friendly with guys who owned early Model T's. Remember stories of metal stem tubes failing at the point where the metal stem joined the rubber. The failure rate was high, but being purists, they bragged about their willingness to live with the original appearance of metal stems. To the point --- I'm searching for experienced opinions concerning rubber vrs metal stem tubes. Any and all comments are eagerly sought. Many thanks for reading this request and a big good-on-you to those who post their thoughts.
  11. With reference to the closed thread pertaining to defective inner tubes, is it once again safe to buy new tubes? Is there info available that up-dates this subject? My situation requires that I replace all five tubes and I'm still recalling the horror stories told earlier about split tubes. Any and all thoughts, recommendations and/or advise is welcomed.
  12. Aloha all, As part of the process of making the Honolulu Lulu, a "17 DB touring, road worthy, we dismounted the differential cover. No metal chunks and gear teeth showing little evidence of abuse. So, the question is now one of learning what gear lube you guys are using. Have the heavy weight, steam cylinder oil for the rebuilt tranny. That stuff is so thick, I can't imagine it being used in the rear end. Your thoughts, if you don't mind. Mahalo.
  13. Thanks for sharing, Larry. Those were a couple of fun stories. Your dad's experience with the "48 Silver Streak is about as good as I have ever heard. I can imagine the expression on his face when he opened the hood and saw the oil pan on top. That's way beyond being funny. It's a gut buster! We had a '47 Pontiac, 2-door, Streamliner beater in the family when I was a teenager. It was tank heavy and horribly underpowered with an inline-6, flat-head, 90-HP, cast-iron, boat anchor. Dad replaced it with a '50, Chevy, Styleline convertible. I thought I was king you-know-who when riding around in that little top-down, head turner. Always had a cutie "seat-cover" sitting next to me when cruising around town in fine Styleline style. Now that this Charger thread has been hijacked, anyone else willing to add to the yesteryear fun? The gauntlet has been thrown. If and/or when the Thought Police start snooping around, I have one '37 Dodge story to contribute. Seeing that a "dependable" Dodge is involved, it may throw them off the track.
  14. Thanks for the thought,Trimmer, but if I said what you said I would be saying, I would say that I would put a Ram Charger up a guys butt if he had the nerve to expose it in an Avanti manner. Otherwise, it's probably the guy behind the wheel of a Pierce that got Tuckered of the uninspiring view. That would be as bad as being Stewed-in-A-Baker. Personally, I prefer the busty chick, radiator cap kind, that resemble the figurehead on tall ships. I relish the thought of being behind their behinds, tongue hanging out in hot Mustang pursuit. It's gratifying to know that you have a good wife and a loving daughter looking after you. Do they keep you Checkered on a short leash so you don't get into much trouble in New Yorder? In my youth I was a Stutz, Ramblered allover the Conintental and Terraplaned the American Bantams. Unfortunately, I acted like an Imperial Kaiser, nothing Frazered me in those days. As you can see, I'm not in a Crosley mood. Take good care ---------------------
  15. OMG! Have I done it again? So soon! Has another attempt at lighthearted fun gone astray? If so, how so? I'm walking on broken glass here, barefooted. In what way do you take the sophistication of a Lincoln personally, dare I ask? I'm kinda running gun-shy, resulting from the last experience of using less than artful expressions. Please explain.