phoemsen

I discovered that if I put the washers on the lid side of the hinge/bracket, the door closed properly. Not sure if this picture shows it clearly enough. Also not sure about rattles, there are still lots of other noises to drown it out!

Mine is 1 3/16 " from the window sill, and 2 5/16 " to the trunk opening

After replacing the speedo cable last year, I noticed an increase in tranny fluid puddles on the floor. I would just throw down some zorb-all and a couple pads to sop it up during storage. A couple of weeks ago, I took it into a reputable shop to have it fixed. I explained to the owner how I wasn't comfortable dropping it off and leaving it all day, he said if I was there exactly at 8 am, he would free up a hoist for me. They dropped the pan and cleaned all the oil that had sprayed everywhere. When they pulled the gear assembly for the speedo cable, they noticed the little orange o-ring had a crack in it! They replaced this and put a new paper (not cork) gasket on the pan. I am happy to report that there is no more oil on the floor! Best $96 CDN I ever spent! That's about $77 US. Am I the only one that procrastinates little repairs like this? This was a small investment in time and resources, but it had a very rewarding outcome.

Seems a little high to me... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-buick-gran-sport-4/

Steve, We probably couldn't get our two Rivs farther away from each other and still be in North America!

WoW ! That looks nice!

Thanks, Chris. My guy did an amazing job on the paint, he is truly an artist. The paint job is over 10 years old and I have never waxed it. It probably helps that it doesn't get outside very often! Peter.

The longest trip since restoration. There had been a few 60 mile trips and the shorter ones to town for gas, etc. I don't know why I was concerned about breakdowns, it ran flawlessly. There is a very scenic highway up to our National Park, narrow, no shoulders, but smooth pavement and lots of gentle turns and some hills. It was the perfect day to do a good shake down trip. It was a little smoky - forest fires to the east of us. My rough calculations revealed about 9 miles per US gallon. Hopefully that improves as it gets broken in. There were no WOT accelerations, I drove like there was a raw egg between my foot and the pedal. I expected better fuel economy, my last (identical) unrestored 65 Riv GS achieved about 12 MPG and that was driving it home from upstate NY to Saskatchewan ( in January 99 ). All in all, it was a great day!

It came from Tucson to Saskatchewan in 1979 or 1980, then got disassembled and sat in pieces for about 13 years. I took possession in about 2003.Then we did a frame off resto that took about 9 years. Black interior from Clark's. Options - all except power trunk/vents and autronic eye. Numbers matching. No rust ever, 43,000 miles. It gets to rest all winter in my heated shop and right around this time of year, I squirt a couple ounces of fresh premium into the carbs, start it up, go for a little rip, then change the oil. I replaced the speedo cable last year and expect to take it on a few cruises this summer.

Alex, I'm still here in Saskatchewan! Just getting ready to bring my 65 Gran Sport out of hibernation. We had an early spring, but it is still fairly cool. Looking forward to some nice long cruises, now that I have a working speedometer. Peter Hoemsen ROA #6910

Here in Saskatchewan, we can also check online for availability. I've been considering a few new ones, but this is what I'm running now. Plain and simple, I'm curious to see what others came up with.

During the restoration, The speedometer cable was installed without an insert. When we finally got around to putting a new insert in, we apparently cut and crimped it too short. This resulted in a lot of noise from the speedo head, so I disconnected it at the transmission end. I finally got around to installing a whole new cable that I had purchased from CARS a number of years ago ( SC612-4 ). The new cable assembly is about 4 3/4" longer than stock. This doesn't seem to be an issue, it routed just fine between the body and frame. I had removed the dash pad thinking that would help in the removal and replacement of the new cable, but I found out that access was easier by removing the fuse panel. Now I just need to re-install those two items. It is GREAT to have a working speedometer!!! Now I don't have to use the phone app/GPS to see how fast I am going. There is about a 5% discrepancy between the app and the speedo, the app reads high.

https://www.griotsgarage.com/product/odor+exterminator.do?sortby=ourPicks&from=Search "eco-friendly" Chlorine Dioxide vapors. It worked well, roll up windows, open package and let it sit overnight. Seemed to eliminate the odors, not just mask them.

This is a picture I took on August 26,2019. Put a few miles on this summer, still a work in progress.

Is this a 100k car?

It just so happens that mine is still up on jack stands. Here is a picture of the filler plug with 3/4" Hex head and tag ""Limited Slip Diff Lube Only " Or something close to that.

After much frustration and ordering the wrong part (once), It seems I found the correct part. This is the rubber flocked seal that goes against the side windows in the channel of the vent window. NOT the vent window seal itself !!! I ordered a set from RTRW and I mistakenly ordered the part for "full size" Buicks.That was part # 10-021X. It appears that RTRW correct part number for 63-65 Riviera is 10-047X. From RTRW Flocked Division Channel Seal - Includes Bumpers For Vent Frame PART #:10-047X THIS PRODUCT FITS 1963-65 Riviera -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From Steele Rubber Products Flexible run channel kit 1965 Buick Riviera 2-Door-Hardtop Part Number: 70-1886-62 Upper division post run channel kit. Includes end bumpers with brass core. Four (4) piece set. Replaces factory #5717300. That last part was the clincher - the factory part number. I was able to find that on my original channel seal for cross reference. It appears to be in 2 pieces, the seal itself and the top section, which they are calling end bumpers. I am assuming these will need to be glued on to the channel seal. The part seems to be made in the USA by Steele, I ordered from RTRW, they seem to be very friendly and helpful. I hope this reduces frustration for anyone else that needs to replace these. Peter Hoemsen ROA #6910

Here in Saskatchewan, we are in the midst of a record setting cold spell. " Prince Albert broke a -42.8 C record that was set in 1899, with a new record of -44.8. Coronach was the coldest place in the province, setting a new weather record of -46.5 C. That broke a record of -41 C set in 1994 " Even though it is a record, we are not unaccustomed to frigid temperatures. We dress warmly when we go out to shovel the latest 6" dump of snow! -40 degress Celsius is equal to 40 below fahrenheit. This is a picture of my truck thermometer last week - Cheers! Peter Hoemsen ROA # 6910 Prince Albert, Saskatchewan Canada

I received this same kit from Mr. G's for my 65. It is very handy to have all the screws available at your fingertips. Previously, I was scouring through bins and buckets and coffee cans to find the right fastener. Occasionally, a substitute was used, now I can identify and replace those with the correct screw! Nice people to deal with as well! Peter Hoemsen ROA # 6910

This was my first Riviera GS, purchased from Bill in Auburn, NY in January 1999. This is the picture I took of the two of them before I drove it home. I sold that car in 2010, this is the transport driver loading it up. There were 3 other vehicles in the van, a Ferrari, Lamborghini and a 55 chevy pickup - all RED!

Thanks,Tom. In the bible, they refer to it as the "Heater-Air conditioner diaphragm". But you're right, it diverts the air from either the evaporator core, through the vents, or across the heater core, in conjunction with the "Heater temperature door". I was wondering about the reliability of the vacuum system itself. The 2 "plugs" that connect to the temperature controller seem pliable and soft, which should mean a good flow of vacuum. But, as we know, any minor leak will prevent the devices from working as they should. It must be a good systrem, I do not recall a lot of comments as to troubleshooting etc. As I get farther into this ( my A/C has not been re-charged yet) I am also wondering about replacing the STV? If it is working, I will keep it, the alternative seems to be replacing it with an ON-OFF device rather than modulating the temperature.

Decided to tackle a couple of issues. The vacuum line to the hot water valve needed replacing, so I ran a new one back to the "Heater Vacuum Disc" switch mounted on the temperature controller. The actuator for the "Heater/Evaporator" door has a broken vacuum connection, so I ordered a new one from Old Air.It will be interesting to see if these components function as they should after the repairs. How reliable are the old vacuum controls for our HVAC systems? There are many more important things that require attention on my car, but this seemed like a nice place to start. I had forgotten how difficult it was to wriggle my way under the dash and fish in new vacuum lines! It's going to be a long, cold winter up here in Saskatchewan, I hope I put up enough firewood to last!

He jumped a little at first when the horn went off, but he laughed the second time! My first grandson, Benjamin. Peter Hoemsen ROA # 6910

Pretty impressive array of early 60's automobiles.