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Everything posted by c49er

  1. That throttle return spring and worm drive hose clamp don't let the car claim best in the world. There is another real nice one here in Lynnwood Washington.
  2. It's in need of a shift rod adjustment. The motor mounts are probably worn out and the engine has shifted. You like your old chrysler...better get the factory service manual so you can learn how to properly take care of it. Not many will know as much as you if you study that service manual. The adjustment is done on the only adjustable shifter rod next to the steering column....loosen the two 7/16" nuts...they probably need to be screwed up tighter to shorten the rod.
  3. When I opened my carton of eggs one was broken🍳☹️ I will have to find a better vender.
  4. All the MoPar flatheads already have hardened Stellite exhaust seats. Leave it as is...it will be just fine. After 50 years of driving these old MoPars and never an issue with mine...use this and all the advice already given!
  5. Only up to 1948 do the mopars use that brass filler crush fitting sealing the outer fuel line to the inner tank pick up tube.
  6. That picture of the internal tank fitting was a picture I posted on another website and yes the tube nut is a special long tube nut. The tube end is a special bubble flare backed up with a flared.copper sealing washer. I posted pictures of all that. I will post them again if needed when back.
  7. I had Arias make six pistons for a six cylinder Dodge 413 engine. Beautiful 1-1/8" wrist pin forged pistons. I tried for years to find new ones everywhere. Arias was the only company willing and able.to supply the correct 1-1/8" wrist pin pistons. Costly @ $1200.00.
  8. I think valve to guide clearance should be a max of .010" side to side to play get .005". 1/32" is way too much wear in any valve guide.😏
  9. Crosleys' I think are all floor shift top loaders too?
  10. The heavy dodge truck large 30" head engines originated back in the 30's....they came in several displacements.. 281, 306, 331, 377 and the last and biggest the 413 ending in 1955. Here is the 413 engine...
  11. That plate is a block off plate for a optional type accessory heater... Mounted on the Passenger side of the firewall..
  12. The contact points are almost always the issue with these 1951-54 Mopar 6 volt cars. They need to be carefully... lightly filed clean. But here is the way I bench test them.... 1) Connect the Battery charger leads -(NEG) to the BIG relay Stud...connect the + (POS) to the relay base for a ground 2) I ground one of the outer top studs (top left) to the relay base with a jumper wire.............actually connects to the Regulator or GEN "ARM" terminal on the car for the relay coil Grd. 3) I connect a jumper lead to the BIG bat cable 6V feed stud and tap touch the other end of the jumper wire to the right stud which closes the relay points making the clicking . Doing this closes the relay points sending 6 volts to the starter solenoid via the center relay stud terminal. 4) The center of the three studs is the 6V feed wire to the starter solenoid. .I connect my volt meter to that stud and the relay case ground to check that 6 volts is supplied to this center stud as the relay contacts close.."click"
  13. Open it up and clean the contacts...simple...you won't find one of those easily. Or cheaply.
  14. Chrysler came out with "Hydraguide" PS in 1951.
  15. There is an easy check for 3/5 brake fluid.... Put a sample of old brake fluid in a clear glass.... add a small amount of water... stir up ..wait 5 minutes. If there is a blob of water at the bottom of the glass...DOT 5 Silicone fluid...if no glob of clear water the water mixed in with the old DOT 3 Brake fluid.
  16. Model 392= C39-N New Yorker Body 5 = 6 Passenger Sedan Paint 3= Newport Blue "Dark" Trim 33 = Tan Leather SPEC. FO.4625 = Special order, Factory Order number....Sales and Export reference Only.... SCHED. 424 =Master Schedule Number or Special order by Dealer.... ITEM NO. 0323 = Master Schedule Item Number...
  17. That Body Build plate codes to.............. Model 382=C38 -W Windsor Body 2 =Club Cpe PA 16 = Regal Maroon Trim 15 = Maroon and Tan Broad Cloth RA 1= Philco 8 Tube Radio Model 802 AN 2 = Concealed Cowl Antenna left hand Side
  18. They all should use the same kit......although there are three different types of pistons used depending on who made the cylinders. That requires different rubber piston cups.... I'd re-sleeve or buy new. New Chinese cylinders are questionable as for fit and leakage in a year or two. Done many of these jobs over the years.
  19. Old thread but I did find the 53-54 Imperial Hdtp or convert power window motors if still needed.
  20. Tie rod and pitman arm puller is the best way to prevent shock damage through the steering gear. With those tools you can also remove good parts with out damage to the rubber boots too...tie rods and ball joints etc.
  21. Open up the starter relay and see what is wrong.... maybe it's wired up wrong or the points on the starter relay are stuck closed... maybe the starter solenoid is actually the issue....more diagnostics required... If your car was a 145" LWB Crown Imperial it would use a 12 volt system. You have the Std Imperial 6 volt system