64R

You just posted at the same time as me Jason, everything is all apart but my recollection is there isn't anything going on between air cleaner and valve cover. I know I have the mesh screen type breather as it was always smoking, hence the rebuild, well that and well over 100,000 miles on it. Now here's an interesting thought, and also a confession. As it was smoking out the breather, I put a cap on it from a 64 small block nailhead that my son had figuring that maybe it wasn't a must, I drove it for 10 minutes or so and came back, the engine pressurized and gushed oil out through the dip stick hole, leaving a good size puddle. Perhaps it gushed back through the carb as well? As embarrassed as I am to admit this maybe someone will benefit from it and either way I was rebuilding the engine.

Thanks for the reply Chuck, it seemed kind of odd to me but I couldn't figure out how else it could have got there? The air filter itself is certainly not what you buy these days either so that just added to my confusion. Cheers

This is probably a stupid question. I'm rebuilding the 425 in my 64 and while I'm at it cleaning up and painting anything that attaches to it. When I took the filter out of the air cleaner I noticed about a 1/2 cup of oil in there. Does this have a purpose, I seem to remember oil bath type filters from many years before but I thought that ship had sailed?

I recently bought a 76 Eldo and it's just a little on the noisy side, the muffler and most of the exhaust looks quite new. I looked in the factory shop manual and it shows a resonator at the back, I don't have this? Looking under the car it doesn't look like there's much room for one either, between the gas tank and the frame rail is pretty tight. Can anyone confirm that there's one sardined in there? Thanks

I do all my own paint and bodywork and I can tell you straight up that you will get exactly what you pay for, which means being very, very specific in what you want. As mentioned your car is probably in lacquer currently unless it was redone. One coat of primer over bare is just the epoxy primer or etch if you're more old school. If you want it lazer straight and believe me you do, nothing makes your car look worse than a new paint job on an old body. Your looking at multiple high build primer coats with blocking, over and over again, I do this at least 3 times with 2 - 3 coats each time. Paint is another 3 coats depending on what you're using and then clear coat is good for 3 more at least if you ant to color sand and buff. I could go on forever but the wife's calling me for dinner

That's great, yes that should help, I'm a Dupont guy but they can cross reference numbers. Thanks a ton!!

The only reference I was able to find was Cadillac Dk Blue but I saw a color chit of it and it was so dark it was almost black? Here's a pic from someone's off of ebay which looks the same as the remaining specs of paint left on mine and it looks far lighter than the chit I saw. Naturally I can't find the link to the paint chit. Does this look like the Dk blue you're taking about?

Anybody know what the paint code for 76 Eldorado valve covers is? I can't find anything anywhere on it, certainly isn't the super dark blue they list for the engine?

I've been playing around with it a bit trying to sort out some of the bugs. I've always liked the design of these Eldos but one thing I don't like is all the external plastic bits. They don't really sit right as plastic is prone to distortion. Also the doors, when you close the doors on my 64 Riv it sounds like a new Benz, these have that trashy rattling sound. But it is fun, looking forward to some summer weather

Yes you're correct it was originally blue, not sure why they changed it's color, an awful lot of work with doing the jambs, under hood, deck lid, etc. I did have the paint scanned, it's a 2002 GM colour, cream white. Quite nice I think but I would have left it blue if I had the choice.

Thanks guys, I'll end up having to have it scanned by the sounds of it. I was hoping it was an original color for simplicity sake more than anything. Also odd is that the trunk lid has the jacking instruction decal on it. I realize you can probably buy them but it doesn't seem likely that someone actually would so we though maybe the lid came off of another one in that color? Oh well, no big deal, thanks again for your input.

Unfortunately adding to the confusion is that the original color is blue so everything white is the repaint. It is definitely on the creamy side but not overly, all in all a very nice color. I need to do some touchups so ideally I need the paint code otherwise it's hunting through endless color chits :mad: If you say Cotillian is very white then this isn't it and my computer screen shows it pretty accuratley, like vanilla icecream perhaps?

I just picked up a 76 Eldorado that was resprayed some years ago but not by the previous owner and he doesn't know if it's an original color. Does anybody here know how white Cotillian white is? The car certainly is far from fridge white so if Cotillian is very white that isn't it, and it's not creamy enough to be Calumet Cream so it may not be a Caddy color at all?

Good to know, wouldn't want to be shunned here

Thanks Al, I'll check that site

Anybody here have a Cadillac in their collection? Or are we Buick guys against that sort of thing like the Mopar or no car guys would be? The reason I ask is I just picked up a great big ole land yaucht, 76 Eldorado convertible and was wondering if there was a decent forum for that sort of car.

Well good on ya, I hope it goes as well as it possibly can, at least someone will save it which is great. I must have a good 500 hours into my 65 Mustang vert build I'm doing for my wife and I'm only about half way done, so I know all about being a sucker for punishment Good luck with it and keep us posted.

The car looks great, very nice color as long as you don't care about it being a stock color and I certainly don't. You still need to do all your due diligence but to me this a much better option than trying to restore a clapped out basket case like the one you were looking at before. No insult intended with that last comment I can't comment on the price other than the cost of restoring one yourself would certainly get you up there in a hurry.

I'll throw my 2 bits in. I do all my own restoration work, body, paint, etc., it's very time consuming so if you're paying someone else, it's going to add up FAST. Things are always worse than they appear and Riv's don't have every possible bit of sheet metal available so you'll need to fabricate, more $$$. As others have stated putting it back together will be a daunting task as well. All in all it's almost always cheaper to buy a built one than build one. I don't mean to be a downer and I would love to see the car saved. Like everyone else just want to make sure you know what you're getting yourself into. The biggest thing in your favour is it's a GS so at least it has a higher upside.

Judging by the prices of their other cars for sale, a lot. They're asking 45K for a 67 Skylark GS400 so that's a starting point, should be north of that number I would think.

Thanks guys, I shall take your advise and go without unless I have a problem. Once the motor is rebuilt I will be taking it for longer drives so it won't take long to figure out if I need it, from what you tell me, probably not.

I don't have AC and honestly haven't put enough continous miles on the car to know if it has any cooling issues at all. I did put one on my 65 Stang and it did help quite a bit but those small block Fords are notorious for overheating.

My 64 doesn't have one but I saw in the CARS catalog that they are available. Do any of you have one on yours? I know it can only help so I'm thinking of ordering one.

I had no idea they were the same group and yes that's the same one I was looking at on pg 10. Good idea with the spray adhesive, I didn't think of that and couldn't think of anything thin.

I'm not sure if I'm getting it from CARS, I need a few other misc. parts and the "Old Buick Parts" guys seem to have quite a selection. I'm pretty sure I saw the correct 64 one with the disc in their catalog. What type of glue would you use for the disc? Maybe just some silicone?