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Posts posted by 64R

  1. 28 minutes ago, bluesy66 said:

    The ribbed one is removed by taking off the nuts thru the trunk


    Or at least it should be, mine was siliconed on even though the studs on the trim weren't broken. Guess they ran out of speed nuts?

  2. 4 hours ago, Scott Mckenzie said:

    I got my sail panel barrel clips from a guy on E Bay with the handle "Best offer Counts" https://www.ebay.ca/itm/63-64-65-Buick-Riviera-Exterior-Sail-Panel-Trim-Clip-Set-Top-Quarter-Clips-Nuts-/232561541712


    Thanks Scott I'll look that up, given a choice I would like to remove the ones that stayed in the panel for better body work finishing and the one that stuck on the spear may not want to go back in and hold correctly, and that's just the one side, haven't pulled the other one off yet.


    55 minutes ago, Eric's.64.Superwildcat said:

    Hi Rob.


    Before you spend money on a new window motor you might try removing and cleaning both the existing motor and the window channels.  The motor's gears will need to have all of the old grease broken out and fresh grease installed. 


    There is an excellent chance that the motor is fine but that a thorough cleaning of both is what's needed.  If you're helping it down by hand it suggests that the electrical circuit is fine, but there is too much resistance elsewhere in the window's travel.  


    It would be very frustrating for you if you installed a different window motor only to have it suffer from the same problem.  


    Good thinking, that makes good sense, and yes replacing it only to be in the same boat would be all kinds of frustrating.


    28 minutes ago, RivNut said:

    I had a guy in a glass shop tell me that the rear windows in a station wagon usually never quit working.  Kids in the back seat used them all the time and the windows never had a chance to get gummed up.


    Again, that does make good sense, you do use the front windows a lot more than the rear ones. Gummed up definitely describes the way it tries to work. The rear switch only wants to bring the window up so it may be faulty so I will order one of those. The front control works in both directions other than the window getting stuck.

  3. Funny you should mention it but my rear side window motor isn't working all that great, need to help it down by hand while pushing the button. If they make new motors I'll replace it, if not maybe they can be rebuilt. Fortunately my heater core is ok for now, that is a nightmare job on virtually any car but no doubt even worse on a Riv. I have rebuilt the engine so she runs like a dream and has stainless exhaust so some of that stuff is in good shape.


    Speaking of rear window trim what's the trick to getting that off? Usually I use one of those Y shaped tools but most trim is 4 pieces not 6 super tight ones. Is there a particular piece to start with?


    Yes Mitch I noticed how incredibly flimsy the sail panel is easily leading to tiny dents. I've been trying to find new square barrel clips but haven't had any luck so far. I know they make the rectangular ones for the horseshoe trim so I would have thought they would make the square ones too?

  4. 9 hours ago, RivNut said:

    When you posted the picture, you had last talked about the roof rail molding.  I thought that's what you posted a picture of. I knew that wasn't being reproduced.  As Randall says, the sweeps are being reproduced.  Sorry if I mislead you.  Soft parts and a few hard parts are being reproduced but unlike a Mustang, Camaro, or Chevelle, you can't build a Riviera from scratch.


    Oh yes Ed I do realize that, and up here in the rain forest it's even worse. You really can't find any good used anything as we're all in the same leaky boat, literally. 


    3 hours ago, jsgun said:

    Mine on the doors were in that condition. I had all my glass out to get to the screws, and even then I had to drill out most of them. I replaced them with brass ones from the hardware store. I'm not a fan of the design, on previous cars it was interlocking tabs and one screw, which makes more sense.


    Honestly the worst design of all time, having to tear so much of your car apart to remove a piece of trim. Thank you for confirming my suspicion that the glass too needs to come out, which is totally idiotic. Of course cars were never built with any consideration to taking them back apart.


    I just want to refurbish it for now not do a full frame off restoration. I've already got 3 of those on the go. The Riv just started to fall apart a bit as you may have seen in my earlier pics where I fixed the tail panel. Just want to keep it alive for now until it's turn comes up.

  5. Yes it is the sweeps and has luck would have it I found that they do repop them, OldBuickParts sells for $95 a set. I'll be ordering them soon. 


    Thanks for the names Ed, I'll keep that in mind when I need something that definitely isn't repopped. Being that I live on a rock off the west coast of Canada, shipping bits and pieces are a pain and can be pricey

  6. Ok before I destroy my car entirely can I get confirmation that the only way to remove this trim is to gut half my interior? I'll run into traffic if I tear it all apart and still can't access the screws :unsure:


    Remove rear seat so you can remove the arm rest

    Remove arm rest

    Remove door panel

    Remove glass to access the screws that are an inch lower


    After all that there will be access holes through the steel to the screws????






  7. Well I sure hope they repop this piece, mine is completely rotted out. I'm not sure how I can even access the screws into the trim without removing the glass. Just a very awkward way to remove trim, nothing like any other car I've worked on





  8. Boy this sounds like fun. I'm pretty baffled about the rubber seal? The trim is not even half an inch wide and seems to be right tight to the drip rail, can't imagine where there would be a rubber seal? I'll look harder tomorrow. Doesn't help that my picture uploading skills aren't up to snuff. Thanks for your help Ed!!




  9. That worked, got the spear part off, a bit nerve wracking prying on it, was stuck pretty good. Next question(s) how do you get the part forward of it off? runs under the quarter glass and also under the door glass. And just for kicks how do you get the trim that runs up the sail panel on a 45 degree angle and then along the drip rail, sure looks to be on very tight.



  10. Well you guys were right about the rear piece, in theory, apparently it had been removed before so why bother with that whole awkward speed nut attachment when you can just goo it all in with a good old tube of silicone :wacko: Anyway once I figured that out it sure came off easy. The side trim spear is another story, there's a speed nut at the far end but nothing forward that I can reach from the trunk so I assume I will have to do some interior removal, wasn't really hoping to get to deep at this point but we'll see how she goes. Cheers and thanks!

  11. I started picking away at the Riv again (1964), it's been a while. Most of the trim removal I understand but this bit that runs along the door and out under the sail panel confuses me? How would you remove this without damaging it? If I could figure out the quarter panel part, the door part should be obvious. There's also the rear ribbed piece behind the glass that I would assume you pry off like the horse shoe trim side pieces but if I'm wrong please correct me. Thanks for any help







  12. Well I got it all figured out I think, the new flex plate while different in many ways has the same offset, etc. so I'm not worried. The old one was aligned with the hole and dimple so no change there.

    Mine also didn't have washers of any kind so I'm wondering if that's the norm or even if it isn't it would be worth putting some flat ones on? Just odd that it didn't in the first place?

  13. Not old enough to remember balancing tires by setting them on a "bubble balancer?" You'd place the tire on a machine that had a bubble in the middle; if the tire was too heavy on one side, it would tip that direction. When you added the correct weight, the bubble would be in the middle of a circle on the machine.

    I don't think the flex plate by itself cannot be balanced! It has to be balanced as part of the reciprocatiing assembly - harmonic balancer, crank, all rods and pistons, and the flexplate.

    I can't recall seeing any OE flexplates for the nailhead that had but two mounting holes for the torque converter(s). Most I've seen have a small weight tack welded to it somewhere though.


    Ah that makes sense about the bubble balancer, thanks for the explanation.

    I guess I'm going to find out how this balance business all turns out soon enough. Still have to paint the motor and misc parts before putting it back in but should be finished in the next month or so.

  14. Thanks for the tip John, I'll make sure to use the flat washers.

    I didn't remove the flexplate so no I didn't check it. I pulled the motor and took it to the builder with the plate on. I'll check for alignment marks but I thought they all went on the same way, with the alignment hole matching up with the one on the crank? I don't know what balanced by bubble not spin means?

  15. You Bet Man,

    Ive been prepping and painting all my engine and accessory parts today, plus my evaporator box metal top. Next I will get back in the engine compartment and get that prepped out for some paint. My block and heads are still at the Machine shop, but I went in to visit them yesterday and went over some stuff with the machinist.

    I even got all new stainless sheet metal screws of the proper sizes to attach all the stuff that goes back on the fender wells and firewall. I must be hanging around this forum too much! :D

    Better get back to it...........

    You must post pics when you're done. The stainless sounds like it would set things off quite nicely.

    I just got my motor back from my builder, he had fits with parts, wrong cam shipped, wrong frost plugs 8 times!!!!! wrong oil plugs, obsolete main seal, etc.

    I'm not going overboard on the engine compartment at the moment, or the rest of the car, just the drivetrain until I finish the other resto I'm in the midst of.

  16. Thanks guys.

    As usual even simple things end up being complicated. I don't have a lot of faith in the machine shops in regards to them having a clue about how it should be balanced. Also up here everyone charges about $90/hr plus our modest 12% tax. They said $150 to weld and check for balance.

    I think I'll just install the new one assuming it's offset is the same and then see what happens. If I have to pull the trans again so be it.

    I assume the alignment hole in the fleplate is the extra hole where you bolt it to the crank and the crank has some sort of corresponding dimple I have to look for.

  17. The other holes are for the smaller torque converter when the flexplate is used with a nailhead in a Skylark GS. That would have had a 401 with an ST300 trans in it. Both are OE flexplates and if the alignment holes are lined up correctly, it's balanced. I don't think the series of holes in the the plate on the left are OE.


    Interesting, the one on the left is my original cracked one (not sure how original but the one I just took off). I'll be putting it all back together soon enough so I guess we'll see.


  18. I'm guessing the one on the right is the replacement. My guess is the holes on the perimiter are for balancing. The other three are for a larger diameter torque converter.

    I was thinking the same thing regarding balancing but it seems like a rather odd way to bring it into balance? Also after I posted the pic I noticed the center hub, or whatever you want to call it, is somewhat different as well?

  19. I have a cracked flexplate for my 64 Riv and just got a used replacement one. It's the same but different in that it has what appears to be random holes in different places than my original one? With all the talk about external balancing, etc., it seems unlikely that the balance would be the same?

    Any thoughts on this gentlemen



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