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64R

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Posts posted by 64R

  1. 28 minutes ago, bluesy66 said:

    The ribbed one is removed by taking off the nuts thru the trunk

     

    Or at least it should be, mine was siliconed on even though the studs on the trim weren't broken. Guess they ran out of speed nuts?

  2. 4 hours ago, Scott Mckenzie said:

    I got my sail panel barrel clips from a guy on E Bay with the handle "Best offer Counts" https://www.ebay.ca/itm/63-64-65-Buick-Riviera-Exterior-Sail-Panel-Trim-Clip-Set-Top-Quarter-Clips-Nuts-/232561541712

     

    Thanks Scott I'll look that up, given a choice I would like to remove the ones that stayed in the panel for better body work finishing and the one that stuck on the spear may not want to go back in and hold correctly, and that's just the one side, haven't pulled the other one off yet.

     

    55 minutes ago, Eric's.64.Superwildcat said:

    Hi Rob.

     

    Before you spend money on a new window motor you might try removing and cleaning both the existing motor and the window channels.  The motor's gears will need to have all of the old grease broken out and fresh grease installed. 

     

    There is an excellent chance that the motor is fine but that a thorough cleaning of both is what's needed.  If you're helping it down by hand it suggests that the electrical circuit is fine, but there is too much resistance elsewhere in the window's travel.  

     

    It would be very frustrating for you if you installed a different window motor only to have it suffer from the same problem.  

     

    Good thinking, that makes good sense, and yes replacing it only to be in the same boat would be all kinds of frustrating.

     

    28 minutes ago, RivNut said:

    I had a guy in a glass shop tell me that the rear windows in a station wagon usually never quit working.  Kids in the back seat used them all the time and the windows never had a chance to get gummed up.

     

    Again, that does make good sense, you do use the front windows a lot more than the rear ones. Gummed up definitely describes the way it tries to work. The rear switch only wants to bring the window up so it may be faulty so I will order one of those. The front control works in both directions other than the window getting stuck.

  3. Funny you should mention it but my rear side window motor isn't working all that great, need to help it down by hand while pushing the button. If they make new motors I'll replace it, if not maybe they can be rebuilt. Fortunately my heater core is ok for now, that is a nightmare job on virtually any car but no doubt even worse on a Riv. I have rebuilt the engine so she runs like a dream and has stainless exhaust so some of that stuff is in good shape.

     

    Speaking of rear window trim what's the trick to getting that off? Usually I use one of those Y shaped tools but most trim is 4 pieces not 6 super tight ones. Is there a particular piece to start with?

     

    Yes Mitch I noticed how incredibly flimsy the sail panel is easily leading to tiny dents. I've been trying to find new square barrel clips but haven't had any luck so far. I know they make the rectangular ones for the horseshoe trim so I would have thought they would make the square ones too?

  4. 9 hours ago, RivNut said:

    When you posted the picture, you had last talked about the roof rail molding.  I thought that's what you posted a picture of. I knew that wasn't being reproduced.  As Randall says, the sweeps are being reproduced.  Sorry if I mislead you.  Soft parts and a few hard parts are being reproduced but unlike a Mustang, Camaro, or Chevelle, you can't build a Riviera from scratch.

     

    Oh yes Ed I do realize that, and up here in the rain forest it's even worse. You really can't find any good used anything as we're all in the same leaky boat, literally. 

     

    3 hours ago, jsgun said:

    Mine on the doors were in that condition. I had all my glass out to get to the screws, and even then I had to drill out most of them. I replaced them with brass ones from the hardware store. I'm not a fan of the design, on previous cars it was interlocking tabs and one screw, which makes more sense.

     

    Honestly the worst design of all time, having to tear so much of your car apart to remove a piece of trim. Thank you for confirming my suspicion that the glass too needs to come out, which is totally idiotic. Of course cars were never built with any consideration to taking them back apart.

     

    I just want to refurbish it for now not do a full frame off restoration. I've already got 3 of those on the go. The Riv just started to fall apart a bit as you may have seen in my earlier pics where I fixed the tail panel. Just want to keep it alive for now until it's turn comes up.

  5. Yes it is the sweeps and has luck would have it I found that they do repop them, OldBuickParts sells for $95 a set. I'll be ordering them soon. 

     

    Thanks for the names Ed, I'll keep that in mind when I need something that definitely isn't repopped. Being that I live on a rock off the west coast of Canada, shipping bits and pieces are a pain and can be pricey

  6. Ok before I destroy my car entirely can I get confirmation that the only way to remove this trim is to gut half my interior? I'll run into traffic if I tear it all apart and still can't access the screws :unsure:

     

    Remove rear seat so you can remove the arm rest

    Remove arm rest

    Remove door panel

    Remove glass to access the screws that are an inch lower

     

    After all that there will be access holes through the steel to the screws????

     

     

     

     

    DSC07684.JPG

  7. Well I sure hope they repop this piece, mine is completely rotted out. I'm not sure how I can even access the screws into the trim without removing the glass. Just a very awkward way to remove trim, nothing like any other car I've worked on

     

     

    DSC07682.JPG

    DSC07683.JPG

  8. Boy this sounds like fun. I'm pretty baffled about the rubber seal? The trim is not even half an inch wide and seems to be right tight to the drip rail, can't imagine where there would be a rubber seal? I'll look harder tomorrow. Doesn't help that my picture uploading skills aren't up to snuff. Thanks for your help Ed!!

     

     

    DSC07680.JPG

  9. That worked, got the spear part off, a bit nerve wracking prying on it, was stuck pretty good. Next question(s) how do you get the part forward of it off? runs under the quarter glass and also under the door glass. And just for kicks how do you get the trim that runs up the sail panel on a 45 degree angle and then along the drip rail, sure looks to be on very tight.

     

    [URL=http://s74.photobucket.com/user/rj440/media/Riviera/DSC07681_zpsydw5xpsm.jpg.html][IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/rj440/Riviera/DSC07681_zpsydw5xpsm.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

  10. Well you guys were right about the rear piece, in theory, apparently it had been removed before so why bother with that whole awkward speed nut attachment when you can just goo it all in with a good old tube of silicone :wacko: Anyway once I figured that out it sure came off easy. The side trim spear is another story, there's a speed nut at the far end but nothing forward that I can reach from the trunk so I assume I will have to do some interior removal, wasn't really hoping to get to deep at this point but we'll see how she goes. Cheers and thanks!

  11. I started picking away at the Riv again (1964), it's been a while. Most of the trim removal I understand but this bit that runs along the door and out under the sail panel confuses me? How would you remove this without damaging it? If I could figure out the quarter panel part, the door part should be obvious. There's also the rear ribbed piece behind the glass that I would assume you pry off like the horse shoe trim side pieces but if I'm wrong please correct me. Thanks for any help

     

    [URL=http://s74.photobucket.com/user/rj440/media/Riviera/DSC07678_zps8d3bys5r.jpg.html][IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/rj440/Riviera/DSC07678_zps8d3bys5r.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

     

    [URL=http://s74.photobucket.com/user/rj440/media/Riviera/DSC07679_zpsftm7j7a0.jpg.html][IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/rj440/Riviera/DSC07679_zpsftm7j7a0.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    DSC07678.JPG

    DSC07679.JPG

  12.                    Getting back to the original subject of this post........I'm not hearing much love for the car in question.

    What I've heard so far is that a flawless original 63 Riviera that looks like it just drove out of the Buick showroom

    is worth less than someone's high mileage nothing left that is original restored car that is full of patch panels, Bondo

    and repro parts. I'm also hearing that unless it is a certain color combo, this 6,000 mile perfect car should be discounted

    30 per cent........oops I've got to continue this post later as my BSometer's siren just went off and is disturbing the entire

    neighborhood. I'll get back to you when I get this siren shut off! 

     

    I gather you only wanted favourable opinions, you should have mentioned that in your original post before you got offended. We all have varied opinions and most here are very informed at that. No doubt a very cool car so sock away your money and buy it when it comes up, you're the only one that needs to love it, whether it be it green or any other color.

  13. When I bought my 64 Riv the horn wasn't working, the guy had swapped in a tilt column and didn't hook up the horn for some reason. Fast forward a bunch of years and I'm retired and have more time to deal with the many little issues all my cars have.

     

    So I went to hook up the horn only to discover it is missing the important bits, being the green plastic insert with attached green wire and the brass ring that seats in it. I have no idea where that would have gone. He did give me the original steering column so I figured I'll just pull the missing bits out of there, but naturally they're a totally different size, tilt shaft is about an inch in diameter, non tilt about 3/4".

     

    Anybody have a busted up tilt column that I could buy the bits from? Or any ideas on how to get around this? He installed a toggle switch half way down the column that works but looks stupid and isn't exactly easy to get to when you're about to get sideswiped.

     

    These are the parts from the non-tilt that I'm missing, need the larger diameter version

     

    DSC07238_zpslhfeffmu.jpg

     

    DSC07237_zpstkg7z3o9.jpg

  14. Thanks for the info! Mine didn't come with the rear belts, still optional at that time. It's just nice to have them for the odd time I have a couple of extra people in it. I'm sure many of the worst drivers on the planet live in my area so it's worth having them.

  15. Does anybody know if there is a suppier that makes rear seat belts for a 64 Riv? I'm sure I saw some on some site like CARS a few years ago but I can't find anything. I know I can go to an upholstery shop and get some generic ones but I would prefer period correct.

     

    Thanks

  16. While you're waiting you can cut out the piece and fab up the patch. It isn't critical to roll beads in it but its certainly desirable, stiiffens the panle immensely. Ideally it should be butt welded as mentioned but even stock pans often have lapped areas.

    This is one I'm doing right now on a 65 Stang, it's only tacked in at the moment but the front and right side will be butt welds and the back is a lap with spot welds as it came from the factory. This is a repop pan so it has all the beads in it. I don't know if they make replacement sheet metal for our Rivs? I haven't needed any yet.

    DSC06409_zps7a865e50.jpg

  17. Well it's a bit harder than that if you want to really do it right, you'll need a bead roller to duplicate the ones you cut out to give it strength. It sounds like you want to lap weld it when you say "shape a slighty bigger piece" which is fine but then you should ideally weld the bottom as well so you don't have the lap fill with gipe when you drive, you could just seam seal it but welding is better. Also you may end up needing a bigger patch than you think as welding to thinner semi rusty metal can be a challenge. As far as rust inhibiting paint, that would be epoxy primer if you're referring to the new metal, POR15 and the like are meant for rusty metal not fresh clean metal.

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