Yellowriv

Hi everyone, I’m fascinated by this 1930 Stutz that is listed for sale. Whilst I know a little about the history of the company, I’m interested to know what they are like to own and drive. Looking at the pics for this car, the dash looks uncommonly sparse for a car of this vintage. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/stutz/m/1937052.html?refer=saturday#&gid=1&pid=19

John, thanks for this thread, stunning car. Although I’m an originality guy and also very mindful of the anti-white whitewall sentiments of some senior forum members/moderators, I can’t help thinking that this is one car that needs either a set of white walls or, to be completely sacriligious and face immediate ban, a set of later wheels and sombrero hubcaps. Seriously though, as we all know, wheels make and break a car and the wheels on this car just don’t do it justice in my view. The tyres look too tall and too black, just as they did when it was new. I’ll see myself out....

Given the cars age and the time its been sitting, I would be concerned about sludge in the sump and oil pump operation. These days, at a minimum, I have a look inside the sump with a camera, if there’s sludge I drop the sump, clean it and check the oil pump operation before using the car. Good luck with your project.

Matt, I find this thread quite confusing. You decide to restore a very rusty Series 61, even the chassis is very pitted and then buy what looks to be a nice and quite restorable series 41 and pull it apart to put on the rusty old Series 61 chassis. The logic of all this escapes me.... John

Thanks Martin, great thread, you are doing a wonderful job, thanks for sharing. Those trim pieces are interesting. Unless its a trick of placement or the camera, they dont look identical, left to right. Cheers John

F&J, I am concerned for your health. Your posts are becoming increasingly incomprehensible. Please either seek medical assistance or at least contact a relative, I think you need assistance. All the best.

I had the four speed Fluid Drive version of this in my '47 Windsor Highlander Coupe. Lovely car spolied by the gearbox, it didn't always change down as you came to a stop either. To my mind it lacked the control of a manual without the convenience of an automatic. It made the car ponderous and slow. I had a 48 Cadillac 60 Special at the same time with the 4 speed Hydramatic and there was no comparison, the Hydramatic was far superior. If the Chrysler had been a manual I would have kept it. John

Unimogjohn is spot on, his is wise council. The only thing I would add, also from bitter experience, is drop the sump and clean out the sludge BEFORE you start it. Also check the oil pump for wear while you're there. Enjoy! John

Chris, I'm going to call a spade a spade here, as unpopular as it may be. Unfortunately, rust in the rockers/sills is serious and structural. The car is very rusty and all credit to you for taking it on. I've been where you are more than once. You need to ascertain whether the chassis is rusty (likely) and you will need to separate the body from the chassis to repair both. These things are always rustier than they appear. I think you are at the tipping point that occurs in most restorations, either commit to a full on resto or cut your losses and move on. All the best John

John, thanks for this thread, its terrific. Can you tell me what the purple/pink phaeton with the ohv 6 cylinder engine is? Thanks John

Thank goodness we won't have to squabble, because I just want the 8C 2900 Alfa.....

All, I can add to the excellent advice here is to hasten slowly and DON'T pull it apart, that has been death to so many old cars, as Unimogjohn says. My advice? Dont paint it. Neutralise the door rust, fix the floor, replace the rear bar with one that isnt rechromed so it looks consistent with the rest of the car. Clean it up, put some tyres on it and get it driving nicely. Then, stand back and think about where to next. At least this way, if you change your mind, you will have something to sell and you won't have over capitalised, much..... John

John, thanks for your continued efforts with your blog. I'm intrigued with the Taurus, she certainly isn't pretty, but mechanically very interesting, great respect for keeping her this long. What is the plan now? Would love an update on the W8. Thanks John

Hi, I've been following your thread since the beginning. That is a very pretty, very original car you have in excellent condition. My 53 Buick in Osage Cream was one of the colours you were contemplating for your car. This is your car and your choice but I cant understand why you would want to do a colour change. Its not as if its an ugly combination. The factory colour scheme on your car is very attractive and it matches the data plate. Not only that you're not even planning to use YOM or same make colours. I've been through this with my cars. These early 50s old girls are hard to find in any decent condition and aren't, and probably never will be, worth much. When you do decide to move it on, and despite what you think now, you will, whatever its worth it will be worth more in the original colours. In most circumstances, I wont buy a colour changed car. On the issue of two pack vs enamel. I've heard all of that stuff about originality too. Fact is, two pack is more durable and can be touched up easier. The original paint on your car was a nitrocellulose lacquer which is now unobtainable and didn't last anyway. Acrylic lacquer or enamel is not correct for the car so why go for second best when both are non original? Keep it as it left the factory, its a lovely colour combination and use two pack paint. You won't regret both decisions and it will also look after your pocket in the long term. My apologies, rant over! John

Maybe, or that your car was converted sometime later?

Very nice original car. Job No 31557 indicates a Standard Coupe so I would assume that means no rumble seat as 31572 is the five passenger Coupe, ie with a rumble seat. The Body number prefix is J, so assembled in Janesville Wisconsin, not California. Paint code is 72, which is Serge Blue fenders with black uppers with black wheels, Trim code 7 indicates cloth everywhere, but is not specific as to colour. Your car is more original than was indicated! John

Hi John, I too have been following your thread with great enjoyment since you purchased the Avanti. The variety of material in is great. Reading about your XK 120 has prompted me to put up a couple of pictures of my 1950 XK 120 OTS that I purchased recently. It is an early - No 195 - RHD Australian delivered car. I've wanted one of these for about 30 years. Its Pastel Blue with Duo Blue trim. Fully restored in the mid 90s and only travelled 320 miles since! I've spent the past 3 months slowly recommissioning it. Nearly there now except for replacing the unused flat spotted tyres. It lives with my Buicks, Alfas, Cadillac and Fiat. Some more and better photos are in my profile.Hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread.... Regards John

Great story on a wonderful car, Justin. I have an original 53 Super Hardtop which is a lovely old thing. Is the colour of yours Verde Green?, it looks like the roof colour of my car. I agree with the crossply tyre recommendation too. Mine is on them, my 48 Cadillac is on radials. The Caddy is a bear to steer at low speeds and all the roadshocks get transferred through the car, although it steers better than the Buick. I will stay with crossplys on my 53.

Chris, I've been enjoying this thread and your great enthusiasm since you started it. I've restored/refurbished a number of cars and I'm with Roger, I suggest you remove the front bumper, you'll regret it if you don't. Regards John

Rick, these are the correct Super/Roadmaster wheeltrims and wheel colour Regards John

A wise man once said to me (my brother), "one project at a time". I listened to him, however, its about the only sensible thing I've done with old cars! I agree with Trimacar - it looks like a nightmare, leave it alone and finish the Ponti.

I find there is a tipping point at 28 - 30 psi. More than this and they are very harsh on my 53 Riv. I don't think cross plys were designed to run at more than 28 - 30.

AFAIK it should be black

Glenn, as promised here are some photos of my 65,000 mile unrestored 53 Hardtop. As you can see fit and finish, ex factory was a bit hit and miss. I have also included pics of the expanding membrane on the upper door. I suspect most cars have lost this. I hope this helps. Regards

Glenn, I have a 53 Super Riv that has never been apart, you can see it in my profile. Send me a pm with your email address and I will send some high res photos. Regards