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Everything posted by joeinbcs

  1. Hi all, I'm trying to find some info, and maybe the owner of a Lincoln Model K LeBaron Sport Coupe that will be auctioned at Auburn in a few weeks. Here's the Hemmings listing: https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/auction/lincoln/k/2138895.html if anyone knows this car, or the owner, or both, please contact me. Thanks, Joe Northrop (979) 324-6432
  2. It will be for show. Yes, I'm a CLC member. i have a couple other Cadillac's, a '70 Eldorado Lucerne Aqua/white '72 Eldorado slick top white/oxblood, and a '76 Eldorado convertible, Briarwood Green Firemist/White. ill probably bring the '68 to San Antonio in '18!
  3. Thanks for the help! lynn was able to verify that the prize winning claim was legit!
  4. Hi, i bought a car today that is alleged to have won a National First Place Prize in 2000. is there any way to verify if this is true? thanks for any help! joe
  5. Here's the link: 1965 Buick Riviera 2-Door 401 CI, Automatic for sale by Mecum Auction Looks like a nice, decently optioned non-GS car. The announcers talked about how they expected dramatic increases in first-generation Riviera prices in the near future..."a car that is just beginning to come into its own" or some such BS. I hope they're right!
  6. Thanks for the tip. Some very useful information at the link you provided. I'm just East of you in College Station. If you happen to hear of someone who has a nice '61-'63 sedan, please let me know. Best, Joe
  7. Hi All, I'm interested in finding an original, very well-kept 1961-1963 Continental. Can anyone here tell me if this is the best forum for discussion of this car. I have a '65 Riviera, and have found great support from the guys on the Riviera Owners portion of the AACA website, and am wondering if I'll find similar interest here? Also, if anyone has one of these cars for sale, please contact me. I'm only interested in a car that is in very good shape, not a project, and it must have working factory air. Thanks, Joe
  8. I've had the same great experience with Clark's. I bought a custom interior kit for my '65, and the quality of the seat covers was first rate. And, as Ron noted, the customer service is a throwback to the days before automated answering machines and poor service that is the norm most places these days. They're friendly, efficient and utterly reliable.
  9. For anyone who may be interested... I took the car back to the guys who did the carb rebuild today. Unfortunately, I was not there to see exactly what was on the intake manifold when the car was originally disassembled. But, the guy who did it claims that the stainless steel baffle was cut exactly like the gasket. Because he couldn't get the gasket off, he used the new stainless baffle that I provided from Old Buick parts, which I learned today was not the same as the old one. It did not have a cutout like a smile in the front, matching the gasket. When we took the thing apart today it was quite apparent that the new baffle was missing the front cutout that seems to mirror the opposite (back side) of the carb. This was quite a puzzler, as it seemed that the carb or intake was on backwards. As there was simply no other way to put both pieces on, we drilled and cut the baffle to match the gasket and put it back together. I don't know yet if it will solve the smoking problem. I'd be interested if anybody else has had this issue come up. But, I now have a new, slightly more urgent issue. While coming home from the shop, the accelerator stuck open and it was a wild ride until I realized I could reach down and pull it our. Not sure what's causing this either. Any thoughts from you "been there, done that" fellas will be appreciated. Thanks, Joe
  10. Thanks, Ed. No, it was not smoking before. The guys who did the carb rebuild had the valley cover off to replace the gasket. I don't think there was anything wrong with it, but they recommended doing it as long as the intake manifold was off to replace the plug on the underside (which had deteriorated). Where exactly would I look for the "draft Tube"? Thanks, Joe
  11. Hey Ed, Thanks for the interest. I checked the vacuum lines, and the one on the top rear of the carb was off. After a little more investigation, I realized that the smoke was not caused by oil being forced out of the filler cap and dropping on the exhaust manifold. It seems that smoke is coming out of rocker covers, both at the oil filler cap and at the PVC valve if I remove it. Is this normal? Any idea what could be the cause? Thanks, Joe
  12. Yes, it is still functional and I replaced the PVC valve when the carb was rebuilt. Its attached to the valve cover on the passenger side of the car.
  13. Hi All, Thanks for all the help on various issues. I just had my carb rebuilt and the intake manifold plug replaced. Now my car is forcing oil out of the breather-style filler cap. My mechanic told me that the original cap should not have a breather. Several of the pictures I've seen of cars like mine do have the breather cap, and I'm just looking for some guidance...I know, pretty elementary, but, can somebody tell me if I have the right cap? If so, why is oil leaking out of it fouling my engine and causing it to smoke? Thanks again for all the great support, Joe
  14. I've followed this with interest, as I've wondered if my car was sitting at the appropriate level. Does anybody know where to measure for factory-spec ride height, and what the numbers should be? Thanks, Joe
  15. Thanks, fellas...it turned out to be the core plug on the underside of the manifold...had a large hole in it. I was having the carb rebuilt anyway, so glad to get to the bottom of this now. Joe
  16. Hi All, I'm looking for a horn button for my 65 (the button used on the wood wheel). Any advice on where to find one? Also, the bezels on my rear lights are somewhat pitted. Anybody know if re-chroming will solve this? Or do I need to find some NOS bezels? If I need new one's, anybody have a source? Thanks, Joe
  17. Hi All, I've been a away for much of the Summer, and my car has been with an upholstery guy. It had been producing black smoke on start up, but seems to have gotten dramatically worse, and now runs poorly. I took the air cleaner off and saw that the area beneath the intake manifold had a coat of sooty residue, and that sooty smoke escapes from somewhere under the manifold when I rev the engine. Any ideas what is causing this? I'm going to take it to my mechanic, but don't like to appear as clueless as I actually am when I discuss with him! Thanks, Joe By the way, its a 401, single 4 barrel
  18. Hi All, I'm usually on the Buick Forum (I have a '65 Riviera), but a friend who knows how much time I waste on cars/car parts is looking for a replacement interior driver's door handle for a 96 Seville that belongs to his grandparents. Apparently the handle is made of pot metal, and has broken. The dealer no longer stocks this item, and its probably too new for a specialist supplier. Any ideas on where I might direct him to find this door handle? Thanks, Joe
  19. Hey Keith, I recently ordered a CD with back issues of "The Riview" (I highly recommend this to anyone who has recently joined, as its packed with useful tips). I was going through it the other day and came across a suggestion to replace the dash light bulbs with higher intensity bulbs of the same type to solve the problem of dim dash lights. Ed Wong suggests in the article that the #161 speedometer and gas gauge/idiot light cluster bulbs (six total) can be replaced with bulb #194, which, at 2 candlepower, double the brightness. Heater/AC #1893 bulbs can be replaced with four #1816. The clock should have #1816, a three candle power bulb. Ed also suggests changing the panel light fuse from a 3 amp - 1 1/4 long to 5 amp 1 1/4 long. I think I'll try this before moving to LED's. Joe
  20. Hi All, Refinished the console wood with no drama to pretty good effect. First peeled off the flaky plastic coating, then cleaned the wood with Lacquer remover, then stained with fruitwood/light walnut. Finished with five coats of satin polyurethane, and it looks quite presentable. About to tackle the doors (I have the custom interior), and I've noticed that the finish is much tougher to remove. Anybody have a suggestion on a solvent that might work better than Lacquer thinner? Also, any advice on how to remove the stylized "R" without destroying it? Thanks, Joe
  21. Thanks for the tips on the paint, Ed. Problem with the brocade fabric is not identifying it. SMS has it and so does Clarks'. But...a combination of age and sun fading will, I think, make matching impossible. So, my thought process is...as long as I have to do the whole thing, I might as well do it in vinyl (or leather, if I could find it), which would be more to my taste. But, if I thought this deviation from original would have a dramatic effect on the value of the car, I might reconsider, and just buy a set of the "original" fabric/vinyl covers that Clarks' offers. I don't forsee selling the car, but still want to consider the impact of anything I do on its value.
  22. Hi All, I'm considering doing a few things to my car, but don't want to look back wishing I hadn't. So, I'm soliciting the collective wisdom of anybody who cares to comment. My car has 71K original miles, original paint and interior. The car is remarkably well preserved, and even the engine paint looks fresh, and the engine bay nearly new. So, here's my dilemma. The interior, which is fawn beaumonde brocade is perfect except for some irreparable tears on the driver seat. I've tried to match the fabric, but I don't think any source can provide a perfect match for a 45-year old car. So, I'm considering replacing the entire interior. I'm not crazy about the brocade, and am having Clark's make me a set of vinyl custom seat covers in Fawn....a color that was used on the sides and backs, and on the door cards of my car, but was not offered as an option that year. I have seen Fawn vinyl in earlier cars, and don't know why they did not offer it in '65. Nevertheless, I think it will suit my taste better than the brocade and have the appearance of a stock interior, even though its not. Anybody think I'm making a mistake by not sticking with the original? The other issue is the paint. From 20 feet the car looks great. Closer inspection reveals many chips and some very bad touch-up. Also, a close look ad the hood and trunk lid reveals some type of discoloration. So, I'm thinking of painting the car. Several guys in the local car club tell me I'm crazy to consider painting a car that is so presentable, so I'm thinking I might try getting it rubbed out or color sanded or something short of a re-spray. Anyway, I'm interested in your thoughts on the value of originality. Thanks, Joe
  23. Thanks Patrick. I was just out looking at my wood and realized that the scotch tape the PO had put over what I thought was peeling veneer is actually just peeling top coat. The wood beneath looks great once the peeling top coat is removed. I might be able to remove the plastic or varnish that was used and just put a new coat of something on once its cleaned up. Anybody know what was used as a topcoat, and what would be the best solvent to remove it. Also, for anybody who has done this, what would you use as a finish coat?
  24. Hi All, I want to replace the wood in my '65 Riviera with something close to the stock look. Some of the aftermarket kits are high-gloss, and not really to my taste. Anybody have any recommendations? Also, I want a wood steering wheel. Closest to what I want is a Grant "Classic Series 971", which is marketed as an OEM GM 16" x 4" wheel (pic attached). Only problem is that I can't find anyone at Grant or their suppliers who can tell me if this wheel is available in a light walnut finish. Anybody have any luck finding this type of wheel (doesn't have to be a Grant). Thanks, Joe
  25. Hi, I'm looking for a rear center armrest for my 65 Riviera. If you've got one, please send a pic and price. Thanks, Joe
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